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Rust prevention

Discussion in 'Handloading and Reloading' started by boing, May 3, 2003.

  1. boing

    boing Well-Known Member

    Any secret to preventing rust on a 550B? Particularly the powder sensitive locations like the powder bar and funnel.

    Anyplace I touch metal develops rust in short order unless I give a wipe-down with CLP or RIG. I haven't started reloading yet (still piecing together the gear as funds allow) but when I start I don't want to be using oil and grease where it might contaminate the components, and what's on there now should probably be cleaned off, too.

    My reloading room has little or no climate control, but it's probably drier than the basements and garages some of you guys reload in. Tips, tricks, and hints?

  2. warrior23

    warrior23 Well-Known Member

    I actually wear surgical gloves when i reload,you can get a box of the disposable ones,if not try washing your hands throughly before,your fingers contain oils and salts so when you touch metal your depositing it on there.
  3. John Galt

    John Galt Well-Known Member

    The article written on rust preventers comes to the conclusion that the only two products that work are CLP and Miltec(?). I use CLP. So does everyone else.

    You only need a tiny bit. You wipe on, then wipe off. This should not contaminate.
  4. Steve Smith

    Steve Smith Moderator Emeritus


    Do not use oil.

    As you know I'm a match shooter. A great deal of match guys use the Dillon 550b including me. I live in arid CO so mine doesn't rust, but many in other areas do. Their trick is to coat the funnel et al with a light coat of wax. Re-do about every 1000-200 rounds or as required.

    If you are loading for .223 you have reamed out your funnel, right?
  5. MoNsTeR

    MoNsTeR Well-Known Member

    I've heard good things about Outers Metal Seal. I believe it dries to a protective film, so it wouldn't contaminate.
  6. braindead0

    braindead0 Well-Known Member

    Many museums use neutral shoe polish on metal items (at least on swords, armor and the like). ie, wax.. Perhaps even a carnuba would work nicely as well.
  7. boing

    boing Well-Known Member

    OK, wax. What kind/brand of wax? Johnson's paste wax? In what form is carnuba wax marketed?
  8. Steve Smith

    Steve Smith Moderator Emeritus

    Car wax is fine. Put it on and polish it after it dries.
  9. sm

    sm member

    I've used the "Mother's" brand with carnuba.

    I have used Johnson's and Minwax...the later cautions against using on rubber and asphalt tile ( in case someone has set up mounted upon rubber). These worked ok...I think the caruba wax worked best...easier to buff off and felt slicker.

    Mec reloaders: I've used RIG for the spring and the centerpost --areas where power/shot does not go...easier to use around these areas...very, very light coat is all it takes.
  10. boing

    boing Well-Known Member

    Great. Thanks guys.
  11. Fatelvis

    Fatelvis Well-Known Member

    Steve, what does reaming out the funnel for .223 do? And how do you do it? Thanks-
  12. boing

    boing Well-Known Member

  13. eddieleon

    eddieleon Active Member

    Johnsons paste floor wax is the one I've used some 50 years on all metal and wood including loading presses barreled receivers and stocks. Has always worked for me.

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