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Pistol grips

Discussion in 'Blackpowder' started by Crawdad1, Aug 8, 2013.

  1. Crawdad1

    Crawdad1 Well-Known Member

    Where is a good place to get a wide selection of custom pistol grips for my 1860 Army revolver? Don't know what kind of grips I want so I'm sort of shopping around. :confused:
  2. swathdiver

    swathdiver Well-Known Member

    The woods or your neighborhood on a weekend. Get some different Red Maple, Pine, Walnut, Cherry, etc., season the wood for a time and make your own. Ohh and Elk antlers make nice grips too!
  3. Crawdad1

    Crawdad1 Well-Known Member

    Good suggestion and I know I should just make my own. But there are way better craftsmen out there then me and I just want to take advantage of that.:)
  4. fdf

    fdf Well-Known Member

    Go to Bing and put in: custom pistol grips for my 1860 Army revolver

    Start with Cimarron and continue to look until you find your price range. Lots of options, searching is more fun than asking for others to search for you, you learn a lot more.
  5. Patocazador

    Patocazador Well-Known Member

  6. Crawdad1

    Crawdad1 Well-Known Member

    On my Colt's revolver grips I think I'll just refinish mine and just forget about the ivory (fake) grips. See how they look. Need a good source though for how to do it the right way. Maybe MidwayUSA on youtube will have something. Any suggestions?
  7. swathdiver

    swathdiver Well-Known Member

    First thing is to remove the finish. Get a finish remover and follow its instructions. The stocks will be wet after finish removal so allow them to then air dry. Now you can lightly sand them with 0000 steel wool (oil free) or with course sand paper/files if you wish to reshape them and use finer paper to smooth them out again.

    As for finishes, there are many kinds and I'll list two:

    Boiled Linseed Oil. Rub it on with clean cotton t-shirt and let dry for a day. Then sand with 0000 steel wool. Do this for as many days until the desired finish is achieved. I think this is same procedure for Tru-Oil Tung Oil.

    Beeswax finish. Heat enough natural beeswax until its melted to submerge your grips. Drop them in the beeswax for a few minutes and pull them out, quickly rubbing off the excess with a cotton t-shirt or towel. Buff with the steel wool again. The will now be waterproof and have a great feeling grip, not sticky or anything but they will grip much better than plain wood. The finish is pretty cool too, slightly darker than the wood and not shiny.
  8. Crawdad1

    Crawdad1 Well-Known Member

    Thanks swathdiver!!! Great information. Does it matter which finish remover? Do you recommend restaining them then apply the boiled linseed oil?
  9. 9mmfan

    9mmfan Well-Known Member

    I used Citristrip on mine. Did three of them. Worked well to get the "Uberti Red" down to bare wood. A shop towel and toothbrush to remove all the crud. Just don't use it to brush your teeth anymore.:p Used the steel wool to remove the last little bits that just softened and didn't lift off. It was just a few tiny bits.

    Just be sure to wear gloves. I Also put down a piece of cardboard to catch all the goo. Didn't want to leave any residue on my workbench.

    I cheated when it came to the finish. Using actual oil and/ or the beeswax method (I had not heard of that one, seems pretty nifty) is a more traditional route, but I was somewhat intimidated by the process (in particular, the whole improperly stored used rags can spontaneously combust bit). I hadn't really done any refinishing before. I am sure I will catch the ire of the more experienced/traditionalists, but for my 1860 Army I used Formby's Low Gloss Tung Oil Finish. Ended up with five or six coats, sanding with the steel wool as needed between coats. It ended up pretty nice, but was a little lighter than I originally would have liked. It is, however, growing on me.

    For the Model P and Thunderer, stripped the same way, then used some Minwax Dark Walnut Finish(they make a whole mess of colors). Wiped it on, let it sit for about ten minutes, then wiped off the excess. Gave it a day to dry and decided I didn't need to do a second coat. Here in a bit this afternoon, I'll probably hit these last two with some Johnson Paste Wax, as I am concerned that with only one coat, the finish might be a little thin.

    On the whole, it was fairly easy and I was pleased with the results. I like to tinker with things and it's always nice when a project turns out well.

    Good luck to you, whichever route you decide
  10. Crawdad1

    Crawdad1 Well-Known Member

    That's exactly what I'm trying to get rid of, that 'Uberti red'. I already have Miniwax dark walnut stain. All I need is the Citristrip and I'm ready to try it out,
    Thanks again,
    great info!!!
  11. 9mmfan

    9mmfan Well-Known Member

    Glad I could be of some assistance. I started a thread over in Gunsmithing, just to show how they turned out. They appear slightly darker in person.
  12. swathdiver

    swathdiver Well-Known Member

    9mmfan, those grips look great!

    The finish remover Crawdad1 isn't really that important. I used Citristrip the first time and lost the bottle during a move and used Formby's paint and poly remover thereafter. I think Citristrip was the better one.
  13. 9mmfan

    9mmfan Well-Known Member

    Thanks, swathdiver, appreciate it. As soon as I finish this post, I'm going to make a other cup of coffee and head out to the shop to buff the paste wax on the Thunderer. Then I will ascertain whether it actually did anything...

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