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Wax Bullets. .45 Colt?

Discussion in 'Handloading and Reloading' started by ndh87, Sep 27, 2008.

  1. ndh87

    ndh87 Well-Known Member

    Im interested in loading some wax bullets to use in my .45 colt. I was looking at the SASS quick draw shooting website and saw that they use wax rounds. Considering the price of lead it seems like wax would be a good way to practice too.

    Does anyone know any specifics about loading these rounds? Im already set up to load 45 Colt so the hardware isnt a problem. I might just invest in the brass thats setup for the 209 primers. Do you just have to press the wax rounds in like anything else or is there some heating involved?

    any information would be appreciated.

    heres a link for the wax rounds.
  2. .38 Special

    .38 Special Well-Known Member

    I have not used the Bandit wax; all my experience is with the C&R wax and shells.

    They work very well as long as the range is not more than 10-15 yards. Brass drilled for shotgun primers makes it simple: push a bullet into the case with finger pressure until it is flush with the case mouth. Drop a primer into the case, load, and shoot. The primer will fall out with gravity power and the case is ready to load again. The only real downside is that shotgun primers are loud. I can't use them in my suburban garage as they are essentially as loud as a .22 LR.

    So my wax shooting is done mostly with standard cases/primers. The flash holes have to be drilled out so that the primers don't back out and tie up the gun. Prime and deprime with a standard press. I use a decapping-only die so I'm not constantly resizing the case. The bullets have to be pushed all the way into the bottom of the case. Seating them flush with the case mouth results in wildly erratic velocities, bloopers, and bullets stuck in the bore. I use an old bolt with the head turned down in a lathe; the threaded end goes into the drill press and then the drill press handle lowers the rounded-off bolt head into the case, forcing the wax all the way down.

    It all works, but is obviously a bit of a pain.

    The only other consideration is cleaning. C&R recommends the bore be cleaned every, IIRC, 50 rounds, using hot water and a brush. I have one gun set aside for wax and have found that it never needs to be cleaned except before shooting standard rounds through it. The wax seems to build up to a certain point and then becomes self-limiting, kind of akin to the .22 LR situation. It may be safe to fire standard ammo through a waxy bore, but I'd hate to find out that it isn't.

  3. scrat

    scrat Well-Known Member

    in a nuttshell here you go.

    You take some .452 molds. coat the inside with vegetable oil. A light coat but make sure its well coated. Then you heat up a glue gun. Yep those cheap glue guns you see at stores. once it comes to temp fill the mold cavity with the wax (glue). Use a rubber band to keep the mold haves together and put it in the freezer to let it cool down. Once it cools down you may have to use a razor blade to cut the back side to make sure it is flat. Now after you shoot do not size the cases. Take a drill and drill out the primer pocket with about 1/8 drill bit. Then prime them with normal primers and load the glue bullets. I cant say its a lot cheaper. The benefit is that you could load up a revolver in your back yard and shoot them at a cardboard box with a plywood back. then after you shoot 6 rounds. Go get the glue bullets. deprime the shells and reload again.

    On castboolits.com there is an article on it.
    do a search on here for gluebullets and wax bullets you will see some old threads
  4. .38 Special

    .38 Special Well-Known Member

    The Cast Boolit folks swear that the hot glue bullets work fine, and I believe them. I just can't imagine going through all that trouble when wax costs $25 per 1000 shipped.
  5. scrat

    scrat Well-Known Member

  6. scrat

    scrat Well-Known Member

    because the glue bullets are reuseable wax bullets are not really
  7. .38 Special

    .38 Special Well-Known Member

    $25 per thousand, shipped. :neener:

    I still haven't tried the "foam ear plug" bullets yet. They would probably be scads of fun to shoot at the local mouse population -- and I'll bet the mice would be reusable too!
  8. Wildfire

    Wildfire Well-Known Member


    Hey There;
    I too drilled out the primer holes. (keep them away from real loading)
    I melted wax in a pan about 1/2" or deep. I have at times just set the cases in the melted wax and wait till it cools then twist the brass and pull it out.
    No matter how you go about it, it works . They are very strong and would really hurt. They cut thru news paper very well. And in the .45 and 38s they seem to be accurate at close ranges. They are loud.
    Never try to reload real bullets after drilling that primer hole.
  9. ndh87

    ndh87 Well-Known Member

    What does drilling out that primer hole do when it comes to real rounds?
  10. Hunter0924

    Hunter0924 Well-Known Member

    If you load a live round in a case with an enlarged primer hole the pressure will spike quicker.
    I use .45 caliber plastic bullets from Speer in .45 Automatic, .460 Rowland, and .45 Colt and I did not drill out the primer pocket.
    With just a primer the plastic bullet will go through a magazine and into a cardboard box.
    They would hurt bad and they are hard enough to reuse.
  11. The Bushmaster

    The Bushmaster Well-Known Member

    ndh87...Drill out your .45 Colt case primer flash holes. Press in either a magnum or standard primer (preferably a magnum primer). Warm up a rectangular canning parifen block (3 to 4" long by 2 to 2 1/2" wide and 1/2" thick) until it is just pliable and push the primed case into the parifen (like a cookie cutter). Use a match or lighter and just warm the case mouth enough to just barely melt the edge of the parifen to seal the case mouth. Shoot'em and reload them again...Good for about 15 to 20 feet. Will sting the hell out of a stray dog in your yard and make the sound of a BB gun...

    Must warn you though...They sure wax up a barrel...Messy...

    As long as you don't drill it too over sized it will have no or little effect on the case when loaded with powder and lead bullets. Winchester has been using enlarged primer flash holes in some of its eco friendly cartridges. Drill it no larger then 1/8" to 9/64" and you'll be just fine either way...
  12. Griz44

    Griz44 Well-Known Member

    Cutting a standard hot glue stick into .7" length works fine for .45 as well. Makes a great practice wadcutter.

    Attached Files:

  13. Wildfire

    Wildfire Well-Known Member

    enlarged primer holes.

    Hey there:
    I have never seen an 1/8" primer hole in any factory ammo. An 1/8" hole will help push the wax bullet out with more volume and less PSI. Just the opposite is true when useing real loads with powder in there. But then I am sure someone will try it.
    I did. It will smoke up the back end pretty good. Gas can and does get around the primer.

    I too have used the plastic bullets in a .38.... They hit hard...
  14. Remo-99

    Remo-99 Well-Known Member

    Or another way is to; with flashole enlarged (for revolvers), unsized case, put a wad cut from a hollow hole punch, push it right down into the case (unprimed, at this stage) light a candle over a case and drip the wax into it (only fill upto halfway for long cases like 357mag), after they are cool then prime CAREFULLY with mag primers if possible. Those suckers punch a hole straight through an empty soda can at 10 yards in my 357mag and 45acp. Good indoor/garage practice on rainy days.
  15. SASS#23149

    SASS#23149 Well-Known Member

    I found some glue sticks that are a snug fit in 45 colt cases that have been fired,gonna chill them in the freezer to see if they'll bo in easier.

    this could be fun !
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2008
  16. Remo-99

    Remo-99 Well-Known Member

    SASS#23149 - My option would be to size those cases, if you can still push the glue bullets in by hand, being that they are only primer propelled ammo your not trying to ignite powder so either way should give results.
    Be sure to enlarge the flashole for revolvers, otherwise the primers back out and bind up the cylinder.
    If you do size them cases first, try a very slight bell on the case mouth to aid loading.
  17. SASS#23149

    SASS#23149 Well-Known Member

    :( :(

    I enlarged the flash hole,loaded a chunk of glue stick,primed with win Mag/Reg primer...don't see how one can do the job of both...and now the 'bullet' is STUCK STUCK STUCK in the barrel.

    gottta get to work,I"ll get it out tomorrow.

    am going to buy some Federal Magnum primers to try.
  18. PotatoJudge

    PotatoJudge Well-Known Member

  19. Remo-99

    Remo-99 Well-Known Member

    SASS#23149 - It sounds to me that those glue sticks maybe too hard (and tight fitting in the barrel) to be pushed out by just the primer, shotshell primers might an option though.

    Or just use the wax slugs.
  20. Remo-99

    Remo-99 Well-Known Member

    sorry, it double posted

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