Identity and Date of Manufacture of S&W Revolvers - Page 3

Shade00 · June 26, 2008, 12:04 AM

NG VI, your Model 28-2 was manufactured sometime between 1969 and 1972. The N prefix serials began in 1969 with serial N1, and 1973 began with N100000.

Shade00 · June 26, 2008, 12:08 AM

All right all right aright Fuff.

I'll remind you that many spy types have killed others with .22s.... you know how the story goes. Any bullet is deadly. I don't mean to put down the .38 S&W, as I noted that I would hate to get hit by one. But since I do not have time to do my own reloads, .38 S&W is just too expensive to shoot. So it is not an effective home defense choice for me.

You're absolutely right though, bullet placement is key.

Old Fuff · June 26, 2008, 12:28 AM

Well O. K.... This time I'll let you off the hook. But only because I don't generally go for 125 grain full patch .38's going 625 FPS myself.

Now go back to work...

skoro · June 26, 2008, 12:30 AM

Shade00 -

Thanks for the info and sorry for the duplication.

Oro · June 26, 2008, 12:38 PM

NG VI Your Patrolman is likely 1971, according to S&W #s compiled elsewhere and an N-gun I have a few thousand away from that.

NG VI · June 26, 2008, 03:10 PM

For some reason I had thought it was an earlier gun than that... What I get for losing the papers it came with!

Would anyone reccomend getting it reblued by S&W or a different company or will it be corrosion resistant enough?

Shade00 · June 26, 2008, 03:16 PM

Having it refinished by S&W will help it retain more value than having it refinished by another outfit. However, if you want a hardcore shooter that will stand up to anything, there's nothing wrong with a hard chrome finish.

Oro · June 26, 2008, 07:38 PM

Amen on the S&W refinish as Shade00 said. S&W's recent blue work I have seen is outstanding, and cost competitive or cheaper than other outstanding revolver shops. The sandblast/matte blue of the 28 is less expensive than a full polish blue job.

Unless I were going to take it routinely out in the rain or snow, or keep it on a boat in saltwater, I would keep it blue. They will be worth more some day. Were I going to use it in either of those scenarios, I would keep it at home and carry a 2.5" or 4" 686 instead.

NG VI · June 27, 2008, 10:24 AM

Yeah I think I will ask for a refinish for my birthday coming up, should it cost more than $100-150?

Shade00 · June 27, 2008, 11:29 AM

I'm not certain. I would expect it to be $200-250, though. Someone else may be able to chime in and help here.

zplug123 · June 27, 2008, 02:09 PM

Thanks for the info, though now I'm a little confused after looking over my newly-acquired S&W 28-2. The frame has N2279XX, but the cylinder arm has 11558.

Oro · June 27, 2008, 02:27 PM

Last I looked, S&W basic blue job was $180. Shipping and transfer back will add $$ (tip, call S&W and pay for a shipping label - much cheaper outbound that way).

zplug - legally, the frame is the gun, so that is the # that matters. 1975 or 1976.

chee-to · June 27, 2008, 03:16 PM

Mod-64 no dash S&W
a. .38
b. 4" tapered
c. square
e. fixed
f. D5254**
g. Mod-64 no dash

LA Rondo · June 27, 2008, 04:00 PM

Quote:

You're absolutely right though, bullet placement is key.

It's not really the subject of this thread, but I throw it in anyways.

Somebody has a sig line on an other forum.
Ever since I read it, I can't forget it. It goes like this:

"A hit with a .22 beats a miss with a .44"

Catalina25 · June 27, 2008, 04:34 PM

Hey guys and gals I'd like to play the dating game, but all I've got to show is what I've just picked up at gunbroker.com item # 103306899. I would have brought a picture over to here but brother I ain't got a clue. TKM

Old Fuff · June 27, 2008, 05:02 PM

Gee, how do you expect us to get a clue....

But this is The High Road.

I predict that you will receive a Smith & Wesson .38 1905 Hand Ejector, 4th. Change also known as the Military & Police.

The 4th Change variant was made between 1915 and 1942, within a serial number range running from 241,704 to 999,999. I suspect the serial number (located on the bottom of the butt)of your gun is 490,75x, so it was likely made durring the middle 1920's. The stocks are post-WW2 replacements, and you might find that its been reblued. 6-shot, chambered in .38 Special, and has a 4 inch barrel.

If this doesn't turn out to be right, come back...

JustinL · June 27, 2008, 05:05 PM

Just ouf of curiosity

1. When did S&W switch from the lazy to upright ampersand?
2. When did they change from the flat-latch to the current cylinder release?

avan47 · June 27, 2008, 05:14 PM

shade00, You got the Mod. 19 about right, but I purchased the Mod 36 prior to Nov of 72. I don't know the exact date.

Catalina25 · June 27, 2008, 05:17 PM

Old Fuff I thank you much. There are those you may read and post and other who should just read. Guess where I fit in. So Fuff obviously this is a gun with some years but should be safe with standard .38's right? I'll use the March method to give this gun the once over as it's worked well for me in the past. And if you should get the chance might I get some info on another of my K- frames it's a 10, 2inch SB blue serial # 2D76xxx Thanks again TKM

glock56534 · June 27, 2008, 06:02 PM

a) .38 S&W Special
b) 4" Bull
c) Square
d) 6
e) fixed rear and front blade
f) S/N: 5D932XX
g) Model 10-8

It has other numbers on the arm of the crane C9 and 45469. I don't know what these numbers are.

Old Fuff · June 27, 2008, 06:28 PM

Catalina25:

If it passes the March test it should be safe to shoot. Heat treated cylinders became available at serial number 316,648 - give or take. Plus-P loads won't blow it up, but the old timer will loosen up pretty quick, and repair parts don't grow on trees.

Old Fuff · June 27, 2008, 06:34 PM

glock56534:

S/N: 5D932XX: was made in 1979

The other numbers behind the yoke/crane are assembly numbers and manufacturing codes intended to make sure the right parts get put together after they were blued or plated.

**Brian Williams** · June 27, 2008, 06:36 PM

avan47
your 36 was made 71-72

chee-to

Mod-64 no dash S&W
a. .38
b. 4" tapered
c. square
e. fixed
f. D5254**
g. Mod-64 no dash

1973-74

Catalina25
Model 10
2d76xxx
1977

glock56534

a) .38 S&W Special
b) 4" Bull
c) Square
d) 6
e) fixed rear and front blade
f) S/N: 5D932XX
g) Model 10-8

1979

chee-to · June 27, 2008, 07:42 PM

Thanks for the info Brian....

Catalina25 · June 27, 2008, 08:18 PM

Old Fuff once again I thank you for the info. I think I'll keep that one as a range gun. I've others more modern for the other things.
Brian Williams thanks to you too for dating my minty two inch ten. That one will stay in the safe for a while longer.
A word here if you don't mind;
Though my I.D. may say I'm a member from only the beginning of the year the truth is I've been viewing from the shadows for much longer. I may spend most of my time here and over at shotgun but I do visit the other forums, especially those at the top of the home page. So I'd like to give a thank you to all of you that are generous with your knowledge. With that said and not to preach I do believe that when keep the education and sharing of information and ideas up, and the rhetoric down, we are clearly at our best. But not only here but out on the streets as well. What we say and how we act directly affects those of the non shooting community and their view towards us. And again thanks to all. Be Cool, Be safe TKM

June 26, 2008, 12:04 AM	#51
Shade00 Member Join Date: April 29, 2008 Location: Ruston, Louisiana & Jackson, Mississippi Posts: 715	NG VI, your Model 28-2 was manufactured sometime between 1969 and 1972. The N prefix serials began in 1969 with serial N1, and 1973 began with N100000. __________________ Colt .357 \| Diamondback \| Smith & Wesson 32-1 \| Pre-34 \| 36 \| 37 \| 042 \| 681 Walther PPK/S \| Ruger Speed Six \| H&R M1 Garand \| Springfield M1 Garand Coharie Arms CA89K \| CA94 \| Century C93 \| FAL

June 26, 2008, 12:08 AM	#52
Shade00 Member Join Date: April 29, 2008 Location: Ruston, Louisiana & Jackson, Mississippi Posts: 715	All right all right aright Fuff. I'll remind you that many spy types have killed others with .22s.... you know how the story goes. Any bullet is deadly. I don't mean to put down the .38 S&W, as I noted that I would hate to get hit by one. But since I do not have time to do my own reloads, .38 S&W is just too expensive to shoot. So it is not an effective home defense choice for me. You're absolutely right though, bullet placement is key. __________________ Colt .357 \| Diamondback \| Smith & Wesson 32-1 \| Pre-34 \| 36 \| 37 \| 042 \| 681 Walther PPK/S \| Ruger Speed Six \| H&R M1 Garand \| Springfield M1 Garand Coharie Arms CA89K \| CA94 \| Century C93 \| FAL

June 26, 2008, 03:16 PM	#57
Shade00 Member Join Date: April 29, 2008 Location: Ruston, Louisiana & Jackson, Mississippi Posts: 715	Having it refinished by S&W will help it retain more value than having it refinished by another outfit. However, if you want a hardcore shooter that will stand up to anything, there's nothing wrong with a hard chrome finish. __________________ Colt .357 \| Diamondback \| Smith & Wesson 32-1 \| Pre-34 \| 36 \| 37 \| 042 \| 681 Walther PPK/S \| Ruger Speed Six \| H&R M1 Garand \| Springfield M1 Garand Coharie Arms CA89K \| CA94 \| Century C93 \| FAL

June 27, 2008, 11:29 AM	#60
Shade00 Member Join Date: April 29, 2008 Location: Ruston, Louisiana & Jackson, Mississippi Posts: 715	I'm not certain. I would expect it to be $200-250, though. Someone else may be able to chime in and help here. __________________ Colt .357 \| Diamondback \| Smith & Wesson 32-1 \| Pre-34 \| 36 \| 37 \| 042 \| 681 Walther PPK/S \| Ruger Speed Six \| H&R M1 Garand \| Springfield M1 Garand Coharie Arms CA89K \| CA94 \| Century C93 \| FAL

June 27, 2008, 05:14 PM	#68
avan47 Member Join Date: November 22, 2007 Location: Del Rio, TX Posts: 121	shade00, You got the Mod. 19 about right, but I purchased the Mod 36 prior to Nov of 72. I don't know the exact date. Last edited by Brian Williams; June 27, 2008 at 06:31 PM. Reason: made 71 or 72

June 26, 2008, 12:28 AM	#53
Old Fuff Member Join Date: December 24, 2002 Location: Arizona Posts: 20,532	Well O. K.... This time I'll let you off the hook. But only because I don't generally go for 125 grain full patch .38's going 625 FPS myself. Now go back to work...

June 26, 2008, 12:30 AM	#54
skoro Member Join Date: May 2, 2008 Location: Texas Posts: 1,373	Shade00 - Thanks for the info and sorry for the duplication.

June 26, 2008, 12:38 PM	#55
Oro Member Join Date: September 22, 2007 Location: WA state Posts: 3,475	NG VI Your Patrolman is likely 1971, according to S&W #s compiled elsewhere and an N-gun I have a few thousand away from that.

June 26, 2008, 07:38 PM	#58
Oro Member Join Date: September 22, 2007 Location: WA state Posts: 3,475	Amen on the S&W refinish as Shade00 said. S&W's recent blue work I have seen is outstanding, and cost competitive or cheaper than other outstanding revolver shops. The sandblast/matte blue of the 28 is less expensive than a full polish blue job. Unless I were going to take it routinely out in the rain or snow, or keep it on a boat in saltwater, I would keep it blue. They will be worth more some day. Were I going to use it in either of those scenarios, I would keep it at home and carry a 2.5" or 4" 686 instead.

June 27, 2008, 02:09 PM	#61
zplug123 Member Join Date: April 17, 2008 Posts: 75	Thanks for the info, though now I'm a little confused after looking over my newly-acquired S&W 28-2. The frame has N2279XX, but the cylinder arm has 11558.

June 27, 2008, 02:27 PM	#62
Oro Member Join Date: September 22, 2007 Location: WA state Posts: 3,475	Last I looked, S&W basic blue job was $180. Shipping and transfer back will add $$ (tip, call S&W and pay for a shipping label - much cheaper outbound that way). zplug - legally, the frame is the gun, so that is the # that matters. 1975 or 1976.

June 27, 2008, 03:16 PM	#63
chee-to Member Join Date: January 7, 2004 Location: Salem, Oregon Posts: 9	Mod-64 no dash S&W a. .38 b. 4" tapered c. square e. fixed f. D5254** g. Mod-64 no dash

June 27, 2008, 04:34 PM	#65
Catalina25 Member Join Date: January 28, 2008 Location: east of NYC west of Montauk Pt. Posts: 47	Hey guys and gals I'd like to play the dating game, but all I've got to show is what I've just picked up at gunbroker.com item # 103306899. I would have brought a picture over to here but brother I ain't got a clue. TKM

June 27, 2008, 05:02 PM	#66
Old Fuff Member Join Date: December 24, 2002 Location: Arizona Posts: 20,532	Gee, how do you expect us to get a clue.... But this is The High Road. I predict that you will receive a Smith & Wesson .38 1905 Hand Ejector, 4th. Change also known as the Military & Police. The 4th Change variant was made between 1915 and 1942, within a serial number range running from 241,704 to 999,999. I suspect the serial number (located on the bottom of the butt)of your gun is 490,75x, so it was likely made durring the middle 1920's. The stocks are post-WW2 replacements, and you might find that its been reblued. 6-shot, chambered in .38 Special, and has a 4 inch barrel. If this doesn't turn out to be right, come back...

June 27, 2008, 05:05 PM	#67
JustinL Member Join Date: January 20, 2008 Location: Arlington, VA Posts: 277	Just ouf of curiosity 1. When did S&W switch from the lazy to upright ampersand? 2. When did they change from the flat-latch to the current cylinder release?

June 27, 2008, 05:17 PM	#69
Catalina25 Member Join Date: January 28, 2008 Location: east of NYC west of Montauk Pt. Posts: 47	Old Fuff I thank you much. There are those you may read and post and other who should just read. Guess where I fit in. So Fuff obviously this is a gun with some years but should be safe with standard .38's right? I'll use the March method to give this gun the once over as it's worked well for me in the past. And if you should get the chance might I get some info on another of my K- frames it's a 10, 2inch SB blue serial # 2D76xxx Thanks again TKM

June 27, 2008, 06:02 PM	#70
glock56534 Member Join Date: November 20, 2006 Location: Rocky Mountains Posts: 44	a) .38 S&W Special b) 4" Bull c) Square d) 6 e) fixed rear and front blade f) S/N: 5D932XX g) Model 10-8 It has other numbers on the arm of the crane C9 and 45469. I don't know what these numbers are.

June 27, 2008, 06:28 PM	#71
Old Fuff Member Join Date: December 24, 2002 Location: Arizona Posts: 20,532	Catalina25: If it passes the March test it should be safe to shoot. Heat treated cylinders became available at serial number 316,648 - give or take. Plus-P loads won't blow it up, but the old timer will loosen up pretty quick, and repair parts don't grow on trees.

June 27, 2008, 06:34 PM	#72
Old Fuff Member Join Date: December 24, 2002 Location: Arizona Posts: 20,532	glock56534: S/N: 5D932XX: was made in 1979 The other numbers behind the yoke/crane are assembly numbers and manufacturing codes intended to make sure the right parts get put together after they were blued or plated.

June 27, 2008, 06:36 PM	#73
Brian Williams Moderator Join Date: December 22, 2002 Location: Phnom Penh, Cambodia Posts: 9,361	avan47 your 36 was made 71-72 chee-to Mod-64 no dash S&W a. .38 b. 4" tapered c. square e. fixed f. D5254 g. Mod-64 no dash 1973-74 Catalina25 Model 10 2d76xxx 1977 glock56534 a) .38 S&W Special b) 4" Bull c) Square d) 6 e) fixed rear and front blade f) S/N: 5D932XX g) Model 10-8 1979 __________________ Watch out for the Stobor** A teacher can never truly teach unless they are still learning themselves.

June 27, 2008, 07:42 PM	#74
chee-to Member Join Date: January 7, 2004 Location: Salem, Oregon Posts: 9	Thanks for the info Brian....

June 27, 2008, 08:18 PM	#75
Catalina25 Member Join Date: January 28, 2008 Location: east of NYC west of Montauk Pt. Posts: 47	Old Fuff once again I thank you for the info. I think I'll keep that one as a range gun. I've others more modern for the other things. Brian Williams thanks to you too for dating my minty two inch ten. That one will stay in the safe for a while longer. A word here if you don't mind; Though my I.D. may say I'm a member from only the beginning of the year the truth is I've been viewing from the shadows for much longer. I may spend most of my time here and over at shotgun but I do visit the other forums, especially those at the top of the home page. So I'd like to give a thank you to all of you that are generous with your knowledge. With that said and not to preach I do believe that when keep the education and sharing of information and ideas up, and the rhetoric down, we are clearly at our best. But not only here but out on the streets as well. What we say and how we act directly affects those of the non shooting community and their view towards us. And again thanks to all. Be Cool, Be safe TKM