642 Club Part Three - Page 43

Warp · May 27, 2012, 01:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 41

I use unique and the CCI 500's also, but the bullet type determines the load that should be used. I use 125 gr. JHP's so my load will be different than your 158 LSWC. I really like the unique loads though in my 642. You will enjoy reloading.

I am trying to decide on bullets right now. That's just about all that I really have left. Doing lots of searching and reading.

I want some 158gr LSWC for practice in the 642.

Looking at:
http://www.precisiondelta.com/detail...u=B-38-158-SWC

https://kempfgunshop.com//index.php?...mart&Itemid=41

Elkhitman · May 27, 2012, 01:05 PM

Just joined this forum and found this thread, very interesting and a lot of different perspectives and insight into this gun. I bought one about 3 months ago and use it as CCW gun. I did a lot old research of different ammo and decided to go with the Gold Dot Short Barrel. I also bought a box of buffalo bore 158 gr LSWCGC +P, but have been concerned that the BB ammo might be a little to much. Anyway thanks for all the insight, he is a picture of it with a custom Inside the waist band holster my Sgt made for me.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1338138306.954751.jpg

sixgunner455 · May 27, 2012, 01:30 PM

Unique makes good .38 loads, but I mostly use Bullseye, myself. CCI 500, or Federal or Winchester if I can't get CCI, and 3.0-3.5gr Bullseye behind a 158gr lead semi wadcutter. I also use 130gr lead round nose with the same 3.0-3.5gr Bullseye for a lower-recoiling practice load, since I mostly carry 125gr standard pressure Gold Dots in my 642. When I load 125 gr JHP, I put 4.0gr of Bullseye behind it.

For a Unique load under that 158gr lead bullet, I would probably start with 5.0gr.

rdrancher · May 28, 2012, 06:47 PM

Just dropping in to say hello to the Club. My business has been through the roof since the end of last summer. Thankful, but not much time for anything else. I did get a chance to stop by Cabela's a couple months ago and saw that they had Buffalo Bore hard cast wadcutters on sale so I bought all they had. I think I paid about $10 a box.

My trusty 642 still rides in a Mika pocket holster at work each and everyday.

Cheers to all!

YJake · May 28, 2012, 07:29 PM

Still shooting and loving my 442, it goes most anywhere with me.

Can't say enough good things about that Buffalo Bore ammunition... I just bought a Model-10 S&W and want to see what the LSWCHP +P will do out of a 4" tube!

-Jake

Tony_the_tiger · May 30, 2012, 10:07 PM

Picked up another J frame today to keep the 442 company

It's a 640 pro NIB-BNFL, new in box (but not for long) featuring a Mika's IWB holster and Altamont silver-blacks.

DAdams · May 30, 2012, 11:08 PM

Tony that's a bad azz looking 640. I was hoping that the port side didn't have the ILS.
What's your carry round?

sixgunner455 · May 30, 2012, 11:44 PM

I'm liking that in spite of myself. Neat gun.

Tony_the_tiger · May 31, 2012, 12:10 AM

Thanks DAdams and sixgunner455. I intend to test at the range but will probably carry it IWB and load it with buffalo bore's 158 grain SWCHP .38 + P round, keeping Corbon's 125 grain DPX .357 in the moonclips. I'll carry the 442 in a pocket with Speer 135 grain .38 + P gold dots loaded and Corbons 110 grain DPX .38 + P in speedloaders. I believe these are excellent rounds for the caliber and platform.

DAdams · May 31, 2012, 01:20 PM

Good choices on ammo I concur. How do you like the IWB Mika? Iv'e been thinking about one for my (cough M&P 340) J Frame.

Stormin.40 · May 31, 2012, 02:28 PM

Warp,

I can't recommend a load with Unigue as I have never used it, however I can comment on bullets choices. I would recommend using 158gr SWC to start with as that is what you carrry.

I have noticed a fairly significant difference in POI with 125gr and 158gr bullets no matter how hard I push the bullet. I still load a few 125gr really light loads for newer shooters who want to try out a snubnose, but I mainly load 158gr SWC now.

FWIW, I carry 135gr Speer Gold Dot Short Barrel and find the POI to be closer to the 158gr bullet than the 125gr.

Tony_the_tiger · May 31, 2012, 03:06 PM

DAdams, the Mika's IWB holster, much like his well known pocket holsters, is a model of craftsmanship. The clip is very secure and the holster is comfortable. The fit of the firearm is slightly tighter than the pocket holsters for greater retention. I'd recommend this product. In my opinion it is more concealable and form-fitting than a leather belt-loop IWB rig. As you may know it is also significantly cheaper, and Mika provides great customer service, even calling post-order submission to talk about it with you. Since I have a few of Bob's holsters I opted for a change of color (http://www.frontiernet.net/~akim/color.html) and you can see how the chestnut-brown turned out. The main difference between the waistband-holster and the pocket holster is the addition of a secure clip, a smaller holster profile, and no wrap-around or ridged material (smooth finish).

An older IWB (left handed) that I gifted to a friend is below. The one featured in my previous post above is right handed IWB and in current use. Likewise, I still use the pocket holster shown with the 442.

308win · May 31, 2012, 03:28 PM

DA - I have used a Mika IWB for several years. I wear it strong side at 4 o'clock and I had Robert change the cant (more forward) to aid presentation/draw. Like everything else I have gotten from him, well worth the money.

Nematocyst · May 31, 2012, 08:37 PM

Tony, wow! Nice piece.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DA

Iv'e been thinking about one for my (cough M&P 340) J Frame.

Wait! That's heresy. You can't mention that handgun here in the 642 Club.

Where's our Master Sargent at Arms!?

Oh, wait ... DA is our MSAA ...

Never mind. Carry on. Smoke'm if you've got'em.

Warp · May 31, 2012, 09:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stormin.40

Warp,

I can't recommend a load with Unigue as I have never used it, however I can comment on bullets choices. I would recommend using 158gr SWC to start with as that is what you carrry.

I have noticed a fairly significant difference in POI with 125gr and 158gr bullets no matter how hard I push the bullet. I still load a few 125gr really light loads for newer shooters who want to try out a snubnose, but I mainly load 158gr SWC now.

FWIW, I carry 135gr Speer Gold Dot Short Barrel and find the POI to be closer to the 158gr bullet than the 125gr.

I have 2k 158gr SWC on the way from Precision Delta.

Also 500 125gr SJHP (Remington) but I'll save those for fire breathing from the GP100.

Tony_the_tiger · June 4, 2012, 08:00 PM

Took the 640 pro featured earlier on this page out to the range today.

Tested out Corbon DPX 100 grain .38 +P, Corbon DPX 125 grain .357 magnum, Speer Gold Dot 135 grain .38 + P, and Buffalo Bore 158 grain LSWCHP .38 + P.

After about 50 rounds, I had a fail to fire on one of the Buffalo Bore rounds. Before the FTF, I was trying to get the BB rounds to jump crimp by shooting 4 and checking the 5th. I did it 5 times and then loaded all the jumped rounds into a moon clip to see if I could get them to jump some more. Then I went to fire them off... boom...boom... click.... huh? So I remove the rounds and check the primers - nothing. They look just like unfired rounds. So I load some more of the BB rounds into the two empties and fire the whole 5 off no problem. Then I fire it some more no problem.

Still, thats 1 FTF to many. S&W is sending a shipping label. Guess I'm going to have to keep that 442 in my pocket and shove the Gp100 in the holster if I want to IWB anytime soon.

41 · June 4, 2012, 10:53 PM

Quote:

Then I went to fire them off... boom...boom... click.... huh? So I remove the rounds and check the primers - nothing. They look just like unfired rounds

Would the gun have to be out of time for that to happen? If it clicked, unless something was blocking the firing pin, I don't see how it could not have hit the primer.

I'm not questioning that it happened, I just don't understand revolvers that well.

Tony_the_tiger · June 4, 2012, 11:04 PM

Yes it did click and I should specify that the primers on the rounds that fired looked centered and normal. My first thought was blame the moonclip but then I thought about it some more and that didn't make any sense because a bent moonclip could only bring the primer closer to the firing pin. My second thought was that it was a really bad idea to eject the rounds and check the bullet so quickly, I should have waited to make sure it was not a delayed fire. My third thought was to test some more and see what happens. All rounds then fired including the previously ftf round. I didn't save the casing. My fourth thought was maybe the main spring tension loosened or the firing pin is too short. My fifth thought was that since this was my first ftf in over 5000 rounds of revolver shooting and since I'm not a gunsmith to just call s&w who will check it out for me on their dime. Suffice to say I am disappointed but willing to give it a try once it comes back. Since only the BB ammo failed to fire and I don't have enough left to do the same type of testing on it I'll probably make the 125 grain corbon DPX .357 rounds my primary carry in this firearm if I can learn to trust it.

Stainz · June 5, 2012, 06:11 AM

Any chance you slightly pulled the trigger - relaxed - then pulled again, skipping that round and landing on a previously discharged round? I just easily - and repeatedly - duplicated this on my 632 Pro - with it empty. To verify this, make a pencil mark on the empty cylinder at a chamber. Line that chamber up to be 'next', then pull the trigger enough to start the clinder to rotate. Release the trigger. Fully squeeze the trigger - and watch that marked chamber sail past! That would be normal behavior. Obviously, don't partially pull the trigger!

A ftf cartridge will have a small indention in the primer - not unmarked or deep primer dent. When the fp hits the primer, it dents it slightly - just enough to light it off. The discharge recoil slams the cartridge back against the frame's recoil shield, driving the fp deeper into the previously formed primer indention, making the deep dent commonly seen in spent/empty cases. Aditionally, the primer will unseat from it's normal position slightly below the rim to even with the rim - from the case pressure. If the fp hit doesn't light off the primer, a slight dent will be left in the unfired cartridge. It's not unusual for a subseqent hit to light it off - unless it's a dud (ie, dud primer). If you have a propellant-less dud, the primer discharging will generally unseat the bullet enugh to tie up the cylinder.

I would also look carefully under the ejector star for manufacturing crud, carbon, cotton cleaning swipe thread, or even a brass wire bristle from a cleaning brush. It doesn't take much to set the moonclipped round away trom the cylinder, making some of the struck fp's energy be used to push the cartridge/moonclip forward - yielding a ftf. I've had this happen on two 625's - making me cognizant of that fact - and thus keeping a watchful eye for such with my 627's and Governor. Again, a slightly struck primer will have a teeny indentation. You said your cartridge was clean - it had to be skipped.

It isn't my revolver... but if it were, I would shoot a box or two of mild/inexpensive .38 plinkers - moonclipped - at one range trip. If no ftf's, I'd write it off to a 'skipped' round - and not use that return label. Of course, it's your revolver... Good luck!

Stainz

Stainz · June 5, 2012, 06:50 AM

Speaking of my 632 Pro...

Besides the 94/96gr LRNFP .32 S&WLs , 100gr American Eagle (Fed) JSP and Speer 115gr GDJHPs in .327 Federal Magnum, and, of course, .32 H&R Magnums, it will also chamber, fire, and eject .32 S&W and .32 ACP. Perhaps the ultimate pocket protector for the Zombie Apocalypse - or a trip to face-eater territory (Florida!) - easily fed with it's wide palate. Okay, .32 S&W is hard to find... and anemic - find the 'soft spot'. While it fit my spare 642 Mika pocket holster, that one is spoken for. I bought it it's very own leather IWB holster - US made ACE Case from St. Clair, MO - for <$10 at one of those huge case/holster sellers at a local gun show. Like the PC627 UDR, 60 Pro, and Governor - all bought for home defenders - and having great holsters - they sit locked away in the safe. There are two loaded firearms easily accessible in my home: my wife's 2" 10 and my 642 - unless I am not in the house. Both are loaded with Remington R38S12's - 158gr LSWCHP +P's.

Whether walking for excercise, going to the store - or church, or eating out - the 642 is in my pocket. The spare holster is for it, should I wear out my original. Not likely! Boy, I could have saved some moola if I hadn't bought those 'other' revolvers... but where is the fun in that?

Stainz

Tony_the_tiger · June 5, 2012, 11:00 AM

Sweet grips

I havn't seen that one before

RetDep310 · June 5, 2012, 03:45 PM

Tony the tiger: Been thinking about getting a set of the Altamonts for my j-frame. Can ya tell me a little about them as far as fit/finish, speedloader clearance and feel. I have never had the chance to handle a set, and assume you relly like yours. Been thinking about a set of the silver/black ones for my M&P340....thanks.

Tony_the_tiger · June 5, 2012, 05:09 PM

RetDep310, I am a fan of the Altamonts and I chose a smooth finish since checkering seems to dig into my side a bit with IWB carry. I chose the boot grip for its slim profile although they make them a bit longer if you want purchase-hold for your pinky. The fit is excellent and they are snug against the frame. They fit my hands well with a single finger groove although are not large enough for my pinky to grasp - which is similar to other boot grips on J frames like the CT-405's I have on my 442.

They won't do anything at all for you insofar as recoil reduction is concerned and the boot grip exposes the backstrap of the firearm. Dymondwood is engineered wood consisting of approximately 28 - 30 sheets of different species of plywood compressed into a 1" space, then injected with dye to produce the different color patterns and then super-heated or pressurized some more and injected with a phenol-formaldehyde compound. The end result is a glossy, hard product that looks like wood but is as hard as brass. If you intend to sand it or light it on fire you will be exposed to formaldehyde fumes from the resin much like micarta or g10.

The advantage is a wood that is waterproof, will not warp, has unique artistic characteristics, does not impact rare hardwood populations, and if scratched can be buffed out to a perfect finish easily. I chose them because I enjoy the aesthetics of the silver-black dymondwood and because the smooth and firm finish lends itself well to IWB carry. If I hadn't chose altamont I likely would have checked out grips made by esmeralda or something from gemini customs.

There are a few sellers on ebay featuring the altamonts if you're in the market and don't want to wait. Let us know what you decide!

RetDep310 · June 5, 2012, 06:58 PM

tiger...thank you very much for the reply...that pretty well answers the questions I had...didn't expect much in the way of recoil reduction, mostly concerned about fit and finish...thanks!!

Tony_the_tiger · June 5, 2012, 10:13 PM

No problem. I should also mention that HKS speedloaders and moonclips cleared them fine.

May 27, 2012, 01:30 PM	#1053
sixgunner455 Member Join Date: August 25, 2006 Posts: 2,557	Unique makes good .38 loads, but I mostly use Bullseye, myself. CCI 500, or Federal or Winchester if I can't get CCI, and 3.0-3.5gr Bullseye behind a 158gr lead semi wadcutter. I also use 130gr lead round nose with the same 3.0-3.5gr Bullseye for a lower-recoiling practice load, since I mostly carry 125gr standard pressure Gold Dots in my 642. When I load 125 gr JHP, I put 4.0gr of Bullseye behind it. For a Unique load under that 158gr lead bullet, I would probably start with 5.0gr. __________________ Life is too short to hunt with an ugly dog. - me If you can't hit a snake at 20 feet with a 12 gauge, you ain't gonna hit a dove, either. -McGunner

May 28, 2012, 06:47 PM	#1054
rdrancher Member Join Date: August 9, 2007 Location: North Texas Posts: 779	Just dropping in to say hello to the Club. My business has been through the roof since the end of last summer. Thankful, but not much time for anything else. I did get a chance to stop by Cabela's a couple months ago and saw that they had Buffalo Bore hard cast wadcutters on sale so I bought all they had. I think I paid about $10 a box. My trusty 642 still rides in a Mika pocket holster at work each and everyday. Cheers to all! __________________ "Little by little the look of the country changes because of the men we admire." Homer Bannon - Hud 1963 Behind the Barn

May 30, 2012, 11:44 PM	#1058
sixgunner455 Member Join Date: August 25, 2006 Posts: 2,557	I'm liking that in spite of myself. Neat gun. __________________ Life is too short to hunt with an ugly dog. - me If you can't hit a snake at 20 feet with a 12 gauge, you ain't gonna hit a dove, either. -McGunner

May 31, 2012, 12:10 AM	#1059
Tony_the_tiger Member Join Date: January 3, 2011 Posts: 467	Thanks DAdams and sixgunner455. I intend to test at the range but will probably carry it IWB and load it with buffalo bore's 158 grain SWCHP .38 + P round, keeping Corbon's 125 grain DPX .357 in the moonclips. I'll carry the 442 in a pocket with Speer 135 grain .38 + P gold dots loaded and Corbons 110 grain DPX .38 + P in speedloaders. I believe these are excellent rounds for the caliber and platform. Last edited by Tony_the_tiger; May 31, 2012 at 08:56 AM.

May 31, 2012, 03:06 PM	#1062
Tony_the_tiger Member Join Date: January 3, 2011 Posts: 467	DAdams, the Mika's IWB holster, much like his well known pocket holsters, is a model of craftsmanship. The clip is very secure and the holster is comfortable. The fit of the firearm is slightly tighter than the pocket holsters for greater retention. I'd recommend this product. In my opinion it is more concealable and form-fitting than a leather belt-loop IWB rig. As you may know it is also significantly cheaper, and Mika provides great customer service, even calling post-order submission to talk about it with you. Since I have a few of Bob's holsters I opted for a change of color (http://www.frontiernet.net/~akim/color.html) and you can see how the chestnut-brown turned out. The main difference between the waistband-holster and the pocket holster is the addition of a secure clip, a smaller holster profile, and no wrap-around or ridged material (smooth finish). An older IWB (left handed) that I gifted to a friend is below. The one featured in my previous post above is right handed IWB and in current use. Likewise, I still use the pocket holster shown with the 442. Last edited by Tony_the_tiger; May 31, 2012 at 03:33 PM.

May 27, 2012, 01:05 PM	#1052
Elkhitman Member Join Date: March 2, 2012 Location: Ca Posts: 1	Just joined this forum and found this thread, very interesting and a lot of different perspectives and insight into this gun. I bought one about 3 months ago and use it as CCW gun. I did a lot old research of different ammo and decided to go with the Gold Dot Short Barrel. I also bought a box of buffalo bore 158 gr LSWCGC +P, but have been concerned that the BB ammo might be a little to much. Anyway thanks for all the insight, he is a picture of it with a custom Inside the waist band holster my Sgt made for me. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1338138306.954751.jpg

May 28, 2012, 07:29 PM	#1055
YJake Member Join Date: June 2, 2010 Posts: 132	Still shooting and loving my 442, it goes most anywhere with me. Can't say enough good things about that Buffalo Bore ammunition... I just bought a Model-10 S&W and want to see what the LSWCHP +P will do out of a 4" tube! -Jake

May 30, 2012, 10:07 PM	#1056
Tony_the_tiger Member Join Date: January 3, 2011 Posts: 467	Picked up another J frame today to keep the 442 company It's a 640 pro NIB-BNFL, new in box (but not for long) featuring a Mika's IWB holster and Altamont silver-blacks.

May 31, 2012, 02:28 PM	#1061
Stormin.40 Member Join Date: February 17, 2011 Posts: 272	Warp, I can't recommend a load with Unigue as I have never used it, however I can comment on bullets choices. I would recommend using 158gr SWC to start with as that is what you carrry. I have noticed a fairly significant difference in POI with 125gr and 158gr bullets no matter how hard I push the bullet. I still load a few 125gr really light loads for newer shooters who want to try out a snubnose, but I mainly load 158gr SWC now. FWIW, I carry 135gr Speer Gold Dot Short Barrel and find the POI to be closer to the 158gr bullet than the 125gr.

May 31, 2012, 03:28 PM	#1063
308win Member Join Date: June 23, 2003 Location: Ohio - The Heart of it All Posts: 2,883	DA - I have used a Mika IWB for several years. I wear it strong side at 4 o'clock and I had Robert change the cant (more forward) to aid presentation/draw. Like everything else I have gotten from him, well worth the money. __________________ "Treason doth never prosper, what's the reason? For if it prosper, none dare call it treason." Sir John Harrington "I just do what the little voices tell me." Me "I've traveled a long way and some of the roads weren't paved." Unknown Lobbyist (n): Person with a masters degree in bribery. B.C. (Hart) "I didn't lose it I just forgot where I put it." My Wife "Never corner anything that you know is meaner than you." Unknown

June 4, 2012, 08:00 PM	#1066
Tony_the_tiger Member Join Date: January 3, 2011 Posts: 467	Took the 640 pro featured earlier on this page out to the range today. Tested out Corbon DPX 100 grain .38 +P, Corbon DPX 125 grain .357 magnum, Speer Gold Dot 135 grain .38 + P, and Buffalo Bore 158 grain LSWCHP .38 + P. After about 50 rounds, I had a fail to fire on one of the Buffalo Bore rounds. Before the FTF, I was trying to get the BB rounds to jump crimp by shooting 4 and checking the 5th. I did it 5 times and then loaded all the jumped rounds into a moon clip to see if I could get them to jump some more. Then I went to fire them off... boom...boom... click.... huh? So I remove the rounds and check the primers - nothing. They look just like unfired rounds. So I load some more of the BB rounds into the two empties and fire the whole 5 off no problem. Then I fire it some more no problem. Still, thats 1 FTF to many. S&W is sending a shipping label. Guess I'm going to have to keep that 442 in my pocket and shove the Gp100 in the holster if I want to IWB anytime soon.

June 4, 2012, 11:04 PM	#1068
Tony_the_tiger Member Join Date: January 3, 2011 Posts: 467	Yes it did click and I should specify that the primers on the rounds that fired looked centered and normal. My first thought was blame the moonclip but then I thought about it some more and that didn't make any sense because a bent moonclip could only bring the primer closer to the firing pin. My second thought was that it was a really bad idea to eject the rounds and check the bullet so quickly, I should have waited to make sure it was not a delayed fire. My third thought was to test some more and see what happens. All rounds then fired including the previously ftf round. I didn't save the casing. My fourth thought was maybe the main spring tension loosened or the firing pin is too short. My fifth thought was that since this was my first ftf in over 5000 rounds of revolver shooting and since I'm not a gunsmith to just call s&w who will check it out for me on their dime. Suffice to say I am disappointed but willing to give it a try once it comes back. Since only the BB ammo failed to fire and I don't have enough left to do the same type of testing on it I'll probably make the 125 grain corbon DPX .357 rounds my primary carry in this firearm if I can learn to trust it.

June 5, 2012, 06:11 AM	#1069
Stainz Member Join Date: April 24, 2003 Location: Pinson, AL Posts: 3,022	Any chance you slightly pulled the trigger - relaxed - then pulled again, skipping that round and landing on a previously discharged round? I just easily - and repeatedly - duplicated this on my 632 Pro - with it empty. To verify this, make a pencil mark on the empty cylinder at a chamber. Line that chamber up to be 'next', then pull the trigger enough to start the clinder to rotate. Release the trigger. Fully squeeze the trigger - and watch that marked chamber sail past! That would be normal behavior. Obviously, don't partially pull the trigger! A ftf cartridge will have a small indention in the primer - not unmarked or deep primer dent. When the fp hits the primer, it dents it slightly - just enough to light it off. The discharge recoil slams the cartridge back against the frame's recoil shield, driving the fp deeper into the previously formed primer indention, making the deep dent commonly seen in spent/empty cases. Aditionally, the primer will unseat from it's normal position slightly below the rim to even with the rim - from the case pressure. If the fp hit doesn't light off the primer, a slight dent will be left in the unfired cartridge. It's not unusual for a subseqent hit to light it off - unless it's a dud (ie, dud primer). If you have a propellant-less dud, the primer discharging will generally unseat the bullet enugh to tie up the cylinder. I would also look carefully under the ejector star for manufacturing crud, carbon, cotton cleaning swipe thread, or even a brass wire bristle from a cleaning brush. It doesn't take much to set the moonclipped round away trom the cylinder, making some of the struck fp's energy be used to push the cartridge/moonclip forward - yielding a ftf. I've had this happen on two 625's - making me cognizant of that fact - and thus keeping a watchful eye for such with my 627's and Governor. Again, a slightly struck primer will have a teeny indentation. You said your cartridge was clean - it had to be skipped. It isn't my revolver... but if it were, I would shoot a box or two of mild/inexpensive .38 plinkers - moonclipped - at one range trip. If no ftf's, I'd write it off to a 'skipped' round - and not use that return label. Of course, it's your revolver... Good luck! Stainz

June 5, 2012, 06:50 AM	#1070
Stainz Member Join Date: April 24, 2003 Location: Pinson, AL Posts: 3,022	Speaking of my 632 Pro... Besides the 94/96gr LRNFP .32 S&WLs , 100gr American Eagle (Fed) JSP and Speer 115gr GDJHPs in .327 Federal Magnum, and, of course, .32 H&R Magnums, it will also chamber, fire, and eject .32 S&W and .32 ACP. Perhaps the ultimate pocket protector for the Zombie Apocalypse - or a trip to face-eater territory (Florida!) - easily fed with it's wide palate. Okay, .32 S&W is hard to find... and anemic - find the 'soft spot'. While it fit my spare 642 Mika pocket holster, that one is spoken for. I bought it it's very own leather IWB holster - US made ACE Case from St. Clair, MO - for <$10 at one of those huge case/holster sellers at a local gun show. Like the PC627 UDR, 60 Pro, and Governor - all bought for home defenders - and having great holsters - they sit locked away in the safe. There are two loaded firearms easily accessible in my home: my wife's 2" 10 and my 642 - unless I am not in the house. Both are loaded with Remington R38S12's - 158gr LSWCHP +P's. Whether walking for excercise, going to the store - or church, or eating out - the 642 is in my pocket. The spare holster is for it, should I wear out my original. Not likely! Boy, I could have saved some moola if I hadn't bought those 'other' revolvers... but where is the fun in that? Stainz

June 5, 2012, 11:00 AM	#1071
Tony_the_tiger Member Join Date: January 3, 2011 Posts: 467	Sweet grips I havn't seen that one before

June 5, 2012, 03:45 PM	#1072
RetDep310 Member Join Date: August 6, 2009 Location: Indiana Posts: 100	Tony the tiger: Been thinking about getting a set of the Altamonts for my j-frame. Can ya tell me a little about them as far as fit/finish, speedloader clearance and feel. I have never had the chance to handle a set, and assume you relly like yours. Been thinking about a set of the silver/black ones for my M&P340....thanks.

June 5, 2012, 05:09 PM	#1073
Tony_the_tiger Member Join Date: January 3, 2011 Posts: 467	RetDep310, I am a fan of the Altamonts and I chose a smooth finish since checkering seems to dig into my side a bit with IWB carry. I chose the boot grip for its slim profile although they make them a bit longer if you want purchase-hold for your pinky. The fit is excellent and they are snug against the frame. They fit my hands well with a single finger groove although are not large enough for my pinky to grasp - which is similar to other boot grips on J frames like the CT-405's I have on my 442. They won't do anything at all for you insofar as recoil reduction is concerned and the boot grip exposes the backstrap of the firearm. Dymondwood is engineered wood consisting of approximately 28 - 30 sheets of different species of plywood compressed into a 1" space, then injected with dye to produce the different color patterns and then super-heated or pressurized some more and injected with a phenol-formaldehyde compound. The end result is a glossy, hard product that looks like wood but is as hard as brass. If you intend to sand it or light it on fire you will be exposed to formaldehyde fumes from the resin much like micarta or g10. The advantage is a wood that is waterproof, will not warp, has unique artistic characteristics, does not impact rare hardwood populations, and if scratched can be buffed out to a perfect finish easily. I chose them because I enjoy the aesthetics of the silver-black dymondwood and because the smooth and firm finish lends itself well to IWB carry. If I hadn't chose altamont I likely would have checked out grips made by esmeralda or something from gemini customs. There are a few sellers on ebay featuring the altamonts if you're in the market and don't want to wait. Let us know what you decide! Last edited by Tony_the_tiger; June 5, 2012 at 10:13 PM.

June 5, 2012, 06:58 PM	#1074
RetDep310 Member Join Date: August 6, 2009 Location: Indiana Posts: 100	tiger...thank you very much for the reply...that pretty well answers the questions I had...didn't expect much in the way of recoil reduction, mostly concerned about fit and finish...thanks!!

June 5, 2012, 10:13 PM	#1075
Tony_the_tiger Member Join Date: January 3, 2011 Posts: 467	No problem. I should also mention that HKS speedloaders and moonclips cleared them fine.