Quantcast
How to do the World's best oil finish - Page 5 - THR
THR  

Go Back   THR > Ammunition, Gear, and Firearm Help > Gunsmithing and Repairs

Welcome to THR
You are currently viewing our site as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions, articles and access our other FREE features. By joining our free community you will have, access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!


If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please visit the help section.

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old October 10, 2008, 09:04 AM   #101
CZguy
Member
 
 
Join Date: March 25, 2004
Location: Missouri
Posts: 3,971
Plus 1, on this thread being a sticky.
__________________
"When one engine fails on a twin-engine airplane you always have
enough power left to get you to the scene of the crash."

"Directions to heaven. Turn right, and go straight."
CZguy is offline  
Old October 21, 2008, 09:18 PM   #102
jwmtx
Member
 
 
Join Date: May 11, 2008
Posts: 30
OK DFaris

Now how about some lessons on cold bluing. I'm about finishd with the stock and am going to tackle the Cold Blueing next. Any do's or don'ts? Most people have told me "DON'T", but I'm thick headed.
Mine is a 1974 39A and it looked like when they bought it they just tossed it into the bed of a pickup and let it bounce around for years. I rescued it a few months ago. I'll post pictures if I ever finish. James
jwmtx is offline  
Old October 21, 2008, 09:42 PM   #103
KINGMAX
Member
 
 
Join Date: May 11, 2006
Location: Central North Carolina
Posts: 1,166
Natchez solution

NATCHEZ SOLUTION
P. O. BOX 16235
JACKSON MS 39236


This stuff is the BEST that I have ever used.


It was developed for taking care of antique furniture. It will give you the best hand rubbed finish. When I finished a gun cabinet, it was all I used to seal the wood with. I put about 5 coats on it to seal it up, then twice a year to maintain the finish. No problems.
__________________
Μολὼν λαβέ
KINGMAX is offline  
Old October 21, 2008, 10:58 PM   #104
dfariswheel
Member
 
 
Join Date: December 26, 2002
Posts: 5,973
"Truth" is, cold blues are best for touch up of small scratches.

While results do vary, most attempts to cold blue a large area wind up a smoky, streaked blue-gray color.
Some people have fairly good luck, but even then, the cold blue looks nothing like a hot salts or rust blue job, and the finish is not durable at all.
It rubs off and rusts easily, and tends to turn brown rather quickly.

Best advice if you try it is to spend a LOT of time and effort degreasing the metal.
One of the best of the cold blues is Brownell's Oxpho-Blue.
dfariswheel is offline  
Old October 25, 2008, 06:24 PM   #105
tractorshaft
member
 
 
Join Date: July 10, 2007
Location: The Socialist State of Connecticut
Posts: 106
Minwax "Gunstock" color stain! New!

While looking around in the Woodstain department of our local big box home supply store (Home Depot) I noticed something of interest to this thread. I saw that MinWax had released a "New Color" of their oil based stain in "Gunstock". I bought a pint of it and am going to re-do my Marlin 336 Walnut with it. I will post results and review of stain, so far it looks very promising and looks to be the right shade of "Red".
Thanks for all the info.

Minwax "Gunstock 231"


Here is the link to it;

http://www.minwax.com/products/wood_...fm?tn=4#Colors

Jerry
tractorshaft is offline  
Old October 25, 2008, 07:00 PM   #106
dfariswheel
Member
 
 
Join Date: December 26, 2002
Posts: 5,973
Apparently, that's just a oil-based stain, not the oil finish.

They used to make a "Walnut" version of the Antique Oil Finish, but then stopped and make only the clear.
dfariswheel is offline  
Old October 26, 2008, 11:43 AM   #107
tractorshaft
member
 
 
Join Date: July 10, 2007
Location: The Socialist State of Connecticut
Posts: 106
Correct

Correct, if you desire to darken or "Redden" your gunstock prior to application of the Antique Oil this "Stain" is suggested as an alternative to the Brownells products (Stains) mentioned earlier in the thread. The post was not to suggest an alternative for the Antique Oil application or technique. I am going to apply a little of the Minwax "Gunstock" colored stain to my 336C stock and then a judicious application of Antique oil per this thread. Will this work alright? I read every post in the thread and just dont think that my stock will be dark enough with the Antique oil alone, I found it at our local Tru-Value hardware store for $11.00 a jug.Thanks for sharing this technique with everyone, I am a intermediate woodworker and have used many materials and techniques up to and including "French Polish" with Shellac. I was very glad to read about the durability and ease of application for the Minwax product. Gunstocks have always been either too shiny or not durable enough. This may solve a long standing problem for me. Many thanks!

Enjoy

Jerry
tractorshaft is offline  
Old October 26, 2008, 12:09 PM   #108
battlecry
Member
 
 
Join Date: September 14, 2006
Posts: 108
On the topic of oil stains vs dyes, don't underestimate the penetrating power of alcohol dyes. They can go right through and color dry Tung, Formby's Tung Oil Finish, or shellac coatings. I've even used it to color Marlin's Mar-Coat.
battlecry is offline  
Old October 26, 2008, 07:09 PM   #109
dfariswheel
Member
 
 
Join Date: December 26, 2002
Posts: 5,973
Probably the best looking gun stocks of all were the old British and American "Red" walnut finishes.

Winchester used it up to 1964, and it's not much seen these days (along with real walnut).

When I wanted a red walnut stock I used Tandy water-based leather dyes.
These can be blended and thinned to light tints to prevent dyeing too dark.
Best, these don't sit on the surface of the wood like many oil-based stains.
The water-alcohol based dyes sink right in.
Since they do soak in deeper, rubbing the oil finish with steel wool doesn't tend to rub the stain right back off.

If you have some clean, non-oil soaked walnut, the Minwax stain should do great.
dfariswheel is offline  
Old November 10, 2008, 03:31 PM   #110
Dymoke
Member
 
 
Join Date: February 27, 2007
Location: Higgins Lk, MI
Posts: 6
Minwax finish

Aways back someone said not to buy a large can of Minwax Oil Finish because it would go bad ::
What happens to it and how would we tell is bad?
I'm doing a Riverside Single Barrow now has two coats on it and I'm liking it already.
Got my MOF at Ace $10.49
Dymoke is offline  
Old November 10, 2008, 07:01 PM   #111
dfariswheel
Member
 
 
Join Date: December 26, 2002
Posts: 5,973
Like a lot of wood products and paints, Minwax will "gel" in the can when it gets old.

It literally thickens into a jelly-like substance and smells different than the good stuff.

When using Minwax, wipe the can cap and threads really well before sealing.
The can WILL glue itself on the can, and even Vise-grips often won't get it loose.
I hated it when I needed to apply a coat, I could hear it sloshing around in the can.... still good, and couldn't get the %^@#*% CAP OFF.
dfariswheel is offline  
Old November 10, 2008, 10:16 PM   #112
battlecry
Member
 
 
Join Date: September 14, 2006
Posts: 108
One trick that works well with some varnishes, finishes, and paints is to use butane from a lighter refill can to purge the air from the can before sealing it. The butane is heavier than air and will displace the air in contact with the finish, preventing oxidation.
battlecry is offline  
Old November 10, 2008, 11:53 PM   #113
dfariswheel
Member
 
 
Join Date: December 26, 2002
Posts: 5,973
Neat trick.
dfariswheel is offline  
Old March 19, 2009, 08:55 PM   #114
Loggerlee
Member
 
 
Join Date: November 4, 2008
Posts: 111
Back to the top,I was glad to have seen this,so I subscribed,still not sticky I see....
Loggerlee is offline  
Old May 11, 2009, 08:33 PM   #115
Oro
Member
 
 
Join Date: September 22, 2007
Location: WA state
Posts: 3,496
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfariswheel
Probably the best looking gun stocks of all were the old British and American "Red" walnut finishes.

Winchester used it up to 1964, and it's not much seen these days (along with real walnut).

When I wanted a red walnut stock I used Tandy water-based leather dyes.
These can be blended and thinned to light tints to prevent dyeing too dark.
dfarishwheel, do you have a recipe or some guidance on creating this stain? I am going to refinish a 1956 Model 94 and would like to have an alcohol/water soluble stain like this to treat the wood before I start oiling.

rcmodel helpfully pointed me to some commercial products, but with hazardous shipping and such they were running to $30 delivered, which seemed a bit steep when I know I can re-create them at home with simple chemicals or commercial dyes if someone had a "homebrew" recipe.

Would the "Chestnut Ridge" stain possibly be close match as an alternative?

http://www.chestnutridge.com/images/inv/MAWAL1.asp
Oro is offline  
Old May 12, 2009, 07:44 AM   #116
1911Tuner
Moderator
 
 
Join Date: May 22, 2003
Location: Lexington,North Carolina...or thereabouts
Posts: 18,133
re:

Good information here. So much so that it's been requested to go sticky...so I'm gonna put a dab of glue on it.
__________________

Speak kindly to me, beloved master. Revel in my unconditional love, and give me every minute that you can spare, for my time with you is short.

-your faithful dog-


[/i]
http://www.collierescue.net/available/index.html


To see my real work:

http://www.pets-r-great.org:80/magaz...ue1/cover.html
1911Tuner is offline  
Old May 13, 2009, 08:10 PM   #117
dfariswheel
Member
 
 
Join Date: December 26, 2002
Posts: 5,973
Thanks 'Tuner.
Saves me from having to search every time someone asks about the technique.
dfariswheel is offline  
Old May 13, 2009, 11:32 PM   #118
JoshRushing
Member
 
 
Join Date: May 11, 2009
Location: SW Missouri, USA
Posts: 11
Anybody use Arrow wood finish?
JoshRushing is offline  
Old July 1, 2009, 12:18 PM   #119
PiercePaul
Member
 
 
Join Date: July 1, 2009
Location: Northwest Missouri
Posts: 2
Just a FYI: For the winchester red cast in color of there finish there is a product out on the market to day called Herter's French Red, it comes as a stain or wood filler. Brownell's has it.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=1...ku/Walnut_8_oz
__________________
Paul Pierce
Northwest Missouri
PiercePaul is offline  
Old February 11, 2010, 08:30 AM   #120
<SLV>
Member
 
 
Join Date: March 16, 2007
Location: La Crosse, WI
Posts: 352
I can't find "Minwax Antique Oil Finish." Checked Wal-Mart, Home Depot, and True Value. Even the Signboard for Minwax products at Home Depot did not list this product.

Can anyone recommend a retail establishment that would carry this finish?

Also, will this finish work on Birch? Or am I better off with a poly?
<SLV> is offline  
Old February 11, 2010, 09:13 AM   #121
<SLV>
Member
 
 
Join Date: March 16, 2007
Location: La Crosse, WI
Posts: 352
... I called Menards and they said that they have it!
<SLV> is offline  
Old February 11, 2010, 11:40 AM   #122
CZguy
Member
 
 
Join Date: March 25, 2004
Location: Missouri
Posts: 3,971
Quote:
Also, will this finish work on Birch? Or am I better off with a poly?
I used it on Walnut and Beechwood and am pleased with the results. The photo shows a Remington 34 with walnut over a BRNO #1 with Beechwood.

__________________
"When one engine fails on a twin-engine airplane you always have
enough power left to get you to the scene of the crash."

"Directions to heaven. Turn right, and go straight."
CZguy is offline  
Old February 11, 2010, 04:39 PM   #123
rondog
Member
 
 
Join Date: June 29, 2007
Location: Commurado
Posts: 5,890
Just wanted to throw this out there, great stuff! http://www.fairtrimmers.com/

__________________
Ever feel like the world's a tuxedo, and you're a pair of brown shoes?
- George Gobel
rondog is offline  
Old February 16, 2010, 07:25 AM   #124
twice barrel
Member
 
 
Join Date: October 21, 2009
Posts: 226
Think I'll give the Minwax stuff a try next go around but I just used the last of some Watco Danish Oil finish I had on hand to rejuvinate the stock on an old 22 rifle I picked up last week. My guess is the two products are very similar.

Regards,

TB
twice barrel is offline  
Old March 12, 2010, 09:18 PM   #125
Higgy
Member
 
 
Join Date: December 15, 2007
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 54
I use the Watco oil, but only because I've never tried the Minwax. The Watco takes a long time to harden imho, but the endresult is fabulous.
__________________
"Its been real swell, but the swelling's gone down." -Tank Girl
Higgy is offline  
Reply


Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:25 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
vBulletin Optimisation by vB Optimise.
This site, its contents, Shooting Reviews, and its contents are Copyright (c) 2010-2013 Firearms Forum, Inc.
IMPORTANT DISCLAIMER
Although The High Road has attempted to provide accurate information on the forum, The High Road assumes no responsibility for the accuracy of the information. All information is provided "as is" with all faults without warranty of any kind, either express or implied. Neither The High Road nor any of its directors, members, managers, employees, agents, vendors, or suppliers will be liable for any direct, indirect, general, bodily injury, compensatory, special, punitive, consequential, or incidental damages including, without limitation, lost profits or revenues, costs of replacement goods, loss or damage to data arising out of the use or inability to use this forum or any services associated with this forum, or damages from the use of or reliance on the information present on this forum, even if you have been advised of the possibility of such damages.