But the 1/7 is better for the 75-77gr bullets than the 1/8.
What lighter bullets do you have in mind when you suggest the 1/8 as a better choice than the 1/7?
What should I look fr in an AR?
- Thread starter Matt Dillon
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But the 1/7 is better for the 75-77gr bullets than the 1/8.
What lighter bullets do you have in mind when you suggest the 1/8 as a better choice than the 1/7?
Warp, with all due respect I think you are putting it on just a little too thick about the 1:7 really being much better and a must have versus say a 1:8 for shooting heavy bullets. If I were going to go buy a seriously accurate out of the box AR-15, I would probably get a LaRue OBR. It comes with an accuracy guarantee. That guarantee is premised on shooting 77 grain federal match. The LaRue is a gun tailored for accuracy. People who shoot ARs for long range accuracy tend to shoot heavier bullets. Do you know what the twist rate is on the 5.56 LaRues? You guessed it. They are 1:8 guns.
One needs to also look at other factors in the guns set up and the intended use not just barrel twist. Barrel legnth makes difference in what twist will do what as well. Krieger, sells a barrel that is 1:7.7 twist and said to be optimal for shooting 77 grain SMKs. Krieger knows a thing or two about barrel making.
I don't have experience with it, but have heard that Lothar Walther's 1:8 barrels shoot the 69-77 range just fine too.
My point is simply that one shouldn't discount every gun for all uses simply because it is not a 1:7 twist. One could buy a 1:8 twist OBR or Predator and do just fine shooting 77 grain bullets. There are lots of setups where you wont see a dime's worth of difference shooting 77 grain bullets based simply one 1:8 vs 1:7.
The 1:8s should in theory let you shoot the real light varmint bullets as well. My guess is not many people really shoot the spectrum of say 40 grain bullets all the way to 77.
One needs to also look at other factors in the guns set up and the intended use not just barrel twist. Barrel legnth makes difference in what twist will do what as well. Krieger, sells a barrel that is 1:7.7 twist and said to be optimal for shooting 77 grain SMKs. Krieger knows a thing or two about barrel making.
I don't have experience with it, but have heard that Lothar Walther's 1:8 barrels shoot the 69-77 range just fine too.
My point is simply that one shouldn't discount every gun for all uses simply because it is not a 1:7 twist. One could buy a 1:8 twist OBR or Predator and do just fine shooting 77 grain bullets. There are lots of setups where you wont see a dime's worth of difference shooting 77 grain bullets based simply one 1:8 vs 1:7.
The 1:8s should in theory let you shoot the real light varmint bullets as well. My guess is not many people really shoot the spectrum of say 40 grain bullets all the way to 77.
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meanmrmustard
Member
Meh, groups just as well, so I can't agree that the 1/7 is better per se. 1/8 lends itself to being the jack of all trades. It covers a good array of weights, like those you listed, and shoots them well.
As for lighter weight, sub 55s were what I thought I'd said. I've observed tighter groups with 53 gr out of 1/8 than the 1/7, but neither as good as 1/9 for lighter pills. Mind you, these are my yote loads.
Matt Dillon
Member
Well, folks, I pulled the trigger on an AR. As much as I would have liked to have found one with a 1 in 7" barrel, due to price and availability, I settled for a Windham, with a 1 in 9" barrel. Now I need to accessorize it, and am looking for a quad rail, bipod, and have to figure out what sort of sight it will have eventually.
I am planning to first mount a 6x24 scope on it at first, to help me with load development as I figure out what will be my best loads for plinking and hunting. I. Guess I am limited to 55-69 grain bullets due to the twist rate.
Also, does anyone know if there is a barrel break in procedure for this weapon?
I am planning to first mount a 6x24 scope on it at first, to help me with load development as I figure out what will be my best loads for plinking and hunting. I. Guess I am limited to 55-69 grain bullets due to the twist rate.
Also, does anyone know if there is a barrel break in procedure for this weapon?
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WinThePennant
Member
I am going to assume that this is a chrome lined barrel?
If it is chrome lined, then there is no break-in to be done. Just shoot the piss out of it.
If it is steel, then you'll need to break it in. There are a million Internet references on how to do this.
meanmrmustard
Member
Break in is snake oil. JSI.
Being "limited" to 55-69 grain is a bad thing? Plenty of good options there.
Remember, if this rifle is for hunting, you'll be packing it around. While some accessories are useful, beware that bolting useless crap to your rifle increases weight. Good luck with it!
What uses will this rifle see?
There's no barrel break in procedure.
It's probably a good idea to get out and shoot it before deciding you have to add accessories.
Matt Dillon
Member
Thanks again for all your comments. Yes the bore and chamber are chrome lined, so I guess there is no barrel break in process.
I don't plan on adding a bunch of accessories, but would like. Reasonably priced quad rail, and eventually a low magnification scope or magnified red dot, along with. Bipod. I would
Ike to get the quad rail and bipod installed before I start load development as I am sure they will affect barrel harmonics. By the way, are the fore grip/bipod combinations any good, or should I stick with a Harris bipod?
I don't plan on adding a bunch of accessories, but would like. Reasonably priced quad rail, and eventually a low magnification scope or magnified red dot, along with. Bipod. I would
Ike to get the quad rail and bipod installed before I start load development as I am sure they will affect barrel harmonics. By the way, are the fore grip/bipod combinations any good, or should I stick with a Harris bipod?
Potatohead
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i made the mistake of getting one with a fixed carry handle. if i had it to do over again i would get one with a detachable handle, or no handle at all. any optic has to be mounted on top of the handle now
Why not just get a rail/handguard that is free floating?
Matt
I probably missed your intent to make it a benchrest shooter. My priorities are different, so if that's your gig, make the barrel long and the forend heavy so no harmonics will interfere. A heavy muzzle break also. I have found over the years, an all around AR is a hard compromise. You will be happier with a clear goal in mind.
Matt Dillon
Member
Regarding free floating, I am not sure how to do hat with this platform. I think a free floating hand guard with a bottom rail would work well. I don't need to hang lights/lasers off of every nook and cranny. To be honest with you, I am still exploring the possibilities with regard to accessories. Thanks for the suggestions!
You should go tell Todd Hodnett that. Better yet, start your own company and take away accuracy firsts market share. You can then have some of the most elite shooters in the world come to you since Hodnett doesn't know what he is talking about. Is Hodnett a snake oil salesman? Or does he just know less than you?
His break in is of course of match barrels and not the chrome lined Windham being discussed now.
Gayle McMillan built some good shooters. I owned one. He laughed at "pre-shooting" or breaking-in barrels, especially high-dollar match quality ones. He even went so far as to void warranties on his barrels if any type of bore compound was used.
His argument was that if a "match" barrel needed breaking in or lapping, the barrel maker failed to finish his job.
My instructions direct from Shilen for a new stainless match barrel? Shoot ten, clean, repeat. Done.
Barrel break-in for an AR? Nyet...just shoot it.
Good luck
M
His argument was that if a "match" barrel needed breaking in or lapping, the barrel maker failed to finish his job.
My instructions direct from Shilen for a new stainless match barrel? Shoot ten, clean, repeat. Done.
Barrel break-in for an AR? Nyet...just shoot it.
Good luck
M
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