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Winchester M12

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing and Repairs' started by Red Cent, Oct 3, 2012.

  1. Red Cent

    Red Cent Well-Known Member

    Got the 20" riot gun from the back of the safe a couple of days ago. The committee that established the rules for the game called Wild Bunch has declared the M12 legal.

    I use a 93/97 import for the game, so no big hurry. And you can use M97s. Got a couple of those.

    I discovered that (1) the tip of the firing pin was broke and (2) the little wire springs that holds tension on the rocker arm that releases the slide to cycle were crumbling. Don't have the tools to reproduce the fp but a two inch safety pin produces two lengths of spring of exactly the same diameter and more than enough length. I will order 4 springs with the fp but I want to practice. Besides, I bet those springs do not come with instructions.

    I am somewhat stumped on (1) how do they stay in the groove in the rocker and (2) do I have to take out the hammer and elevator/carrier to install the springs? The grooves show no sign of any staking. Did they have super glue back in the 20s? :)

    Anybody had any experience with the slide relese rocker arm?
  2. Jim K

    Jim K Well-Known Member

    That "rocker" is called the action slide lock and those springs were staked in even though they might not look it. I think you have to take the carrier and hammer out, but it has been a long time so I might be wrong. If you do, just don't forget that the carrier pivot has left hand threads.

  3. Red Cent

    Red Cent Well-Known Member

    Did not know that. Thanks.

    The rocker has to slide into a hole from the side. I cannot see anyway to manipulate the springs to get them in.

    I looked at those grooves with a magnifying glass trying detect staking marks. No biggy. I would have staked them anyway. Seems to me that the springs/wire is a chintzy way to do this.
  4. a5werkes

    a5werkes Well-Known Member

    Remove the Hammer.
    Remove the Trigger (watch out for small spring).

    The Action Slide Lock can then be lifted up and out of a slot in the side of the trigger guard. The springs engage the lowest lug on the hammer.

    The springs were staked in. Pry them out to replace the old ones.

    Restake the pivot screw in 2 different places during re-assembly.

  5. Red Cent

    Red Cent Well-Known Member

    A5werkes, I will go back in the shop and look but the rocker/slide lock bar came out horizontally with a screw in the hole you show blank. The wire springs were crumbling and practically dropped out of the slots.
  6. Red Cent

    Red Cent Well-Known Member

    Below the hammer spring is a hole. The surrounding metal is solid. Halfway down the rocker arm is an allen screw type head (regular screwdriver slotted) that fits into this hole. Inserting the trigger assembly into the receiver retains the rocker arm.

    Attached Files:

  7. Red Cent

    Red Cent Well-Known Member

    Different camera. I guess everyone knows to click on the image and click on the next one for a really big one.

    Attached Files:

  8. Red Cent

    Red Cent Well-Known Member

    Something just caught my eye. There are holes in the end of the slots. And those little wires are bent on the end to fit in the holes as they fit the slots.
    This could be fun.
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2012
  9. Red Cent

    Red Cent Well-Known Member

    A5werkes, do both wire/springs go under the lug on the hammer?
  10. a5werkes

    a5werkes Well-Known Member

    There is a "lug" on the lower left side of the hammer.....the lug slides between the action lock spring limbs, so one spring is above the lug, one spring arm is below the lug.
  11. Red Cent

    Red Cent Well-Known Member

    OK. Thats easy.

    Now how in the heck do you remove the hammer/hammer spring? Any instructions I find will only go to the shell feed arm removal. Any further you have to show proof your are gunsmith.

    The right lug on the hammer prevents relieving pressure off the hammer. The strut with the spring is too long to remove from hole. Removing the strut pin could be the answer. Looks to be more of a bear than removing the hammer pin. On second thought, the hammer could be clamped to retain strut and thumbed back to replace pin. Either way, goggles are in order.

    Which way do I go A5werkes? Really appreciate your help.
  12. Red Cent

    Red Cent Well-Known Member

    Well, I removed the hammer. I took the hammer pin out. It was the easiest way to remove it. I may pay for that. You have to remove the pin under some good pressure from the hammer spring. The strut is too long to compress the spring and lift out of a recess/hole. The hammer has a travel block that stops the hammer's forward travel. Inside the action this would not be needed. I will figure out a press of sorts to re-install the hammer.
    A5werkes said to remove the trigger and I thought he was wrong. Huhuh. the trigger assembly is a puzzle of sorts that requires certain pieces to be put in place in a sequence. After you dis-assemble the trigger group it comes together in the brain.
    Still easier than a 97, but it could be made simpler.
    A5werkes, has anyone sprung the arm another way?

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