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Pietta 1860 Army questions

Discussion in 'Blackpowder' started by bluegrassboy, Jan 22, 2011.

  1. bluegrassboy

    bluegrassboy Member

    Hello, I'm new here and this is my first post. I recently ordered a pietta 1860 Army from Cabelas. After the first round of shooting, the action had some grit in it (long story) so I stripped it down to clean it out. After reassembling, the cylinder spins alot more freely and there's less of a click when it spins. Did I do something wrong, or it this due to it being shot and loosening up? Secondly, Cabelas is sending me a replacement cylinder because mine has a bad nipple and they offered me a whole new cylinder. I can't get the wedge out to remove the barrel. Are there any tricks to getting it off easily? Thanks for any help.
  2. Tommygunn

    Tommygunn Well-Known Member

    Get a plastic tipped hammer for the wedge, that is what I did for mine.
    As for the "grittiness" ~~
    1.) Upon recept of gun they should be thoroughly cleaned and degreased, and when shot they should be lubed.
    2.) BP is dirty. There's just no getting around it, the residue goes everywhere. It gets into the action and also in the cylinder arbor and the face of the cylinder and gums things up. The Colt design is better able to handle this than the Remington but, yeah, it will get gritty. The solution is to have tools at the range and to disassemble and wipe down the arbor, cylinder and frame where all the action happens.

    As for your cleaning the grit out and having it spin more freely; yeah, that's what I'm talking about. You "done good."
    Enjoy your new revolver. Black Powder is addictive so beware!
  3. bluegrassboy

    bluegrassboy Member

    Ok, thanks for the info. I guess I'm a little paranoid of messing something up. Right out othe box, the cylinder had a very stiff click when the hammer was half cocked and the cylinder was spun, not unlike the wheel of fortune. Now, there's a very soft click and the cylinder spins like crazy. It still locks solid when cocked.
  4. junkman_01

    junkman_01 member

    Check to see if your hand spring has not cracked the next time you tear it down. Sure sounds like it to me!
  5. bluegrassboy

    bluegrassboy Member

    Ok, sure will. One last question and then I'll shut up. Is it normal for the cylinder to move forward and backwards very slightly?
  6. junkman_01

    junkman_01 member

    Yes it is normal. They are designed to do that to keep the cylinder turning as the fouling builds up.
  7. Shoot The Moon

    Shoot The Moon Well-Known Member

    +1 for checking the hand - it sounds too loose and as I understand it, the 'springiness' of the hand against the ratchet on the cylinder acts to slow the rotation of the cylinder a little, helping to stop over-rotation if the action is worked too quickly.

    Easy to sort out if it's not right - the joy of these is that they are mechanically simple!
  8. Foto Joe

    Foto Joe Well-Known Member

    I too am thinking that hand spring might have an issue. With the gun unloaded, point the muzzle straight up and pull the hammer back to full cock. While doing this keep just a light finger dragging on the cylinder.

    If your hand spring is gone, broke, etc., when you point the muzzle up, the hand will fall back into the frame and not contact the ratchets on the cylinder and the cylinder will not turn or will not turn completely. When the muzzle is horizontal, sometimes the hand will fall due to gravity into the correct place and rotate the cylinder normally.

    I had a Walker that did this to me and it drove me nuts until I pulled the guts and discovered that the hand spring had come out of its groove. The thing would cycle fine until I fired it and raised the barrel and rocked to the right to cock it.

    At any rate, it should be an easy fix.
  9. bluegrassboy

    bluegrassboy Member

    Ok, that sounds easy enough. Thanks a million for all the good info. Glad I found this place.
  10. BHP FAN

    BHP FAN Well-Known Member

    These guys are good.
  11. bluegrassboy

    bluegrassboy Member

    Ok, I pointed the muzzle upward and everything and the cylinder still rotated and everything as normal. I can't figure it out, but when half cocked it just don't sound right when the cylinder is rotated. Its like its too loose. Anybody know of where I can find detailed step by step directions on the disassemblu anreassembly of the hand and trigger group? Maybe I did something wrong when I disassembled it and cleaned it out.
  12. arcticap

    arcticap Well-Known Member

  13. bluegrassboy

    bluegrassboy Member

    Awesome, thanks
  14. BCRider

    BCRider Well-Known Member

    On the cylinder back and forth movement... how much is a "little bit"? If it moves much more than the thickness of a sheet of printer paper than that is more than it should move. Otherwise when it fires the cylinder kicks back and opens up the gap between the front face and the forcing cone by too much.
  15. bluegrassboy

    bluegrassboy Member

    Ok, I followed those directions a disassembled and reassembled the revolver and the hand spring looked a little worn. The cylinder still rotates freely with the soft click vs. the stiff click it once had, but the cylinder doesn't rotate backwards or anything and still locks securely in place when cocked. Gonna take it out and shoot it again soon.
  16. mykeal

    mykeal Well-Known Member

    I see no reason to shoot the poor gun, it didn't do you any harm...:uhoh:

    Oh, you meant use the gun to shoot with. I get it.

  17. bluegrassboy

    bluegrassboy Member

    Hahaha, yeah.
  18. DrLaw

    DrLaw Well-Known Member

    As somebody else here said, the first thing to do is clean the gun. You probably got something cleared out from between the hand and the spring and it is now working easier because of that, or in the hand slot, either way, no harm, no foul.

    The hand spring on most guns though, is the easiest to break, and it can be done without any real trying. Best, when reinserting, to have some lube on it.

    Also, when you shoot, expect about 12-18 shots before you have a hard time rotating the cylinder because of black powder residue fouling. Don't worry, you will see it. Looks like a thin layer of soot, which is basically, what it is. Warm water will take care of that, but dry off the gun before trying to reload again as water and black powder do not mix.

    Also, get something ahead of the bullet to lube the way, like Bore Butter or Crisco Shortening. It helps to soften the fouling and you might get 18-24 hots before really having to clean again. But that is the 'fun' of B-P. Also once the wedge has been moved a few times, it gets looser. No need to really whap it back in all the way until the barrel touches the cylinder, too. There is supposed to be a small gap between the two, as in a regular modern revolver. Finger pressure on the wedge will be enough to hold the barrel in place.

    The Doc is out now. :cool:

    PS, wait'll you start molding your own round balls. Then you will be hooked, lined and sinkered! :D

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