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What tools for my ar build

Discussion in 'Rifle Country' started by JBrady555, Jul 13, 2014.

  1. JBrady555

    JBrady555 Well-Known Member

    Ill make this short and simple. I got all my build parts and i need to know every tool that ill need for assembly. Im at work so gotta run. Thanks.
  2. gotigers

    gotigers Well-Known Member

    An armorers wrench, AR upper vise blocks, vise, torque wrench, moly grease. A screw driver or hex driver depending which grip screw you have. A set of snap ring pliers if you are using a standard forend with a delta ring.
  3. Tirod

    Tirod Well-Known Member

    Not many, and certainly not all the special tools an armorer uses. For a one time build, it's pretty simple.

    Pair of vice grips with taped jaws to start roll pins
    Old drill bits to finish centering them
    Small hammer to tap on the bits
    Some kind of large pliers to turn the barrel nut enough to get the gas tube to pass thru.

    The combination wrench sold that "does it all" is a nice to have but isn't necessary. Neither is a torque wrench, and the spec to turn the barrel nut is a minimum 30 pounds, you try not to exceed 80 to prevent stripping the threads on the upper nose.

    Lots of tips and tricks are here: http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_4/22...__GAS_BLOCK___Step_by_step_instructions_.html

    A block of wood that will fit in the mag well secured to something strong is about it. It holds the lower with the upper attached to tighten the barrel nut. That and a pair of bib overalls and a lumberyard hat - because even an old hillbilly can assemble a working AR and do it right.

    It's not about the tools, it's really about knowing what to do and the forces involved are in the range a 12 year old girl can handle. One of the absolutely remarkable features of the AR is that it's design eliminates all the fancy gunsmithing, tools, presses, and special procedures IF you buy the barrel with the extension on it and already headspaced. After that, the rocket science already fixed everything else.
  4. gotigers

    gotigers Well-Known Member

    If you build one, you'll build others. Get the right tools. A bar type torque wrench is cheap. An armorers wrench is cheap and is very useful. I would only use vise blocks made for an AR upper. I have seen AR uppers twisted because the barrel was assembled without the proper vise block. Why take the risk.

    You don't have to buy the blocks, torque wrench and armorers wrench. There are probably locals that will loan you the tools for a weekend or help you assemble the parts. We have AR build parties fairly often. Ask around your area.

    If you plan on building others, get the right tools. Everyone needs a vise and torque wrench anyways.
  5. dprice3844444

    dprice3844444 member

    they make a special punch for starting the roll pin in the bolt release.makes less of marks on frame.small curved hemostat works nice for installing the small detent pins.i use a single edge razor blade to hold the front detent pin down while installing the front pin.small tube of permatex anti seize compound for the barrel nut and a dab for the grip screw and spring tube.
  6. Model99

    Model99 Member

    I'm new at building myself and recommend a good set of Go / NoGo gauges for checking the headspace between your barrel and bolt. While this should not be a problem with Mil spec parts I did check my first build only to find that my 16 inch SS bull barrel from DPMS was not head spacing correctly. DPMS will fix the problem free of charge but I don't want to think what could have happened had I just put all the parts together and fired the weapon. My bolt would not close on the NoGo or the Go gauge. Found mine online for about 60 bucks.
    Best 60 bucks I spent and I will be checking all builds from here on in.
  7. JBrady555

    JBrady555 Well-Known Member

    Will my vltor mur upper fit in any upper vice block? Its a little different.
  8. Outlaw Man

    Outlaw Man Well-Known Member

    I'd recommend getting a quality wrench for the barrel nut if you're doing that part of the assembly. I had a cheap one where the posts weren't really true cylinders. It had a tendency to slip out and strip the teeth on the barrel nut if you weren't careful. It would work, but my new one fits much better (though it doesn't work with a heavy barrel).

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