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|February 26, 2014, 01:02 AM||#1|
Join Date: December 18, 2007
Location: Eastern Oregon
Ruger MKIII & Burris Fastfire III
I've had my MKIII competition target AKA slab side for some time. I played with an eotech on it a couple 3 times. The eotech was just way to big of my liking for a pistol. So comes the Burris Fastfire III.
I just received the FFIII today it was mounted before the instructions came out. I ordered the FFIII with the picatinny mount and ordered the separate burris ruger mount.
The ruger mount
I didn't read much into it before purchase. Just looking I thought it replaced the scope rail and would set the site low enough for co-witness. This is not the case. It actually replaces the rest site. Now this is a good thing and bad. The good the FFIII has a white line in the center that acts as a site like. On the slab side barrel the front blade is pretty tall. You can see the top of the blade over the site. The white line was almost lined up perfect. Almost as in I could have pulled the front blade found a little of the edge and it would have been perfect. So in a way it has its own site to co-witness.
I repackaged the ruger mount and am sending it back. I just don't think it is worth $40+ more.
The picatinny mount
well it's just that it mounted right up to the scope rail that came with my MKIII. In the directions or states to put slight forward pressure on the FFIII when tightening. I found that if I put any more pressure than the weight of the FFIII holding the muzzle down. That I couldn't get the FFIII to tighten down. It always came loose. Just point the muzzle down and tighten it. I was able to tighten it finger tight and shot around 150 rds and it stayed out.
At first it looks really small. Just holding it up I was able to see the red dot but it was harder to see than the eotech. The optics is small. I got the 3MOA. The dot isn't as sharp as the eotech, but still looked good. I tried all settings (auto, high, medium, low) auto works fairly well. It has its faults if you are aiming into a darker area and close to a window or in a doorway with bright light. It goes to full brightness washing out your target.and the same if your in a dark room and shooting a target outside in bright light it goes to medium or dim. Now for most I was out in the open shooting the metal call them jumping jax targets. Guess I should say it took me 10-15rds of a bag to site it in. It wasn't that bad to site in I just wasn't doing my part.when we started it was daylight the auto setting was working good in the open with the jumping jax. As it got darker I want really thinking about it but it got to a point that all the stickers were about gone and the targets started getting hard to see. I was still able to see them thru the FFIII just like I could like I was looking at them. The site didn't deteriorate in the low light. Then I realized that the site had auto dimmed and was at its lowest setting. The auto had worked as it should, and will probably be my setting of choice.
It comes with a hood. It's not the same as the FFII. This hood can stay on while you shoot. I think it would be good for shooting in the rain, and as a sun shade. I pulled out off while I was shooting, but I did find that while it was on it keep a couple fingers from getting to the lens.
No real co-witness. I like the battery being on top. It's light weight almost toy like, but feels very well constructed. I like the eotech but it has its place, and for me is not on top of a pistol. My thoughts (not worth much) but the picatinny mount is the best of both. If the site fails a couple turns and the sites off, and I'm back to open sites. I went back and forth between this site and a vortex razor. I had seen the FFIII, but hasn't laid eyes on the vortex. Lifetime or not sight unseen I wasn't going to pay out that much. The vortex razor on top of a M&P CORE is next one I find a razor to see hands on.
If you have any questions about the FFIII I'll try answering them.
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