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Old June 10, 2004, 03:39 PM   #1
P95Carry
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Marlin 60 takedown.

Plinkerton's thread asking about taking down his Marlin 60, prompted me to take a few pics as I got mine ready for an overdue clean ... I could not easily give a round count thru it since last strip - many 100's!!

Hopefully it'll help him out but also be a usefull reference for anyone else not quite sure. It is pretty straightforward but marginally fiddly, that's all.

Dang it - forgot about pic limit ... OK - have to split this .......

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Part I

Pics are very reduced and compressed, to keep download time short .... .as a result, some ''jagging'' of pixels shows in some - hopefully tho they will serve to illustrate what is needed.

To start (of course - check for clear - which includes removing tube mag rod too)-- just undo two screws ..... the trigger guard rear and the larger one on the forend 2" ahead of trigger guard. Don't bother with trigger guard front screw at all. Remove woodwork from rifle. Make sure action is cocked and hammer back.


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


First .... having removed woodwork, here is the action .. with slide still locked back halfways. The trigger itself stays in the trigger guard.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


Now - same thing but viewed from below. Look carefully and you should see a white arrow top left ... this points to the plastic split pin that retains trigger group. Push this pin out, noting that just as it comes free, the trigger group will drop down a bit. Notice general crud - this one does need cleaned.!
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


Pin has now been removed and rear of trigger group drops down .. control this to avoid it coming too far too soon.
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


Once pin is out and rear dropped as in previous pic' .. the front of trigger group can be pulled rearward slightly ... to disengage its location. Note two small arrows ...... the right hand one points to engagement cross pin .. the left points to step at front of trigger group which goes over this pin.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


Now for the bolt. Move it slightly downward as shown ..... which gives some free space above the cocking handle. Move the handle up into that space and it should withdraw by pulling towards you.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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Old June 10, 2004, 03:41 PM   #2
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Part II




This shows handle removed .... and you'll notice how it is a sort of ''U'' shape, which fits over the bolt. It is normally retained of course when bolt is fully up in normal operating position.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


Just a further view to again show the bolt handle profile side-on.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


Now we can remove the bolt complete with recoil spring. In this pic it is almost out but still pressing against end of mag feed block. Try and keep spring and its guide reasonably straight to avoid spring buckling excessively in its middle.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


With care, continue to pull bolt free and allow spring to expand under control while keeping straight Then remove the assembly.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


From this point you can get down to cleaning. I don't suggest you strip any further. Using carb cleaner etc and compressed air . get all the crud out of the trigger group and the internal surfaces that bear on the bolt. The bolt itself will need some good cleaning also.

Mustn't either - forget breach face ... rake out crud from extractor recess and whole area.

After crud is dealt with, relube sparingly (Militech or similar).... concentrating on slide contact areas. Too much lube is nothing more than a magnet for .22 powder granules!! Reassembly is essentially just a reverse process but again ... try not to buckle the recoil spring as you refit the bolt.


Hope this helps.
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Last edited by P95Carry; August 12, 2005 at 04:58 PM. Reason: Link update to maintain image display
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Old June 10, 2004, 04:02 PM   #3
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Quote:
Hope this helps
Sure does help me. Thanks for the post!
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Old June 10, 2004, 06:32 PM   #4
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Thumbs up Great post

I've bought, cleaned and given away dozens of these rifles, but never had the guts to try and strip one completely down. I've got one in the closet now that hasn't found a home, looks like I have a project.
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Old June 10, 2004, 08:09 PM   #5
Dave R
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Posts like this are why I love THR.

I can tell my Model 60 is old. My "trigger group pins" are screws!
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Old June 12, 2004, 02:15 AM   #6
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P95Carry, I've got a Model 60 that I picked up a while back, and it's real accurate, but I've got a problem with it failing to eject. It will only fire 4 or 5 rounds, and then every round after that FTE. Have you seen this before? Can the bolt be taken down to allow for more thorough cleaning/adjustment of the extractor/ejector?

Just thought I'd ask, as you're the first Model 60 expert I've run across (pretty good photographer of the process, too!). TIA!
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Old June 12, 2004, 07:51 AM   #7
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Good post, P95Carry. I'm sure this thread will be linked to many a time from now on.
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Old June 12, 2004, 08:38 AM   #8
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Farnham ... ''expert'' .... not really!! But flattery will get you everywhere!!

Let me ask first . how much or little have you cleaned the action yourself? Any idea how much wear shows on the bolt? Is the recess on breach face for extractor claw clear of crud?

The system is more or less foolproof, up to a point but ... without taking mine down again tho I am not sure exactly whjat other options you have. The extractor is pinned and so in theory could be reoved ... maybe it needs ''sharpened a tad'' Not however done this to mine.

Let me know your answers and I'll check it out ... plus, someone else might even have a suggestion here too.
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Old June 12, 2004, 10:58 AM   #9
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Cool Lube job

Read that this works good to keep Model 60's jam free:

Clean and remove ALL traces of oil, lube, Hoppe's 9, etc. Lubricate contact areas with graphite using a wooden pencil. Reassemble and shoot.

This will supposedly help any FTE/ jamming problems.

I have not tried this, but I know these rifles work better clean and dry, so it might be a good thing.

I love .22's, and am looking at an old Glenfield model 60 as a present to myself.

Mark
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Old June 12, 2004, 12:08 PM   #10
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If only you could post something about swapping the old ejection system for the new lifter spring system, I would be elated.

I took the entire action apart (that's a nasty job, don't do it if you don't have to) to put the new ejector system in, and guess what? It doesn't fit. The lifter spring is hooked at one end, and the hook was about 3mm too short to reach the hole it needed to go in. Naturally I tried to bend it to make it fit and it broke So now a $5 part is keeping me from enjoying my mod 60.

I didn't really have a point, just wanted to complain.
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Old June 12, 2004, 01:00 PM   #11
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LT .. I know squat about this ''lifter spring'' deal ... new to me!

Dogngun .. indeed, graphite is a good dry lubricant .. but not sure quite how long its effect can be reckoned to last. Not tried it in the Marlin.
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Old June 12, 2004, 01:30 PM   #12
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P95Carry, I've cleaned it a LOT, trying to remedy this FTE thing, and the bolt is clean. I've got it taken down in front of me right now, and when I move the extractor (left hand side of bolt) it moves smoothly. It shows quite a bit of wear on the tip of the claw, though. Never noticed that before, it helps to know what to look for. Is it possible to replace an extractor? Ever hear of it needing to be done?

Also, I'm a fan of CLP, it keeps my Mini-14 and my 10/22 happy, so I imagine there's too much of it in there, now that Dogngun mentioned how Model 60's work better dry, I'll have to swab all that out and try the graphite thing.

Thanks for your help, guys, it's appreciated!
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Old June 12, 2004, 02:08 PM   #13
P95Carry
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Quote:
Is it possible to replace an extractor? Ever hear of it needing to be done?
Farnham .... nope haven't come across one needed done - yet! The pivot point this is about where handle goes over bolt .. so (without removing to eyeball)........ I reckon the pin is there .. look at yours and hopefully you'll see it.

Whether you can dress your extractor carefully to sharpen the claw just a tad .. not sure. OTOH perhaps - just order up a new one .. can't cost too much. The pin will be small .... so you 'll need the exact size punch to drift it out. Worth a try I think.
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Old June 12, 2004, 02:20 PM   #14
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Found the pin, and yep, it is SMALL! Definitely need smaller punches than I've got around here. I'm thinking if I try to sharpen the extractor claw, I'll probably just remove enough material to make it completely useless, as there's not much there to begin with.

Guess it's off to Midway, Marlin, and/or Brownells to see what an extractor costs...I've got to quit reading this board, I find something on here everyday that reminds me I need to buy SOMETHING for one or another of my rifles!

Thanks again!

Edited to add: Found the left and right side extractors, and springs, for $8.16 at Brownells, I can just rebuild the whole bolt!
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Old June 12, 2004, 03:02 PM   #15
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Sounds reasonable ... probably way to go .. both sides and be done with it!

Let us know if this provides your needed fix?!
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Old June 28, 2004, 08:23 PM   #16
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Hey P95Carry, just wanted to thank you again for posting this. It's been a GREAT help to me, and my never-before-cleaning 60.

I thank you, and my Marlin thanks you!
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Old June 28, 2004, 08:28 PM   #17
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Plink ..... thx for the feedback .... you are most welcome. It is this that makes our shooting community so vital and fascinating. The exchange of even the simplest info and almost for sure, someone else can benefit.

In the end .... ''what goes around - comes around'' .. we all can be enriched I think. It's what in part makes it all worthwhile.

Good shooting (plinking!! )
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Old July 7, 2004, 07:48 PM   #18
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Well. I finally got around to tearing down my Marlin 60, and it was SO much easier than I thought. I used Gun Scrubber, and am EXTREMELY impressed with how well it works. It even evaporates quickly so you don't have to clean it out.

Anyways, thanks again. My 60 hasn't been this clean since I bought it.
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Old July 7, 2004, 08:27 PM   #19
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Good news Plink .... just make sure you do have a minimal amount of lube for slide etc ...... just a smidgeon of graphite or mearest trace of oil - rather than absolutely dry.

Good shooting (plinking!! )
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Old July 7, 2004, 08:35 PM   #20
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I put a TINY bit of M7Pro (whatever it's called) oil in it. It is MUCH smoother now. Doesn't have that sandy feeling anymore.

Oh, one thing I never noticed before, is that this thing appears to have 2 extractors. I didn't know they did that...
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Old April 1, 2005, 07:14 PM   #21
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P95Carry,

Most excellent post and pictures.

I had heard how hard it was to field strip a Marlin 60 was so I never tore into mine. Well today after finding this post I broke down both my old 60 and a 75 carbine I had picked up a while back. No problems getting them apart and back together.

The 75 is a little different though. The cross pins that hold the front of the trigger group are screws. And the pin in the rear is a bolt. Other then that it came apart and went back together just like the 60.

THANKS for the post and the pictures!!!
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Old April 1, 2005, 08:30 PM   #22
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Roy - more than delighted that it has helped!!
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Old April 1, 2005, 11:06 PM   #23
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Whoa, wait a second... someone actually CLEANED a Marlin 60?

What's next? A Nylon 66?
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Old April 1, 2005, 11:16 PM   #24
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Bad Chris! You made my nightmares come back from when I tore apart my Camp 45 to take out the mag safety. The two appear rather similar in some aspects.
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Old April 1, 2005, 11:31 PM   #25
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Chris,
Great post and pics! Thanks!

I'm like George Hill though...
Quote:
Whoa, wait a second... someone actually CLEANED a Marlin 60?
What's next? A Nylon 66?
DO NOT take apart a Nylon 66.

M-a-y-b-e shoot some CRC Brakleen in it ...even that is not needed. Lube, "we don't need no stinkin' lube". Pipe clean the breechface, extractor and chamber. Plain , dry Pipe cleaner mind you. Just shoot the durn things is all I do with a Nylon 66.
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