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Wood stock maintenance.

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing and Repairs' started by odysseus, Jan 9, 2006.

  1. odysseus

    odysseus Well-Known Member

    Have a fairly new wood stock on a springy m1a, and want to know what are some of the best ways/products I should be using to put a protective layer and keep it looking good.

    I read somewhere about minwax. Not sure if this is good or not.

    Right now it is fairly raw feeling, smooth and stained, but seems like it would be a sponge.
  2. odysseus

    odysseus Well-Known Member

    bumping in hope...:eek:
  3. R.H. Lee

    R.H. Lee Well-Known Member

  4. Car Knocker

    Car Knocker Well-Known Member

    Might give Springfield a call and ask what would be compatible with the existing finish.
  5. birddog

    birddog Well-Known Member

    I'd personally stay away from the water seal products. How is the finish? If it's rough, and not extremely laquered you can always give it a hand rubbed linseed oil finish. Won't harm any preexisting finishes and will protect any exposed wood without giving a high gloss. If it's already heavily laquered, Minwax makes a "wipe on" satin polyurethane which is lightly applied with a rag like more traditional oil finishes. This will shine it up without giving it a gaudy, thick coating.

    Good luck.
  6. Larry Ashcraft

    Larry Ashcraft Moderator Staff Member

    Johnson's Paste Wax, especially on the end grain. Thompson's Water Seal is basically paraffin in mineral spirits. Works OK for a little while on stuff outdoors, but that's about it.
  7. odysseus

    odysseus Well-Known Member

    Thanks all. I called up SA and asked them what they recommend, and they recommended boiled linseed oil, applied a couple times a year. I was wondering if people had better ideas or not.
  8. 30Cal

    30Cal Well-Known Member

    BLO will need to be reapplied occasionally. I'm not a big believer in it's sealing abilities as far as moisture is concerned. Basically, if the outer portions of the wood are saturated with oil, it will bead water, but not really form a hard barrier. It works OK and is easy to touch up.

    I prefer tung oil as it creates a permenant barrier--also easy to touch up. You don't have to apply it regularly either. Stands up to extreme heat (sustained rapidfire) whereas linseed oil will smoke if you shoot hard and fast enough. The only drawback is that it tends to build gloss as you add more layers (0000 steel wool, or better yet, a synthetic abrasive pad can be used after it dries to knock it down). FWIW, the military used tung oil on most M1 and all M14 stocks.


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