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Old January 20, 2013, 03:24 PM   #4751
Love2Shoot2
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ID assistance

Good afternoon,
I hope you can help me with some info on this gun.

a- .38
b- 6"
c- round
d- 6 shots
e- fixed
f- 252XX
g- D2034

This revolver also has a S marking with an arrow running through it on the frame under the cylinder crane. This marking is just below the D2034.
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Old January 20, 2013, 05:52 PM   #4752
Radagast
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Love2Shoot2:
G'day.
I'm going to assume your gun is S&W marked & not a Spanish copy. If the serial number (found on the butt) is 252xx, then it is a .38 Military & Police 2nd Model (Model of 1902) manufactured in 1902 or 1903 in the serial range 20976 to 33803, so 1902 seems morel likely. The barrel should be stamped ".38 S&W Special & U.S. Service CTG". There should be a S&W Monogram on the side plate. D2034 is an assembly number used to track parts in the factory. It has no meaning after the gun was completed.
Be aware that this model lack an internal hammer block, if dropped it could fire, so leave the chamber under the hammer empty.
Be aware that the steel is not heat treated and only lead standard velocity ammunition should be shot through it, no PlusP, +P, +P+, jacketed or semi jacketed ammo. Guns from that era are known for bulged barrels or cylinders. Standard velocity lead rounds should be fine.

If the serial number is D2034 and the assembly number is 252xx, then its a Model 10 .38 Military & Police manufactured in 1968.
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Old January 20, 2013, 06:45 PM   #4753
Love2Shoot2
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Is there any significance to the S lying on its side with an arrow thru it?
The serial of 252XX that I gave is on both the frontstrap of the grip frame and on the cylinder face.
I'm on the road and can't really post pics right now.
Thanks for your assistance.

Last edited by Love2Shoot2; January 20, 2013 at 06:54 PM.
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Old January 20, 2013, 06:57 PM   #4754
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Is there any significance to the S lying on its side with an arrow thru it?
My error. Double post...

Last edited by Love2Shoot2; January 20, 2013 at 07:07 PM. Reason: My error. Double post.
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Old January 20, 2013, 07:23 PM   #4755
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Probably not - a lot of S&W revolvers are marked with an S on the crane and an arrow on the cylinder.
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Old January 20, 2013, 09:30 PM   #4756
Love2Shoot2
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Thanks for the assistance. This is very helpful and convenient.
I don't even know where to start with reference books to get the help that you gave in just a little while.
Thanks again.
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Old January 21, 2013, 01:39 AM   #4757
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I just picked up a .38 special and was wondering if anyone had some details on it.

a) 38 special
b) 4"
c) square
d) 6
e) fixed half moon front sight
f) V 5155xx
g) none

thanks

Thomas
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Old January 21, 2013, 06:06 PM   #4758
Radagast
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DUNEZRUNNER:
You have a either a Victory Model, issued to US forces during WWII, or a .38/200 British Service Revolver issued to the British Commonwealth.
Either way it should be be a 1943 build, possibly early 1944.
If a BSR then it was originally chambered in .38 S&W and has had the chambers bored out to chamber .38 Special. Look for a step, or a tapered section at the rear of the chamber.
If an original Victory model then it has some collectors value if it has the original finish. Ifa converted BSR value is minimal and it should only be shot with standard pressure lead loads - the chambers will be oversize and split or bulged brass is possible.
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Old January 21, 2013, 09:27 PM   #4759
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"DUNEZRUNNER:
You have a either a Victory Model, issued to US forces during WWII, or a .38/200 British Service Revolver issued to the British Commonwealth.
Either way it should be be a 1943 build, possibly early 1944.
If a BSR then it was originally chambered in .38 S&W and has had the chambers bored out to chamber .38 Special. Look for a step, or a tapered section at the rear of the chamber.
If an original Victory model then it has some collectors value if it has the original finish. Ifa converted BSR value is minimal and it should only be shot with standard pressure lead loads - the chambers will be oversize and split or bulged brass is possible."


Thanks for the info. Does it help that on the barrel it says 38 S&W Special CTG (or C kind of worn off).

thanks again

Thomas
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Old January 22, 2013, 01:25 AM   #4760
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Need to date a 31-1

I'm trying to find out what year a S&W 31-1 was built.
The serial number is H118xx. Can anyone help me out?
Thanks in advance.
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Old January 22, 2013, 01:41 AM   #4761
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.32 S&W Long
3"
Round
6
Fixed
H118xx
31-1

Thanks in advance.
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Old January 22, 2013, 04:06 AM   #4762
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DUNEZRUNNER:
That is the correct caliber marking for a Victory Model. 99% sure you have a VM. Some of the surplused BSRs were converted by Parker Hale, a quality British firm and would probably have been remarked, the vast majority were converted on the cheap, often with a cut down barrel, cheap chrome plating and fake stag grips.

Jaymo:
Your Model 31-1 .32 Regulation Police was made in 1969 or 1970. Serial range for those years was H1 to H30001, so 1969 seems likely.
The -1 in the model number refers to a change from the small .32 caliber I frame to the slightly larger .38 Caliber J frame. Modern aftermarket grips should fit. Technically the grip should be a square butt as the Model 30 was basically identical except for having a round butt, the Model 31 being the square butt version. S&W were not always consistent with their markings and I've read more than one report of a round butt model 31-1.
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Old January 22, 2013, 11:06 AM   #4763
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S&w 25-9

Dear Sir,I can't find much about this one. All I know is I love this revolver. Hope you can shed some light on this one.

A. 45C
B. 4"
C. Round butt
D. 6 shot
E. Adjustable
F. BFS1152
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSCN3922.JPG (164.0 KB, 4 views)
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Old January 22, 2013, 05:54 PM   #4764
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SmokeyD:
Your Model 25-9 / 1955 Model .45 Target Heavy Barrel was manufactured in 1990. The dual finish is referred to as 'Pinto'. The Model 25 was discontinued in 1991, they may have been using up spare parts, or it may have been a special order.
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Old January 22, 2013, 07:26 PM   #4765
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SmokeyD, that's some serious N-Frame goodness.

Radagast, thanks. I did not realize the J-Frame was made in a square butt version.
After looking at the Alatmont grip website, I see the difference.
That's the roundest square butt I've ever seen.
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Old January 23, 2013, 04:13 AM   #4766
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Radagast: thanks very much for the quick reply and information. What was special with the 9 model?
Jaymo: I absolutely love this revolver. And it shoots like a breeze. Triggeraction is superb and 'dry'. Although it's very accurate (<2.5" groups, offhand) I would like target style grips one day and see what more I can come up with.
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Old January 23, 2013, 06:27 AM   #4767
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SmokeyD:
The -9 refers to a design change, in this case a longer cylinder stop notch.
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Old January 23, 2013, 11:46 AM   #4768
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Just came across this old S&W 38 cal and have no idea what model it is or production age. I'm trying to get the owner to find the s/n, but don't have it yet.

Could you guys at least I'd what it is and whether it's worth $250 or maybe more/less?

EDIT - s/n 5098XX

EDIT 2 - looks like a 5th model DA 38 S&W. Still digging on the s/n info. Any help with that or value would be appreciated!!



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Last edited by dhcustomwork; January 23, 2013 at 03:45 PM.
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Old January 23, 2013, 05:48 PM   #4769
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Looking at 2 revolvers. One is supposedly a K22 (X9 64166). The other is supposedly a K38 (48222).

I was not able to verify the numbers from the guns so they may be incorrect. Do these numbers reference to anything??

Thanks guys...

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Old January 24, 2013, 03:28 AM   #4770
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dhcustomwork:
You are looking at a .38 Double Action 4th Model manufactured between 1895 & 1909. This can be narrowed down a bit, Guns in the 535xxx range shipped in 1908; American Express Co. purchased guns between 1892 & 1905, with the highest known serial number being in the 486xxx range, so 1905 to 1908 seems likely.
Keep in mind that S&W didn't start advertising their guns as suitable for smokeless powder until 1906 or 1908, depending on the reference. I would treat it as a black powder or black powder substitute gun. Modern ammo is loaded to the same pressure levels as black powder, but has a much faster pressure spike, so shooting it will wear out the gun much more quickly.

As for value, I would rate it as very good condition (40% of original finish) based on the oics. In 2006 the Standard Catalog of S&W gave a value of $200 for VGC, $250 for excellent (90% of original finish). This assumes safe mechanical working order.
Keep in mind there are no new parts available - the building at the factory with the spares burnt down many years ago. There are few gunsmiths willing to work on them either.
If you want a nice collectors piece then hang out for an unfired boxed piece - with over half a million made there are plenty out there. If you simply want a cheap conversation piece or occasional shooter then go for it.
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Old January 24, 2013, 03:31 AM   #4771
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68lemans462:
It sounds like the owner is quoting assembly numbers, stamped under the cylinder yoke. The serial number will be found on the bottom of the grip frame, if they have oversize target stocks then they will need to be removed to see the serial number.
Early K22s & K38s will have a K prefix to the serial number, eg: K123456.
Assembly numbers were used to track parts in the factory and have no meaning after the gun was assembled.
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Old January 26, 2013, 11:59 AM   #4772
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Hello

I am hoping that you could help me to identify this S&W firearm:

a) caliber = 38 special ctg
b) bbl length (from cylinder to muzzle) = 6.5"
c) grips shape (round or square) = round
d) number of shots/cylinder bores = 6
e) type of sights. = fixed
f) serial number, and if there is a letter in front of or anywhere near the s/n on the bottom of the grip = 160669
g) Model number if it is under the crane.

Thank you for any assistance.
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Old January 26, 2013, 01:20 PM   #4773
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I purchased (but have not yet received) an M&P K-Frame with the following stamped under the crane:

PP
62601 4

The serial is C3229XX.
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Old January 27, 2013, 12:47 AM   #4774
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Wardenwolf:1954 to 1956. Serial range for those years was C277555 to C402923.

Billinr:
You have a .38 Military & Police Model of 1905 3rd Change manufactured between 1909 & 1915 in the serial range 146900 to 241703. If I had to guesstimate a year it would be 1910.
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Old January 27, 2013, 02:00 AM   #4775
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So, was 1969 or 1970 a good year for a J frame?
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