Quantcast
Shield rear site - THR
THR  

Go Back   THR > Tools and Technologies > Handguns: Autoloaders

Welcome to THR
You are currently viewing our site as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions, articles and access our other FREE features. By joining our free community you will have, access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!


If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please visit the help section.

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old August 8, 2014, 10:37 PM   #1
Big20
Member
 
 
Join Date: May 3, 2011
Location: Sherrodsville, Ohio
Posts: 105
Shield rear site

I see tritium sites are now available for the Shield. Sources (can't pinpoint one at the moment but maybe I saw it in the manual) say not to remove the rear site screw. Before I invest in new sites I'd like to know it won't take a trip to the gunsmith to put them on. What happens when you remove the rear site screw?
Now, if someone would produce a real safety lever for the Shield.......
Big20 is offline  
Old August 8, 2014, 11:07 PM   #2
UpperAtmosphere
Member
 
 
Join Date: October 23, 2013
Location: Central IL
Posts: 106
What happens? You start swearing up a storm because you STILL can't budge the rear sight.

If I have to change the sights on a Shield again, I'm paying somebody.
UpperAtmosphere is offline  
Old August 8, 2014, 11:48 PM   #3
futurerider103
Member
 
 
Join Date: December 1, 2013
Location: Springfield Missouri
Posts: 108
Yea mine was very tight to the point I almost said screw it I'll just aim to the right right
futurerider103 is offline  
Old August 9, 2014, 09:46 AM   #4
JohnnyBravo
Member
 
 
Join Date: August 17, 2007
Posts: 78
You are supposed to adjust the point of aim with the front sight on the Shield.

The rear sight is not adjustable.
__________________
Hope, is not a strategy.
JohnnyBravo is offline  
Old August 9, 2014, 12:04 PM   #5
UpperAtmosphere
Member
 
 
Join Date: October 23, 2013
Location: Central IL
Posts: 106
It isn't adjustable and is barely removable.

Big20, if you're going to change the sight, make sure you have the right gear - a sight pusher, a good bench vice, good set of drift punches, mallet, and something to heat the rear sight (as there's loctite to deal with).

The kicker - there are some really important parts under the rear sight, at least one of which is made of plastic and will melt/deform if you go nuts heating things. And if you bork up the sight pusher, you get to worry about breaking the tritium vials if you apply too much Gentle Persuasion.

It's not impossible by any means, but I like to work on my own guns and the Shield was easily the least pleasant sight change I've performed.
UpperAtmosphere is offline  
Old August 9, 2014, 12:19 PM   #6
Theohazard
Member
 
 
Join Date: February 24, 2014
Location: Western WA
Posts: 452
I removed my rear sight with just a hammer, punch, and a block of wood to set the slide on (oh, and another set of hands to hold the slide steady). I need a vise for sure.
__________________
0331: "Accuracy by volume."
Theohazard is offline  
Old August 9, 2014, 02:07 PM   #7
RustyShackelford
Member
 
 
Join Date: April 27, 2006
Posts: 2,384
Trijicon HDs....

I'm big on Trijicon HDs(orange-green).
www.Trijicon.com
They fit the M&P Shield pistols.
You can also now get Shields without the thumb safety, .

I'd check www.brownells.com for gunsmith parts.
For gun sights, Id just take it to a pro gunsmith or S&W armorer. I'm not much of a DIYer but I'm learning a few tips & tricks.

Rusty
__________________
If you don't practice, you don't deserve to win.

Andre Agassi
RustyShackelford is online now  
Old August 9, 2014, 08:00 PM   #8
kcofohio
Member
 
 
Join Date: December 16, 2013
Location: NW Ohio
Posts: 391
If the Shield is made similar to the M&P full size, the sights have to be drifted out from left to right. There is a slight taper on the dovetail, opening up toward the right. This is if you are looking at the rear of the slide.

Beware, there may be spring loaded parts under the rear sight of the Shield.
__________________
The room fell so quiet, you could hear a primer drop!
kcofohio is offline  
Old August 9, 2014, 08:20 PM   #9
dab102999
Member
 
 
Join Date: May 4, 2012
Posts: 448
Use a solder iron on the screw. It is lock tight in and will almost break a hex wrench if you don't heat it. Make sure to get a good solid placement of punch. There is a slight lip at bottom of sight and if you put your punch on that it will chip. Use a vise with soft jaws or wrap your slide with leather. You will not be able to hold your slide and try and drive sight out. Once broke loose do not just drive it out. Under the sight is a spring and your firing pin block. Nothing real complicated just not a 5 minute job. While you have it off you tube trigger job on a shield and it will show you how to clean up and make your trigger pull crisp also.
dab102999 is offline  
Old August 10, 2014, 12:31 AM   #10
Capt. Ct.
Member
 
 
Join Date: May 30, 2011
Location: SE Connecticut
Posts: 221
I wanted to move the front sight a little. Ended up going to a smith with a bigger hammer.
Capt. Ct. is offline  
Old August 10, 2014, 09:54 AM   #11
thefish
Member
 
 
Join Date: February 17, 2012
Location: Colorado
Posts: 454
I tried a soldering iron on the set screw but it didn't work. So I resorted to light heating with a propane torch. Screw came out no problem. But it does take some banging to get the rear sight out with a hammer and a punch. Make sure you have th slide protected and in a vice and push the correct way because its dovetail in a taper. There are some good YouTube videos out there on removal.
thefish is offline  
Old August 10, 2014, 01:57 PM   #12
kcofohio
Member
 
 
Join Date: December 16, 2013
Location: NW Ohio
Posts: 391
Here is a video from Apex Tactical showing a kit installation. At the about 15 minute mark, is where they start showing the removal of the rear sight. Very informative.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GuVe...ature=youtu.be
__________________
The room fell so quiet, you could hear a primer drop!
kcofohio is offline  
Old August 10, 2014, 02:32 PM   #13
Theohazard
Member
 
 
Join Date: February 24, 2014
Location: Western WA
Posts: 452
^^^ That's the video I used when I installed my Apex kit. Excellent video.
__________________
0331: "Accuracy by volume."
Theohazard is offline  
Old August 10, 2014, 03:26 PM   #14
JWH321
Member
 
 
Join Date: January 9, 2014
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 161
I screwed mine down real tight in a sight pusher then too a little brass hammer and tapped it a bit as I continued to turn the pusher. It finally moved, but it was really tight. I didn't put it back together that tight. Once it starts to move, it loosen up quickly and there is little chance of you launching the striker block spring or its little flat plate. Even if you do, all that will happen is that you will get to crawl around on your hands and knees for a half hour finding it (it may take you less time).
JWH321 is offline  
Old August 11, 2014, 11:34 AM   #15
340PD
Member
 
 
Join Date: February 18, 2007
Location: central MN
Posts: 937
For a $20 dollar bill my smith installed my set of Ameriglo i-Dots front and rear. Much easier than banging with my hammer, punch, and my vise.

340PD is offline  
Old August 11, 2014, 11:23 PM   #16
thefish
Member
 
 
Join Date: February 17, 2012
Location: Colorado
Posts: 454
If your worried about launching the spring, pit it in a ziplock first. But if you go slow, your chances of launching it are pretty slim if you know it's there.

This video is pretty good

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=WHYjhKgemnY
thefish is offline  
Old August 11, 2014, 11:27 PM   #17
thefish
Member
 
 
Join Date: February 17, 2012
Location: Colorado
Posts: 454
While your in there if you polish a few parts it does wonders for the trigger.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=DdhVsHea85I

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=6_r-J4zAJHo
thefish is offline  
Old August 13, 2014, 02:18 PM   #18
wally
Member
 
 
Join Date: January 2, 2004
Location: Houston, Tx
Posts: 10,531
I didn't have any trouble replacing the rear sights on my Shield 9 & 40 with Trijicon RMR optics. Just remove the set screw and be careful of the little spring for the firing pin block underneath. If in remember correctly you need to drive it out from right to left as there is a slight taper to the dovetail, which is why drifting the front is the recommend way to adjust windage if needed.

Quote:
So I resorted to light heating with a propane torch
You should remove the striker assembly first, as you can easily melt the plastic retainer the holds the striker spring.
__________________
Your commitment to Freedom and Liberty is measured by your tolerance for others doing things you disapprove. NRA Endowment Member, 2007.
NRA Patron Member, 2009. NRA Benefactor Member 2012. There is no "race" or "ethnicity" section on the NRA membership application, unlike the Federal 4473 form to purchase a firearm!
wally is offline  
Old August 14, 2014, 10:52 AM   #19
340PD
Member
 
 
Join Date: February 18, 2007
Location: central MN
Posts: 937
Go over to the S&W forums and search "rear sight removal Shield". Horror stories ten times to one easy removal. The rear sight on the Shield is famous in it's difficulty to remove without proper tools and no, a hammer and punch does not seem to be one of them.
340PD is offline  
Old August 16, 2014, 04:54 PM   #20
HeavyDuty
Member
 
 
Join Date: April 21, 2007
Location: Northeast IL
Posts: 272
My first Shield was a 40, and the rear sight was so tight that I finally took a hacksaw to it since I was replacing it with night sights anyway. Took all of ten minutes to saw straight down to within about 0.050" of the bottom of the dovetail, and then the sight tapped right out. This was after trying Kroil, freezing and beating the hell out of it with a steel punch.

I've replaced sights on several M&Ps, but nothing has been as tight as that Shield rear! To make matters worse, I just picked up a second Shield yesterday and have to do it all over again.

I would *not* try removing a tight M&P sight using just a pusher. I have a MGW pusher, and it is not a good choice for moving stock M&P sights until you knock them loose with a punch.
HeavyDuty is offline  
Old September 2, 2014, 12:54 AM   #21
HeavyDuty
Member
 
 
Join Date: April 21, 2007
Location: Northeast IL
Posts: 272
I should post an update - the new Shield sights popped right out with no drama, beating or foul language. Probably the easiest of all my M&P sights to remove so far.

It must be all the clean living...
HeavyDuty is offline  
Old September 2, 2014, 08:53 AM   #22
viking499
Member
 
 
Join Date: February 9, 2007
Posts: 3,016
HeavyDuty, did you go right to left or left to right?
viking499 is offline  
Old September 3, 2014, 09:21 AM   #23
340PD
Member
 
 
Join Date: February 18, 2007
Location: central MN
Posts: 937
Left to right.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WHYjhKgemnY
340PD is offline  
Old September 4, 2014, 01:14 PM   #24
HeavyDuty
Member
 
 
Join Date: April 21, 2007
Location: Northeast IL
Posts: 272
What he said. Left to right from the perspective of the shooter.
HeavyDuty is offline  
Reply


Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:37 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
vBulletin Optimisation by vB Optimise.
This site, its contents, Shooting Reviews, and its contents are Copyright (c) 2010-2013 Firearms Forum, Inc.
IMPORTANT DISCLAIMER
Although The High Road has attempted to provide accurate information on the forum, The High Road assumes no responsibility for the accuracy of the information. All information is provided "as is" with all faults without warranty of any kind, either express or implied. Neither The High Road nor any of its directors, members, managers, employees, agents, vendors, or suppliers will be liable for any direct, indirect, general, bodily injury, compensatory, special, punitive, consequential, or incidental damages including, without limitation, lost profits or revenues, costs of replacement goods, loss or damage to data arising out of the use or inability to use this forum or any services associated with this forum, or damages from the use of or reliance on the information present on this forum, even if you have been advised of the possibility of such damages.