Polishing a 10/22 bolt

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TAP Plastics has 8 feet of quarter inch delrin rod for $3.95. Cutting it to the same length as the bolt stop pin is about a 30 second job.
See, my time is worth something too. 15 to 20 dollars, plus shipping and handling, accounts for more of my time_spent earning that money_than $3.95, shipping, and 30 seconds with a utility knife. Even if I throw the other seven feet+ of rod away, I'm still money ahead.
Of course, you could do something really goofy like make the rest of the rod available to your 10/22 owning friends, but I guess that's just crazy talk.
 
Your RT buffer page doesn't actually specify what material it is.
Does the owner, or I, have any reason to tell you what the material is made out of?
You may not care, but the poly that is pulled off a roll cannot compare in quality to what Kidd, VQ or R/T uses. The typical poly buffer is springy, can have different elasticities, and can (and has) caused it to work the bolt incorrectly, however rarely.
The typical poly buffer also has another downfall, they cannot be used in the 10/22 magnum, the 10/ 17HMR conversions, or the 10/17 HM2 conversions. Those three can. While the factory steel buffers OFTEN cracked the receivers on the 10/22M and the poly buffers are not stiff enough to offer any support for any of the three.


Back to the topic, buff the snot out of the bolt. I used a 600 grit diamond knife sharpener on mine, hit all the sides, after I stripped it of all it's parts, and it is much smoother now, and square.
Another thing to do is to remove the bolt handle from the rod and put a serious polish on the guide rod.
 
Joe:

plus $8.37 shipping = $12.32 for the rod, then I have to cut it and handle it.

Or, I spent $15, got three pins by mail, and drop them right in.

Hmmm...

I have a garage full of materials I bought a sheet/rod/bar of and don't need again.

But by all means buy one and cut it up. Next time I need one, what will you sell me one for?

Dookie: Thanks for the advice. I went ahead and polished my old well-worn bolt, too. It works even slicker now.

How do you dismount the charging handle? It looks as if the end of the rod is upset and flared.
 
Madmike,
Last time I did it, I gave away the remaining rod to THR members for free. All I asked was $1 to cover the price of envelopes and postage. I sent each person enough rod to make about 3 buffers. Here's the thread. You and Dookie can continue to assume I don't know what I'm talking about, or you can contact some of the people from that thread and see whether it worked for them too. I don't know whether I'll ever do it again, but that's because thousands of rounds haven't worn out the first one I installed and I kept enough rod to make two more.

Does the owner, or I, have any reason to tell you what the material is made out of?
Do you have any reason, other than wanting to disagree with me, to assume it isn't just delrin?
 
How do you dismount the charging handle? It looks as if the end of the rod is upset and flared.

a file... as far as I know removing the "ears/flared part" of the guide rod is the only way. I know none of the three i've owned had any slots etc in the bolt handle to allow it to be removed without doing so. granted on teh oldest one the handle never was captive.

from what i can gather the flared section is there as a convenience, not everyone wants to deal with having to put the handle back on the guide/spring assembly each time they take the action apart.

Plus if you make it so that replacing a worn out recoil spring requires making the spring/guide/handle no longer a single assembly, you can sell new assemblies ;)
 
a file... as far as I know removing the "ears/flared part" of the guide rod is the only way. I know none of the three i've owned had any slots etc in the bolt handle to allow it to be removed without doing so. granted on teh oldest one the handle never was captive
Only difference is that I use a dremel with a sanding bit. I have a stack of metal polishing bits that work real nice for smoothing metal out. A dremel with a buffing tool and polishing compound works real nice, but can get messy.

To keep the spring and follower from flying off I use a small vice grip with a rag and lightly clamp the bolt handle back, when I get the "ears" removed I SLOWLY release the pressure, a grocery bag works well if you accidentally lose control and send the spring into nowhere land.
 
I peen the dog (ears) at the end of the rod until it allows the handle to pass. I use a vice grip to grab it with the aid of some rubber inner tube to protect the rod. Then just give a a good smack ..or two ...or three on a hard surface like a vice. It's not necessary to re-peen the rod after handle replacement but I do.
While the handle is off the rod I polish the BJsus out of it it with Flitz.
I've successfully converted several of my 1022's this way replacing the stocker with a 1022 magnum handles. It is a great improvement!

charginghandle.jpg
 
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