Question About Laser Bore Sighters

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starkadder

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I have been looking for a good all around bore sighter, it gets old running to the local Acadamy or the other gun shops to bore sight a new scope. I've looked at several different makes and models of the "stick type" with bore bushings and they all look about the same, does any one have experience with these units. I like the fact that they will work with virtually any caliber up to 12ga, I just wonder how precise they really are, anyone have experience with these?

Thanks in advance.


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For most of my life I have always pulled the bolt out and have looked through the bore at a small object at 25-50 yards and adjust the reticle accordingly. I know this wont work with some actions such as pumps, autos etc but it works for bolts and will usually get you on paper at 100. I have several times done that with amazing accuracy.

Fast forward to the present. A couple of years ago I bought a Cabela's laser bore sighter on a whim because they were on sale for $25 and I was curious too. This thing works pretty darn good, you just have to get a good snug fit in the bore to get it centered up. Will a laser bore sighter put you in the bullseye? Most likely not but it is a simple way of getting you on 100 paper.The laser isnt like a bullet, it travels in a straight line not in an arch but it will get you close. I normally adjust the reticle to the laser at 50yds as it's fairly easy to see. At dusk or early moring you can see the laser at 100yds through a scope. Have used mine on 204 Ruger through a 50 BMG and everything in between. I have found it useful even with handguns, especially getting lasers quickly set up. They also can be used with iron sights and red dots. On costly rounds and heavy kickers it will save you and for the money spent I think they are great.

After bore sighting I will take a shot at the desired distance, say 100 yards, then I will look at the the POI and then aim/adjust the rifle back at the intended bullseye and without moving the firearm, adjust the windage and elavation so the the reticle is centered over the bullet hole. When done properly the firearm is pretty much sighted in, though tweaking may be nescessary. When done properly it take 2 or 3 shots.


Sorry for the bad pic
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I've got one, it does a good job of getting the first shot on paper. Mine was on clearance at wal-mart for about $5 several years ago, and the logo is worn out, so I don't know what brand it is, but they are all probably made at the same factory with different logos.
 
I have one and the software that I got from the net specific to it. It works if you follow the directions.

The big question is "is there some reason to avoid firing the rifle?"

For most of my life sight-in was done with a large piece of poster board, a small orange target dot and a long tape measure. If you apply all the proper marksmanship skills, a scope can be zero-ed in 12 rounds: three at 25 yards to find the point of impact, 3 at 50 yards to insure that the dials are being moved in the right direction, 3 at the final target distance (100 to 200 yards) to make the final correction and 3 to verify zero.

Free software on the web can be employed to compute a drop able if you have some idea of muzzle velocity.

The whole process takes about 45 minutes and costs a box of shells and 5-8 bucks for the poster board and a small pack of 1 inch target spots. My son just did it for his first rifle (270 Winchester). He fired 4 or 5 more 'proof' rounds at a 6 inch steel gong at 220 yards and a soft drink can at the same distance-100% hits.

Unless there is more to your situation than stated, why make it more complicated with an expensive gadget?
 
I have the bushnell model with various arbors and I wasn't really impressed with it, didn't get me any closer than eyeing the bore (if you can). I wish I would have given one of these a try instead:

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=744374

These would eliminate the possibility of firing a round with a bore-sighter still lodged at the muzzle and, because the laser has to travel down the entire length of the bore, you can be confident that your initial windage setting should be close enough to be on paper.
 
The couple of them I've tried don't work on something like an M1A that has a long flash hider as they don't really reach the muzzle
 
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