38 in 357

You mean THIS ?
http://cowboygunparts.com/slix-scraper.html
Looks interesting, but at $25 plus S&H, I'm happy with a good ol' bronze brush.

Thanks for the link but I'm cheap. I carry an empty .357 Magnum cases which is chauffeured on the inside only. If I ever have a carbon build up tapping that case in the charge holes cleans them right out. I have not used it in a very long time since I clean my revolvers after each range trip and don't get a build up.

ArchAngelCD said:

..... I carry an empty .357 Magnum cases which is chauffeured on the inside only. If I ever have a carbon build up tapping that case in the charge holes cleans them right out.

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Interesting. Can you elaborate on this ? (I mean, i get the basic concept, but what do you mean by "chauffeured on the inside only"?) Thanks.....

If you chamfer it on the outside the case will just push inward on itself and jam and not scrape out the fouling in the chamber.

He's using it for a cutter to take the fouling the shorter case leaves out of the cylinder so when he puts full length .357s in that cylinder, they don't go in tight, or not at all.

I'm assuming so it's acting like a razor blade and scraping the carbon up, instead of just cramming it further down to the end of the chamber.

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Damn autocorrect. Chauffeur = chamfer. lawlz.

Great idea using the .357 brass "driven" only on it's i.d.

MIL-DOT said:

Interesting. Can you elaborate on this ? (I mean, i get the basic concept, but what do you mean by "chauffeured on the inside only"?) Thanks.....

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Think of a sharp wood chisel, flat on one side and sharpened on the other. You place the flat against the work surface and when you slide the tool across a work piece it cuts anything that is high or sticking up. The empty .357 Magnum case is acting like a chisel only round and the same size as the charge holds. When sharpened and tapped into the charge holes it will remove and carbon buildup that might be raised above the sides of the charge hole, clean and easy. (and cost free just like like it lol)

I hope I described it well.

Nice ideas for removing the carbon ring. The chisel idea is innovative.

I avoid the issue by loading light loads in 357 Magnum cases to shoot in 357 Magnum chambers.

This allows me to save the 38 Special cases for my 38 Special revolvers.

I suppose there could be some shooting games that you'd have to shoot 38 Special cases regardless of the chamber so you'd have no choice but to clean the carbon build up.

I pretty much clean the guns after each time I shoot....though it may be a while before I get to it.

Give it a little bell if needed to fit the chambers well.

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That's what I do. S slight bell flare on the reloading press.

If you don't reload any larger size round or conical object can be pushed or lightly tapped into the mouth to produce a nice flare. And a chamfer on the inside with no chamfer on the outside creates a nice sharp edge to cut the carbon away.

Yeah, the brass needs to be re-sharpened more often. But I've got lots of it here for free versus buying a special tool. Sharpen, push home, push back out if needed with a cleaning rod. Repeat 5 more times and done.

I found that the sharpening lasted for two cleanings. I've since turned to using a .40caliber brass brush and a short extension in a hand drill used with some cleaning solvent. Fast and easy and the brush lasts for a good dozen cleanings.

Originally posted by MIL-DOT:

Looks interesting, but at $25 plus S&H, I'm happy with a good ol' bronze brush.

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Same here -- a bronze brush and a little solvent cures the problem nicely.