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Old September 16, 2014, 06:43 AM   #1
Quoheleth
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K-frame question

I have a late-model 19 that I acquired a few months back, used, and at a smoking price. I may have figured out why the price was smoking hot.

When dry-firing the gun, it binds just a bit on one chamber and a bit less on its next-adjacent chamber. Its enough that when shooting DA to throw the sight picture off considerably (but it can be shot DA, so its not a tight bind). The rest are fine and the trigger is otherwise smooth.

If I partially cock the hammer, not quite to the 1st click, the cylinder will spin freely. I don't see binding as if there were crud built up at the mouth of one chamber.

I don't have a feeler gauge, but it almost looks like when the gun is in full lock-up with these 2 chambers, there isn't as much gap as with the other 4.

Any diagnostic thoughts?

Q
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Old September 16, 2014, 08:12 AM   #2
highpower
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The first thing that comes to mind is that the ejector rod is slightly bent. Also check it for tightness.
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Old September 16, 2014, 02:44 PM   #3
Jim K
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If there is nothing obviously wrong with the crane or ejector rod, I suspect the cylinder face may be machined wrong (not perfectly square). Surprisingly, that is not an unknown problem, even with the best makers. If that is determined to be the problem, I would call S&W. The best place to correct that problem would be the factory, and they will usually make it right even if it is an older gun.

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Old September 16, 2014, 07:36 PM   #4
Quoheleth
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I paid $350 for it.

Worth sending it back to S&W or just keep shooting it?

Q
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Old September 16, 2014, 07:47 PM   #5
243winxb
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What Jim K said, but a local smith can do it in a lathe for a few $$. Less then shipping. I had it done to a K22 years ago.
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Old September 16, 2014, 07:50 PM   #6
Quoheleth
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If its a bent ejector rod (I haven't pulled it out of the safe yet to check) can a local 'smith do that, too?

Q
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Old September 16, 2014, 08:33 PM   #7
243winxb
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An ejector rod can be replaced by a local smith. Some parts are only replaced at the factory. But first you need to figure out what the problem is or just hand it over to the smith.
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Old September 16, 2014, 10:15 PM   #8
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Find someone local that is a Smith Armorer, they should be able to diagnose it fairly cheaply. Then decide on weather you want the fix. It is hard to diagnose the problem on the net sometimes it is hard with it in hand but it may be something very simple. I would at least have it checked out if you want to keep and fire the pistol.
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Old September 16, 2014, 11:08 PM   #9
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Also, check the B/C gap. Could be rubbing on two chambers.
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Old September 16, 2014, 11:14 PM   #10
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It also could be that part of the forcing cone is simply coming in contact with the cylinder face. If the b/c gap is. 004" or below, you may need only a file. I had this problem on a Taurus 66 years ago. I removed the cylinder and put the gun in a vice with the barrel facing down. I took a file and saw that the forcing cone wasn't squared perfectly. Just a few swipes with the file fixed the problem. Smith & Wesson revolvers don't usually have that problem, but it's always possible.
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Old September 16, 2014, 11:35 PM   #11
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The first thing I would do is buy a $4.95 feeler gage set at Auto-Zone and check the B/C gap at each chamber.

If the cylinder face is whopper-jawed, filing off the barrel shank is the last thing in the world you want to do to try to correct it.

To properly fix it, the cylinder needs to be faced off true in a lathe.

And that in itself will open up the B/C gap, perhaps excessively.
Which in turn will require the barrel to be set back one turn, the gap fitted to the cylinder, and the forcing cone re-cut.

Without already filing off the barrel shank and making it worse before you figure out what the problem 'really' is!

Anyway, if the barrel shank is crooked?
And the cylinder is straight?
It would rub on all six chambers, not just a couple!

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Last edited by rcmodel; September 16, 2014 at 11:41 PM.
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Old September 17, 2014, 09:39 AM   #12
BSA1
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When you measure the b/c gap do it from both sides of the barrel. It may not be the cylinder. I have a Ruger that the b/c gap measured .003 on one side and .001 on the other! A gunsmith corrected it easily by squaring the end of the barrel and recutting the forcing cone in about 10 minutes with a tool made just for this type of problem.
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Old September 17, 2014, 07:31 PM   #13
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One thing to remember if you take it to a local "gunsmith" is that gunshops can have a very loose definition of the title gunsmith. I have seen some "gunsmiths" that were worth their weight in gold and did top notch work. I have also come across "gunsmiths" that should never be allowed in the door of a gunshop much less handle a gun. Just because a guy can turn a screwdriver does not mean he is qualified to work on guns. Take it to a competent gunsmith who is worth the money spent. You could ask local hunters or even older cops who they like or use.
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Old September 17, 2014, 08:36 PM   #14
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One of my K frames got a little sticky in the same way. I flushed it out with Ed's Red through all the openings and it worked fine after that. So perhaps try removing the grips and give the works a good flushing through the big as well as the small openings with something that both cleans and lubricates and see if the issue is still there.

Pay particular attention to the hand and the slot for the hand.
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Old Yesterday, 05:22 PM   #15
Quoheleth
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Follow up question...

Had an offer for an as-is trade, my 2.5" Model 19 for a NIB LCR .38 hammerless.

What say ye?

Q
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Old Yesterday, 08:25 PM   #16
highpower
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Keep the 19. Whatever is wrong with it, it's likely an easy fix. While it could be one of the more far fetched and imaginative scenarios postulated above, I would almost be willing to bet money it is something simple.

Please do yourself a favor and check out the simple stuff first before you trade it away. Bent ejector rod, crud under the ejector star and loose ejector rod. probably 98% of the time it is one of these.

Model 19's (especially the 2.5" barrel) are highly sought after. I wouldn't trade mine for two LCR's.
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Old Yesterday, 09:00 PM   #17
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Keep the 19. In my opinion the 19 in any shape is a far better revolver than the LCR.
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Old Yesterday, 09:14 PM   #18
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Quote:
Follow up question...
Had an offer for an as-is trade, my 2.5" Model 19 for a NIB LCR .38 hammerless.
What say ye?
Q
Not just no, but Hell no.
Contact S&W. If it is a "late model", they will likely fix it free of charge, and pay shipping both ways.
Even if it is not so recent, let them look at it.
They will probably fix it free of charge and pay return shipping.
That means you pay shipping one way---talk to your local FFL--they can use USPS Priority Mail and ship for $20 or less.
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Old Yesterday, 09:23 PM   #19
chuckpro
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I am in the keep the 19 club,

The OP stated "If I partially cock the hammer, not quite to the 1st click, the cylinder will spin freely. I don't see binding as if there were crud built up at the mouth of one chamber."

Doesn't this rule out all the cylinder gap problems? Or am i missing something?


I think with a certified S&W smith would be worth the few bucks. If it is in good shape you could spend a couple hundred on it and still come out ok. These are highly desirable guns right now. I really think it is something simple the a good smith could resolve without costing much money.
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