tylerthehans
Member
- Joined
- Jan 11, 2008
- Messages
- 2
I was going to buy a PTR 91 and had a couple questions about the gun what are the accuracy? Picky on ammo?
Ptr 91
- Thread starter tylerthehans
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Floppy_D
Member In Memoriam
Accuracy was about a 2.5" group at 100yds if I did my part. Maybe 3 or 4" with wolf. This was before I reloaded my own. No ammo pickiness that I'm aware of.
Z-Michigan
Member
There are many threads here to search.
My PTR runs great.
Ammo preference will be 150gr or lighter loads.
It throws brass an incredible distance, and damages it too. Not reloading friendly.
My PTR runs great.
Ammo preference will be 150gr or lighter loads.
It throws brass an incredible distance, and damages it too. Not reloading friendly.
paratroop23
Member
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2008
- Messages
- 115
I love mine!! Hope you're not recoil sensitive!
But to answer your question about ammo sensitivity, the only ammo that has given my JLD PTR 91KPF a problem is the Lithuanian GGG. For some reason my rifle just doesn't fire it accurately. She likes everything else!
But to answer your question about ammo sensitivity, the only ammo that has given my JLD PTR 91KPF a problem is the Lithuanian GGG. For some reason my rifle just doesn't fire it accurately. She likes everything else!
Z-Michigan
Member
It's funny, there are two polar opposite camps on the recoil of the PTR91. I find it to be very light recoil for a .308. I could shoot it all day long. And I'm not the only person with that view. Yet many others find it to be hard recoiling. I'm puzzled. It's as if they built it in two different recoil versions.
iheartboost
Member
mine is definetly heavy on the recoil, kicks harder than my mosins. It seems pretty accurate though and has gobbled up everything I've fed it
W.E.G.
Member
Bolt-gap is a huge issue with delayed blow-back rifles such as the PTR-91, or the HK-91, or CETME.
The less bolt-gap, the more it kicks you.
Preferred gap is in the high teens (thousandths).
Go under 10 for your gap and recoil will get more of your attention.
I think the PTR is a very good value at current prices.
Check the serial number.
If it starts with a letter "B" it was built somewhere other than "at the factory."
"A" receivers are "factory-built."
Might want to check the pedigree on those "B" receivers.
The less bolt-gap, the more it kicks you.
Preferred gap is in the high teens (thousandths).
Go under 10 for your gap and recoil will get more of your attention.
I think the PTR is a very good value at current prices.
Check the serial number.
If it starts with a letter "B" it was built somewhere other than "at the factory."
"A" receivers are "factory-built."
Might want to check the pedigree on those "B" receivers.
stubbicatt
Member
My PTR with the 4x Henshold Fero-Z scope will hold just at 1 MOA. It is one of the JLD versions. Extremely accurate, robust, and pleasant to shoot. Although I don't think I could do it again if I had to, when I shot prairie dogs with it a couple of years ago, I hit one on the run at 400 meters. First shot fell behind him, the second popped him.
If reloading your brass is in your future, go to Robert RTG Parts dot com and buy a POF port buffer. Get two while you are at it, as they are a feast or famine sort of part.
I am fortunate these days to have a few rifles which I really prize, but the PTR will be the last one I sell if it ever comes to that.
If reloading your brass is in your future, go to Robert RTG Parts dot com and buy a POF port buffer. Get two while you are at it, as they are a feast or famine sort of part.
I am fortunate these days to have a few rifles which I really prize, but the PTR will be the last one I sell if it ever comes to that.
Mine doesn't like South African surplus.
It functions well with everything else I have put through it.
The recoil is heavier than a comparable gas gun such as the FAL or M14 type rifles but I found an easy fix for this.
Buy a small size Kick-Eze slip on recoil pad and install it.
It reduces felt recoil to the point the rifle is more comfortable to shoot than my M1A rifles, it really works and as a plus it adds about an inch and a quarter of length to the stock, important if you have long arms.
If I ever get my Brugger and Thome scope plate, I intend to mount an IOR Valdada scope to my rifle.
It functions well with everything else I have put through it.
The recoil is heavier than a comparable gas gun such as the FAL or M14 type rifles but I found an easy fix for this.
Buy a small size Kick-Eze slip on recoil pad and install it.
It reduces felt recoil to the point the rifle is more comfortable to shoot than my M1A rifles, it really works and as a plus it adds about an inch and a quarter of length to the stock, important if you have long arms.
If I ever get my Brugger and Thome scope plate, I intend to mount an IOR Valdada scope to my rifle.
inherentical
Member
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2007
- Messages
- 753
So, basically what you have is a .308 that kicks like a mule while not recoiling very hard at all, shoots between 1 and 5 MOA, is easy and hard to clean, and will and won't shoot a variety of ammunition
Just don't get one of the collapsible stocks.
Just don't get one of the collapsible stocks.
Z-Michigan
Member
Exactly!
IMHO, cleaning is not a good part of PTR ownership. Reassembly of the bolt is not fun, and the blowback system creates carbon fouling approaching AR levels, much worse than piston-driven gas operation levels.
IMHO, cleaning is not a good part of PTR ownership. Reassembly of the bolt is not fun, and the blowback system creates carbon fouling approaching AR levels, much worse than piston-driven gas operation levels.
Ravenslair
Member
- Joined
- May 9, 2005
- Messages
- 65
They are great rifles. You will not go wrong with one. Mine eats anything I feed it and does not kick like a mule (with a bolt gap of .019).
stubbicatt
Member
Cleaning the PTR is easier than any other rifle I own, other than bolt guns. You just need to get the two brush set from E&L, the little cleaning rod, and the chamber flute brush, and the bore guides sold by Convert over at the HKpro dot com.
First remove the buttstock and FCG. Wipe down the hammer in the FCG. Then take a properly sized piece of T-shirt material, wrap it around the square profile brush from E&L. Squirt Mpro7 on it, and run it up and down the receiver and the magazine well. Be sure to run it into the trunnion. It will be all nasty and black. Repeat one time. Then using the funnel shaped brush and a 12 ga patch with Mpro7 on it, hit the breech face.
Use the fluting brush dry a few strokes in the chamber, insert the bore guide and clean the barrel as you would any other.
Remove the bolt from the carrier by gently twisting in a counter clock wise motion. Wipe it down with a shop towel, and use the GI toothbrush where needed. Wipe down with a clean patch with CLP or whatever lube you like, and reassemble. Voila!
I can clean that thing in about 20 minutes, 15 if I hustle and don't let the bore cleaner soak.
The key is to have the right tools!
Recoil is not bad for a 308. It seems to me from a prone position that the recoil in my rifle is a little bit more than a AR 15, and less objectionable than a AK47. One of the other contributors points to bolt gap, and that is critical. Mine is about .017" or so and it is sweet as can be. Kicks less than a FAL I shot at the range, and certainly less than the M1A I made expert with.
Not everybody likes the same thing, but this will be the last rifle I sell.
---Oh! Don't forget the 22 long rifle conversion kits that make everybody smile, and are a great way to introduce kids to the joys of shooting.
First remove the buttstock and FCG. Wipe down the hammer in the FCG. Then take a properly sized piece of T-shirt material, wrap it around the square profile brush from E&L. Squirt Mpro7 on it, and run it up and down the receiver and the magazine well. Be sure to run it into the trunnion. It will be all nasty and black. Repeat one time. Then using the funnel shaped brush and a 12 ga patch with Mpro7 on it, hit the breech face.
Use the fluting brush dry a few strokes in the chamber, insert the bore guide and clean the barrel as you would any other.
Remove the bolt from the carrier by gently twisting in a counter clock wise motion. Wipe it down with a shop towel, and use the GI toothbrush where needed. Wipe down with a clean patch with CLP or whatever lube you like, and reassemble. Voila!
I can clean that thing in about 20 minutes, 15 if I hustle and don't let the bore cleaner soak.
The key is to have the right tools!
Recoil is not bad for a 308. It seems to me from a prone position that the recoil in my rifle is a little bit more than a AR 15, and less objectionable than a AK47. One of the other contributors points to bolt gap, and that is critical. Mine is about .017" or so and it is sweet as can be. Kicks less than a FAL I shot at the range, and certainly less than the M1A I made expert with.
Not everybody likes the same thing, but this will be the last rifle I sell.
---Oh! Don't forget the 22 long rifle conversion kits that make everybody smile, and are a great way to introduce kids to the joys of shooting.
Destructo6
Member
Venezuelan CAVIM is about the only ammo I know about that Hks (PTRs) don't like. It is reputed to choke the chamber flutes with a tar-like substance in about 100 rounds.
W.E.G.
Member
Not true.
There is one simple way that allows you to disassemble the bolt and carrier.
Perro to the rescue.
References to "CETME" are same for HK91 and PTR91
http://www.militaryfirearm.com/Forum/Tanker/bolt1.ram
There are other ways which require the patience of Job and the strength of Hercules.
I fall in neither category, so I learned how to do it right.
Z-Michigan
Member
It's a polymer trigger housing, with standard metal trigger parts inside it. It's used on later version military and police HK weapons and should hold up just fine. It's also about a $10 part to replace if it ever breaks, and you can buy spares with no special license or hassle.
As far as cleaning and reassembly - I appreciate all the tips and acknowledge that I have quite a bit to learn on this. At the same time, I will say that the cleaning is more work, due to more carbon fouling in more places, than an AK or some other gas piston designs, and the reassembly is more work, IMHO, than either an AR or AK. That doesn't mean it isn't do-able, just that it gets no prize.
I am not anti-PTR - in case it's not clear, I own one. They are quality rifles for much less money than comparable quality FAL's and M1A's. But they do have some significant quirks. I also don't like the sight mounting system OR the stock iron sights, for what it's worth. But that's getting into personal preferences and not hard facts.
As far as cleaning and reassembly - I appreciate all the tips and acknowledge that I have quite a bit to learn on this. At the same time, I will say that the cleaning is more work, due to more carbon fouling in more places, than an AK or some other gas piston designs, and the reassembly is more work, IMHO, than either an AR or AK. That doesn't mean it isn't do-able, just that it gets no prize.
I am not anti-PTR - in case it's not clear, I own one. They are quality rifles for much less money than comparable quality FAL's and M1A's. But they do have some significant quirks. I also don't like the sight mounting system OR the stock iron sights, for what it's worth. But that's getting into personal preferences and not hard facts.
paratroop23
Member
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2008
- Messages
- 115
Now let me add this! I have the collapsable stock, 16 inch bbl carbine version! That's probably why mine kicks so! I've gotten use to it though, and it doesn't stop me! The only reason why I don't spend more time firing it is the cost of the ammo!
On another note....I was so impressed by the JLD PTR91 that I was about to purchase another one, but decided on a Loaded M1A instead.
If you decide to purchase one, get it from CDNN. They seem to have the best prices. Also avoid the plastic hand guard, get the hard anodized aluminum version. The plastic version sucks!
On another note....I was so impressed by the JLD PTR91 that I was about to purchase another one, but decided on a Loaded M1A instead.
If you decide to purchase one, get it from CDNN. They seem to have the best prices. Also avoid the plastic hand guard, get the hard anodized aluminum version. The plastic version sucks!
Floppy_D
Member In Memoriam
To be fair to the rifle, I never really used premium ammo; Wolf, SA battle packs, and whatever was cheap. That collapsible stock that looks like a meat tenderizer is good for tenderizing your shoulder. Tons of fun to shoot.
W.E.G.
Member
Thanks...uhhh... Sarah?
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