White Feather Centerfire Match:

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Maverick223

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Welcome to the Centerfire Match for the month of May! This match dedicated to the rifleman known as White Feather (Carlos Hathcock II) to honor what would be his 70th birthday on May, 20th. It is open to any centerfire rifle. This match is meant to be challenging and educational, but most of all FUN. Hopefully it will get you out to the range and shooting your rifle. If you have one handy, make sure an bring a friend too.


->Iron sights and non-magnified optics and red dots. Shot at 25yds.*
->Scopes and other magnified sighting devices. Shot at 100yds.

*Note the change in distance for the non-magnified division.

There are Three Rifle Classes in the magnified division (only one for the non-magnified division):
->Unlimited/Benchrest Rifles (highly modified/custom rifles, machine rests, heavy rifles (over 20lbs), very high magnification optics [over 20x] may be used).
->Target Rifles (modified rifles, rests, heavy rifles (over 10lbs), high magnification optics- over 10x [with an upper limit of 20x] may be used).
->Sporting Rifles (Includes All Non-Target Class Autoloaders, Bolt Actions, Single Shots, Pumps, & Lever Rifles). Rests/sandbags/bipods are not permitted in this class, but shooting sticks (either the crossed or walking stick variety) are allowed. Use of a sling is encouraged. Shoots may be taken from any position. Rests/Sandbags/bipods are not permitted in this class.


25 Yd. (Irons) Target: See image in the link below. Scale to 100% on standard 8.5x11in. paper. The objective is to fire five shots at the eye within the scope tube. The target is scored as 1pt for any hit on the outer ring, 2 for the next in, 3 for the one inside that one, 4 for the inner white ring, and 5 for the innermost ring (including hits on the scope tube). Xs are awarded for any hit completely within the tube, for a maximum available score of 25-5X.

100 Yd. (Optics) Target: Same as above.


When you are satisfied you've done your best post/attach (or shoot me a PM) a photo or scan of your target with as much of the following information as possible: Forum name (or name you want posted in the results), Rifle, make, model, vintage (if known), Sights/Optics (with magnification if applicable), Ammo (or load, if you care to divulge your secret recipe), Position, Distance, Conditions (in/outdoors, wind, temperature...). Multiple submissions are allowed (in same or different class with same or different rifles).

Self-scoring is encouraged and appreciated. All submissions due before May 32nd. ;)
 

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Wish I could get out and shoot this one before I work on my rifle! I did the Go, No-Go, Field headspace test on the Savage Model 10 Tactical .223 that has been so accurate but won't feed from the magazine and found that it passes the Field, but won't pass the No-Go gauge. The barrel isn't set far enough into the receiver for any rounds to pass into the chamber without getting caught up on the side of the barrel about 1/16" off the chamber!

The previous owner had this rifle re-barreled and may have done it himself. Whoever did it didn't do it right. It isn't unsafe, but not correct either and in spite of the superb accuracy, I need it to feed reliably from the magazine as well.

Going to move it back to where it passes the Go but not the No-Go and see if that cures the feed problem. Hopefully it won't screw up the accuracy too badly. I will, probably, have to re-adjust the load or at least the bullet seating depth to bring it back on. Oh well, I just can't leave well enough alone - :cuss:

BTW Maverick, I really like this target. It'll give me something to shoot for (pun intended) after I get the headspace corrected. :D

Jim
 
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Rifles and their loads are hard to predict, but one would think that the only thing that should need a little tweak is the bullet seat depth. Hope it works out and you're up and running (and feeding from the magazine) soon. Then you can start threading the eye. ;)
 
Well, I got my own headspace gauges and the Savage barrel wrench in yesterday. With a lot of trepidation, I put the barreled action in the padded vise and loosened the barrel lock nut. Put the "GO" gauge in the chamber with the bolt closed as per Savage's barrel change instructions and screwed the barrel in until the "GO" gauge was just snug in the chamber. Tightened the locknut and tested with the "NO-GO" gauge. Properly, the bolt closed on the GO and would not close on the NO-GO. As I mentioned in the earlier post, I was really worried that it would mess up the superb accuracy I was getting out of it.

I needn't have worried. Even hollow point ammo now feeds properly from the magazine as I actually moved the barrel back over a 32nd of an inch.

Took it to the range this morning to re-zero the scope as I had to remove it in order to use the barrel wrench. It shot 6" high and 4" left at 25 yards. I zeroed it to dead center at 25 yards set the turret knobs to zero and fired a 5 shot group at one of the Hathcock targets. Dang! It's no longer broke! As you can see, there are 5 shots dead center eyeball! You can cover that group with the base of a Hornady #3120 .312 diameter flat base spire point bullet. Too bad that wasn't at 100 yards or nobody would beat that score. :evil:

Using the Strelok APP on my tablet, and using 25 yards as the Zero distance, I set the shooting distance to 100 yards and had Strelok calculate the scope setting. It told me to set the elevation -17.9 clicks so I dropped 17 and set the horizontal crosshair right under the blue circle. Fired 5 and got a group you can cover with a dime.

Maverick, I didn't change a thing on the load. In fact I zeroed the rifle and shot the match with some of the ammo I made up for last month's match and seating depth is exactly to the book length. If anything, the groups are tighter with the barrel set back to it's proper length than they were before and they were absolutely super before.

Class, Unlimited/Target
Rifle Savage Model 10 Tactical, 24" heavy barrel (Shilen) in a Choate "Ultimate Sniper" stock, front bipod, rear adjustable monopod.
Caliber .223/5.56
Ammo Handloads - 69 grain PRVI Partizan BTHP Match bullet over 25.5 grains of Alliant Reloader #15
Distance 100 yards (indoors)
Optics, BSA Tactical Mil-Dot 8-24 X 44 set to 24 power
Score: 25-4X

Jim
 

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Thanks sixgunner,
It was fun actually being able to work on my own rifle after I finally decided that I was going to fix the headspace problem as according to the gauges, it was getting awful close to the unsafe range even if it did produce very good accuracy. I was, however somewhat worried that if I did change the barrel seating in the receiver, it was gonna mess up the best shooting rifle I've ever owned.

I guess I needn't have worried. I believe I could have turned in a better 100 yard group than that, but I'll take it, considering how much coffee I had before hitting the range and how nervous I was before (and after) I found out I had actually fixed the problem and, wonder of wonders, actually improved the accuracy a bit. I didn't really think that was possible.
 
Ks,That looks VERY good.I`ll try to get one up Monday.I`m still experimenting with my 218.Today,I think I got too far off the lands, plus,I got so heavy,there were ejector marks on the fired brass.Cutting back on the powder.First time I`ve had pressure signs.
 
KSCCHTrainer, those are some very impressive groups. That said, and correct me if I'm wrong, but I think it's 25-4X because one of the shots landed a glancing blow on the scope tube. Either way, still a very good target. Glad she's still producing good groups for you...with the same load no less.

:)
 
KSCCHTrainer, those are some very impressive groups. That said, and correct me if I'm wrong, but I think it's 25-4X because one of the shots landed a glancing blow on the scope tube. Either way, still a very good target. Glad she's still producing good groups for you...with the same load no less.

:)
Thanks, and you're right on the scoring Mav, I misread the rules and thought the glancing blow meant on the outside not inside of the scope tube. I corrected my entry.

Was thinking about having the barrel threaded for a suppressor, but I think I'll just buy one rather than possibly messing this one up. It turns out that with the right tools it's a simple 20 minute job to change barrels on the Savage actions. I can even change calibers (within reason) by changing the bolt and barrel, or if the base diameter of the cartridges are the same, just changing the barrel.

I may pick up another used model 10 to experiment with.

Jim
 
I wouldn't worry about messing up the bbl as long as you have a decent gunsmith doing the work. Just make sure that (s)he doesn't mess with the crown (or most anything else for that matter).

:)
 
I wouldn't worry about messing up the bbl as long as you have a decent gunsmith doing the work. Just make sure that (s)he doesn't mess with the crown (or most anything else for that matter).
:)

That pretty much leaves this barrel out then as it has a recessed flat target crown. In order to thread it for a can, the crown would have to be re-cut. Think I'll find another barreled action on the surplus market and have that one set up for the suppressor. This one's one of those "one in a million" shooters that is probably best left as it is right now.

Even at 25 yards, I still can't get over that one group! I'm going to have to see if I can repeat it just to prove to myself that it wasn't an accident.

Jim
 
Very nice shooting KSCCHTrainer. Here's the best I was able to get today before I had to leave for work. Unlimited/non-magnified-Bushmaster 16" AR-15 w/BSA red dot shot of a front rest/rear bag at 25 yds.

c6139f49.jpg

25e2729f.jpg
 
That pretty much leaves this barrel out then as it has a recessed flat target crown. In order to thread it for a can, the crown would have to be re-cut. Think I'll find another barreled action on the surplus market and have that one set up for the suppressor. This one's one of those "one in a million" shooters that is probably best left as it is right now.
Perhaps i'm missing something (all my threaded bbls came from the bbl manufacturer that way), but I don't see why that would matter unless the profile is svelte (thus making it a poor choice for hanging a heavy suppressor off of in the first place).

That having been said, you already have quite a good shooter so I can understand not wanting to mess with most anything.

:)
 
Made it to the range yesterday, and shot some rimfire at this target, but kept screwing them up. *rolleyes*

But I also shot this target a couple of times with my light AR15 carbine, which has an A2 upper with standard aperture and post sights, 16" light barrel. Very plain-jane rifle:

DPMSandDeltonAR15build4.jpg

The only thing not in that picture is a Magpul MOE pistol grip to replace the A2 grip. Reduces distractions on the trigger hand.

Anyway. Shot two targets at 25 yards, crossed-leg seated position, and the first one, I got 24-3X:

May2012thrcenterfire001.jpg

Decided to see if I could better that a bit, and got 25-3X:

May2012thrcenterfire002.jpg

I was shooting a factory load, Federal Classic 55gr FMJBT.

Hopefully, I will get out again to try more with the rimfire so I can screw it up less, and perhaps get some rounds loaded up to shoot it with the .243 - something more similar to what White Feather actually used in his SE Asian escapades.
 
Sixgunner455,
What's the rifling twist on that AR? If it's 1:9 as a lot of the carbine length ones are, try shooting some of the 62 or 69 grain bullets through it. I'll bet your groups will tighten up, even with the light barrel. 1:9 just doesn't seem to stabilize the 55 grain and lighter bullets well. I'm finding you need a 1:12 or 1:14 for the light bullets but they don't like the stock 55 grain FMJ Ball ammo very well. What the heck, everything's a compromise these days anyway and 1:9 twist will shoot passably with the 55's and WAY better with the 69's and back to just passable with the 75 grain bullets. For 75 and heavier, 1:8 or 1:7 works better. Too bad it's not possible to make a barrel with an infinitely adjustable rifling rate that would open up a whole new ballgame for us reloaders - :evil:

I just found a new barrel to play with for my Savage Model 10 Tactical. Getting a 26" fluted, stainless .223 barrel off a Savage precision varmint rifle. It's a 1:9. May have time this month to re-shoot the match with this barrel and see if I can produce similar results to what I turned in earlier with the same 69 grain load I used out of the 24" for the match.

Jim
 
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Yeah, it's a 1:9. I'm not offended by the groups, though - I usually just use this thing in shoot houses and so forth, and it's plenty accurate for that kind of thing.

I'll throw some other bullets through it, especially after I get some heavier ones. I put some 50gr SP with a very plain vanilla 4895 load through it once, and the groups were, as you say, not terribly good.
 
Sam, perhaps I'm missing something, but I didn't see where anyone mentioned velocity (or charge weight) for their loading. Either way, I think it's best to mention that such data (if included) is only for informational purposes only. Everyone who chooses to handload should safely work up their own loads as prescribed by a recognized loading database/manual, anyone who suggests otherwise (without a disclaimer) is in violation of the forum rules and regulations.

That having been said, I'm shooting for 4k+ fps (with a 65gr V-Max) in the ole 6mmRem....speed kills (at least when it comes to barrel life). :p
 
All right guys, I bought a different barrel for my super shooter (Savage Model 10 Tactical, left hand .223 in the Choate stock.) A guy over on Savageshooters.com offered up a 26" fluted, stainless steel heavy varmint profile barrel off a Savage model 12BVV which I believe is the "precision varmint" model, for $80 shipped. It's a small shank barrel so it fit the model 10 receiver just fine. FedEx delivered the barrel about 9:30 this morning and by 10 I had it installed and headspaced. I just love the Savage barrel mounting system, it's so easy to swap one out as long as they are the same caliber, all you need is a good action vise, the proper barrel nut wrench and a set of headspace gauges in the caliber you are dealing with.

Got done before the indoor range opened up at 11 so I grabbed 100 rounds of my hand loaded match ammo - PrviPartizan 69 grain boat tail hollow point bullet, 25.5 grains of Alliant Reloader-15 (right from their webpage - it's the only load listed for the 69 grain match bullet in .223). It proved to be really-really accurate with this rifle using the original 24" barrel so I hoped there wouldn't be much change with this one. There wasn't, though, of course, the point of impact wasn't right on at first and I needed to tweak the scope a bit at 100 yards. It had been set at 25 to make sure it was on the paper and it was about 3" high at 100 but the windage was right on centerline.

After a couple of tweaks to bring it on, I fired a 5 round group which printed pretty much center bull so I stapled a "white feather" target to a target and ran it back out to 100 yards. I like this barrel with the listed load - 25-5X and not even close to nicking the scope edge.

Sight in target - first group - 3 rounds 3" high, 2nd group 4 rounds 1" high and final group 5 rounds just slightly low of center - close enough for government work.

Distance 100 yards indoors
Rifle Savage model 10 Tactical, .223, 36" model 12 stainless fluted varmint barrel
Class, unlimited target - front bipod, rear monopod, optics 8-24 BSA Tactical set to 24 power.

Jim
 

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Yeah, and I got it for only $80 including shipping! Looks a bit out of place on a blued receiver, but, coming off a model 12BVS precision varmint rifle, it actually shoots better than the one that was originally on mine. Gonna have the blued one threaded for the can and put it in the closet with thread protectors on both ends and a coat of break free collector's protectant on it until it's needed again.

Jim
 
I'd call that a pretty fair deal. As far as the SS finish goes a little guncoat or the like will fix that right up.

:)
 
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