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Old April 13, 2012, 11:08 PM   #3351
DoubleDeuce 1
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Some guys remove the bluing from the cylinders because the originals weren't blued. They rub naval jelly on the cylinder or mustard to give it a gray tone. That would be one less step for you. As for pulling the arbor and barrel pins, I don't think I would do that. Is it really necessary to do that for a bluing job? As for the front sight, maybe you could paint something on it to protect it from the bluing salts... I dunno.

Are you on the easst side of the Bay or the west side? Just curious.
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Old April 15, 2012, 05:19 AM   #3352
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DoubleDeuce 1..
it is the uberti kit, so all the metal is in the white.. When I got this I was thinking of doing some etching on the frame, but have decided not to now. the frame isn't cch, so blueing seemed best.. I am just going to do some brass inlays on the grip I planned, but going with a much much darker stain.. almost ebony I think to kinda go with the metal...


but good question... should I (can I?) pull the arbor and the various pins for a hot salt blue bath... same for all the screw threads, the center cylinder chamber (whats that called?), the barrel pin holes in both the barrel and frame, etc..
I can't believe that blueing could cause enough surface changes to make problems..

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Old April 15, 2012, 11:28 AM   #3353
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A long time ago, there used to be a product to color case harden things like frames. I forget the name of it, it is something like Casenit or Casen It. I probably got it spelled wrong. From what I remember, it was simple to use and turned out fairly nice. That might be another option for you. Again, memory... it might have been a powder you sprinkled on the metal and then heated it with a propane torch or put it in the oven. Dig around, you might find it. I think we got it at the hardware store or through Dixie Gun Works.
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Old April 15, 2012, 02:06 PM   #3354
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Kasenit is used to harden not to color. To color or give a case hardened look. You would need to use carbon. long process. i would just blue it. either a very dark blue or rust blue
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Old April 16, 2012, 04:35 AM   #3355
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I've worked on a couple of Uberti Walker kits over some years and have tried all the various chemicals and formulas to blue, case harden and various wood preps. I've even tried charcoal bluing - with dire results!
Without a heat controlled furnace it would seem near on impossible to successfully 'colour' case harden, although I do wonder how they did this 150 years ago without all the modern technology used these days. Hot salts bluing is pretty easy and always produce consistent results, as long as you degrease well and maintain the correct temperature. I would see no reason to strip the cylinder arbour from the frame to blue using this method. It's pretty forgiving (as long as you keep the temperature right). Case hardening with Kasenit I've also tried. Warpage is the biggest problem here so I wouldn't recommend. I've had to re mill the base of the Walker frame to get it back straight after my Kasenit attempts.
I've just spent the past couple of months fitting a new steel backstrap and walnut grip to one of my Walkers. I was determind to create the exact profile of the grip shape as on an original. Have just finished bluing and treating the wood. Looks right. I'll post some pictures once I take them.
Cheers,

Roy
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Old April 17, 2012, 06:41 AM   #3356
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Waker - reworked backstrap and grips

Hi All,
OK, after a lot of work - and 3 sets of walnut grips later - my Walker is now finished. The replacement backstrap from Dixie Gunworks took a lot of filing and profiling as I was attempting to fit it to the frame without marking the colour case hardening. Masking tape cut to shape just about did the job.
I enlarged a few photos of some original Walkers and used them as a template to reshape the backstrap. A heavy hammer was also used to create a bulge with a wider profile.
First set of walnut grips I made looked OK but the walnut was pretty dull. The second set had too much figure in the wood as I wanted a very straight grain.
The photos show the gun with it's blued cylinder. I also have a spare left in the white. Not quite certain which I like best???
This kit has taken around 25 years on and off. The past year was intensive and I think I'm ready to start a new one. A Paterson would be interesting???

Cheers,

Roy
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Walker new grips.jpg (78.1 KB, 114 views)
File Type: jpg Walker new grips 2.jpg (78.3 KB, 101 views)
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Old April 17, 2012, 06:43 AM   #3357
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Excellent job, Roy. Very, very nice.
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Old April 17, 2012, 09:53 AM   #3358
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It looks real good! Curious to hear more about what you did to the gripstrap, especially the "...bulge with a wider profile...".
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Old April 17, 2012, 11:46 AM   #3359
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Yeah, we need photos of the backstrap!
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Old April 17, 2012, 03:03 PM   #3360
DoubleDeuce 1
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That does look excellent!
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Old April 18, 2012, 04:55 AM   #3361
Whitesongs
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Walker - reworked backstrap and grips

Thanks for the comments guys.
OK, the backstrap 'bulge'. I'll take some shots tonight and will post.
Uberti's backstrap slopes down at quite an acute angle creating a much slimmer grip profile when looking at the gun side on. Original Walker profile was slightly wider (where the grip would fit in the palm of your hand). There is also a 'ski slope' type contour towards the bottom which is then rounded off considerably on the heel. I've attached a photo of my Walker with the old 'Uberti' grip shape. If you compare it with the photos I uploaded yesterday with the new gripshape you'll see the difference - and what I mean by 'bulge'.

Cheers,

Roy
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File Type: jpg Camden-20110920-00103.jpg (68.4 KB, 80 views)
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Old April 22, 2012, 08:17 PM   #3362
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Roy that is really nice
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Old April 23, 2012, 04:41 AM   #3363
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Walker - reworked backstrap and grips

Thanks Scrat.
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Old April 23, 2012, 06:01 PM   #3364
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New member

I just picked up my Walker from Cabela's at lunch. Looking forward to shooting it this summer! I would have examined it in the store, but it's practically floating in oil and it would have been seriously messy. Maybe tonight I'll get it cleaned up and take a good look at it.

Question: the cylinder won't turn if the barrel pin is tapped on at all. It is barely sticking out the opposite side, most of it is still sticking out the insertion side. Is there a problem, or will this loosen up and let the pin be inserted further after its been fired? Should I send it back to Cabelas?


Last edited by sdlsaginaw; April 24, 2012 at 11:03 PM. Reason: Added picture and a question
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Old April 23, 2012, 06:20 PM   #3365
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Good luck with your new Walker. Membership requires you post a picture of your new prize.
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Old April 25, 2012, 03:36 PM   #3366
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Question

I updated my post just above with a picture and a question. This is just to bump it since the update didn't appear to.
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Old April 25, 2012, 04:23 PM   #3367
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The wedge will loosen up a bit. It sounds like it needs the arbor lengthened to be properly fit. Inserting the wedge is not supposed to have an effect on the barrel to cylinder gap.

Read these articles....

http://www.theopenrange.net/articles...ers_Part_3.pdf

http://www.theopenrange.net/articles...ers_Part_4.pdf
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Old April 25, 2012, 06:27 PM   #3368
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Wow, that's sad

I'm used to a little 'fluff 'n buff' to make a new gun function better, but this is a bit much. And it appears common from the factory. I might rethink this purchase if Uberti has such lousy quality control.
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Old April 25, 2012, 09:46 PM   #3369
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Old April 26, 2012, 06:03 PM   #3370
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I have been rethinking doing a hot blue on my walker kit.. I have done small tanks, for things like screws and other small parts, on the order of a quart size. Easy to heat, control, etc.. but this is an order of magnitude bigger, and is becoming more than my little suburban garage can handle... I don't want to send it out. if I wanted something factory done, I wouldn't have gotten the kit.

so, caswell black oxide?.. full soak for the backstrap and barrel with steel wool rubdown, a quicker dunk for the frame (I have done that before with brownells on chisels.. if it is perfectly clean, it comes out a grayish color. sort of like sunlight-faded color-case) and leave the cylinder white.

I will post a picture of the walker pieces tonight..
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Old April 26, 2012, 06:19 PM   #3371
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Sounds like an excellent plan. I can't wait to see it!
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Old April 26, 2012, 06:23 PM   #3372
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Old May 7, 2012, 10:34 AM   #3373
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Hi I just in the last few months joined the high road. I collect black powder revolves, I also sell on gunsamerica from time to time. My walker portion of my inventory consists os two ASM walkers marked Hartford, 3 second generation Heritage sets one american historical golden tribute engraved and gold plated, Uberti, one America remembers second generation tribute to the Texas rangers and one third generation 150 year Annaversery walker, two very good copies with all original walker markings - one is Company B and one is Company A. These I believe we're built from scratch by master gunsmith Thomas Haas, and one early commercial very well built, I believe built from scratch by master gunsmith Dick Street. Both of these gentlemen built both Walkers and Paterson's from the ground up. I also have a very old Walker rusted relic that one cannot identify
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Old May 7, 2012, 11:12 AM   #3374
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Buzz,
It would be great to see some photos of your Walkers and such.
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Old May 26, 2012, 12:56 AM   #3375
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got myself a Dick Dastardly Loader for my walker... anyone have one and get it to agree? i have to be doing something wrong because i can get it to work for me...
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