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Old July 26, 2012, 11:23 PM   #26
Noah
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Quote:
Do not put anything else metal in there. You'll only succeed in damaging your bore! Call your local smith he'll know how to get it out.
Time to find and make acquaintance with the closest smith then! Added to the to-do tomorrow....

If I got it started from the chamber with a dowel would it pull through more easily? It's only a 5.45 so any dowel would be a thin one. And the receiver prevents straight access to the barrel from the rear.

Is a sub 16" barrel legal?

I have few metal-working tools and this is my only semi-auto rifle, although I have a Hi-Point carbine for back-up defense at least, I'm not willing to risk modifying the barrel and ruining all accuracy permanently. I have lots to try before I'd do that, and I'd seek professional help instead of going there, sorry.
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Old July 26, 2012, 11:24 PM   #27
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A good carbon fiber rod might work or it might just pack it in there harder. I would try a good cleaning rod from the muzzle end tapping not pushing.
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Old July 26, 2012, 11:27 PM   #28
Noah
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I have access to an air compressor with such an attachment. Might work and couldn't hurt, thanks!

Because of the snake in the barrel, I'm concerned that a rod from the muzzle wouldn't fit. Even my air gun/ rimfire rod won't fit down the barrel with the snake in there.
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Old July 26, 2012, 11:28 PM   #29
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fishing hook?
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Old July 26, 2012, 11:29 PM   #30
Noah
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There is no room for a hook, unfortunately...
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Old July 26, 2012, 11:31 PM   #31
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Wow, that sucks. Put o good deal of CLP down from the muzzle end and let it soak for a few hours. Then find a good source of compressed air - a Power Tank for refilling offroad tires would be ideal. Use the 'spray' nozzle wrapped in teflon or duct tape and hit it. If that doesnt work, burn it out.
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Old July 26, 2012, 11:34 PM   #32
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Would a 150 PSI power tool compressor do? No clue what a truck tire compressor is like.
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Old July 26, 2012, 11:35 PM   #33
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An air fitting on the muzzle end is going to do nothing but blow air out of the gas port. Unless you plan on somehow blocking, and then unblocking it.


You'd have to pull the gas block off and clamp the port shut. I'm guessing that's probably more work than you'd be able to do. And is probably more work than is necessary. Cleaning rod will knock it out if you just give it a try...
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Old July 26, 2012, 11:39 PM   #34
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Ha! The gas port! Duh!

Man, I'm having detail issues today. First the 12ga patch. And now this.
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Old July 26, 2012, 11:40 PM   #35
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With the snake hanging out one end and a patch crammed in the other, I don't see how you would be able to seal the air pressure in enough to blow it out, and I doubt 150 psi would do it. If you could get it to seal, it would be worth a try though. I'm thinking you may need to heat it enough to soften the nylon snake but not enough to change the barrel. I think I would try forcing it through the way it started before doing much else. If that doesn't work, you'll break the snake and then you know it's time to go to plan B.
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Old July 26, 2012, 11:41 PM   #36
R H Clark
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I would empty a shells worth of powder and ignite it to burn away the patch.The quick flash burn should not hurt your bore.The hardest part will be an ignition source. Fuses from fire works would likely work.You might have to do it several times and pick away the burnt pieces before it gets small enough to pull on through.
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Old July 26, 2012, 11:41 PM   #37
Onward Allusion
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Brass screw tied to a nylon string/thin rope. Drive the screw into the bore-snake and pull out with the string/rope.
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Old July 26, 2012, 11:42 PM   #38
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Always seems to me dry patches go in a bore a lot easier than ones soaked in fluid. I'd get everything real dry with a hair dryer or something then proceed further. Smaller jawed pair of needle nose, or perhaps a pair of forceps? Maybe a wooden dowel, force it back out the way it came? I half like the idea of lighting the patch on fire.
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Old July 26, 2012, 11:44 PM   #39
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Give it to a 6-yr old boy. Tell him that under NO circumstances is he to EVER remove that wad in the barrel.... come back in about 15 minutes.

ETA: be sure to ask how he did it. we'll want to know.
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Old July 26, 2012, 11:44 PM   #40
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You might also fashion a small brass hook from a brass rod from a hardware or welding supply.You can get one from a knife supply if you have to.Brass will not be hard enough to hurt your bore.
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Old July 26, 2012, 11:49 PM   #41
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Been there done that. Putting a rod down the bore, soaking in solvent, compressed air.. none of this will work.

The only thing that will is to pull it out backwards of the way it went in, which means a drywall screw and a pair of hemostats. I highly recommend taking an empty case and filling it with JB weld, drilling a bore hole through it to insert the drywall screw then turn it into the patch and pull it out.

If it gets messed up in the chamber it can be cleaned up with a reamer.

Good luck.
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Old July 26, 2012, 11:53 PM   #42
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Well, at this point I think I'll let it dry overnight, try pulling it, then try pushing it, then try burning the patch.

Assuming simpler options don't work, would burning or a screw be a better choice?
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Old July 26, 2012, 11:55 PM   #43
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Get a larger brass rod and tap the end with course threads and file a point on it.Bend the other end 90 degrees for a handle.Turn that into your patch and pull it out.
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Old July 26, 2012, 11:56 PM   #44
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How about a Dremel with a flexible shaft, a small bit and a steady hand. Keep increasing the size until it is diminished somewhat, then push it out.
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Old July 26, 2012, 11:59 PM   #45
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I don't have tools to tap a rod or a Dremel.

I'm ok with tools but I'm no gunsmith. Converting this Saiga is by far the most advanced and expensive work I've done-- and I left the original fore arm and didn't thread the muzzle.
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Old July 27, 2012, 12:09 AM   #46
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Now I have it!! Go down to home Depot and buy a brass wood screw and all threaded rod as large as you can and still have it fit in the bore. Stop by your local welding or machine shop and get them to weld-braze the screw on the rod.Also have them to heat and bend the other end for a handle. All together it should cost you less than $30.As long as their weld holds you are in business.

You could buy the larger rod and tap and do it as I first suggested and there would be no possibility of breaking it as long as you didn't twist it in half, but the rod and tap would be more expensive.
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Old July 27, 2012, 12:51 AM   #47
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Take a piece of filler rod or even an old metal coat hanger and heat it red and burn it out of there.

I can't wrap my head around adding a patch to something that is a great big patch.

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Old July 27, 2012, 01:54 AM   #48
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Stop adding fluid, that will only make things swell.

I would take off the gas tube, stick your finger in it to block the air and then use an air compressor from the muzzle. Make sure you have a tight seal.

A hot coat hanger to burn/melt it out sounds like a good idea too.
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Old July 27, 2012, 02:16 AM   #49
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Heat or cold, depending on swelling of the materials? Freezer or oven (just the barrel)?

I'd try a wood dowel and beat on that darn thing with a rubber mallet.

I also agree that maybe you just pour some flamable liquid on it and burn it out. Some temporary heat shouldn't damage the steel.

Remove the plastic stock though.
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Old July 27, 2012, 03:24 AM   #50
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Bend a metal coat hanger and push it back out, heat and ice would temper the barrel and make it fragile, and i have got a question, why a patch?, i have broke a snake in a barrel before, your gonna need a rod to get it out
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