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Old July 27, 2012, 04:01 AM   #51
Lloyd Smale
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Id trry soaking it real well with kroil or wd40 and then sitting it out in the sun till the barrel gets good and hot.
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Old July 27, 2012, 04:38 AM   #52
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Battery acid eats cotton. It also eats blueing.
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Old July 27, 2012, 04:40 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Texan Scott View Post
Give it to a 6-yr old boy. Tell him that under NO circumstances is he to EVER remove that wad in the barrel.... come back in about 15 minutes.

ETA: be sure to ask how he did it. we'll want to know.
This.
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Old July 27, 2012, 04:53 AM   #54
10-96
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DO NOT put anything wooden in there. It can splinter, split, swell, and cause a whole other obstruction problem. It's a Saiga- so a solid brass or SS cleaning rod won't hardly effect anything either unless the crown gets damaged- but more than likely, all pounding from the muzzle will accomplish will be to pack bore snake tighter.

They make deck screws that are long enough to screw in just a tad, pull out, and repeat process until the fibers break up. Or, dig away at it with a scalpel type hobby knife.
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Old July 27, 2012, 06:04 AM   #55
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A small electric or butane fired soldering iron will burn that patch out in no time.
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Old July 27, 2012, 06:50 AM   #56
Mr.510
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I'd just use fire and burn/melt the snake out of there. The barrel is chrome lined steel. You have to heat most steels way past 1000 degrees and then cool them rapidly to screw up their temper. A Saiga barrel is not air-hardening tool steel so as long as you let it air cool it will be fine. No worries of too much heat if you just use a cigarette lighter for a minute. It's a Saiga, a little fire isn't gonna hurt it!
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Old July 27, 2012, 07:10 AM   #57
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I agree with the heated coat hanger / paper clip to burn and or melt through the patch and or snake loop. Least chance of damage to anything else.
Good luck and report back!
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Old July 27, 2012, 07:26 AM   #58
LJ-MosinFreak-Buck
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At least it's not a brass rod that, for the life of me, I can't get out.


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Old July 27, 2012, 08:23 AM   #59
G.barnes
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like esoxchaser said a small butane torch or lighter will burn it right out of there. nylon is plastic covered string. it'll take a little to melt the plastic then the cord will burn and break. you will have to make sure all the plastic is completly cleaned out of the chamber
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Old July 27, 2012, 08:24 AM   #60
Noah
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Thanks for all the help guys.

As to why I used a patch, I usually use a small patch when cleaning it as a visual indicator to show when the bore is clean. I got the snake along with the rifle a couple months ago and didn't like how there wasn't an indicator as to when the bore was free of residue (IE a clean or dirty patch). Using a 12ga patch instead of a rimfire one was just a dumb mistake born out of not paying enough attention.
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Old July 27, 2012, 08:40 AM   #61
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Twist. Take the top of the snake and start twisting. Twist the snake as long as you can and as the twisting compresses the snake, pull. this will work. Throw some oil in there if you want. But try twisting.
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Old July 27, 2012, 08:54 AM   #62
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Two ideas,
First I would try the wooden dowel from the muzzle end. Second I would use a wine cork remover to get some of the nylon out. Ideally, you would want both approaches at the same time, but that involves several pairs of hands.

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Old July 27, 2012, 10:23 AM   #63
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Between my dad and I, we got it out after another hour of effort. We tried a lighter to heat it, tried heating some wire to burn it, tried getting a screw into the packed wad. The first and second didn't do anything for lack of heat, and the receiver blocked us from getting straight at the chamber from the rear.

What did eventually work was applying a propane blow torch to the chamber for near two minutes then playing tug of war with the boresnake and rifle. It came out, the patch mostly gone and the loop slightly melted at the very back. There is no visible damage. or even any visible residue.

After it cools a bit (barrel trunnion and beginning of the barrel are hot to the touch) I'll clean it. Too bad I can't use my convenient boresnake

At least I have a conventional cleaning kit
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Old July 27, 2012, 10:24 AM   #64
R H Clark
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I would not use a wodden dowell.I've heard a bunch of stories of wodden dowels stuck in barrels.
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Old July 27, 2012, 10:33 AM   #65
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Putting a patch in that loop is something I never heard of. Do others do this? I have used these snakes for 'quick cleans' for years and just assumed the loop was to be used (by those that wanted to) for hanging the snake on a hook or nail when not in use. I really don't think the manufacturer intended the loop to be used with a patch! Sounds like a recipe for disaster (as the OP is facing).
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Old July 27, 2012, 10:55 AM   #66
Noah
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Using a patch in the loop was a mistake that I won't repeat. I wouldn't reccomend that anyone else does it either

The gun is cleaned, functioning, reassembled, and locked up back in the safe.
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Old July 27, 2012, 11:17 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noah
The gun is cleaned, functioning, reassembled, and locked up back in the safe.
Nice work.
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Old July 27, 2012, 02:52 PM   #68
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End of a steel rod heated white hot and applied a couple times will burn the obstruction out.
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Old July 27, 2012, 03:21 PM   #69
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This sounds like something I have been guilty of a couple (dozen) times. Mostly when working on vehicles of some sort, but all the same... :-P

I've used boresnakes for several years, and I always figured the loop was for increased surface area and tension to drag loose material and liquids down the bore. I tend to wet the loop on my last pass through, in order to apply oil to the bore. It is kinda annoying to not have a clean check, but most weapons that don't shoot milsurp ammo don't require that level of detail attention anyhow.
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Old July 27, 2012, 03:41 PM   #70
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I wouldn't do anything that pushes on the bore snake. pushing on it will make it thicker.
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Old July 27, 2012, 04:08 PM   #71
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Quote:
What did eventually work was applying a propane blow torch to the chamber for near two minutes then playing tug of war with the boresnake and rifle. It came out, the patch mostly gone and the loop slightly melted at the very back. There is no visible damage. or even any visible residue.
Whoa...you may have permanently weakened your rifle's chamber.
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Old July 27, 2012, 04:34 PM   #72
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As long as he let it air-cool he should be okay.


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Old July 27, 2012, 04:35 PM   #73
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The screw idea seems like it should work. I'd use a brass screw. If your careful you might be able to relieve some of the pressure on the material by drilling some of it out with a small drill bit.

Last edited by Roadking Rider; July 27, 2012 at 04:41 PM.
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Old July 27, 2012, 06:41 PM   #74
animator
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Onward Allusion View Post
Whoa...you may have permanently weakened your rifle's chamber.
Not a chance in hell. Propane won't get hot enough to temper the metal, especially not an area as thick as a barrel chamber, and not for such a short duration.


It will be fine.


Something to think about - A 30-round mag dump in full-auto will heat a barrel up as hot or hotter than that propane torch will. A full drum will heat it enough to smoke the wood. In either case, the barrel is fine.
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Old July 27, 2012, 06:56 PM   #75
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Quote:
Whoa...you may have permanently weakened your rifle's chamber.
Quote:
As long as he let it air-cool he should be okay.
Oh... I heated it until the finish was peeling and the color distorted then quick-cooled in a glass of ice cold coke.

Actually, it was only hot to the touch, IE I touched it and was fine. As the previous poster said, I've gotten it warmer with 2 mags spread out between 4 shooters and a duration of several minutes. I wasn't able to get the torch closer than about 1 1/2" from the chamber/ metal anyway. I let it air dry, took only a few minutes and it was cool to the touch. I'm not worried at all.
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