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What clever little things have you "invented or discovered" that you can share?

Discussion in 'Handloading and Reloading' started by James THR, Aug 28, 2006.

  1. wirrklunk

    wirrklunk Member

    That's neat. I think I would mount it in a little box with the wire under the bench and the counter facing the working position. This was the way to show its workings though, Thanks for the good idea.
  2. malpaismike

    malpaismike Active Member

    Loading BP cartridges on my Dillon

    Hello the camp! I've ramped up BP production by putting a Lyman BP measure on my Dillon 550. I rethreaded one of the drop tube links to fit a Lee Powder-Thru belling die, then attached the BP measure. Due to serious CRS, I use a roofing nail to assure I've thrown the charge before seating a boolit. So far, it's working like a champ.
    For technicals, the pic shows source of die. I chucked adapter in my drillpress, put die in the dp vise and used a rubber strap wrench to turn the chuck. It worked like I knew what I was doin'--for a change.
    For perspective, I used to do the first two stages--size/decap, prime and bell neck--in batches. I then dipped bp charge, placed bullet, then finished the last operations--seat bullet and crimp--enough for fresh ammo at the next match. New procedure cuts tact time in half.
    See ya round the campfire. mm
  3. gamestalker

    gamestalker member

    A niffty little trick I've been using for about 30 yrs., is not belling mouths on any of my brass brass, instead I slightly bevel the inside of the mouth to start the bullet straight, and also prevent it from shaving the bullets, or buckling the brass.

    Since their is no belling of the case mouth, the need to use a crimp on auto loading brass such as 9mm and any other cartridges that head space off the mouth is completely eliminated. Obviously a crimp is still needed for cases that head space off the case head, but it helps to eliminate issues some have with over belling mouths from time to time.

    The only exception would be when loading non jacketed bullets. I do however use this same method for plated bullets such as Speer Gold Dots. I have never had a single problem since I began doing it this way.

  4. swoope18

    swoope18 New Member

    One thing I have found to have is my laminator. Find good info online, print it, laminate it and put in the library box on bench.
  5. Lost Sheep

    Lost Sheep Well-Known Member

    Endless Powder Bowl

    Endless powder bowl.

    This would be useful for loaders who use a dipper (commercially made or home-made) to dole out their powder (either directly into their cases or into a scale for "trickling up" to weight).

    It keeps itself filled by gravity and empties itself back into the powder jug when you put it away.

    Never have to refill it. Never return powder to the wrong jug.

    I have not built a prototype yet, but am getting close.

    It works like this:

    Secure the bowl (upside down) atop your powder container (bottle, jug or keg). When you invert the assembly, gravity keeps the bowl filled as you use a dipper to dole out powder.

    When you are done, turn the assembly upright. The powder flows back into the container by gravity.

    Thus, there is no risk of returning powder back into the wrong container. The bowl never runs out of powder (until the jug goes empty, of course).

    Would there be a market for such a device? Anyone interested in plans (once I get them drawn)?

    I picure the market would be anyone who uses dippers and is irritated about constantly having to refill their powder bowl or paranoid about returning powder to the wrong original container.

    I appreciate any feedback, on the thread or by PM.

    Thanks for reading.

    Lost Sheep
  6. YankeeFlyr

    YankeeFlyr Well-Known Member

    That a 1/4-20 Bolt is the perfect size to screwjack a stuck 30-06 case out of a resizing die.

    Remove said die from press, drill & tap up through primer pocket for thread as above, use socket as a spacer/bearing surface and tighten bolt. Case pops out real nice.

    (Lube threads with motor oil prior to extraction.)
  7. Crashbox

    Crashbox Well-Known Member

    My reloading area is now quite bright with the twin T-8 fluorescent fixture plus four, 13-watt CFL clamp-ons above it. So at about the same time I added the third and fourth CFL's I also installed a rope light to illuminate the two shelf areas below:


    It is REALLY nice to be able to see what is below, without squinting.
  8. blarby

    blarby Well-Known Member


    Apparently, junk science ! NM !
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2012
  9. ephrank

    ephrank New Member

    This is my counter on my Rockchucker just a little mechanical counter mounted so I Can swing it out of the way if I don’t want to count.

    This was not my idea I ran across it on you tube for cleaning primer pockets, but it Works for uniforming also. It is just a Styrofoam insert from a 20 round ammo box between 2 pieces of wood, and a support peace below it. Then tighten to hold. I chuck a Lyman primer uniformer in the cordless drill and go for it.
    Did 200 rounds in no time. Much much better than one at a time.

    Attached Files:

  10. Clark

    Clark Well-Known Member

    The stainless steel media in a Thumlers Tumbler drum will stay wet for months.

    But is will dry out in a day with 3 paper towels acting as a siphon wick.

    I get the towel under the media, up over the lip, and then down lower than the media.
    The paper towel will air dry [unlike media] and then suck more liquid down to up and over and down lower to air dry.
  11. Lost Sheep

    Lost Sheep Well-Known Member

    Anyone Stripped the holes in the Lee Auto Disk Powder Hopper?

    If you strip out the holes in your Standard Lee Auto-Disk Powder Measure, you can fix it up better than new (but perhaps not as good as the Pro Hopper, I admit):

    Get some 1/8" diameter stock (0.125") or 7/64" maybe. I have seen coat hangar wire up to 0.11" which might do, too, but most of the typical stuff is only .08" and might not be stiff enough or hole-filling enough.

    Note out how far the wires go in the holes.

    Wrap the wire with tape below that point, enough to be a tight fit in the mounting holes in the powder measure body, but not so tight that you will have trouble inserting it quickly.

    The wires should be long enough to stick out the other end of the holes in the powder measure body (you may have to push on them to separate the hopper from the body if the glue sticks. A half-inch or so will do, you can cut it shorter later if you want.

    Optional: Put a little silicone grease on the measure's body near the holes to prevent the glue from sticking to it.

    Put plastic cement or cyanoacrylate glue on the end of the wire and put some of the same glue in the stripped out holes in the powder measure hopper (you can do this one hole at a time if you want).

    Quickly assemble the whole powder measure and let the glue set.

    If you used threaded stock, you could thread a knurled nut onto the rod and you have an approximation of the principal advantage of the Pro Auto-Disk Powder Hopper (without the larger capacity or the elastomer "wiper").

    If you used plain stock, you have some more steps to do.

    Form two square double hooks ("S" hook) of 1/8" or 7/64" diameter stock. One of the openings of the hook should be the thickness of the powder hopper, about .0875" to .9", but a little too large would not be critical. The opposing opening of the double hook should be large enough to accomodate your rubber band.

    Cut a 1/8" slot in the lip of the powder hopper cover, enough that you can hook the "S" hooks on each side of the hopper and still be able to remove and replace the cover. The slot, of course should line up with the mount holes of the hopper.

    Attach a rubber band (each) to the other end of the two "S" hooks.

    Stretch the rubber band down to the 1/8" diameter plain stock that is sticking out of the holes in the powder measure body and loop it over. If it's too short, get a longer one or fashion an extension with a string or something. If too long, double loop it.

    I have not done this, as I have not yet stripped the threads on my powder hopper.

    Another option: If (before you do this) you file some of the material off the bottom of your powder hopper, you might possibly cure some degree of powder leakage (if you have any that is due to excess clearance between the bottom of the hopper and the top of the disk).

    Has anyone done this before?

    If you mail me your tired, stripped out powder hopper, I will try it and let you know if it works.

    I composed this before I checked on the price of a replacement hopper ($2.99) so now it seems hardly worth it.

    But, if you are in a pinch and have some coathangar wire around, it might be.

    Lost Sheep
  12. Krogen

    Krogen Well-Known Member

    Primer Flipper Trays

    Ever get irritated at those primer flippers? Supposedly those ridges will turn the primers anvil up and then you can simply put the lid on and flip over the whole tray. However.... Just when you're about to flip the last primer over, another one seems to turn over the wrong way. It can be aggravating.

    I had a "duh moment" recently. I just put the primers in the tray as one would normally do. Then I pick up the primers that are anvil down with the primer tube. Now I put the lid on and flip over the tray and continue picking up primers. I don't know why I didn't think of that 20 years ago!

  13. gamestalker

    gamestalker member

    When loading jacketed bullets for auto loading cartridges such as 9mm and 40 S&W, I have never had to bell my case mouths or use the crimp. I first chamfer the inside of the mouths a nice bit to allow for straight seating and no shaving, and then I seat the bullet without having to taper crimp. This has worked well for me for over 30 yrs. and has virtually eliminated the need to bell, thus eliminating the need to use a crimp to close the bell. I've also found that my brass will last a bit longer, I get maximum neck tension, and it speeds up the loading process some as well.

    I've turned quite a few reloaders on to this method over the years and all have found it to work well for them. It does work for plated bullets if the inside of the mouths are chamfered properly. But for non jacketed lead, it could be a problem I would imagine.

  14. Clark

    Clark Well-Known Member


    After necking down 308 brass to 260 with a home made 0.299" neck die, the brass would not go into a Lee 260 Collet Neck die without getting squished.

    I took the collet die apart, pried the collet tines apart with a screwdriver, and then the brass would go in the die.
  15. WallyEC

    WallyEC New Member

    I had a piece of 1x2 laying around (maple). I drilled a hole in it and now it is a washer for the Lyman tumbler.
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2012
  16. beatledog7

    beatledog7 Well-Known Member

    I have a Lyman tumbler whose lid is not solid but "louvered," allowing dust to escape during tumbling. I discovered an old give away flying disk toy that fits over the Lyman lid. I used a heavily beveled case neck to press a hole in the center of the disk to fit over the tumbler's center bolt. Placed over the factory lid, this closes off the louvers and keeps the dust inside the tumbler.
  17. Skinnedknuckles

    Skinnedknuckles Well-Known Member

    I bought a pair of Bell (fingerless) bicycle gloves at WalMart for use a shooting gloves, and the padded palms really help when shooting .357 Magnum loads.

    They work even better when reloading. I use a Lee turret press and I put the right hand glove on and it makes it so much easier to work the lever. It slides on the wooden ball on the end of the lever, avoiding bisters on your palm, and it cushions you palm as well. Seems to make it easier to pull as well. Wish I had thought to use it a few thousand lever pulls ago!
  18. Float Pilot

    Float Pilot Well-Known Member

    Coca-Cola will eat hard carbon from primer pockets. Soak in a plastic cup for a couple of hours, then rinse with boiling water. Any super hard carbon will now be soft and wipe right out with a Q-Tip.

    Denatured Alcohol and a rag, will clean any sort of lube or grease off brass or bullets and evaporate soon there after.

    A once used anti-static dryer towel will take away any static cling inside your power thower tube or other plastic parts like powder pans. Just wipe the surface with a once used dryer towel.

    Mark several lines around the sides of taper crimp dies. They can be tuned to just the right amount of crimp and it makes a bigger difference then you think in velocity and accuracy if you are too tight or too loose. If you are affraid of your Sharpe Pen marks wearing off, take a thin cutting wheel on your dremil tool and cut a few shallow lines as adjsutemnt marks.
  19. Lost Sheep

    Lost Sheep Well-Known Member

    Comments on post from Float Pilot

    As I understand it, Cola has, its primary dissolving ingredients, Phosphoric Acid and Carbolic (or or is Carbonic) acid. Acetic acid (also known as White Vinegar) might work as well. But NEVER use ammonia as a brass cleaning agent, as it will chemically interact and weaken the brass.

    Popular science has it that Coca Cola (and many other sodas) will dissolve teeth and other things pretty fast), Usually cited by people concerned about dental health. They have good evidence. Brass, however, is not dentin.
    Only if you rinse.

    If you don't rinse (or wipe, as Float Pilot suggests) the dissolved gunk will still be there (re-deposit or precipitate, as the chemistry defines) and leave you wanting.

    Float Pilot, your post is excellent. I just wanted to weigh in on some caveats that might be appropriate.

    Lost sheep
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2012
  20. .22-5-40

    .22-5-40 Well-Known Member

    For single-shot rifles, I make chamber guides/throat protector from drilled out case head for slip-fit on cleaning rod. On larger calibers, I bush case mouth with turned up brass bushing Lock-Tite or soft solder in place.
    I even do this for vintage rimfires..some of those extractors are sharp as razors & will peel a coated rod 1st. time thru!
    Nylon or delrin plugs fitted into primer pockets for snap-caps.

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