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Sling mounts for a 10/22

Discussion in 'Rifle Country' started by General Geoff, Nov 22, 2008.

  1. General Geoff

    General Geoff Well-Known Member

    So I just bought a 10/22 from a friend who needed they money, and I have a set of Tech-Sights' TSR200 aperture iron sights on order for it. But now that I'm looking at it, there seems to be no factory sling mounts on it. I can pick up a front barrel band with integral sling mount, but what about a rear sling mount? Any suggestions? I don't really want to get a new stock, I like the standard one.
  2. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

  3. General Geoff

    General Geoff Well-Known Member

    So will I need to drill a hole into the stock for the rear sling mount? There are no holes in it at the moment...
  4. Macmac

    Macmac Well-Known Member

    I sence you don't want to drill a hole in the wood stock. If so you don't need to MAYBE... It depends on what you want the sling for. If you use a sling to reduce the shakes this won't work.

    If you use a sling to carry the gun over your shoulder to free up both hands this is great.

    Choose a leather strap some what longer than the gun, or what you think you need, and cut a slit near one end. Pass the strap thru the slit and grab up the pistol grip area on the gun with the loop.

    Next figure out how much strap you need to carry the gun and form the strap on the fore arm barrel as you think you need it, and clamp it with a big blue spring steel paper clamp (typical office supplies) When you have this figured think about it more.. You can have several slits at this end making the sling some what adjustable. So don't be in a hurry cutting off the waste...

    I shoot a flinter called Nor' West Gun with no sling swivels and I am not willing to add any.

    Once you have decided, the way to install it is to work the fore arm part on first and leave it loose. Slide it to nearer the action and then install the butt end snug.

    Last slide the forend loop to the barrel/forearm amd snug that.
  5. General Geoff

    General Geoff Well-Known Member

    well I'd rather not have to drill a hole, but if I have to, I have to.

    I'll be installing either a cotton web or leather NM sling on it, for prone, sitting, and off hand sling-assisted shooting positions. So yeah I'll probably need to drill. :(
  6. CajunBass

    CajunBass Well-Known Member

    Nothing to it. Just pick up a set of sling swivles at Wally-World or any gun store and follow the instructions. They'll tell you what size drill bits to use and such.
  7. Macmac

    Macmac Well-Known Member

    Yup for that type of sling you will need to drill no less than one hole.. That one in the butt, which shouldn't be hard to do neatly. Be certian to stay more into the stock than 1.5 inches from the butt plate, so there is a far better chance no cracks will form.

    If you go with another in the fore arm that same rule applies. The other thing to take into consideration is the thickness of the fore arm and the 'flushness fit so nothing hits the barrel once all is said and done.

    In the butt stock it helps to use wide 2" masking tape before you lay out and drill anything. Then with a smaller bit press it hard right where you want to start the hole. An awl here can help or a really big nail held in pliers, if you don't have a center punch.

    The same applies to the fore arm, and a bit more... You should not just drive the bit thru to the inside. You should use greater care than that, and measure/gauge just what the distance is, and make a marker marking on the brill bit ot tape the bit at the point to stop drill before the bit passes thru the stock. With a sharp pointed awl then you poke a starter hole cnetered in the first hole, and flip the stock over and run the same bit back into the hole you drill from the out side.

    This way leaves less chances to gag the bit and tear wood fibers from the stock.

    Once you have the correct parts, the job shouldn't take much over 15 minutes counting putting the tools away.

    If you purchase a sling stud correctly and these don't have a tool in the kit to turn them with a "L" shape allen tools works well.

    Just make sure once the studs are just snug and flush with the wood that the fore arm one doesn't set up too high.

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