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That vilest of four-letter words: Rust.

Discussion in 'Handguns: Autoloaders' started by BHPshooter, Aug 16, 2004.

  1. BHPshooter

    BHPshooter New Member

    This is getting a little out of hand. I check my FEG daily for rust under the grips. And almost every day, I am mystified to find rusty sludge under there (a nice combination of CLP and rust). :barf:

    So, I decided to give the carnauba wax thing another try. I tried it once ages ago, but I'm not so sure I did it right. This time, I made sure I did it right.

    I'll let you all know how it turns out.

    Until then (in case this doesn't work out) I need a foolproof way to stop this crap, until I get another job and enough money for a refinish (in gunkote... Take that, rust!).

    Recommendations, anybody? I know now that I have corrosive perspiration, so take that into consideration.

    Thanks for any help you may offer.
  2. AirPower

    AirPower New Member

    is FEG frame area under the grip painted? I think it is. If it's rusted already then they will tend to continue unless you keep it totally isolated from moisture. If you keep it soaked with CLP I don't know why it keeps getting worse. Do you keep it in some humid location? Try sealing your wood grip with something like tung oil or lemon oil. this will cut off moisture transfer from wood to steel.
  3. George Hill

    George Hill New Member

  4. Peter M. Eick

    Peter M. Eick New Member

    I second corrosion x. Works great in the deep south of Houston, TX.

    On my Carry gun (H&K P7-PSP) I got it Tefloned by Briley out of Houston. It has worked great and held up very very well. I guess about 4 years now, of routine carry with no rust. I am just starting to see a bit of wear in the coating on the slide where it goes in and out of the holster.
  5. BHPshooter

    BHPshooter New Member

    Thanks, George. I'll look into that stuff.

    No, mine's blued. It just doesn't put up with "corrosive sweat." I'm also using the military style checkered plastic grips. For the life of me, I can't figure out why that would get the best of CLP.

    Thanks for the help, guys. ;)

  6. JNewell

    JNewell New Member

    You might try Boeshield. It leaves a wax-like residue that is VERY corrosion-resistant. I use it on fastners on the underside of my Jeep and is essentially salt-proof for years at a stretch. You wouldn't want it anywhere but under the grip panels, probably, but that sounds like the job at hand?
  7. SLCDave

    SLCDave New Member


    I have an XD40, and they have a finish that is lacking, to put it nicely. I've tried several things to keep the rust off, and so far Armadillo from Blue Wonder is doing the best job. They call it a dry lubricant, but it's pretty much like applying a wax. You get some on a damp cloth, swirl it on, let it dry to a haze, and buff it off. You don't leave any fingerprints after handling, and I haven't had rust come back since.
  8. BHPshooter

    BHPshooter New Member


    Just found this: http://www.boeshield.com/chart.htm

    Break-free CLP has a rating of 0 (0 minimum score; 4 maximum) for saltwater, which is essentially what sweat is.

  9. P95Carry

    P95Carry Moderator Emeritus

    Wes, Before I carried my SP .. I used my M85 snub ... which was blued. Sad to say it did suffer some corrosion, mainly on left (body side) just above and under top of grips. I also have wickedly corrosive sweat! I sould have checked it daily but all too often didn't ... due I guess to my carry being all the time.

    There is some pitting I have to confess but as this was a gun for pure function and not pretties .... I lived with that. I did also notice CLP's protection is not too long lasting.

    RIG grease does a better job but I think now my approach is in some way wax oriented. I got some Boeshield and that seems pretty long lasting tho I also think properly applied carnauba, and varients thereof - will do pretty well. One coat is probably not enough ... and so I tend to apply ... let dry a bit and buff .... and then repeat, several times.

    One other thing worth a thought, perhaps .. if you have lost the cosmetic purity in an area like just under grips .. and if also the gun is workehorse more than safe queen .. consider application of some sort of conversion treatment. Could be either a phosphate method or - one of the newer type organic conversion fluids. After that - then - apply wax.
  10. Drjones

    Drjones member

  11. SLCDave

    SLCDave New Member

    About Eezox...

    I generally like Eezox, except for it's protective properties. I've gotten rust using Eezox, but as a CLP, I like it better than Breakfree. I use Eezox in the innards, Armadillo on the externals.
  12. BHPshooter

    BHPshooter New Member

    Thanks, guys. I've got many leads now.

    I just checked under the grips again, and although I didn't use any CLP this time, the rust had spread a little bit... even through 3 layers of wax. However, I liked that the wax did seem to protect the rest of the pistol -- where rust hadn't established itself -- very well.

    But the rust under the grips is still surviving, so... I got drastic. I found a brand new container of petroleum jelly in the garage that no one would miss, so I decided to give it a try.

    I decided to give the whole pistol a rub-down with it, and then buff off the excess. I was afraid of it being slippery, but it's not. Then, with a q-tip, I applied generously under the grips, put the grips back on, and wiped off the excess.

    I think I might have a winning hand here, for once. I'll let you guys know how it turns out (until I can afford to buy some of those other products). ;)

  13. 44

    44 New Member

    I've tested several rust prevention compounds in my business. So far, I consider the following 3 to be the best, and about equal:

    (1) RIG +P Stainless Lube.
    (2) Johnson's Paste Wax - the ordinary amber-colored wax in the big can.
    (3) Hoppe's Gun Grease - made for gun storage.

    RIG rust prevention grease is pretty good too, as is RIG oil. Silencio sells RIG products.

    Most oils and greases are useless in preventing corrosion. You can test them by coating some clean bare steel, sprinkle it with ordinary garden hose water, and let it dry in the sun. adk
  14. Big Mike

    Big Mike New Member

    Hard Chrome.
  15. sm

    sm member

    Another Vote for -

    RIG products.
    Johnson paste wax.
    Good Carnuba car wax.

    I still use RIG the most here in the South , always have, always worked. This and the two others are handy, not terribly expensive and no worries on hurting stocks, grips or finishes.

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