Can a rusted/pitted gun ever look good again? Re-Blueing?

Orion8472 · March 15, 2013, 04:22 PM

Can a rifle/gun that has surface rust and some pitting ever look good again, if refinished and re-blued? Is it a labor intensive thing to accomplish?

CoRoMo · March 15, 2013, 04:24 PM

Absolutely they can look good again.

But that is in the eye of the beholder and I would not necessarily recommend rebluing in many cases.

Probably my favorite thread of 2012 was this one: http://www.thehighroad.org/showthrea...ight=dug+relic

Before...

And after...

DeepSouth · March 15, 2013, 04:43 PM

Wow!!! That's real 1911. Not a 1911 A1, so it was what pre 1918?

Anyway on topic. I had good friend one that had a badly pitted rifle, mainly on the barrel. He filled the pitting with JB weld sanded it all down and rebuled and while I would not say it looked like new, I will say it dang good.

brickeyee · March 15, 2013, 04:52 PM

Only if there is enough metal to polish out the pits.

jamesbeat · March 15, 2013, 04:52 PM

Parkerizing can also help to disguse pitting to an extent.
It doesn't fill the pits, but makes them a bit less visually obvious.

There are methods to actually fill pitting involving copper plating too, I believe.

Deus Machina · March 15, 2013, 06:02 PM

'Good' or 'like new'?
It will never look like new again, without spending as much on it as a new gun is worth.
But good? I like rust and tarnish, to an extent. It's the sign of a workhorse.

Neo-Luddite · March 15, 2013, 06:10 PM

More and more I am personally inclined to leave things alone ~ but it's really an eye of the beholder thing. Metal lost is metal lost; I don't know that there is a gun product akin to Bondo,

JTHunter · March 15, 2013, 06:20 PM

Neo - as Deep South mentioned, there is JB Weld, a steel-filled epoxy that can be troweled like Bondo and, once fully cured, drilled, sanded, etc., just like a piece of steel.

Many years ago, I used it to patch a 6-7" crack in the lower block of a Toyota 4WD p/u. The crack was from the bottom of the block going up and curving to the back. It went too high and too far back for me to be able to fill the entire length. As a result, the block re-cracked due to excessive movement/vibration. It did cause the oil loss to slow to 1 quart in 500 miles instead of 1 in 100.

jamesbeat · March 15, 2013, 07:18 PM

CoRoMo, thanks for that link, I had missed that thread the first time around, and it's one of the best I've ever read!

Newcatwalt · March 15, 2013, 11:03 PM

Thanks for the thread. This is first I heard of it and couldn't help watching the whole process. Amazing stuff....

akv3g4n · March 15, 2013, 11:54 PM

Depending on the extent of the pitting, you may be able to bead blast it and refinish it with DuraCoat or AlumaHydeII. I've had pretty decent luck with AlumaHydeII out of an inexpensive Harbor Freight paint sprayer. It's a little thicker and can fill in some minor voids in the metal.

Never used DuraCoat.

Orion8472 · March 16, 2013, 09:38 AM

Here's the story. I took a chance on the word of a person on gunbroker [selling a 1957 Marlin 39a]. Pics weren't very good, but it didn't show the real truth about it. The guy claimed it was good, but there is rust [surface] on the barrel and receiver. The lever is the worst, but is one of those replaceable items, I'm sure. If it can be cleaned up, it will be decent. Wood is a good color and fairly sound. It is partly my fault for not asking some questions before bidding, . . . but for me, it is a common curtesy, and maybe even ethical, for a seller to divulge all information.

It was gunbroker, so what I got is what I got. Lesson learned.

Anyway, as per the OP, . . . most of it is surface rust that may be able to be removed. What IS the best way? Some oil and a brillo pad? What's the best method?

shep854 · March 16, 2013, 09:52 AM

As CoRoMo, illustrated, stippling or engraving can be your friend, if the people involved are good. Can modern finishes actually cover signs of filling and sanding? ETA: glancing over the thread again, I see the question was answered

All that said, normal wear and use are signs of character in a gun; just be sure the corrosion has been stopped. My S&W 49 has some pitting, but to me, that's sign that it has been put to good use! Also, I'm not as concerned about hard use, if necessary (like that first ding in a new car). Care should not be compromised, though.

Neo-Luddite · March 16, 2013, 10:25 AM

JT Hunter : I hadn't thought about JB Weld for cosmetics- yeh, sure, I bet that would work on more than just car radiators~neat idea.

Orion8472: for rust, use lots of oil and 0000 steel wool. If you go harsher, you'll be going too fast and risking marring any remaining blue. Resist the urge to use chemicals that desolve rust as they'll eat blue up too ~ as rust and blue are born of simliar chemical reactions.

Orion8472 · March 16, 2013, 10:25 AM

I wouldn't be too concerned if I had given about $200 less than I had [about what it would be worth], . . . but I have taken off the handguard and the major pitting seems to be just on the lever. The rust on the barrel appears mostly surface. The insides have a bit of rust coloring in there, so I'll have to see about that, too. Appears sound, though. Just need to find the best way to remove rust, prevent it from spreading, . . . and may see what my local gunsmith can do about re-blueing.

Neo, thanks for the suggestion. I will give that a try. :-)

rcmodel · March 16, 2013, 10:39 AM

See this:

http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost....70&postcount=1

rc

shep854 · March 16, 2013, 11:04 AM

Neo-Luddite: Wouldn't brass wool be better? Or are you suggesting steel wool since the finish is not an apparent consideration?

rcmodel · March 16, 2013, 11:36 AM

0000 Extra Fine steel wool & oil.
I will not harm any remaining bluing.
It is used by firearms refinishers to card hot salts bluing residue off a new finish.

Brass wool doesn't work nearly as well.
Plus, after you get part of the rust off with it, then you have to use copper solvent to get the brass off.

See the link in post #16 for steel wool & oil results.

rc

Orion8472 · March 16, 2013, 12:34 PM

Thanks for moving this thread. I should have put it here to begin with!

I did some 0000 steel wool and oil. I got most of the surface rust off, but a lot of the blueing is actually just gone on the top of the barrel around the rear site to just after the handguard. There is a bit of pitting on the left side of the receiver. The lever looks like something was gnawing on it.

At this point, I am thinking that I may just put it back up on gunbroker and eat the loss. . . .being honest about it [as the original seller should have been]. Functionally, it is good and the bore [after cleaning] looks to be pretty shiney.

shep854 · March 16, 2013, 01:37 PM

Thanks, RCModel--I'm happy to learn!

Coltdriver · March 16, 2013, 01:46 PM

Go take a look at the examples at http://www.shootiniron.com/

Mac does a great job and can bring good looks and utility back to a pitted weapon.

I had him refinish an AK that had been exposed to melted desiccant which ate the finish off and rusted the heck out of it. It looks better than new and has held up for over 10 years now.

Liberty1776 · March 16, 2013, 03:05 PM

I've resurrected three pistols that were rusty, pitted, etc... did one bead blast with a satin eggshell blue and did the other two - one with dura coat and one with gun kote. They all turned out nice; and still usefull...

BBBBill · March 16, 2013, 03:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Orion8472

Can a rifle/gun that has surface rust and some pitting ever look good again....

Sure. Just depends on how much money you are willing to spend. Check out the photo galleries here - http://www.gunsmithingonly.com/

rcmodel · March 16, 2013, 04:00 PM

Quote:

Functionally, it is good and the bore [after cleaning] looks to be pretty shiney

Then you would probably be money ahead to have it professionally re-blued rather then eat the loss by selling it on Gunbroker again.

Actually a rusty 1957 39A that shoots & works right is a much better gun then a new one that looks nice.

rc

Orion8472 · March 17, 2013, 11:18 AM

Thanks, rc. That was the plan [to get an older one in good shape]. Just isn't this one, . . . unless I take it to a professional. Which is what I plan on doing tomorrow to see what it will run me to have it smoothed out and re-blued. If it doesn't cost too much, I'll have him do it, then enjoy it.

Where can I get a different lever? Are there any slightly larger loop levers out there for it? Grizzly Customs has an awesome looking rifle with a larger loop.

March 15, 2013, 04:24 PM	#2
CoRoMo Member Join Date: September 21, 2007 Location: Colorafornia Posts: 8,477	Absolutely they can look good again. But that is in the eye of the beholder and I would not necessarily recommend rebluing in many cases. Probably my favorite thread of 2012 was this one: http://www.thehighroad.org/showthrea...ight=dug+relic Before... And after... __________________ The Second Amendment of our Bill of Rights is my concealed weapons permit, period! Ted Nugent

March 15, 2013, 04:43 PM	#3
DeepSouth Member Join Date: January 14, 2009 Location: Heart of Dixie Posts: 1,772	Wow!!! That's real 1911. Not a 1911 A1, so it was what pre 1918? Anyway on topic. I had good friend one that had a badly pitted rifle, mainly on the barrel. He filled the pitting with JB weld sanded it all down and rebuled and while I would not say it looked like new, I will say it dang good. __________________ Don't be afraid of the enemy! Remember the Lord, who is great and glorious, and fight for your friends, your families, and your homes! Nehemiah 4:14 The trouble with our liberal friends is not that they are ignorant, it is that they know so much that isn't so Last edited by DeepSouth; March 15, 2013 at 04:56 PM. Reason: Left out a word lol

March 15, 2013, 06:02 PM	#6
Deus Machina Member Join Date: May 24, 2007 Location: Brandon, Florida Posts: 1,784	'Good' or 'like new'? It will never look like new again, without spending as much on it as a new gun is worth. But good? I like rust and tarnish, to an extent. It's the sign of a workhorse. __________________ When you get angry enough, grab your rifle and run outside. If you're the only one there, it's not time yet.

March 15, 2013, 06:10 PM	#7
Neo-Luddite Member Join Date: September 13, 2006 Location: Northwest IL--the other 'Downstate' Posts: 2,564	More and more I am personally inclined to leave things alone ~ but it's really an eye of the beholder thing. Metal lost is metal lost; I don't know that there is a gun product akin to Bondo, __________________ Jack was on his feet. "We'll have rules!" he cried excitedly. "Lots of rules! Then when anyone breaks 'em--"

March 15, 2013, 06:20 PM	#8
JTHunter Member Join Date: July 25, 2010 Location: Southwestern Illinois Posts: 609	Neo - as Deep South mentioned, there is JB Weld, a steel-filled epoxy that can be troweled like Bondo and, once fully cured, drilled, sanded, etc., just like a piece of steel. Many years ago, I used it to patch a 6-7" crack in the lower block of a Toyota 4WD p/u. The crack was from the bottom of the block going up and curving to the back. It went too high and too far back for me to be able to fill the entire length. As a result, the block re-cracked due to excessive movement/vibration. It did cause the oil loss to slow to 1 quart in 500 miles instead of 1 in 100. __________________ “Crime is to be expected since humans are never perfect. But the failure of Justice may be more damaging to Society than the crime itself.” - - Clarence Darrow

March 15, 2013, 04:22 PM	#1
Orion8472 Member Join Date: May 8, 2008 Posts: 1,527	Can a rusted/pitted gun ever look good again? Re-Blueing? Can a rifle/gun that has surface rust and some pitting ever look good again, if refinished and re-blued? Is it a labor intensive thing to accomplish?

March 15, 2013, 04:52 PM	#4
brickeyee Member Join Date: February 25, 2005 Posts: 2,817	Only if there is enough metal to polish out the pits.

March 15, 2013, 04:52 PM	#5
jamesbeat Member Join Date: February 25, 2009 Posts: 599	Parkerizing can also help to disguse pitting to an extent. It doesn't fill the pits, but makes them a bit less visually obvious. There are methods to actually fill pitting involving copper plating too, I believe.

March 15, 2013, 07:18 PM	#9
jamesbeat Member Join Date: February 25, 2009 Posts: 599	CoRoMo, thanks for that link, I had missed that thread the first time around, and it's one of the best I've ever read!

March 15, 2013, 11:03 PM	#10
Newcatwalt Member Join Date: December 9, 2008 Location: Las Vegas, NV Posts: 80	Thanks for the thread. This is first I heard of it and couldn't help watching the whole process. Amazing stuff.... __________________ The journey is the destination.

March 15, 2013, 11:54 PM	#11
akv3g4n Member Join Date: January 8, 2013 Location: Hiram, OH Posts: 204	Depending on the extent of the pitting, you may be able to bead blast it and refinish it with DuraCoat or AlumaHydeII. I've had pretty decent luck with AlumaHydeII out of an inexpensive Harbor Freight paint sprayer. It's a little thicker and can fill in some minor voids in the metal. Never used DuraCoat.

March 16, 2013, 09:38 AM	#12
Orion8472 Member Join Date: May 8, 2008 Posts: 1,527	Here's the story. I took a chance on the word of a person on gunbroker [selling a 1957 Marlin 39a]. Pics weren't very good, but it didn't show the real truth about it. The guy claimed it was good, but there is rust [surface] on the barrel and receiver. The lever is the worst, but is one of those replaceable items, I'm sure. If it can be cleaned up, it will be decent. Wood is a good color and fairly sound. It is partly my fault for not asking some questions before bidding, . . . but for me, it is a common curtesy, and maybe even ethical, for a seller to divulge all information. It was gunbroker, so what I got is what I got. Lesson learned. Anyway, as per the OP, . . . most of it is surface rust that may be able to be removed. What IS the best way? Some oil and a brillo pad? What's the best method?

March 16, 2013, 09:52 AM	#13
shep854 Member Join Date: April 29, 2004 Location: Birmingham AL Posts: 895	As CoRoMo, illustrated, stippling or engraving can be your friend, if the people involved are good. Can modern finishes actually cover signs of filling and sanding? ETA: glancing over the thread again, I see the question was answered All that said, normal wear and use are signs of character in a gun; just be sure the corrosion has been stopped. My S&W 49 has some pitting, but to me, that's sign that it has been put to good use! Also, I'm not as concerned about hard use, if necessary (like that first ding in a new car). Care should not be compromised, though. __________________ Powder smoke- The smell of FREEDOM! Registration? NEVER!

March 16, 2013, 10:25 AM	#14
Neo-Luddite Member Join Date: September 13, 2006 Location: Northwest IL--the other 'Downstate' Posts: 2,564	JT Hunter : I hadn't thought about JB Weld for cosmetics- yeh, sure, I bet that would work on more than just car radiators~neat idea. Orion8472: for rust, use lots of oil and 0000 steel wool. If you go harsher, you'll be going too fast and risking marring any remaining blue. Resist the urge to use chemicals that desolve rust as they'll eat blue up too ~ as rust and blue are born of simliar chemical reactions. __________________ Jack was on his feet. "We'll have rules!" he cried excitedly. "Lots of rules! Then when anyone breaks 'em--"

March 16, 2013, 10:39 AM	#16
rcmodel Member Join Date: September 17, 2007 Location: Eastern KS Posts: 41,251	See this: http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost....70&postcount=1 rc __________________ Don't put all your eggs in one basket. Or all your primers in a glass jar!

March 16, 2013, 11:04 AM	#17
shep854 Member Join Date: April 29, 2004 Location: Birmingham AL Posts: 895	Neo-Luddite: Wouldn't brass wool be better? Or are you suggesting steel wool since the finish is not an apparent consideration? __________________ Powder smoke- The smell of FREEDOM! Registration? NEVER!

March 16, 2013, 11:36 AM	#18
rcmodel Member Join Date: September 17, 2007 Location: Eastern KS Posts: 41,251	0000 Extra Fine steel wool & oil. I will not harm any remaining bluing. It is used by firearms refinishers to card hot salts bluing residue off a new finish. Brass wool doesn't work nearly as well. Plus, after you get part of the rust off with it, then you have to use copper solvent to get the brass off. See the link in post #16 for steel wool & oil results. rc __________________ Don't put all your eggs in one basket. Or all your primers in a glass jar!

March 16, 2013, 12:34 PM	#19
Orion8472 Member Join Date: May 8, 2008 Posts: 1,527	Thanks for moving this thread. I should have put it here to begin with! I did some 0000 steel wool and oil. I got most of the surface rust off, but a lot of the blueing is actually just gone on the top of the barrel around the rear site to just after the handguard. There is a bit of pitting on the left side of the receiver. The lever looks like something was gnawing on it. At this point, I am thinking that I may just put it back up on gunbroker and eat the loss. . . .being honest about it [as the original seller should have been]. Functionally, it is good and the bore [after cleaning] looks to be pretty shiney.

March 16, 2013, 01:37 PM	#20
shep854 Member Join Date: April 29, 2004 Location: Birmingham AL Posts: 895	Thanks, RCModel--I'm happy to learn! __________________ Powder smoke- The smell of FREEDOM! Registration? NEVER!

March 16, 2013, 01:46 PM	#21
Coltdriver Member Join Date: December 26, 2002 Location: Colorado Posts: 1,887	Go take a look at the examples at http://www.shootiniron.com/ Mac does a great job and can bring good looks and utility back to a pitted weapon. I had him refinish an AK that had been exposed to melted desiccant which ate the finish off and rusted the heck out of it. It looks better than new and has held up for over 10 years now.

March 16, 2013, 03:05 PM	#22
Liberty1776 Member Join Date: December 28, 2006 Location: Minnesota Posts: 849	I've resurrected three pistols that were rusty, pitted, etc... did one bead blast with a satin eggshell blue and did the other two - one with dura coat and one with gun kote. They all turned out nice; and still usefull...

March 17, 2013, 11:18 AM	#25
Orion8472 Member Join Date: May 8, 2008 Posts: 1,527	Thanks, rc. That was the plan [to get an older one in good shape]. Just isn't this one, . . . unless I take it to a professional. Which is what I plan on doing tomorrow to see what it will run me to have it smoothed out and re-blued. If it doesn't cost too much, I'll have him do it, then enjoy it. Where can I get a different lever? Are there any slightly larger loop levers out there for it? Grizzly Customs has an awesome looking rifle with a larger loop. Last edited by Orion8472; March 17, 2013 at 11:24 AM.