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Old October 12, 2008, 03:53 PM   #51
Sylvan-Forge
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Insert firing pin with spring. The notched part of the firing pin faces down.:


While holding the firing pin in, insert the firing pin retaining pin. It's only seated with finger pressure and it's done.:


If you decide to install the lock parts, stick the fork in as shown. Since the tang part of the fork was likely bent a little bit during removal, install it with the tang bend facing out to ease spring install. Slide it toward the muzzle with a screwdriver to clear the hole for the lock cam.:


Lock cam slips right in.:


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Old October 12, 2008, 05:32 PM   #52
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Slide the fork against the cam to ease spring install.:


Prop the spring up and catch the fork's tang with it.:


Work the spring onto the tang with your finger or a screwdriver.:


Finish up by pressing the spring down firmly into its recess.:


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Old October 12, 2008, 05:33 PM   #53
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There 'tis. Can you tell I got hold of some stones? Killed a stupid ridge along the slideplate junction!:


Set the locking flag into its recess in the frame. Note the notch (yellow circle); this is where you can stick a needle or safety pin to catch the flag spring and nudge it into the small recessed slot in the frame (red line).:


Cylinder bolt install, pic 1. Stick a little lube in there to help the plunger slide against the frame as the pivot end of the cylinder bolt is lowered into place.:


Cylinder bolt install, pic 2:


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Old October 12, 2008, 05:34 PM   #54
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Cylinder bolt install, pic 3:


Cylinder bolt install, pic 4:


Cylinder bolt install, pic 5:


Cylinder bolt install completed.:


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Old October 12, 2008, 05:35 PM   #55
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Install thumbpiece. Just snug it down, don't torque it :


Set the cylinder stop on its frame pin with the spring captured against the frame.:


Coerced into its place by a deburred flat-head screwdriver.:


A little nudge to the end of the spring to get it sqaure to the stop and it's done.:


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Last edited by Sylvan-Forge; October 12, 2008 at 09:45 PM.
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Old October 12, 2008, 05:36 PM   #56
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Trigger and hand with trigger lever pushed up prior to installation.:


Carefully pull the hand back while installing the trigger on its frame pin.:


So far...:


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Old October 12, 2008, 06:27 PM   #57
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Rear view of rebound slide. S&W did work on this. All edges and corners are rounded and polished smooth.:


Another view of the rear of the rebound slide. Note that the edges on the outside or sideplate side of the rebound slide are unfooledaroundwith. I guess that's just fine so long as there is no edge contact with the sideplate.:


The backside or frame side of the rebound slide was formed with a rounded lower edge and S&W rounded and polished the front corner edges.:


Uh oh.:


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Last edited by Sylvan-Forge; October 12, 2008 at 08:11 PM.
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Old October 12, 2008, 06:29 PM   #58
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Medium-Fine India stone in the background and Fine-Fine India stone in the fore. Schleping some honing oil on.:


Just polishing up the bottom is all :


Not going to go any farther even though those couple low places are bugging me. Go too far and end up with the frame pin striking the rebound slide=ruination! I restrained m'self, thankfully.:


Cleaned up and ready to install. Showing the front of the rebound slide. On the very top is the rebound's hammer seat, in the middle is the nose, on bottom is the socket where the trigger lever ball rides.:


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Last edited by Sylvan-Forge; October 12, 2008 at 08:36 PM.
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Old October 12, 2008, 06:30 PM   #59
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Since things are slicked up, I'm going to go with a lighter rebound spring. (After testing, I switched it for a 12lb. spring. Might even go to an 11lb. later).:


Preparing to use a flat head screwdrive to push the sping in. Got a box set up to catch the spring in case it slips.:


If you hold your mouth just right and say a prayer to the spring god, you can push the rebound down while pushing in with the screwdriver. The rebound's frame pin will push the screwdriver out of the way and the spring will catch against the frame pin (in theory of anyway ). The lower part of the spring's coil is on the post but the top is off, threatening that it will launch itself.:


Using just the lower corner of the screwdriver's tip to push the top part of the coil clear while pushing down on the rebound.:


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Old October 12, 2008, 06:31 PM   #60
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There!


Verifying function and checking that the trigger lever is seated properly in the rebound slide.:


Added some lube.:


Yoke and cylinder into the frame again or hold the thumbpiece back to allow for hammer install.:


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Old October 12, 2008, 06:32 PM   #61
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Hold the trigger back (and thumbpiece if cyl. not in) and install the hammer.:


Hammer installed.:


Hammer stirrup install, pic 1:


Hammer stirrup install; rotate it down to complete.:


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Old October 12, 2008, 06:33 PM   #62
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With the mainspring sorta lying parallel to the frame, finesse the mainspring into the stirrup first, then guide it into the grip.:


With the main spring centered squarely in the grip, tighten down the strain screw.:


Make sure to remove the yoke screw if it's in.:


Hammer block shown in its 'at rest' position. It is set onto the pin that's attached to the rebound slide. Make sure to push it all the way up between the hammer and frame.:


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Old October 12, 2008, 06:35 PM   #63
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It's actually easier to install the sideplate with the gun tilted so that the hammer block does not slip out of its 'at rest' position. If it shifts it will block the sideplate from seating correctly. The hammer block needs to fit within its guideways on the sideplate.

This pic is just to show the tab at the top of the sideplate, which goes into the frame first.

After the top tab is in, press the sideplate in at the yoke screw end, then press it down in the middle while working toward the grip, pressing as you go. If you feel like it's catching, it's probably hitting the hammer block. Pop the plate as shown at the beginning of the thread and try again. If you have a real tight sideplate like I do, practice without the hammer block installed until you get a good feel for it. The shiney metal was from stoning away a ridge on the frame and sideplate.:


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Last edited by Sylvan-Forge; October 14, 2008 at 02:32 AM.
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Old October 14, 2008, 01:58 AM   #64
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Here's a pic of 'er all in one piece.


.

I've taken it down a good four times after dry fire sessions for cleaning n' lube and found a few more things to tinker with, so I'll try and detail those 'fixes' soon.

Hopefully it won't be too long for the forcing cone cut + velocity comparison and I'm looking into using a jig for barrel setback as well as some other nifty jobbers.



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Old October 14, 2008, 02:14 AM   #65
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Awesome! I was pleased to see it finished with the original stocks and T-Grip.

How's it shoot?
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Old October 14, 2008, 02:27 AM   #66
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Thanks rainbowbob!
I haven't shot it since going into it. It will probably bug me to no end to see it hitting to the right so I'll just shoot it through the chrono and not think about hitting anything until I set the barrel back and get the sights lined up proper (they over-torqued the barrel ).

.
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Old November 21, 2008, 03:08 PM   #67
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Great work! I've always wondered how and if I could work on my revolvers.
Have you done anything yet with the shiney metal on the sideplate?
Take Care,
Zac
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Old November 25, 2008, 01:56 AM   #68
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At the feet of a Master.
Do you assemble all the parts dry or is there some lube I do not see?
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Old November 26, 2008, 12:15 AM   #69
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A tip about rebound spring installation I have discovered:

If you don't have the specialized tool, the next best option is a small center punch - one small enough to fit inside the spring cylinder buy not too small so as to pass down the center of the spring. A tapered one works well as it catches on the spring even if the tip is smaller than the spring center. You can depress the spring nicely with this, without fear of your tool sliding or popping out sideways because of the spring tension, losing your spring or scratching your work. Once past the post, you just push it down with your thumb. For those not following, what I am suggesting is a punch like the first one pictured in the Wikipedia entry:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Punch_(engineering)

Thanks for this post - nice job.
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Old November 29, 2008, 06:16 PM   #70
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This was the most informative post I have ever seen on the entire internet. Thank you very much.
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Old December 18, 2008, 07:41 PM   #71
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aHFo3, S&W actually replaced the frame when it was sent in for repair (broken hammer stud) so now it looks great, though I still plan to duracoat it.
Thanks for the compliment.

MartinS, shucks, thanks. I'm always slopping around in ATFluid, so a small amount gets rubbed on the parts during handling.

Oro, I couldn't view the wikipedia page, but it sounds like a good idea, thanks for sharing and your welcome.

boatguy, thanks for that and your welcome.

.

S&W replaced the frame, turned the barrel back proper and recut the forcing cone. Kudos to S&W for treating a customer good.
Probably just as well that I don't get into setting a barrel back without a lathe or experience

Bead blast should be done after Christmas followed by some duracoating

A fellow may be looking for help with the hand spring, which I'll try and detail here.

.

Happy holidays!

.
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Old December 22, 2008, 02:13 AM   #72
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Trigger & Hand Assembly Detail

Shown in red is the short leg of the hand spring.:


Hand spring orientation.:


From the rear of the trigger, the long leg of the hand spring is shown in yellow. It rides in front of the smaller diameter hand pin and is under tension. The short leg of the spring (not shown) is in its recess. The main coils (yellow zig-zag) are set in a cupped seat.:


View of the hand pins and trigger.:


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Old December 22, 2008, 02:16 AM   #73
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Hand spring going in. Guide the short leg into the recess and the main coils into the seat. Note: The spring is retained by its seat in the trigger and the pressure exerted on it by its legs when assembled. There's no pins going through the main coils.:


Using a 1/8" brass punch to align the coils in its seat. Note the long leg is along the right wall in the trigger.:


Some duct tape on a 1x2 holding the hand + lowering the trigger over the hand pins while depressing the long spring leg with the punch. Push the long spring leg in far enough so that it will exert on the smaller diameter hand pin when assembled.:


.

Verify the hand has spring tension directing it toward the front of the trigger. The full fore and aft movement is about 90 degrees. Mine locks in place when when pulled fully aft. I notice the end of the long leg drags on the main hand pin when its in the fore position but this doesn't seem to be a problem.

.

Best regards and merry Christmas to all.


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Last edited by Sylvan-Forge; December 23, 2008 at 04:00 AM. Reason: typo
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Old December 27, 2008, 11:01 PM   #74
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Actually, I take back what I said about setting the barrel back. I could have probably used this:


http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/sto...ail.aspx?p=854
.

Oh well, .. maybe next time

Happy new year!

.
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Old December 28, 2008, 09:51 PM   #75
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Cut Barrel

A four-inch barrel is a little too long for me to mobilize and sit with comfortably, so I decided to hack a little off. I started to look for a nice bandsaw, but right now there's just no room (or money) for it, so I went with using a hacksaw. I bought some fresh blades at the local Northern Tool and ended up only needing to use one blade to get through the barrel. The blade is a Lenox Thin Metal 32 TPI Bi-Metal 232HE. This honey is still sharp too.

I wanted to plug the bore to keep out the chips and ended up putting an X-Ring rubber bullet in backwards a little over 3/4" down the bore.:


I used an LE Wilson case holder for a visual reference and sometimes as a physical guide for helping keep the blade somewhat aligned. A tiny machined square likely would have served better.:


About two-thirds of the way down I started to angle the cut away from the muzzle a bit, but some filing done after this pic set it back to (mostly) square.:


To see if I was done cutting, I cleaned it up, put it back together and toted it around a bit. I was able to sit down without the muzzle hitting the seat. Draw speed and balance are much improved.:


The barrel is about 3.2" now, and will probably be around 3.1" after facing, crowning, some file radiusing and final polishing.

Time to order up the cutters!

(update coming soon)



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