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Old June 21, 2007, 10:09 AM   #51
jfh
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I chose to get action jobs done right out of the box

because I didn't want to use 500 rounds or so to smooth the actions out. But, I have a marksmanship background; as a result, I am very conscious of trigger pull characteristics.

It's my understanding that the DAO actions (all J-frames?) are hard to lower the DA pull on. Indeed, my smith (who carries a 442 at work), kept the DA pull at about 10 lbs for ignition reliability.

But, the pull was a lot smoother--and, in accordance with his shooting style, the trigger is now able to be staged beautifully. I'll practice with full-stroke pulls, but the option is there. So, for me it's worth it; much better than the NIB pull on either the 340 or the 640.

Jim H.

Last edited by jfh; June 21, 2007 at 12:47 PM.
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Old June 21, 2007, 10:16 AM   #52
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tarheel

Welcome to the Club, by virtue of having a M&P 340 you are now a member, like it or not.

On the trigger job. I don't know how it will effect the "smoothness" of your trigger pull.

I have both a 642-2 and a M&P 340. Out of the box I think the 340 pull is/was much smoother than the 642 new. I dry fired the 642 about 1000 times until it smoothed out. The 340 out of the box feels about as smooth as the 642 does now, without a round through it yet.

I had to send the 642 back to S&W for a sear replacement. It felt even better since they may have cleaned out the MIM dust and perhaps lubed it??

I guess with my limited knowledge I would recommend dry firing it a few hundred times (with or without snap caps, S&W says you dont need them, your call), then take it in for the clean and light lube. Part of the "smoothing process" revolves around wear. Perhaps your smith can accellerate that by working internally?

I certainly wouldn't mind having the trigger pull reduced by a pound or two but I don't know what the optimal would be. I found spending some time building up grip and finger strength with a ball or "grip master" helped too.

Perhaps you have seen the internals of a 642 with ILS? I suspect the "guts" of the 340 are the same. I would be interested to know if there was anything done internally to make the M&P superior?? I doubt it though.



Let's see how others weigh in.

Again Welcome. Share your photos, range reports etc.
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Old June 22, 2007, 03:26 PM   #53
fiver
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Cleaning?

So what's the consensus on cleaning these bad boys? Does the "nothing containing ammonia" rule apply to this finish as well? Safe to use a soft brass brush everywere, or only down the barrel?

I'm a bit paranoid, unless anyone knows otherwise I'm nervous to touch this gun with anything more than CLP and a nylon brush.
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Old June 22, 2007, 05:02 PM   #54
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fiver

That's a good question. I didn't check in the manual does it say in there?

I am traveling and don't have mine with me for reference.

I posed the question on the S&W Forum, Gunsmithing Maintenance and also sent an email to S&W.

Let's compare notes when the jury reconvenes.

Ion Bond BLACK Diamond Finish. That's what the spec sheet calls it. Now if we can just figure out how to deal with cleaning.
===============================================================================

I ran into this on another forum. A guy by the name.....IonBond.

"For anyone wanting information about services that Ionbond offers Please contact Ryan Flynn and discuss details... He will only take on work that he has time to deliver on. Our main productiion in for Major Firearms Companies
that we are part of there supply chain. It has alway been difficult to handle custom firearms and meet everone expections. This is the reason Ionbond hired Ryan Flynn as Gunsmith in Greensbogro to try to support after market custom firearms. Ionbond does coat product for every company listed in this thread. during the past two years Ionbond has process over 200,000 firearms.

I'm not sure what Pistolwrench is refering to... DANGER DANGER Will Robinison but I noticed he removed his post.. If he would like to discuss it feel free to pm me and we can discuss it further.

Ionbond also sponsors Taran Butler 3-Gun Nation Champion and Tony Holmes
please feel free to contact either. Check out Matt Burkett's radio show each week for updates on Ionbond..."


Thank You
Ionbond
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Last edited by DAdams; June 23, 2007 at 08:54 AM.
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Old June 23, 2007, 12:37 AM   #55
fiver
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Cleaning / Owners Manual

The manual is kinda worthless. It is a generic manual for all "Modern Style" revolvers. For instance, on page 14 it says no bullets less than 120 GR for "All Scandium Revolvers". We know this is not true for the M&P. The manual should say "All Scandium cylinders"

On cleaning it doesn't say much useful. It does say that ammoniated cleaners should never be used on *any* S&W firearm. I have seen some heated discussions before about whether Hoppes #9 has ammonia in it or not, well here are the MSDS for Hoppes Products and we see that it DOES have ammonia

http://www.copquest.com/knowledgebase/index.htm

The final note on cleaning in the manual says "As a rule of thumb, if you would be comfortable applying the solvent of your choice to the finish of your automobile, it will probably be safe to use on your firearm."

I picked up some Hoppes Elite Gun Cleaner tonight, in addition to using it on my car I'd be comfortable drinking the damn stuff. Seemed to do a good job on my grungy Kel Tec.

I forgot to get nylon brushes tonight when I picked up the Hoppes Elite. I'll get some tommorow and give the M&P a full clean then get out the the range and finally shoot it!!
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Old June 23, 2007, 12:40 AM   #56
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Quote:
I picked up some Hoppes Elite Gun Cleaner tonight,
in addition to using it on my car I'd be comfortable drinking the damn stuff.
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Old June 23, 2007, 09:00 AM   #57
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Owners Manual

fiver-

The owners manuals (S&W) are pathetic. They really are just a legal shell document to mitigate and possibly minmize legal issues. The safety material is of course necessary.

You would think that a gazzillion $$ company would put out a germane manual specific to each of its handguns. Care and feeding type of information instead of what the lawyers mandate.

I have been all over the internet and can find nothing helpful or substantive regarding Ion Bond cleaning and maintenance.
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Old June 23, 2007, 10:08 AM   #58
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Hey, are M&P 360 owners allowed in here? I just gotta have a hammer....
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Old June 23, 2007, 11:35 AM   #59
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Coltrane and his 360

Yep, your are welcome.

M&P 340 sung to the tune "if I had a hammer".

You are especially welcome if you know how to clean the exterior of the "Ion Bond finish" any ideas?
What works, what doesn't. What to stay away from.

How many rounds through it and what's your favorite ammo and holster?

How about a photo. No one has posted a 360 pic yet!!
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Old June 23, 2007, 04:36 PM   #60
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340/360 Coating

Here is what my research has revealed.

IonBond

ADLC
Amorphous Diamond Like Carbon. An amorphous carbon material with mostly sp3 bonding that exhibits many of the desirable properties of diamond and graphite.

Advantages of the process:

Extreme toughness of coatings
High loading capacity of certain tools (but long cycle times)
Items to be coated do not require rotation within the retort
Possible to coat complex geometries, including certain inner diameters
Excellent coating uniformity, independent of part geometry

My guess is that it is the same material on this Kershaw Knife.

http://www.ionbond.com/pix/files/knife.pdf

Hardness (HV) 4000.

http://www.ionbond.com/

Rohrbaugh's new "stealth version", is coated with "Diamond Black DLC".
Recall the S&W M&P spec sheet calls the coating: "Ion Bond BLACK Diamond Finish".

I have the similiar coating on the stainless slide of my Kahr PM9.
Here is their description, look familiar?

"Tungsten Diamond Like Carbide (DLC)
The KP9094 matte stainless slide is blackened using an ultra hard and super thin coating called Tungsten DLC. This coating has been used successfully in the knife industry to protect blades from corrosion and scratches."

On my Kahr I have used Outers Tri-Care that came with a cleaning kit, I have used it to clean the barrel and wipe down the exterior finish and including cleaning the interior of the slide with the Tri-Care to get rid of powder residue with no ill effects.

ewayte from the S&W Forum contributes:

"The S&W Product Guide lists it as IonBond DiamondBLACK. The manual states, "Ammoniated solvents or other strong alkaline solvents, should not be used on any Smith & Wesson firearm."
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Last edited by DAdams; June 23, 2007 at 05:36 PM.
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Old June 23, 2007, 11:00 PM   #61
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I have used just about everything

On my 340PD. I have not had one problem with the coating coming off. The gun has fired lead, as well as copper plated, and copper jacketed bullets. All were over 125gr. I claen the cylinder face with a nylon brush and Shooters Choice. I really like this thing. It is carried on a daily basis with both 135 gr gold dots in 38 sp. and 357 mag.
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Old June 24, 2007, 01:03 PM   #62
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Welcome 340PD

Welcome to the 340 Club.

Thanks for the information. How about a picture or two.
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Old June 26, 2007, 04:27 PM   #63
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For those of you with the Lg 405 Crimson Trace grips - I think that is the model - the newest one anyways.

Why is there a groove cut out of the rear bottom of the grip? Is it for a lanyard of sorts, or just to reduce more weight?

I shoot my 340 approx 25-30 times a session, and notice the bulk of the pain is right where my hand flesh touches this groove. Like it gets pinched. Am I the only one?

I have considered filling it with some black caulk, but would like to understand its actual purpose before doing so. If anyone else has tried anything else, please chime in.

Last edited by travl4me1; June 26, 2007 at 05:05 PM. Reason: I can't spell for shiet :)
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Old June 26, 2007, 05:45 PM   #64
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OK, I dug out my 340 with the same grips--just got it back from the 'smith for its action job, but I've been sick with the creeping crud and have not been to the range yet.

1. The slot is for a lanyard.

2. I've only shot mine about 80 rounds total so far, including nominally 50 for the CHL field test.

I felt no discomfort from the frame cutout at the back. However, I quickly adjusted my grip for a really high hold: the web between my thumb and forefinger rides well above the top of the grip to maximize the soft rubber and anti-recoil design of this grip. That kind of hold also concentrates the recoil into the meatier part of my hand and reduces a direct transfer into the bones from a lower grip.

I also am not shooting ass-to-the wall loads, like a .357 / 125 Rem load. Until I gain more proficiency, I'm using the FC 110-gr .38 Spl or the 129-gr. .38+P PD loads. There's no point in such punishment, I think.

So, the question is, what are you shooting, travl4me1?


In a slightly different setting, my 'smith friend test-fired my 340 after completing the action job. (He has his own 442 for shop carry, but had done no work on it.).

His test-fire was with a 'standard .38 Spl round'--whatever that means.

One round--without the grip installed.

He said it was distinctly uncomfortable, and suggested I never do it.

Jim H.
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Old June 26, 2007, 06:07 PM   #65
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The Rem 357 125gr as you mentioned is what I have been actually shooting the most of, and a fair amount of the Speer short barrel 357 135 grain which I have the laser sighted to.

I will try holding higher as you have done, and see if its comfortable or makes a difference. I have no use for the lanyard as far as I can see. I might carefully caulk the groove and see what I end up with.

I had a shooting glove at one time, but never took a liking to it, so I don't use one. Maybe I need to dig it out. I;ve heard people say "like hitting your hand with a rubber mallet" and that is not what I am experiencing. I just feel like I'm getting skin pinched in that groove. Could be shape of my hands, or soft skin from pushing a pen too much now days.

get to feeling better & thanks Jim.
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Old June 27, 2007, 11:50 AM   #66
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caulked CT groove

Caulk complete. I haven't shot it, but I sense this might remedy my pinch issue. Doesn't look great,but doesn't look awful IMO
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSCF0080.JPG (312.0 KB, 676 views)
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Old June 28, 2007, 11:28 PM   #67
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After having about 150 rounds of .38 and 50 rounds of .357 through the M&P 340 that I have on layaway the cylinder is beginning to lock down on me. I assume this is because all of the rounds through it so far are of the lead variety. This happened once on my 642, but with a good dose of Gun Scrubber around the cylinder, the binding broke loose and has not frozen up since. I tried this today on the M&P while I was at the range and the binding was relieved, but only for about 2 cylinders worth of rounds, then began binding again. I was hesitant to do much more than this since the weapon still belongs to the range.

I have never removed the cylinder from my 642 or the M&P, so I don't know the procedure. I have done it a couple of times on my GP-100. Is this difficult on a Smith? Can/should it be done at the range while the gun is still on layaway? I certainly don't want to pay the range to remove the lead binding up the cylinder. Any suggestions?
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Old June 29, 2007, 12:06 AM   #68
jfh
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to remove the crane & cylinder assembly on a 340,

1. lay the revolver on its left side
2. loosen the forward side plate screw--it doesn't need to be removed.
3. Open the cylinder, slide the crane assembly out.
4. to reassemble, do the reverse. You may want to secure the screw with a touch of low-strength threadlock, loc-tite, etc., etc.

Be aware of all the usual caveats: use the correct screwdriver bit, do not be ham-handed, etc., etc. If you cannot loosen the screw yourself, hire the gunsmith to do it.

Jim H.
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Old June 29, 2007, 03:51 PM   #69
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Cleaning Follow-Up

I sent an email to S&W Customer service regarding cleaning of the M&P 340.
As usual the email is short and without detail.

Quote:
Hi,
Hoppes Elite is recommended for this Model 340 revolver
Do not use anything that has ammonia in it.
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Old July 9, 2007, 11:58 PM   #70
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Figured I'd bump this thread and throw in my contribution...

Here's my 360 knucklebuster and a Wilson Combat Shark skin holster.



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Old July 11, 2007, 02:56 PM   #71
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I'm doing my best to rejoin this club since I foolishly sold my M&P 340 a couple of months ago. I'm having trouble finding a dealer with one in stock. The range that I shoot at has one in stock but it's the display model and would run me another $50 to $60 over what my online sources can get for me.
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Old July 19, 2007, 09:10 PM   #72
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It has been a while since I have posted anything, but went to the range today and put about 100 rounds through the M&P. I think I love it more than the 642!? Even at 25 yards it's grouping inside the 7 ring on an Anatomy Man target slow-fired. Just practice rounds though. Very lightly charged .38 sp with BBWC's. The trigger is starting to smooth out nicely, as it has been fired about 500 times now. I only put 10 of my light .357's downrange. At 21 feet, rapid fire, all 10 went into the head of the target. Did not fire any of my heavy stuff nor factory today. I'm just trying to warm up to it and get the 642 off my mind since my wife is carrying it now. It's still in the family and goes with her everywhere.
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Old August 5, 2007, 10:33 AM   #73
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This thread needed a bump (and I need a 340 M&P).
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Old August 5, 2007, 07:50 PM   #74
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I was fortunate that my dealer couldn't get the CT version and ordered the base 340 m&p planning to just replace grips with CT's of his shelf. Turns out that I did not like the feel of the CT grips at all. The little hogue's that come on it have more of a palm swell and are softer, so I got off cheaper.
The recoil was nothing like I expected, totally manageable with 158 grain 38 and 357 mags. I would not want to shoot more than a few cylinders of 357 at the time, but I could keep them in the targets chest at 40 feet after shooting a box of 50 specials.
My wife filled out the paperwork, because she also aquired a 640 and planned on picking them up, but they didn't arrive until she was out of town for a week. So, I was able to shoot it, and oooh and ahhh; and then had to leave it at the shop.
I've just ordered those Maxfire speedloaders mentioned earlier on this thread because they looked very cool. Has anyone else used them?
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Old August 5, 2007, 10:28 PM   #75
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Maxfire

rodensouth welcome to The High Road and M&P bunch. Let us know how you like the Maxfires.

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthrea...RE+SPEEDLOADER

Here are a couple of responses to a question I asked about this a few months back. I decided not to try them. Most agree that the Bianchi Speedstrips carry well and might load faster than most.
Quote:
totally manageable with 158 grain 38 and 357 mags. I would not want to shoot more than a few cylinders of 357 at the time, but I could keep them in the targets chest at 40 feet after shooting a box of 50 specials.
I agree with shooting the 340. This revolver weight seems to be the ideal compromise between the 642 and the 340pds.
I found spl and plus P rounds to be manageable for me.
I haven't done any 357 yet, next time. I have some short barrel SGD waiting in the wings.
The sights on this gun are great despite its roll as a point and shooter.

JM Fred, thanks for the bump and we all agree you need a 340.
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