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Old November 22, 2007, 10:52 AM   #226
achildofthesky
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Looking for someone in NW Arkansas w/340 M&P to check out...

As the title says, I am looking for someone in NW Arkansas (Fayetteville/Springdale/Rogers/Bentonville area) with a 340 M&P especially w/ the ct sights. A brief search around here left a couple of the gun sales clerks saying "huh, what the hell is that". It would be very helpful to check one out and perhaps even shoot at a local range if you are inclined to make such an offer. I am looking at one for myself for general everyday carry and prefer to look at one before ordering from somewhere. Thanks in advance for any consideration.

Be safe

Patty
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Old November 22, 2007, 12:19 PM   #227
DAdams
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Nem I Knew ....

you would eventually come over to the darkside. That propensity for the 442 taken to the unlimited .357 mag level.

Quote:
After a bit more thought,
I've made a decision.

Yes, I would like an
M&P 340, please.

The middle image of
#221 cinched
a decision.

It's that black on black
centennial able to
eat .357 mag.

Um hmm.
Muuwwwahhhhaaa.

If someone told me I could only have one handgun, the M&P 340 would be it. There is nothing this revolver can't do. Conceals like a Centennial, very lightweight, full tilt boogie .357 down to the still potent yet widely available .38 spl. Trijicon night sites with the gutter big dot. Add the Hogue Mono (and I know you will) and this thing is just the nuts. Stainless cylinder which was the only weak link in the Sc/Ti series. Worth the 1.3 ounces IMO to get the full range of .357. I like the stealthy DLC coating. Durable and I don't have to worry about beating it around because that's why I bought it.
Why does it cost so much? Because it's worth it!

It is my go everywhere do anything hg. The only thing that could make it better would 6 rounds, and moonclip capable.





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Old November 23, 2007, 02:22 AM   #228
Nematocyst
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Quote:
That propensity for the 442 taken to the unlimited .357 mag level.
Yep. That's it in a hickory nut shell.

Nicely written, dude.

Bears repeating.

Quote:
If someone told me I could only have one handgun, the M&P 340 would be it. There is nothing this revolver can't do. Conceals like a Centennial, very lightweight, full tilt boogie .357 down to the still potent yet widely available .38 spl. Trijicon night sites with the gutter big dot. Add the Hogue Mono (and I know you will) and this thing is just the nuts. Stainless cylinder which was the only weak link in the Sc/Ti series. Worth the 1.3 ounces IMO to get the full range of .357. I like the stealthy DLC coating. Durable and I don't have to worry about beating it around because that's why I bought it.
So, four questions; feel free to tell me it's already been discussed,
and i'll go back and reread the archives
(haven't been as diligent as I should
as i've been pretty busy):
  • What proportion of the time do you shoot .38 spl in it?
  • Which rnd?
  • Does it handle a given .38 rnd the same as an x42?
  • How does the overall quality and workmanship compare with x42?
Nem, OEA (ostensibly experiencing assimilation)

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Old November 23, 2007, 12:35 PM   #229
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I've been eyeing the M&P 340, but for now I will stick with my tried and true mid-nineties 640-1.

The 640 handles recoil wonderfully, and the increased mass is not an issue with carry for me (6'3" 240lbs.). The gun does not print in my Desantis Nemasis holster. Plus, my 640 has the added benefit of all stainless construction and NO LOCK. I may add a XS Big Dot to the nose, which won't be a problem, as I allready swapped out the original front sight that wasn't machined to my liking. The trigger was tuned by a smith and is non-MIM BUTTAH! Plus the gun is absolutely gorgeous.

I'll still keep my options and mind open, however.
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Old November 23, 2007, 04:36 PM   #230
DAdams
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Dr. Nem A. Tocyst

What proportion of the time do you shoot .38 spl in it?
When I range it out I like to start with generic and inexpensive .38 spl. Usually four to five cylinders.
Then run a couple cylinders of SGD 135 gr 38 spl plus P (old standby).
Then maybe a few SGD .357 135 gr for short barrel.

Which rnd?
Right now it's loaded with the SGD 135 plus P for shorties.

Does it handle a given .38 rnd the same as an x42?
Virtually the same. Remember its a couple ounces lighter. So there might be some felt difference....but with the Hogue Monogrip it is extremely controlable and just plain fun to shoot. The big dot in the gutter is dead on.
The rest is point and shoot like all the J Frames.

How does the overall quality and workmanship compare with x42?
Yes and again I like the low maintenance of the DLC coating. SS (I assume) protective "L" shaped piece of metal on the forward corner of the top strap to take the flame cutting. I suspect it is sacrificial and may eventually need to be replaced. I like the full lug look better than the typical J Frame.

Here are some test jh, (thanks again) did that are worth pulling together.

Chrono test--M&P340, Factory Speer 357-GDSB135gr.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I found a box of the Speer 357 Short Barrel 135gr cartridges. They went over the chrono this afternoon in the 340:

Velocity: 1031.5
High: 1061.1
Low: 969.9
SD: 35.8
MAD: 24.6
ES: 91.2
FWIW: Here's (one of) the 340 results again for the Speer 38+P Short Barrel 135gr.

Velocity: 895.3
High: 916.0
Low: 849.8
SD: 26.3
MAD: 18.2
ES: 66.2
Both rounds shoot to about the same point of aim, and both are very accurate--I've shot groups as small as 3/8"w x 1/2" h (4/5, 1 CF) at 10-15 yards (from a benchrest, using the laser).

Buffalo Bore range results:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Item 20A--"Heavy 38 SPL+P:" 158-gr. LSWHC, factory spec'd at 1000 fps/M.E. 351 ft. lbs.

five shots, from an S&W 640 (2 & 1/8" barrel): Average, 1020.3 fps.
five shots, from an S&W 340 (1 & 7/8" barrel): Average, 1010.0 fps.

Item 20B--"Heavy 38 SPL+P:" 125-gr. L.V. Gold Dot, factory spec'd at 1050 fps/M.E. 306 ft.lb.

five shots from the 640: Average, 1061.1 fps

I've had trouble believe the 20A advertised specs--but they are true. Further, compared to the hand-loaded .38Spl+P loads I've been doing with various powders and a 140-gr. lead bullet, the recoil is NOT harder, and the shot has a noticable "38 Spl" feel to it. Anyone well acclimated to a 340 should have little trouble shooting it.

It is a bit stiffer recoil than the Speer 38+P 135-gr GDSB load, but it's also 'shorter'--and given the historical performance of the 38 Spl 158-gr. LSWC-HC round, it should be a super defensive load in 642s-442s.

As far as the 20B load goes, that's a real light load in comparison. I didn't bother to shoot it in the 340, I feel that confident about its managability.

What's that link to the gelatin tests someone has done?

Jim H.
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Old November 23, 2007, 04:58 PM   #231
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My local gun shop got a M&P 340 (non-CT) in. They are asking $699 for it. I really like the gun, and the way it feels. My problem is that I am having difficulty justifying $700+ bucks for a five shot snub.

Is $699 a good price or just average?
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Old November 23, 2007, 05:26 PM   #232
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That's the best price I've seen

since the last price increase. However, it may be about comparable to the Randy's Hunting Center Pricing--which would be about the same IF your FFL dealer has a reasonable transfer fee and does NOT have to collect State Sales Tax.

I paid $679 + ST last May to a local dealer; another may have had it at that time for about $20.00 less. But right now, I'd consider $700.00 a good price. It appears S&W is doing a good job to maximize their profit by keeping below the demand even when they do their production runs....

As for the 5-shot issue--well, I'd disregard that factor--it's simply the way J-frames are made for .35x dia. cartridges. Unless the new Federal 327 cartridge gets going--and it could get a BIG boost if S&W does a j-frame in 327--I doubt we will see a 6-shot j-frame. Personally, I would probably buy such a package--but a lot of cartridge geeks are nay-saying it as a solution in search of a problem.

Unverified rumor mongering says that Ruger may do a lightweight SP-101. Given Ruger's market niche, I would suspect that means a beefy aluminum frame, not a Scandium frame. And, even if the rumor is accurate, who knows when?

DAdams--thanks for bringing that chrono data forward again.

Jim H.

Last edited by jfh; November 23, 2007 at 11:48 PM. Reason: missing word
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Old November 23, 2007, 06:00 PM   #233
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Lightsped

Randy's Hunting Center

http://www.gunsamerica.com/Search.htm?OG=0&T=Randy's&AS=60&LF=0&OI=0&LTID=CL,A,AB,BA&AC=&MN=0&MX=0&F=

Here is there price on a M&P 340. $669. w/o CT.
If you did a money order save the 2 or 3% of CC.
Whatever your transfer price is? Depending on your state and the local tax??

My local gun shop sells them all day long for $699. OTD. I have seen them higher but not lower recently.

I paid $802 with S&W logo CT 405s, and that included 3% for the convenience of a credit card sale. My local transfer was $25.

I had a hard time paying $895 for a Seecamp .380 but I'm glad I did. The price of Ti, and stainless just keeps going up. Think of it as an investment.
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Old November 23, 2007, 11:34 PM   #234
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Dr DA

Thanks for your thorough response. Very informative ... and enticing.

If I may press a point a bit more ...

Quote:
Which rnd?
Right now it's loaded with the SGD 135 plus P for shorties.
Just to make sure, that's in .38 spl, right? As opposed to .357 mag?

So, am I correct to infer that you usually carry .38 spl in it?

If so, that tells me something about this hg and your use of it: it'll eat .357 mag (call it a plus in a pinch), and has a more robust front sight, and is built more substantially, but it will shoot .38 spl just as well as a .38 spl, so why not normally carry .38 spl in it for added control on double taps.

Right?

As I've written here and elsewhere, my ONLY concern about the 340 - FAR more than the cost - is that for a guy my size (read substantially on the smaller side of average), the .357 mag may have such a counterclockwise twist on that first shot of a single-handed double tap that I can't get it back in control quickly enough for #2.

Of course, the best way to evaluate that concern is to find one and shoot it.

Dr. Nem
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Old November 24, 2007, 11:04 PM   #235
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Try Before you Buy

Quote:
Of course, the best way to evaluate that concern is to find one and shoot it.
I think you need to do that. Yep. You do. Uh huh, yessiree, fo sho, mmm hhh, right on, do dat, getterdun, and I couldn't agree more.
Dr. Have you heard of the malady analysis paralysis? BTW that would be .38 spl plus P SGD. Oh, and I just really like the look of a full lugged barrel.
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Old November 26, 2007, 10:00 PM   #236
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I got to handle a M&P 340 this weekend. It's interesting how differently that steel cylinder makes the revolver feel versus my pet 340PD with its titanium wheel. Mine wears the CT 405s and has the light-collecting front sight, so I really like the look of the CT-equipped M&P 340. I might have to get one as a back up to the 340PD.

Nice thread. Keep it going ....
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Old November 27, 2007, 04:02 AM   #237
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Quote:
Dr. Have you heard of the malady analysis paralysis?
"Dr. Have" sounds like a replacement on PBS for "Dr. Who".
But instead of a phone booth, he flies an M&P 340.

If I had $700 eating a hole in my pocket,
I'd go buy an M&P 340 tomorrow.

As it is, I don't have December rent yet,
let alone enough to get my truck repaired,
so it'll have to wait.

It's on my list, though.

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Old December 1, 2007, 08:25 AM   #238
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Thumbs up Range Report

Sorry - shot my new 340 for the first time yesterday. I posted this as new thread yesterday - deleted it, and here it is:

[EDIT: jfh already answered this - thanks jfh!] I'll ask the question first before anybody gets bored with my range report - this gun has the black SW finish, and I've heard of people messing it up cleaning it. Does anyone with an S&W in the black finish have any tips or warnings about cleaning it. One thing I read was no ammonia - problem is none of the cleaners list their ingredients, that I can find... I haven't looked into it much, just thought I'd throw it out there... Thanks.

For those unfamiliar, this is one of those "scandium" alloy DAO 12oz .357s that everyone claims hurts like crazy to shoot. I don't know what they are talking about, I couldn't feel my hand at all after the first shot - I mean at all!!

No, I'm exaggerating. Started with UMC .38s, peppy recoil, of course, but very controllable, and not at all "painful." Moved up to WWB Personal Protection +Ps, I think they are 125gr. Um, very snappy! But again, I really found it manageable, although it would be a stretch to call it fun. The fireball on both was pretty large - I have to say that firing one of these in a dark room would be the END of night vision for a while.

I didn't buy any .357s, and I didn't want to buy a whole box at the range, but when I told the guy at the counter what I was shooting, he gave me a wry smile and gave me three free rounds of .357 - CCI Blazers, nothing fancy. I asked him if he'd shot one of these before in .357, and he said "yeah, why do you think I'm smiling!"

I've read a few other reviews about instant blood - be it split webbing by your thumb, or the recoil taking a bite out of your trigger finger, etc. So, I was gripping this mother like nobody's business! I think I was so afraid of it, the actual recoil was much more tolerable than I expected. I've read some macho reviews that said it didn't hurt at all. Dang - those guys must have some tough paws! I absolutely found it painful, but not drop-the-gun-and-run-to-mama painful, and there wasn't any blood.

I would not want to shoot a box of 50, but for actual SD carry, I might consider .357. The adrenaline dump in a real SD situation would take care of any recoil issues, I think. Especially in a snub, I think extensively practicing with your carry load is not that necessary. I will either put a glove on or 99% of the time shoot .38 in practice (ending with maybe 10 of carry load). I feel perfectly safe carrying +P for SD (or frankly even a good .38), but I might look into some of the new .357 designed for these guns - supposedly lower flash, and lighter load.

So I ran through 50 .38s, 40 +Ps (the other 10 are for a load plus reload), and 3 .357s (oh, and a box and a half through my Glock27).

My hand felt fine when I left. But, as some of the numbness started to wear off... it did start to ache pretty good. Even as I type this, it's pretty dang sore! This doesn't worry me a bit carrying it for SD, but I can tell you, if I had to shoot it right now I might shed a few tears - it's sore!

The stock grips expose a strip of the frame in the back, so that doesn't help AT ALL. I pocket carry this gun, so I don't want to add much bulk, but I'm thinking of adding LG-405 Crimson Trace grips, which have some extra backstrap padding. Won't render big loads comfortable, but should ease it up somewhat.

All in all, I love it - it's the perfect pocket gun for me. I doubt the 3oz. savings was worth the extra couple hundred bucks (there are non-scandium models that are cheaper and weigh 15oz instead of 12), but I don't turn over guns, I'll pass this down to my kids in 30 years, so I wasn't too worried about a few bucks. Thanks for reading - if you have any questions or comments - hit me!

FranklyTodd, with a FranklySore hand...

PS: I noticed the first post asked for a bit more info - this was on sale for $629 which included a box of silvertips and a speedloader. I carry in a Nemesis pocket holster.
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Old December 1, 2007, 10:15 AM   #239
achildofthesky
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Sold a gun yesterday to finance one soon...

I am still looking to check one out here in the NW Arkansas area. No one has one in stock and most go HUH? when I mention one. Mebbe when I visit the family in Austin in a month or so I can look one over. Thanks for the report and enjoy.
Patty
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Old December 1, 2007, 04:43 PM   #240
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Hey Guys...

I'm a big fan of a wheelgun for concealed carry. Pocket carry is what I usually choose with the light dress here in warm Arizona.

My 442-1 is my EDC in a Kramer pocket holster, and it's served me well going on 3 years now. The trigger has really smoothed out with the nice predictable stack that S&W's get to eventually. I was thinking about a new finish and Big Dot XS sight install on my 442. S&W wants $180 + shipping for a re-finish and the sight install isn't cheap either.

So I stumbled across this M&P 340 and I'm enamored to say the least. May just have to pick one up.

I often practice with and always carry Gold Dot 135gr +P in my 442 with no problem, so I'd just have to see how much more painful they are in the 340.

Question - Once somebody has mastered the Gold Dot +P's and wants to step up the power a bit, but not to a full-house .357, is the next natural step the .357 Gold Dots SB load, or maybe the Buffalo Bore 20B .38 +P?

Grips - Are the smaller factory grips by Hogue? Are these similar to the Uncle Mikes boot grips on X42's that leave the pinky hanging? I can see where the larger Hogue on DAdams 340 would make shooting more pleasant, but I worry about being able to pocket carry in cargo shorts and denim shorts...

Thanks!
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Old December 2, 2007, 08:08 PM   #241
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Lightbulb Reminder: S&W Branded CT

Saw somebody else talking about adding CT. Remember, if you care, you can order CT LG-405 with the S&W logo from Smith for $259! Same exact grip. It has an "air channel" on the backstrap, so I think it will help w/recoil alot. Still a short grip though - no "pinky" home. Better for CCW, but probably not as nice to shoot as Hogue full size.

Later - Todd
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Old December 2, 2007, 08:30 PM   #242
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Quandry

Or maybe it is just going to take some getting accustomed to again.

I have been shooting my M&P 340 with the Hogue Monogrip and wow, what a great combo. Comfort and control with everything from spl to .357.
The Hogues do have a tendancy to show though in shallow pockets.

I put the CT 405s back on went to the range and did terribly. I need to calibrate the CTs that's one issue, and I didn't have my adjustment tool with me. The big thing though was the comfort and control, big difference. Now I need to decide to leave the CTs on and get accustomed to them again or bail on them and put the Hogues back on. I'm undecided yet. I really would like to try a pair of 305s and see how they work.

Being a point and shoot gun I shouldn't really anguish over it, but it wasn't nearly as much fun ranging the 340 without the Hogues. Sure wish they made them 3/8ths shorter, that's about all it would take.

Welcome Dollar and Frankly.

Quote:
Question - Once somebody has mastered the Gold Dot +P's and wants to step up the power a bit, but not to a full-house .357, is the next natural step the .357 Gold Dots SB load, or maybe the Buffalo Bore 20B .38 +P?
I found the SGD .357 for SB not much more "aggressive" on recoil than the plus P. You may want to try the BB also. Maybe even the BB standard pressure which chrono out like the "commercial" PP. See Jim's tests back a few pages, he has tested them all.

On cleaning the DLC exterior S&W recommends Hoppes Elite. No ammonia.
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Old December 3, 2007, 09:40 AM   #243
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Unhappy Post-shooting concerns

Three concerns have come up, and I'd appreciate anyone's thoughts. After first shooting (range report a few posts back) I of course went to clean it (Hoppes Elite foaming cleaner, and Elite oil).

Problems I noticed:

1) where the extractor rod hits the tapered part of the frame, which compresses the rod and lets the cylinder snap in, there's a bright silver line where the black finish is gone - is that normal??? the line even jags up a bit like the extractor star hit the finish at some point. In my first session, I probably loaded 20 times maybe?

2) trigger binding - it fired fine, but as I was cleaning it I dry-fired it a few times, and the trigger bound up, not on pulling it, but letting it off, it wouldn't spring all the way back out (reset). If I let it spring out fast it was fine, but I was doing it all slow motion to get a feel for the action, and it kept hanging up on the way out. I sprayed "break free" liberally in the action, and it seems ok now (still a hitch, but doesn't stop), but that kind of suprised me that it would hang up.

3) "crud ring" is a term I've heard applied to the line that can develop when shooting .38s in a .357 length cylinder, but I've also heard with proper maintenance, it's completely avoidable. Well, I cleaned and scrubbed for a VERY long time, and there's still a noticeable ring in the cylinder bore. Is this normal??

Thanks if anyone can help... If this thing has to go back - that would be disappointing...

FranklyTodd

ps: someone above asked about the stock grips, they are Hogue "bantams." Someone else asked about price, mine was $629 which included a box of Winchester Silvertips and an HKS speedloader. If anyone wants the shop name/number, PM me.
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Old December 3, 2007, 11:33 AM   #244
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FranklyTodd's Three Concerns--

1. "...where the extractor rod hits the tapered part of the frame, which compresses the rod and lets the cylinder snap in, there's a bright silver line where the black finish is gone...."

That line is normal, it exists on virtually any revolver. I suspect a bit better fitting or materials selection for the rod contact could help--but it exists on any (S&W) revolver.

2. "...trigger binding...."

The trigger bind you speak of could be caused by the cylinder binding, not by action binding. Does the cylinder spin freely? If not, remove it from the rod and clean both the shaft and the cylinder rod bore thoroughly. LIGHTLY oil the shaft. Some of us who shoot reloads in this gun have had the same problem--read back through the posts.

3. "...I cleaned and scrubbed for a VERY long time, and there's still a noticeable ring in the cylinder bore...."

I have trouble getting all that out, too. If you haven't done so, use a hard nylon or bronze bore .40 S&W brush, and chuck it into your battery-powered hand drill. If you choose to do this, run slowly and keep the brush moving.

CLP is fine, but don't overdo it. Here's a link to revolver cleaning.

Jim H.
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Old December 3, 2007, 11:51 AM   #245
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Post jfh

Thanks for the response, jfh.

Friction Line
On an old Charter blued snubby of mine, the friction line shows up but just like worn/lighter blueing. I guess the shock is the bright silver raw-metal looking line on the 340 next to the black DLC finish! It almost looks like a gouge in the metal.

Binding
I don't think it is the cylinder binding, because it was only on RELEASING the trigger that it wouldn't go all the way forward, there isn't any cylinder rotation when you let the trigger out. I know in response to the binding I sent WAY too much CLP into the action, but I was kind of panicking.... I think I'm going to go shoot it again at lunch today, see how it does...

"Crud" Line
The ring in the cylinder bore doesn't look "raised" like there's junk there to be removed, it just looks like a line. Does yours even show a line at about the point where a .38 ends? I really let the Hoppes foaming elite sit in there for at least 5 min and scraped her pretty good with a .38 brush - I'm hesitant to go after that line with my DeWalt drill!!

Thanks again for your help, my head was spinning that I perhaps got some kind of lemon or something. ~FranklyTodd

Last edited by FranklyTodd; December 5, 2007 at 02:35 AM. Reason: typo
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Old December 3, 2007, 12:59 PM   #246
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I agree with your assessment of the friction line--but so far, I've not worried about it and consider it normal. When I get to about 1000 rounds fired, I am thinking of sending it into S&W for a "checkup" and we'll see what they say.

As for the action binding: I am not knowledgeable enough yet about revolver actions to judge this--I would probably dry-fire it to see if the problem remains. As for the excessive CLP--I would simply set the revolver upright and let it drain out. FWIW, I do NOT use the pressurized CLP, only the squeeze bottles. I use it liberally for cleaning and wiping down, but only sparingly for lubrication.

Yes, I have that "crud ring" and without any apparent surface deposits remaining. Again, I thought I would chase this down with that 1000+-round "tuneup appointment" I'm thinking of doing. As for using the drill--I am assuming you do have the M&P340 (with its stainless cylinder) and not the 340PD (with a titanium cylinder)--so I am not reluctant to tackle cleaning it with a drill and hard nylon bore brush, after dosage of the Elite bore gel like you did.

IMO, your revolver sounds almost normal--just check into that trigger binding. Mine has never had the reset problem--but I did have an action job done by my gunsmith immediately, so the action was cleaned.

Jim H.
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Old December 4, 2007, 02:57 PM   #247
soloshot
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Join Date: November 15, 2007
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new to M&P 340

Picked up my M&P 340 CT today. Shot 150 rounds of 38 SPL. I've had a 642-2 CT for a few months and what a difference. The smaller grip on the M&P 340 CT definately smarts more than the 642 CT with the same ammo. Dialed the laser in and accuracy was comparable to the 642 CT. Sight shooting was way different. Took a few rounds to figure the different sight out and overall my accuracy was worse on the M&P 340 CT. It may be the smaller grip, different sight, or just getting used to the whole package. A few hundred more rounds should help...

Just a side note: I posted about misfire in the 642 Club. I had 2/50 misfire in my 642 using Fiocchi 38 SPL 158 FMJ. I was using up the rest of my Fiocchi alternating between the 642 and the 340 when another misfire occurred in the 340 this time after 30 rounds. These guns don't like Fiocchi or I got some bad ammo....
cheers!
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Old December 4, 2007, 10:13 PM   #248
DAdams
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Join Date: February 28, 2007
Location: East Tennessee
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Frankly Todd

1. Yes, the DLC is gone. Same on my 642 but not as evident due to coloration. Normal.

2. No. I'm not certain what is going on there. If it starts to act up, light strike or no strike, send it to S&W, they will pay shipping both ways and take care of it under warranty. Might take 10 days. Call customer service first for return authorization. They will send a pre-paid lable.
I had a brand new 642-2 that had to go back at about 150 rounds. It's been fine since a few hundred rounds later.

3. Yes. I have that same ring. I haven't gotten hung up about it. The cylinders are "clean". No lead no copper. Guess I'll have to get a bit more aggressive and see if I can make it go away. But then again....

soloshot, welcome. That two ounces makes a difference in recoil. I shoot the J Frames for profficiency relative to personal protection, not necessarily for fun, but they are that too. Sometimes frustrating, such as my last range trip. Guess it's like bowling, can't strike every frame every game.
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Old December 4, 2007, 10:21 PM   #249
DAdams
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jfh

Hornady LnL arrived a couple of days ago. Need to get my free bullets offer ordered up and order some shell plates. I'll be hitting you up for some recipes some day after I master the basics.
Unfortunately I'm in FL now and it is in TN.
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Old December 5, 2007, 02:33 AM   #250
FranklyTodd
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Join Date: November 27, 2007
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Thumbs up Gunsmith inspection

I was buying some junk at Gander Mountain, and the gunsmith was in so I started jawing with him. Really nice guy so I asked him my two questions (trigger wasn't acting up so didn't ask). You are of course right about the DLC - it is totally normal for it to come off where the cylinder snaps in.

What he explained about the ring in the cylinder requires me to humiliate myself somewhat...

The cylinders on these are not straight through - there's a place where the case go, then it's smaller down where the bullet travels. A .38 of course doesn't get as close to that transition point, and so sometimes a deposit is left. He inspected mine and said it was pristine. The "ring" I was whining about is a normal part of the gun where the chamber gets smaller. Probably most EVERYBODY knows about this, but I simply did not; I thought they were the same diameter clear through. I've been doing the autoloader for too long I guess... Also should have noticed it when the gun was new - my fault...

Thanks again to all who chimed in.
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