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Old January 5, 2014, 10:29 PM   #1126
avatarshots
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BowerR64 are you using stock nipples with #10 caps? Or custom? And is the a Uberti?
I'm asking because I tried out my Uberti 58 Remy stainless steel target model and found the #11 Remington and CCI caps were too large to stay on the nipples
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Old January 5, 2014, 11:25 PM   #1127
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Celem: I bought nipples for my ROA and they state they were designed for CCI #11's. Great I thought because the CCI #11 mags often took 2 strikes to set off. Still did though, and found there's obviously a difference between magnums and non.

But the Rem #10's work great! So I assume a Rem #10 and a CCI #11 standard must be quite similar.
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Old January 5, 2014, 11:47 PM   #1128
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Take a look at the chart below. The opening diameter is what to look for.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c8...e/CapSizes.jpg

Quote:
Originally Posted by rodwha View Post
Celem: I bought nipples for my ROA and they state they were designed for CCI #11's. Great I thought because the CCI #11 mags often took 2 strikes to set off. Still did though, and found there's obviously a difference between magnums and non.

But the Rem #10's work great! So I assume a Rem #10 and a CCI #11 standard must be quite similar.
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Old January 5, 2014, 11:57 PM   #1129
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I'm not sure how to look at it. Is it the opening diameter that grabs and holds onto the nipples or is it the diameter near the priming compound? Or could it be either?

I'm guessing the CCI #11 is a standard size? Maybe no magnums during that period?
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Old January 5, 2014, 11:59 PM   #1130
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I've been wanting to try a tin of CCI #10's and standard #11's but it seems nobody has had any, and I'm not willing to order 10 at a time, although my Lyman's eats everything I've given it. Stronger spring I suppose.
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Old January 6, 2014, 02:20 AM   #1131
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rodwha, I have found that on stock Pietta nipples that the CCI #11 will fall off and the #10 fit just fine. I have never tried the CCI #11mag. Remington same story although a bit tighter with the #10. RWS seem to be about a #10 and a half but work fine if pinched or if ya bugger up the nipples a bit so they grab on. That has been my experience anyway.
Hope that may help.
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Old January 6, 2014, 03:49 PM   #1132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Backwoods
Wayne-O
KBBailey is right! That's a spectacular loading stand.

But I have to wonder about the box/case behind it in the picture. Looks like another nice bit of gear. What is that? And is there a pic of it we could see?

Don in Ohio
The box is my shooting box, a wooden barn that I rescued from the dumpster. It was a child's toy, I believe, and needed some re-construction and design to work for a shooting box. After a little work it now holds everything I need to shoot. The stable doors slide back and forth to gain access to balls, powder, caps, etc. and in the loft I have misc. tools and accoutrements.

Seems to work pretty well for me.







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File Type: jpg 013.jpg (187.6 KB, 563 views)
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Old January 6, 2014, 05:11 PM   #1133
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That is way too cool!
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Old January 16, 2014, 05:03 PM   #1134
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A question for 1858 historians. Did originales come with cylinders in the white or blue?
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Old January 16, 2014, 05:09 PM   #1135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elhombreconnonombre View Post
A question for 1858 historians. Did originales come with cylinders in the white or blue?
Blue!
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Old January 16, 2014, 06:21 PM   #1136
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Originally Posted by avatarshots View Post
BowerR64 are you using stock nipples with #10 caps? Or custom? And is the a Uberti?
I'm asking because I tried out my Uberti 58 Remy stainless steel target model and found the #11 Remington and CCI caps were too large to stay on the nipples
Yeah i tried em all and the #10 remingtons worked the best.

I did the pinch the cap thing for a while at first because caps were not easy to find but now im not having any problems finding them so i can get what works right.

Ive had a couple that had nipples slightly to large and i put them in a drill and filed them down to fit the #10 remingtons. They fit all my gins now i dont need any other size.
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Old January 16, 2014, 06:28 PM   #1137
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Thanks HH, just wondering since I saw One One time in a museum with an unblued cylinder.
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Old January 16, 2014, 07:08 PM   #1138
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Delete
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On patrol and cold camping tonight with Cap'n Yack and Flacco on the Pinta Trail under a Comanche Moon near Enchanted Rock...out of cell phone range

God Bless John Wayne, Clint Eastwood, Errol Flynn, Randolph Scott, and Val Forgett Jr.

Last edited by elhombreconnonombre; January 16, 2014 at 07:09 PM. Reason: delete
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Old January 16, 2014, 07:13 PM   #1139
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Can I play too? I can't take pictures, but I have a few.
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Old January 17, 2014, 08:53 AM   #1140
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Originally Posted by elhombreconnonombre View Post
Thanks HH, just wondering since I saw One One time in a museum with an unblued cylinder.
I have an original that was converted at the Whitneyville Armory. I can tell you that the reblue on the cylinder is quite a bit thinner than the rest of the revolver. Was the one you saw a cap and ball still?
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Old January 17, 2014, 10:06 AM   #1141
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HH
Yes, it was a cb. In fact if you do a wikipedia search there is a pic of the 1863 NMA in a French military museum with a cylinder in the white.
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Old January 20, 2014, 01:20 AM   #1142
maubrey
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Remington 1858 New Model Police Revolver?

Hi guys. New member to THR and not that familiar with firearms generally.

I recently inherited this revolver which I *think* is a Remington 1858 New Model Police with a 4.5" barrel, in very poor condition. Do you agree?







As you can see, the retainer pin in the barrel is loose and falls out and there's a lot of rust.

From poking around, it sounds like it's not worth very much. If that's the case, I was thinking about experimenting with some electrolysis to remove some of the rust. Bad idea? Any suggestions?

Thanks!
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Old January 20, 2014, 01:59 AM   #1143
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Lyman kit my Dad builtin the 70s-80s, he tried to blue the frame 5 different time and it always turned purple so he gave up and stuffed it back into a box and hid it under his night stand and it sat there for 25-30 years.

The action parts are a little rough compared to newer pietta guns i have but its a heck of a shooter.



I shot it today and it shot WAY better this time.

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Old January 20, 2014, 07:42 AM   #1144
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maubrey,

That is really nice in my book. I might get in touch with pohill and a few others on THR BP before I did anything to that gun. There are guys here who have brought guns in that sort of condition back to life as shooters.

I considered doing the old "that is only good for a paper weight, send it to me and I will take it off your hands for free" joke that seems standard issue for such finds around here, but as you are new I feared you might believe me.....that is deffinately a keeper.

Is there any family history or story to go with it?

-kBob
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Old January 20, 2014, 03:10 PM   #1145
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Thanks, kBob, I'll do that.

I have no history for it, unfortunately.
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Old January 22, 2014, 12:51 AM   #1146
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Ideal barrel length?

Just read some ballisticss charts and from them, the 5 1/2"using a lead ball, 35 gr of Pyrodex shot harder and faster than the same set-up and load in an 8"!
So is the shorter barrel near the ideal length for BP?
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Old January 22, 2014, 12:23 PM   #1147
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ZVP,
Nope. There are a lot of variables between guns: maybe the longer barrel had a wider cylinder gap, smaller chambers causing gas blowby down the barrel, different nipple flash hole size, powder less compacted, etc.
Now, if they had taken a gun with the 8" barrel and sawed off an inch each time to compare velocities then you would eliminate a lot of the variables other than loading technique. The longer barrel usually gives higher velocity (up to a point) with any given BP load. If they were shooting 5 grain loads then maybe the short barrel would give a higher velocity but in general, not all the powder is burned before the ball exits the barrel. The longer barrel contains the burn longer and lets the ball accelerate for a few more nanoseconds..
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Old January 25, 2014, 01:52 AM   #1148
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Originally Posted by avatarshots View Post
Is there a way to make the #11's STAY on the nipple other than pinching them?
Yep. Don't use #11s. They don't fit.
Use Remington #10s and join the Happy Campers Club.
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Old January 25, 2014, 03:23 PM   #1149
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I looked at a gun with a three line marking on the upper barrel flat.

top line was two 1858 patents
next E. Remington&Sons Illion.....
then New Model

It seemed to have no other marks. the front sight was a blade on a round base appearently set into the top flat and the loading lever was rounded on the part toward the muzzle and was also a round base set into the barrel rather than dove tailed

Only other markings I saw were the Letter "R" in a few places.

It appeared to be a .44 but I no longer carry my old muzzle gauge on my key chain

Any idea what I was looking at.

The grips were lovely burrled wood and appeared newer than the gun or darn well maintained.

The tag read $1999.00 and it was a consignment piece.

Same store I saw a guy giving up on selling a very nice 50-70 trapdoor with cleaning rod and bayonet and box of modern ammo and taking it home from the shop. Never did get an answer on what he really wanted....actually think it was the same guy I saw a few years ago with a Mississippi rifle in exactly the same situation at another shop......

So, The high point of my yarding today was not a yard but a pawn shop.....Though I did pick up a holster of un know use and a kitchen sharpening stone I thought was cute at a flea market.....actually saw no private yard sales at all today......guess everyone paid of Christmas debts early this year!

-kBob
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Old January 25, 2014, 08:25 PM   #1150
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Be careful! I am aware of at least one New Model Army that was made in Italy but had a genuine Remington barrel installed. For obvious reasons it was like new, and the buyer (who was no expert) was taken to the cleaners.
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