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Rebarrel mauser or get a Savage 10FP?

Discussion in 'Rifle Country' started by distincthead, Jun 10, 2008.

  1. distincthead

    distincthead Member

    Hi guys,

    I've got an old swedish mauser that some idiot chopped the barrel down, so in other words a great rifle sans usable barrel. I picked it up the other day in the hopes that I could do something with it, but now I'm having second thoughts. I would like a rifle that I could use for long range precision shooting (think 500 - 1000 yds). Not something amazing, just something that's good to learn long range with, yet not crappy enough that I'll outgrow it in a year or so. Here are my options/questions:

    1) Return the Mauser, get my petty amount of $$ back, and buy a savage 10fp/tikka t3/rem700 (I want something with a heavy barrel). Spend the money I'd save on good optics, work up some handloads and enjoy.

    2) Rebarrel the mauser with a decent quality barrel, while at the same time getting the action trued, and doing some modifications at home as well. The problem I see is that in order to get what I want, I might end up spending twice as much as something like a Savage, and end up with the equivalent in accuracy, albeit a much more beautiful rifle. Perhaps I'm just doubting this old beast though. Will a decent barrel (I'm thinking Douglas or Lothar Walther) outperform the savage out of the box?

    Thanks for any advice I might get, I'm one of those indecisive types... :banghead:
  2. skinewmexico

    skinewmexico Well-Known Member

    Buy the Savage. You'll never be able to load ammo to modern pressures (safely) in an old action. And being able to turn up the heat is pretty important when you're shooting 500-1000 yards. And if you need a barrel on the Savage, or want to change caliber, you can do it yourself, in your own garage, in 30 minutes.
  3. distincthead

    distincthead Member

    So I'm thinking Savage, then when I get around to it a new Shilen Supermatch in 6.5x55 (i'm very partial to that cartridge). Anyone have any experience with that combo?
  4. rangerruck

    rangerruck Well-Known Member

    is that mauser marked with markings? how old is it? if it was a czech vz 24 mauser, it would be top drawer, and I would use that for an action , anyday over anything else. If it truly is a swedish made mauser what is the date? Someone here much better than I , can tell you usually by date, if it is a rock solid action to start with. Then if you do decide to keep it, I would go with something like, Oh I don't know, maybe 243, or a 6mm, or a Grendel, or a 260 remmy. I really like the idea of a Grendel round, in a nice long bbl bolt action.
  5. rangerruck

    rangerruck Well-Known Member

    generally speaking, a cut rifled bbl, it those makers use those techniques, will be more accurate than a button rifled bbl, any day.
    I had a bit of a custom job, it was a mauser done up in 308, in a Parker hale suite. Ungodly accurate, even with milsurp.
  6. GarandOwner

    GarandOwner Well-Known Member

    It might be cheaper to rebarrel the rifle than buy a new one, even if you get a heavy barrel put on the mauser
  7. Ash

    Ash Well-Known Member

    It's a Swedish Mauser. These are nice rifles, but they are not 98's. The 6.5 Swede has a slightly larger case head than other calibers, though I don't know how that affects rechambering.

    I'm not sure you'll be satisfied with the Swedish Mauser for long-range target work, but then, it is a fine action. You'd probably need to change the trigger out for more precise shooting. In the end, iit would probably cost considerably more to buy a quality barrel, have it mounted (how easy are barrels to get for Swedish Mausers?), then have the action prepped for a scope mount and upgrading the trigger, than it would cost to simply buy the Savage.

  8. distincthead

    distincthead Member

    Thanks for all the replies. To the fellow who asked what the markings were, it's a Carl Gustafs, looks like a Model 1896, made in 1916, serial # 787 (they all match except the firing pin).

    I've been doing quite a bit of research on Mauser boards, and it appears that just the barrel will cost me between 250 and 350, then there's the labor charges to get it put on. Then I have to drill & tap for optics, mess with the trigger, and get a different stock as the one I have on this thing is way too short for me, and if I'm going to get a new barrel I might as well bed the darn thing. Anyhow, I'm leaning towards a modern rifle. If I had money just sitting about, I'd do the mauser option just for the challenge.

    Attached Files:

  9. skinewmexico

    skinewmexico Well-Known Member

    I put a 6.5X55 barrel on a Savage hunting rifle, it was an easy swap. I put a used Shilen Supermatch in 6.5X47 Lapua on another Savage, and it's shooting really, really well. Hopefully when I get done with load development, I'll be able to reduce those .3" groups.
  10. redneckdan

    redneckdan Well-Known Member

    I trued and rebarreled my vz-24. I will still get a savage someday.
  11. brooks

    brooks Well-Known Member

    Sporterizing an old Mauser--I did the math and it doesn't make much sense. New stock+drill and tap for scope+safety mod+bolt turn down, glass bed and that's not counting a new barrel.

    If you love the Swede, you can get a CZ 550 American (Mauser action) or a Tikka T3 for about $650 and have great re-sale value too. I just bought a CZ .308 Varmint H-barrel but they don't come in 6.5x55.

    In a Savage, you need the long action for a Swede and short action for a .264-- 260 Remington. The Savage guys can do a barrel switch and head space with an barrel nut wrench and a vise.

    Check out www.savageshooters.com

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