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Several questions for Tuner

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing and Repairs' started by 1911WB, Jun 5, 2004.

  1. 1911WB

    1911WB Well-Known Member

    Tuner- does the MGW barrel bushing you have mentioned generally drop in or require some fitting? Have you used the EGW angle-bored bushing- if so how does it compare to the MGW? If I've read you correctly, you like the Colt sear springs- do they really reduce trigger pull weight by about 1/2 lb. or is there more to that story? Do you believe in changing out the titanium firing pins that are so fashionable now with steel ones from Wilson or Brown? Thanks for your assistance as always.:) WB
  2. C-5Driver

    C-5Driver Member

    i'm not Tuner, but I just replaced my barrel bushing in my Springfield GI Mil-Spec with the EGW Angle-bored one. I bought the MGW first, based on the specs in the Brownell's catalog. The OD listed was right on and a good snug fit, but the ID was .584 instead of the .580 listed. That was the same as my stock Springfield bushing, so I sent it back and exchanged for the EGW. The EGW is very very close to a drop-in fit in the slide (I used the magic slurry and a bushing wrench to loosen it up a little). The ID was right on .580 and a perfect .001 larger than my barrel. I'm very satisfied with the EGW. It's a little thicker in the flange than stock, so the barrel fits flush with the end of the bushing when in battery. It's also not beveled at all on the front edge, so it looks a bit different.
    Take care!
  3. 1911WB

    1911WB Well-Known Member

    Thanks for info

    Dave, very good info on the bushings- thanks much. WB
  4. 1911Tuner

    1911Tuner Moderator Emeritus


    Howdy WB,

    MGW bushings come in two varieties..Drop-In and Hard-Fit. The Drop-Ins
    generally do, with only a little final lapping being needed once in a while.
    As C-5 Driver pointed out, once in a while you'll run into one that's not
    as advertised. MGW will replace those without question, but the ones
    that I've used have all had the advertised dimensions closely controlled.

    I've never used one of EGW's angled bored bushings, but have had good reports from those who have. One thing that many folks aren't aware of is that if you call them and provide your silde ID and barrel OD, they will
    custom make a bushing for your gun for a nominal extra charge. If you
    opt for that, remember to specify whether you want it tio be finger-tight in the slide, or one that requires a wrench. They'll do it either way. The
    custom-made bushings are generally sized for light final lapping. A dab
    of straight J&B Bore Cleaner or even Du-Pont Rubbing compound and a bushing wrench is all you'll need.


    Oops! Almost forgot. I don't care much for titanium firing pins on a carry gun. About the only advantage that I can see is that they make the gun less likely to drop-fire and on pistols that have an issue with primer swipes, they retract into the slide faster, which helps prevent it. That
    masks the real problem of early linkdown timing...but doesn't fix it


    Last edited: Jun 6, 2004
  5. 1911WB

    1911WB Well-Known Member

    More for Tuner

    Tuner, thanks for detailed info on bushings & firing pins. What about the Colt sear spring- does it really reduce trigger pull weight by about 1/2 lb. or is there more to it? Should the MIM sear in the Springer also be replaced? :confused:
  6. 1911Tuner

    1911Tuner Moderator Emeritus

    Sear Spring

    Howdy WB,
    Yep. The Colt sear spring will provide a little less tension, all else being equal. When you see one beside a standard sear spring, you'll understand why. The legs are narrowed for most of their length.
    I works on the same principal of narrowing the mainspring on
    the K, L, and N frame Smith & Wesson revolvers back in the day before we had available reduced-power mainsprings for tuning the double-action trigger on the revolvers.

    I replaced the MIM sear in the Springfield that I wrung out...but I'm a little
    anal-retentive about such things. Under normal useage, the stock sear
    will probably be fine. I've had Colt MIM sears go for tens of thousands of rounds without a failure. I'd be more concerned with the hooks on an MIM hammer. At any rate, it's best to change all three of the parts...hammer, sear, and disconnect...as a unit. Swapping one or two is a crapshoot. Might work fine...might not. It'll stand a better chance of working with a
    stock Colt hammer...which is steel...due to the .027 inch hook length and the factory angle.

    The Springfield hammer has good hook design and length...but it's MIM.
    Might not be a bad idea to have a smith at least check the engagement angles to make sure they're in agreement and compatible. The cost
    shouldn't be much for a minor adjustment on the sear primary as opposed to a full trigger job...



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