S&W 642 developed rust

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mquaack

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I've had my 642 for about 1 year now. I wear it all the time in my leather holster on my hip or on my ankel. I have always keep it either in my holsters or safe. About every month I would wipe it down, clean it, and finish it off with oil.

Well after looking at it a couple of days ago I noticed that the yoke had 2 spots of rust on it. I rubbed a little of it out but it is still there. It bothers me because I wipe it down everywhere with oil all the time.

Anyway, called S&W and they sent me a pre-paid UPS label. Shipping it back next day air tomorrow.

Thought I would rant. :cuss:
 
Better to not store it in the holster and keep holsters out of the safe. The holster will retain some moisture/sweat and increase your chances to have rust form.
It's a good practice to let the holster air out when you are not wearing them. Put it on an open shelf overnight.
 
I am looking at my M638 Bodyguard. The barrel, cylinder and yoke are stainless steel. The frame is aluminum.

It is apparently from reading your post that you have unrealistic expectations about the corrosion resistance of stainless steel. Stainless steel will corrode. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stainless_steel. So will aluminum. Leather is saturated in chemicals that are so nasty that the stuff kills most molds and fungi. Those chemicals also kill the workers in leather tanneries. Lots of cancer deaths in retired workers. I have no doubt that some of those chemicals helped cause localized corrosion on your revolver.

Also, whether you know it or not, people sweat salty compounds. I have met people who corrode metal watch bands. Maybe you should get a plastic holster.

I think S&W is going the extra mile in customer service for you.
 
With respect to stainless steels rust resistance, I've had a couple three rust experiences with stainless steel!

As a kid, working on one of my dads rent houses, retrieved a stainless steel butter knife from a sink drain trap. Knife was quite pitted from rust, but really didn't show any red staining.

Didn't properly clean my "stainless steel" Pietta 1858 Remington clone after shooting. Went to properly clean the revolver a couple weeks later, and it had developed a few isolated spots of red rust! Had to clean it with Flitz cleaner/polisher to remove the stains. Did leave some minor pitting.

Last summer I went fishing with my son at a nearby lake. Found a big folding Buck 110 knife and sheath in the mud at the lakes edge. The Buck knife must have laid buried in mud on the lake bottom(lake was quite low, 2 year drouth last summer) for years! Sheath was shrunken and rotton, brass was brown, wood handles looked literaly like new, "stainless steel" was totaly/100% turned red with rust! You would have thought it was a regular carbon steel knife from it. Pulled it open and noticed that some of the rust coating had flaked off the blade revealing shiny new surface underneath?! Once cleaned, the steel looked like stainless again except for being completely speckled with corrosion pitting.

Stainless steel ain't all that stainless, and different alloys have different corrosion resistance. I own three stainless S&W guns, a .40 caliber auto pistol and 2 revolvers, plus a stainless .25 automatic Bauer pistol. Aside from the Remington blackpowder clone, never had any rust on a stainless steel gun(knock on wood!).
 
Increase the frequency of applying a lubricant/protectant; such as Eezox.
Studies have proven that this stuff is the best rust preventive on the US
market. I use it, along side of "Break Free C-L-P"; as I have not totally
switched over to Eezox yet~! I'm having a hard time dealing with a
"dri-lube"~! :uhoh: ;) :D
 
Update:

UPS picked up 642 last Friday and was returned today (Friday). 1 week turn around.

S&W stated that they replaced the yoke on the 642, and that the stainless steel yoke rusted due to a incomplete process of Passivation. It is to remove the impurities from the stainless steel. Also the rep said that pure stainless steel does not rust it is the impurities left in the metal that shows in the form of rust.
 
Update on 642

I received my 642 last week and they replaced the rusted yoke but shaved inside of the aluminum frame for the new yoke to fit better.

I called S&W and complained, they sent me out a new shipping label, I returned the old 642, got a call today that they are sending me a brand NEW 642 !!!!

S&W is a great company that stands behind products with great customer service.

My new pistol should be here on Thursday or Friday. That is 1 week turn around again.
 
I second that its worth the extra for their customer service. I have been overwhelmed anytime I have contacted them. Its rare in todays world.
 
I agree with S&W price for better Customer Service.

While the S&W was sent back last Friday, I bought a new Taurus M85 bluded model for $269.95. I did this as a backup / spare. It's a solid gun and very good quality so I am not knocking the quality. Also I have heard about Taurus customer service and long wait times on repairs but since I have a S&W 642 I feel more secure if the Taurus has to go back for any reason. Always good to have a spare.
 
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Well, huh.......

I think my daughter got to the keyboard.
 
Last edited:
mquaack

Kinda and after the fact post, but still. I thought you might find this interesting seeing that you have had a rust problem. (I sure did) http://www.theboxotruth.com/docs/edu46.htm

Whats more interesting is how many people on a different forum freaked out when they read that he uses WD 40 to clean his guns. For some reason many people could not believe he would do that and insisted that other products HAD to be better. :confused: (but no one had a reason why. ;))

Makes PERFECT sense though;

WD-40 literally stands for Water Displacement, 40th attempt. That's the name straight out of the lab book used by the chemist who developed WD-40 back in 1953. The chemist, Norm Larsen, was attempting to concoct a formula to prevent corrosion ]-- a task which is done by displacing water. Norm's persistence paid off when he perfected the formula on his 40th try.
Click to expand...

Not going to have rust with that. :D
 
I have carried my 642 in a Mika's pocket holster, a breatheable vinyl, for nearly a year. It only comes out when I shoot or clean it, resting even in a bedside drawer in said holster at night. It's fine - as is it's older similarly stowed sibling - a 296. Your problem was accelerated by moisture retention and residual tanning chemicals in the holster. Your new one will follow a similar path, if stowed in the same manner - it's the leather holster! Even the finest customs will have that problem - especially since most are wet-molded around a form to fit. That moisture level stays high - especially in a damp environment.

Stainz
 
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