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Question about open-bottom bedding

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing and Repairs' started by ImperatorGray, May 24, 2014.

  1. ImperatorGray

    ImperatorGray Well-Known Member

    Planning to glass bed my Mini 30 soon. Here she is:


    Having never bedded a rifle before, I've found this wonderful little video really helpful as I've planned it out: http://greatwestgunsmithing.com/minibedding09 low (2).html

    The one question it leaves me with is this: Is there a reason to leave so much bedding excess compound inside to file down at the end? My impulse would be to clean a good portion of it up before it fully set.

    I have two theories (that he's leaving it there until fully cured to max out the time the epoxy on the receiver and the stock can come together, or that wiping some off from inside could get it where it's not supposed to be and thus glue the action in), but I'd love to hear from people with experience. Does the excess really need to be left until hard, or can I let my impulse run wild?
  2. ImperatorGray

    ImperatorGray Well-Known Member

    I should clarify what I'm talking about, rather than making it sound like I expect you to watch a half-hour-plus video just to help me: When the gunsmith puts the receiver into the prepped stock, there is naturally runoff. Runoff that makes it to the outside he cleans up with cotton swabs, but the stuff inside the stock (magwell area) he leaves to cure. It's a gel compound, so it stays in place. Then, when it's cured, he breaks the action out and removes the hardened excess with a mill file.
  3. chris allen

    chris allen Well-Known Member

    It is better to have a little too much than too little and have voids . With practise one learns about how much too use with out wasting a lot of epoxy and minimal clean up .Definitely an experience thing . I personally let the excess get a little rubbery and then break it out before it hardens .

    It does clean up easily with a file and or dremel tool .
  4. LAGS

    LAGS Well-Known Member

    If you use Modeling Clay or Floral Clay ,that doesnt harden, you can build Dams where you want to stop the epoxy from running.
    I fill the whole magazine well on bolt actions with clay when I bed just the recoil lugs and such.
    Very little trimming needed when I am cured.
    The dams also provide a back stop so what you are bedding is actually putting pressure on the epoxy and not letting it rin down and causing Voids or gaps.
    But If I were you, you might want to try bedding something simpler than a rifle like you have .
    Do an old 22 or something else first.
    Learn to Walk before you start Running.
    Learn how the material is to work with, and not take a chance on screwing up your nice rifle or at worst case, Gluing the barrel and action to the stock.
    There are lots of things that can go wrong.
    Trust me on this one, as When I started bedding, we didn't have 15 minute ,Anybody can do it Youtube Videos that make it sound SO Simple.
    And those Vid's are full of left out information.

    If you pull the gun apart when things are still a little rubbery or not fully cured, then you just screwed up your bedding job.
    I put up a sign when I an bedding that says D.D.W.I to remind myself, and my friends.
    " Dont Dink With It " . let it fully cure.
    Last edited: May 31, 2014
  5. chris allen

    chris allen Well-Known Member

    When is speak of breaking the epoxy off when it is rubber I dont mean to pull the action from the stock .I mean to break the EXCESS epoxy off while it is still rubbery .It will break off nicely at the joint of the wood and the metal .
  6. LAGS

    LAGS Well-Known Member

    @ Chris allen
    I did understand you, and knew you were talking about what I call the Spooge. And you are right to trim it off when pliable.
    But I had to caution a new person to bedding, as not to be impatient, and pull the rifle apart too soon.
    Untill the bedding compound is fully cured, it can still change shape, and be pulled up as the action is being removed.
    It may look hard or cured, but give it plenty of extra time like at least overnight.
    And do not try to force cure it with a heat gun or hair dryer.
    In bedding, Time is your best friend if you do things right.
  7. carbine85

    carbine85 Well-Known Member

    I glass bedded a old Mini 14 5-6 years back. It was fairly simple. I used a dremel tool to cut out the wood, a lot of tape and release agent. I had to use a wooden dowel and hammer to separate the rifle from the stock the first few time. It worked out well. I used Browell's glass bedding.

    Here's an old thread from when I did it: http://www.perfectunion.com/vb/ruge...-glass-bedding-free-floating-pics-inside.html
  8. ImperatorGray

    ImperatorGray Well-Known Member

    Thanks for the help everybody. Rifle is done, and everything worked out great. :)

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