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parkerize help

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing and Repairs' started by alex4922, Apr 6, 2013.

  1. alex4922

    alex4922 Well-Known Member

    I've been thinking about trying a Parkerizing job on some ugly duckling guns. Anyone have any experience? Pros-cons.

    Thanks A
  2. NCsmitty

    NCsmitty Well-Known Member

    It's a good method for coating or for preparing a surface for a more extensive epoxy coating. The key being a clean surface with no fingerprints to prevent a good adhesion to the metal. I use brake cleaner to clean with a good dry in the sun if possible to warm the surface, and I use the Duracoat Zinc phosphate at 3.5 to 1 mix, heated to 190 degrees. Plug your barrels with wood dowels with a good tight fit. I use a enameled bowl on my portable propane stove and pour the solution down the big parts and back into the bowl watching the thermometer to keep it close to the 190 mark. I do this for about 10 minutes and hang parts to dry and apply oil if not coating with epoxy finish next. It's easy to do, and rust proofs the parts. Small parts are just tossed into the bowl until they achieve the right color. The parkerizing alone will scrape off over time if you don't put some protective finish on it. I hope this helps.


  3. mtrmn

    mtrmn Well-Known Member

    I parkerized a couple old handguns a few years ago. I really like the results, very durable and rust-resistant. The finish is somewhat porous and soaks up oil like a sponge, which keeps rust at bay.

    I took the guns apart and degreased the parts repeatedly, then used a bead blasting cabinet at work to remove all old finish and rust etc. This left a rough finish with the appearance of brushed or matte stainless. I soaked the parts overnight in unused laquer thinner.

    Next day I got a large stainless pan and fired up my Coleman camp stove. Mixed the parkerizing solution with water according to the single-paragraph instructions. Used a meat thermometer to maintain 180 degrees and put the dry and thoroughly degreased parts in the solution for about 30 minutes.

    The really worn old S&W 36 came out looking like new, minus the shiny polish of a new Smith. I did not plug the barrel or cylinders. The gun is parkerized inside and out. Added a pair of Lasergrips and it went from being just an old gun laying in the back of the safe to a really good looking and often-used firearm you'd be proud to show off. Surprisingly accurate with the laser too.

    All the instructions I've seen have said to plug the barrel to keep from parkerizing the inside of the barrel but I've never figured out why. I would want the extra corrosion protection inside and out. I would think that if it shrunk chamber dimensions etc, I could just polish the chamber and be done with it. I can't imagine any other reason.
  4. mtrmn

    mtrmn Well-Known Member

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