Pin that will not budge... - THR

Go Back   THR > Ammunition, Gear, and Firearm Help > Gunsmithing and Repairs

Welcome to THR
You are currently viewing our site as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions, articles and access our other FREE features. By joining our free community you will have, access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please visit the help section.

Thread Tools
Old August 15, 2014, 10:29 AM   #1
Join Date: July 16, 2013
Posts: 9
Pin that will not budge...

Because quality gunsmiths are becoming more and more scarce, I (and suppose many, many others) have become my own "personal gunsmith," familiarizing myself with all the firearms I own (mostly wartime German/Euro 7.65mm pistols).

My routine is to completely disassemble new acquisitions down to the last pin/spring, etc., and thoroughly clean them before putting them into service. I've yet however, to come across a pin that absolutely will not budge when trying to drift it out.

I have just obtained a functional Sauer M1913 pistol (for a very good price) which is the filthiest pistol I've ever come across. While attempting to completely disassemble the gun for a thorough cleaning, I could not budge one of the two pins that hold the mechanism housing in place. I'm guessing it's possible it is rusted in, as there was some rust present in the gun. I tried drizzling some Kroil on it and waiting a spell, but it still wouldn't budge when trying to drive it out.

From this point on, what is the suggestion to remove a "frozen in" pin, apart from drilling it out?

Soaking overnight, followed by some heating of the pin area, hitting it with a torch until warm?

Thanks in advance.
AoxoMoxoA is offline  
Old August 15, 2014, 12:05 PM   #2
Contributing Member
Join Date: September 17, 2007
Location: Eastern KS
Posts: 49,408
Couple of things that have always worked for me.

1. The frame 'Must' be supported on a heavy steel surface to absolutely prevent any movement or give when you hit the pin.
I use a small 10# anvil I keep on the bence with holes drilled in it for pin clearence.

2. You Must use a short, very stiff 'starter punch' to break them loose.
Typical long slim pin punches flex to much or bend too easily to break a tight pin loose.

I use a couple of different size tapered, cup point nail-set punches for 'starter' punches.
The tips are small enough to enter the hole, but the taper prevents them being used to drive to pin very far through the hole.
But they are very stiff, and won't flex or bend either.

3. Use enough hammer.
I use a medium size ball-peen hammer for really tight pins.
Again once it moves, I go back to my small gunsmith hammer to finish with the more fragile long pin punches.

Once you move a tight pin, even a little, the long pin punch & smaller hammer can take over to finish the job.

Don't put all your eggs in one basket.
Or all your primers in a glass jar!

Last edited by rcmodel; August 15, 2014 at 12:12 PM.
rcmodel is offline  
Old August 15, 2014, 12:46 PM   #3
Join Date: February 1, 2014
Posts: 1,535
If it's a pin from one side to the other I flip over and try the other side. Burrs and bent pins sometimes make pins refuse to go one way but come out the other way easily.
"There is nothing wrong with America that faith, love of freedom, intelligence, and energy of her citizens cannot cure" -Dwight D. Eisenhower
WestKentucky is offline  
Old August 15, 2014, 03:52 PM   #4
Join Date: March 7, 2005
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,366
Unless it's a taper pin...
BBBBill is offline  
Old August 15, 2014, 04:39 PM   #5
Join Date: July 12, 2012
Location: West Texas
Posts: 618
Time is your friend. Let the Kroil soak in for several days, reapplying periodically. Then try RC's nail set starter punch.
Kp321 is offline  
Old August 15, 2014, 10:09 PM   #6
Jim K
Join Date: December 31, 2002
Posts: 15,258
I would buy or make a cup tip punch for that upper pin; else you risk ruining it with a regular flat tip, as well as having the punch slip and mar the frame.

Jim K is offline  
Old August 15, 2014, 10:26 PM   #7
4v50 Gary
Join Date: December 19, 2002
Posts: 16,473
Agree with the soak in Kroil.

Sometimes even heat afterward. I've had some tough screws to remove before.
TFL Aluminium. Molon Labe!
4v50 Gary is online now  
Old August 15, 2014, 10:37 PM   #8
Join Date: December 23, 2002
Location: Chihuahuan desert
Posts: 440
I posted this a little while ago but it was deleted for some reason. Soak the gun in ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) for three or four days. Cheaper than Kroil.
Join the NRA and TSRA
burrhead is offline  
Old August 16, 2014, 10:39 AM   #9
Join Date: January 17, 2008
Posts: 3,589
I agree with using ATF. But the most important part is to use a starter punch to break the pin loose and a heavy enough hammer - and having the gun on a solid surface so it cannot move when you strike the pin. I have a vise on my bench that weighs so much I can barely lift it and it's bolted to a very heavy bench. Nothing can move but that pin. You also need to hold your mouth just right and maybe stick out your tongue a little.
Drail is offline  
Old August 16, 2014, 12:52 PM   #10
Join Date: February 27, 2011
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,155
Might be a taper pin or a pin that is itself pinned in place. Designers have all sorts of quirks. My motto is not to disassemble unless necessary, and then only when I have a schematic or know what I'm doing.
AlexanderA is offline  
Old August 16, 2014, 01:05 PM   #11
Join Date: January 17, 2008
Posts: 3,589
Yup, a man's got to know his limitations. Most especially with destructive devices.
Drail is offline  
Old August 16, 2014, 05:28 PM   #12
Join Date: February 25, 2005
Posts: 3,052
Adding a taper to a pin used to be very common.
There are MANY gun parts that have just enough taper to make them lock.
brickeyee is offline  
Old August 16, 2014, 05:52 PM   #13
Join Date: March 7, 2005
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,366
It's still common. The front sight base pins on AR-15s are tapered.
BBBBill is offline  
Old August 20, 2014, 10:55 AM   #14
loose noose
Join Date: February 22, 2012
Location: Southern Nevada
Posts: 1,811
Most pins go from left to right to come out and just the opposite to go back in. I know this is very basic but I thought I might add my $.02 worth.
loose noose is offline  
Old August 20, 2014, 04:52 PM   #15
Join Date: January 23, 2011
Location: Tn.
Posts: 812
Agree with a starter punch and a rock solid support, I've used marvil mystery oil and soak for a couple of days. Find a sunny spot and let the firearm catch some sun for a couple of hours after the soak. When it gets hot to touch, try a couple of wacks.
Skyshot is offline  

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:36 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
vBulletin Optimisation by vB Optimise.
This site, its contents, Shooting Reviews, and its contents are Copyright (c) 2010-2013 Firearms Forum, Inc.
Although The High Road has attempted to provide accurate information on the forum, The High Road assumes no responsibility for the accuracy of the information. All information is provided "as is" with all faults without warranty of any kind, either express or implied. Neither The High Road nor any of its directors, members, managers, employees, agents, vendors, or suppliers will be liable for any direct, indirect, general, bodily injury, compensatory, special, punitive, consequential, or incidental damages including, without limitation, lost profits or revenues, costs of replacement goods, loss or damage to data arising out of the use or inability to use this forum or any services associated with this forum, or damages from the use of or reliance on the information present on this forum, even if you have been advised of the possibility of such damages.