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Old March 14, 2013, 07:08 PM   #4026
dfariswheel
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Again, a thin coat of CLP Breakfree will penetrate into the pits and stop all rust.

Since the Rustoleum interacts with rust, it might interact with the bluing which is a form of rust and do some further damage.

Another product that absolutely WILL penetrate into the pits is Kroil, but CLP will do all that's needed.
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Old March 15, 2013, 08:11 AM   #4027
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dfaris
Thanks for the recommendation for using CLP. I don't have the Breakfree CLP and will purchase a bottle if necessary. I do have a new bottle of Tetra CLP and would like your opinion if this brand will work ok? Thanks for your help, Ron
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Old March 15, 2013, 01:01 PM   #4028
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PS---Rust-o-liem makes a rust reformer product that I have used extensively on my outside equipment. It goes on essentially clear and turns any rust black and converts it to an inactive state. I thought about using a pin and placing a very small drop into each rust spot. Any feed back on this idea?


In response to the rust reformer, DONOT APPLY TO BLUEING.
blueing is just a form of controlled rust or oxidation. I have used this product in the past for refinishing shotguns and it removes blueing faster than conventional rust. Just keep the gun oiled.
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Old March 15, 2013, 01:27 PM   #4029
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Thanks Redclay, I appreciate it, Ron
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Old March 17, 2013, 01:22 AM   #4030
Fast Frank
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Hey, nemo...

Look at this!

http://www.grizzlycustom.com/custom_...ite_scout.html
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Old March 17, 2013, 01:31 AM   #4031
Nematocyst
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^ That's what I'm talkin' about.

You can have the scope, Frank.
Just give me the Skinners.
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Old March 17, 2013, 08:03 AM   #4032
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I also prefer the "Lite" version, without the scope stuff. Saves you $400, too.


They both are neat.
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Old March 17, 2013, 08:23 AM   #4033
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Sweeeet! Now if I can get get the checkbook out of the wife's purse without her seeing me. 5 minutes should give me plenty of time to write that $1700 check.
Don't worry Honey, it's an investment and I know how much you like our investments!
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Old March 17, 2013, 11:03 AM   #4034
CB900F
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Fella's;

Sorry, that one doesn't appeal to me at all. For that kinda money, I'd get a TDS & mount the skinners on it. Think I'd save about a thousand bucks too.

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Old March 17, 2013, 12:28 PM   #4035
Fast Frank
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My blood isn't thick enough for that rifle, either.

But you gotta admit the wood, and the finish, and the attention to detail make it a custom rifle.

And it's VERY nice. I like the way that scope's mounted! No way there's any slop in that setup. The quick disconnects are nice too- Wanna use a scope? fine. Don't wanna use a scope? also cool.

Sure, a TDS with skinners would do the same job...

But I gotta give Grizzly credit- That's a nice rifle. And I'll bet 20 bucks right here and now that there's no squirrels coming in here saying anything nice about it at all. Any takers?
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Old March 17, 2013, 01:04 PM   #4036
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Oh, I agree that it's a pretty penny. I probably would just do a simple cut and crown, myself. And only down far enough to not require fooling with the mag tube, either.

And that's only If I were interested in cutting, which I'm not. Some days the full 24" feels a bit lanky, but it generally does not bother me.


But it's still cool. As Frank says, the fit and finish is top notch.
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Old March 17, 2013, 07:24 PM   #4037
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I'm just going to have to sell one of the Lear jets to get one of those Grizzly's.

I'll sell it at a good price. Now, come on, who needs a jet!?
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Old March 18, 2013, 01:44 AM   #4038
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So, has anybody gotten any trigger time lately?

I'm not shooting ANYTHING until I can get ammo. There's still literally no ammo available anywhere around here.
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Old March 18, 2013, 05:21 PM   #4039
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Very, very little. Just a few CBs here and there.

I didn't get to shoot very much as it was - before all this. Now, I have no idea when I can replenish my .22 ammo stock for anything approaching "normal" price.

Or even at any price. Most places have a 2 or 3 box limit, and I haven't seen a brick for sale locally since before the madness began.

These days, guns that can shoot shorts, longs and CBs are looking like the cat's meow. Of course, that includes our 39A.



Never thought I'd see the day where it was actually (much) easier to replace .38 special over .22lr. But here we are. Hope it gets better soon.
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Old March 24, 2013, 01:48 AM   #4040
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New member

I rescued an abused 1951 39a from the local gun shop today. It had been sitting there a while, and I finally decided it was going home with me. I think the shop owner was really glad to see it go... I am sure that it will be like a rescue puppy, I will end up with way more in it than it will ever be worth, and more than once will curse myself for getting it, but it will be mine, and deep down in my heart I will love it even when it pees on the carpet (and by that I mean fails to eject, breaks a 62 year old part, etc). My first gun was a marlin model 60, and I have since added a 795, a 25n, and a 336 to my marlin collection, so I am a bit of a marlin fan... it was only a matter of time before I added a 39a. Should make a great companion piece for my S&W model 18.

Anyway, this poor thing is beat. The bluing is worn, which is fine with me. But there are some scratches in the bluing on the receiver that I would like to fix. The scratches are light, you can't feel them with a finger nail. Any suggestions on touching those up without making them look worse? If there isn't a good way to do that, I will call them character

The two biggest flaws are that the butt stock has been broken multiple times, and fixed poorly. There are two cracks up near the tang that someone fixed with wood glue and didn't get aligned quite right, and then there is a chunk missing from where the swivel mount was to the butt plate. Someone filled the missing part with putty of some sort. It works, but it looks terrible, even by my very marginal standards. Where can I get a replacement? I would like a used original one, but these rifles seem to outlast their furniture, so there aren't any out there. How are the boyds stocks? Numrich only has the late model stocks and the straight non-pistol grip stocks. The fore end is in decent shape, and I could refinish it to match a replacement butt stock.

The other big flaw is that the magazine tube is beat up at the tip and loose. I will just replace that, that is pretty straight forward.

I took it out to ping a couple of steel plates this afternoon to check function. What a hoot! It is amazingly accurate using the basic sights, which I am usually an abysmal shot with. I will definitely add a receiver mounted peep sight. It failed to eject a few rounds when I didn't work the lever with enough authority, but that is probably just a function of a good cleaning and oiling, and learning what it likes from me. If it still does it after that, I will go chase the gremlin that is causing it.

Anyway, sorry for the long intro. I am happy to be joining the club If you have any suggestions on my questions above I would be grateful for your input, otherwise, see you around the clubhouse. I will get some pictures of it in its current sad state to post in the next couple days, then some more once it is rejuvenated.
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Old March 24, 2013, 07:13 AM   #4041
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That one needs HELP!

Gee, I don't know if there's much hope for the stock! But, the bluing is something that MAY be touched up with out showing. Maybe someone on here can advise you about it. I've been 'redoing' some older beat up rifles and shotguns for the last couple of years; but I don't think there's anything that you can do except replace the stock. Maybe someone here can give you some better advice. Good Luck!

Also, the ammo situation here in Idaho is worse than pitiful. I saw 2 boxes of .22 ammo on the Walmart shelf week-before-last. This week it was gone. Someone paid $13.97 EACH for 2 boxes of 50! In Boise last week, I saw only 2 boxes of .22 bullets in the Sportsman for $11.95 each. We're just have to start 'prodding' the manufactures to get the ammo out faster; and get it to the stores instead of 'others'.
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Old March 24, 2013, 07:54 AM   #4042
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Good luck, High Country. I'm new to the 39A as well although I was lucky enough to get an old, new one. I don't have any suggestions but I wish you well in your attempts to restore an otherwise abandoned gun to service. Best regards!
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Old March 24, 2013, 11:18 AM   #4043
high country
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Thanks guys. Yeah, there is definitely no saving the old stock. If is functional, but a new one is high on the priority list. I am on the prowl for something that will work without blowing any semblance of a budget on this rifle, so if anyone has any suggestions I would be very appreciative!

The ammo situation here is terrible too. I haven't seen a single box of LR in months in Western Colorado or Iowa (the two places I split my time between). I was shocked to see a good supply of 9mm in a walmart in Iowa a couple weeks ago, doubt that lasted long. I am running really low on .22 and large pistol primers for reloading .38, the two of which represent 95% of my shooting fun. I shudder to think what the prices are going to be once it does start trickling back in...
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Old March 24, 2013, 11:39 AM   #4044
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HC, you're a good person to rescue that poor little puppy. It just needs love and care and it'll be a treasure - as long as people from you on take proper care of it. Makes me sad to see beautiful guns abused. (And I'm seriously worried now about my own - they've been in storage for almost three years, out of my care by necessity - and I'm no longer confident of the caretakers capacity to care for them.)

That's a different story. To your query. I have only one thing to add as I have zero experience restoring stocks and bluing --- others here are far better at that than me. My little bit of advice is about this part.

Quote:
Originally Posted by High Country
It failed to eject a few rounds when I didn't work the lever with enough authority, but that is probably just a function of a good cleaning and oiling, and learning what it likes from me.
I've had the same issue with my newer one, and learned - here and on Marlin Owners - that you can't baby the lever. You have to crank it with authority - every time. Not with undue force, but in a way that reliably and quickly - not slowly like you might want to on a lazy August afternoon, but quickly - 'click - click! - in about a second.

Now that solved part of my issue, but it was clear the last couple of times I shot it that there were also other issues ... but again, mine is newer, yours is not. Unless you've got some worn parts (and we can help you determine that), yours won't suffer that problem.

Good luck with it. Be sure to take pics before, during and after. You'll kick yourself later if you don't.
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Old March 24, 2013, 12:58 PM   #4045
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Highcountry;

I'm doing the same kinda project. Mine's a 1964 that I've had reblued; there was really no other option. I was able to rescue the mag tube, but that was a bit of an adventure I can tell you that. The stocks however are absolutely deplorable and will be replaced. Which was a large reason for the total reblue. After all why have essentially new wood on beater metal? I'm in the market for replacement wood myself and here's what I've found: All kinds of "custom" people willing to sell you $$ stocks, which is not what I want. Finding either factory wood or somebody else's direct replacement wood is not easy. If I wanted to haunt Numrich's site 24/7 I maybe could buy, but I'd apparantly have to beat the 10,000 other people who also want the same wood. Other people (SWMBO) are of the opinion that I have other things to do which are more important, and I really can't argue either. Then there's some high & mighty type that will only sell to you by fax. He/they won't pick up the phone so you can discuss the questions of what you want vs what that shop has. I'm not buying a pig in a poke. So if you run across a civil source for replacement wood for a fair price, please let me know.

900F
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Old March 24, 2013, 04:26 PM   #4046
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^ Reading that, 900F, it seems to me there's a beautiful, lucrative niche there for someone with good woodworking skills to produce a bunch of inexpensive replacement stocks and fore ends out of good wood, but unfinished, so folks like you guys can pick them up and do the finishing work.

Surely there's people around who can do that.
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Old March 24, 2013, 04:53 PM   #4047
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I took a chance on a person on gunbroker and it turned out to be worse than the rather poor photography showed. Badly pitted lever, missing bluing, and some surface rust. I managed to get the rust off with some oil and 0000 steel wool, but am very disapointed with the whole deal since I paid way more than it was worth. I thought about spending the near $300 for rebluing, but am just going to relist it on gunbroker with actual GOOD photography [and at a loss]. So, whereas I am currently a member of the 39 Club, it won't be for long.

Last edited by Orion8472; March 24, 2013 at 05:08 PM.
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Old March 24, 2013, 04:58 PM   #4048
Fast Frank
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nemo
've had the same issue with my newer one, and learned - here and on Marlin Owners - that you can't baby the lever. You have to crank it with authority - every time. Not with undue force, but in a way that reliably and quickly - not slowly like you might want to on a lazy August afternoon, but quickly - 'click - click! - in about a second.
I would word that as Smooth, Continuous Stroke.

I think that lurching, stopping, or changing speeds during the stroke can upset some rifles.

Naturally, they are all individuals and some are more picky about this than others.

I shot a little video a few years back when we were discussing the different parts of the loading cycle. in that video I slowly passed a round through the rifle while discussing what was going on.

Watch this vid- my model 39 can feed REAL SLOW without jamming. (Click on the Pic to View the Vid)

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Old March 24, 2013, 05:09 PM   #4049
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Orion;

Please let me provide you with an option or two. Remember, I just had a couple of 39's reblued.

If you wish, contact Young's Gunsmithing in Tracy Montana. Phone is toll-free (877)736-5367. Dave can be a touch slow, but he's also very busy. In any case his work is quite good, meets my standards anyway, and is about 1/2 the number you just put up. That's provided you don't expect any other work, such as disassembly/reassembly, removing pits, etc. Dave will talk to you, at length.

Then there's Dennis Erhardt at the Frontier Gun Shop in Helena Montana (406)422-4533. Dennis will barely talk to you & it will not be at length. Dennis blued my custom LHB 6.5 Swede for, again, a price about half of what you mentioned. Dennis's work is internationaly known and respected. Since the Swede is a hunting gun, he blued it to exactly match the Zeiss scope & Talley rings, everything is one color. The same caveats apply of course, and get the quotes in writing since your almost certainly out of Montana, right? Outstanding work, but again just my opinion.

You might revisit the idea of reblue with that information.

900F
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Old March 24, 2013, 05:42 PM   #4050
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The price quoted also included taking out pitting. I'm just pretty bummed about it because the guy made it seem better than I actually got, and I wasn't wanting to spend a lot of money. If I got this looking good, it will cost more than some very nice 39m models that I've seen sell.
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