Best 7-08 Rifle?

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I've decided that 7-08 would be the best cartridge to hunt with me personally, because I just flinch too much with anything too much bigger. I have no basis with rifles chambered in 7-08, I don't know what all actions you can buy with them in, but I need bolt. Which 7-08 that you have experience with is your favorite and why? Thanks

ETA: Not going to go over $500
 
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I lean hard on crf, but that's due to personal preference and a couple failures with push feeds that happen rarely, but still just often enough to make it worth the extra money.I think it would be more helpful if you had some parameters in mind? Price range? Type? Do you shoot rapid fire situations or one shot per minute? Tikka is near the top imo for push feed but weatherby and savage earned their reputation too, huge fan of Winchester m70 and ruger 77 too, Kimber is good but I don't worry about the weight difference for the time being. Every one will have their own "best" but best for what you use/like is the bigger issue. Heck, if it's wide open, get a blaser and enjoy. ;)
ETA welcome to thr!
 
Budget? You can spend $300 on an acceptable rifle, or $3000. When you say best, do you truly mean best with no price limit, or the best rifle under $1,000, under $700 etc.

That said there is no "BEST". There are lots of good rifles and it depends on your criteria. Are you only interested in best performance, or are aesthetics important.

Now we CAN discuss favorites. There are some decent budget guns that will shoot very well priced at around $400. But for my money one of the Winchester 70's priced from $800-$1100ish is the best compromise between performance and decent aesthetics. Kimber is in the discussion as well, but Kimbers are not my 1st choice for an all around rifle. The are well made but their niche is building a rifle 1-2 lbs lighter than the competition. If you need a 5 lb rifle they are a bargain. But most people shoot a 7 lb rifle more accurately. I own Winchesters and a Kimber. Like them all, but the Kimber is reserved for those times when the terrain is rugged and steep.
 
I lean hard on crf, but that's due to personal preference and a couple failures with push feeds that happen rarely, but still just often enough to make it worth the extra money.I think it would be more helpful if you had some parameters in mind? Price range? Type? Do you shoot rapid fire situations or one shot per minute? Tikka is near the top imo for push feed but weatherby and savage earned their reputation too, huge fan of Winchester m70 and ruger 77 too, Kimber is good but I don't worry about the weight difference for the time being. Every one will have their own "best" but best for what you use/like is the bigger issue. Heck, if it's wide open, get a blaser and enjoy. ;)
ETA welcome to thr!
I really don't have many parameters, I usually shoot 100-200 yds and I don't have too many price parameters, I guess anything $0-$350 loosely. And if we're being honest, who doesn't want to look like a bada-- in their hunting picture, so I mean the tactical look would be pretty cool, but definitely not a need. And I've never had difficulties with pushfeed, so that doesn't really matter. Thanks!
 
Budget? You can spend $300 on an acceptable rifle, or $3000. When you say best, do you truly mean best with no price limit, or the best rifle under $1,000, under $700 etc.

That said there is no "BEST". There are lots of good rifles and it depends on your criteria. Are you only interested in best performance, or are aesthetics important.

Now we CAN discuss favorites. There are some decent budget guns that will shoot very well priced at around $400. But for my money one of the Winchester 70's priced from $800-$1100ish is the best compromise between performance and decent aesthetics. Kimber is in the discussion as well, but Kimbers are not my 1st choice for an all around rifle. The are well made but their niche is building a rifle 1-2 lbs lighter than the competition. If you need a 5 lb rifle they are a bargain. But most people shoot a 7 lb rifle more accurately. I own Winchesters and a Kimber. Like them all, but the Kimber is reserved for those times when the terrain is rugged and steep.
You are right, I don't want to spend more than $500. Aesthetics would be cool, but nothing trumps performance for me. Thanks!
 
depends on how much money you want to spend. I got a cheapo Stevens 200 (since discontinued by Savage) it shoots dime groups at 100 yards, changed out ugly stock with a Boyds walnut stock...I got some really nice rifles in my safe, but my cheapo Savage is one of my favorites.
 
I really don't have many parameters, I usually shoot 100-200 yds and I don't have too many price parameters, I guess anything $0-$350 loosely. And if we're being honest, who doesn't want to look like a bada-- in their hunting picture, so I mean the tactical look would be pretty cool, but definitely not a need. And I've never had difficulties with pushfeed, so that doesn't really matter. Thanks!
Weatherby vanguard/s2 savage axis 2, howa, ruger American, mossberg patriot, browning ab3, there's a few to get you started, I make sure there's an adjustable trigger. Savage is towards the top thanks to aftermarket serviceability, howa and weatherby for the trigger being user friendly, and I have the weatherby vanguard. For the ranges you're talking, in a 7-08, if you're concerned about recoil, you might consider an adjustable stock to make the fit better for YOU, I know little girls that can launch a .30-06 accurately with proper lop, (weatherby again here) and the extra weight won't matter much.
 
Weatherby vanguard/s2 savage axis 2, howa, ruger American, mossberg patriot, browning ab3, there's a few to get you started, I make sure there's an adjustable trigger. Savage is towards the top thanks to aftermarket serviceability, howa and weatherby for the trigger being user friendly, and I have the weatherby vanguard. For the ranges you're talking, in a 7-08, if you're concerned about recoil, you might consider an adjustable stock to make the fit better for YOU, I know little girls that can launch a .30-06 accurately with proper lop, (weatherby again here) and the extra weight won't matter much.
I know, I know, I just flinch too much. Thanks for the suggestions
 
I know, I know, I just flinch too much. Thanks for the suggestions
Well if the flinch is that big of an issue, is there a reason you like the 7-08 so much? There are viable deer (and larger) cartridges that will recoil even less. (I don't flinch at the .300 wm but I have NO shame in killing everything I aim at with .243, and the .260 is soon to be acquired as well, I like comfortably running more than 30 rds downrange without WANTING to call it a day) if you don't NEED that 7mm diameter, you can still be quite lethal with much more comfort.
ETA I wasn't knocking you in any way about the -06 just wanted to demonstrate the importance of proper FIT.
 
I would look at ruger american rifles, and howa makes a great one too for a low price, but don't overlook Savage. I had one in 7mm-08 and it was a tack driver, and almost no recoil cause it fit me so well. Stock fit is so much more important than a lot of people realize when it comes to handling recoil.
 
I would look at ruger american rifles, and howa makes a great one too for a low price, but don't overlook Savage. I had one in 7mm-08 and it was a tack driver, and almost no recoil cause it fit me so well. Stock fit is so much more important than a lot of people realize when it comes to handling recoil.
Thanks!
 
No problem. I saw in your other thread that the 30-06 is giving you a flinch, what make and model is it? A better recoil pad and reduced recoil ammo may solve it for ya. I love the 30-06, but from a sub 7lb rifle it isn't as much fun as from a 9lb milsurp rifle.
 
No problem. I saw in your other thread that the 30-06 is giving you a flinch, what make and model is it? A better recoil pad and reduced recoil ammo may solve it for ya. I love the 30-06, but from a sub 7lb rifle it isn't as much fun as from a 9lb milsurp rifle.
I have actually heard about buying a new stock for the 7-08, I may just do that! Thanks for the heads up
 
No problem. I saw in your other thread that the 30-06 is giving you a flinch, what make and model is it? A better recoil pad and reduced recoil ammo may solve it for ya. I love the 30-06, but from a sub 7lb rifle it isn't as much fun as from a 9lb milsurp rifle.

Sorry to keep asking things, but would you have any idea of where to find a recoil reducing stock for a savage 30-06? Can't find one for the life of me
 
What cartridges? I am totally basing the 7-08 off of my uncle (retired navy) who said it would be the best all around for getting the job done and not recoiling too much. Keep in mind we get some big f-in' deer up here!
Up where? Idaho doesn't limit center fires so I'll leave that one alone for the time being. In Wyoming it's generally a min of .25" in Nebraska we allow 22s with at least 900 ft-lbs of energy but .25 for elk, south Dakota allows .243 for elk. Lots of people are gonna scream about .243 for elk, but my family has done it handily for quite awhile. Bullet construction makes a HUGE difference. For your purposes, let's start with the .243 with a Remington, ruger, or savage barrel so that you can use the 100 gr gameking just cuz you can. Then there's a whole SLEW of decent .25s but the most prominent are the .257 Roberts (EXPENSIVE) and .25-06. Basically the 06 adds just a LITTLE weight and velocity to the .243 capabilities. Then we jump to the b e a utiful 6.5s that can take game of all sizes on this continent with proper bullet placement and selection. The 6.5 creedmoor, 6.5x55Swede (which is kinda of crippled by factory loads) and .260 rem. (6.5 Grendel is viable at your ranges, but not ideal for knockdown shock and awe). The .243, .260, and 7-08 are all spawned from the .308 case and thus all recoil will be directly relevant to bullet weight. A .243 with 100 gr bullets will kick similarly to the .260 with 100 gr bullets. The .243 can be loaded with 85-87 gr bullets for deer for minimal recoil. The .260 really cranks the 120-140s out there beautifully and they give you better ballistic coefficient and Sectional Density (wind drift resistance/better trajectory, and better penetration) than the 7-08 will in the same loading. For ANY deer, a 100 gr nosler partition, or 120-130 just about anything (except maybe the sst at close range) will work just fine. Elk ? 140 still gets the job done. Our deer get big enough to be drug out by a horse but they aren't so tough yet that a .243 won't knock em flat from 50-400 yds. The .25-06 is just fine too, but it's right between the .243&.260 and I can't justify the extra powder that has to be burned to make it work.
ETA I love the 7-08 and have nothing against it whatsoever, if you think that's your best choice, that's your call and you'll be fine, but you DO have options.
 
Sorry to keep asking things, but would you have any idea of where to find a recoil reducing stock for a savage 30-06? Can't find one for the life of me
Add mercury weights to a wood stock, then top it off with a good recoil pad, if it's still too much, add a flash hider to the barrel.
 
Up where? Idaho doesn't limit center fires so I'll leave that one alone for the time being. In Wyoming it's generally a min of .25" in Nebraska we allow 22s with at least 900 ft-lbs of energy but .25 for elk, south Dakota allows .243 for elk. Lots of people are gonna scream about .243 for elk, but my family has done it handily for quite awhile. Bullet construction makes a HUGE difference. For your purposes, let's start with the .243 with a Remington, ruger, or savage barrel so that you can use the 100 gr gameking just cuz you can. Then there's a whole SLEW of decent .25s but the most prominent are the .257 Roberts (EXPENSIVE) and .25-06. Basically the 06 adds just a LITTLE weight and velocity to the .243 capabilities. Then we jump to the b e a utiful 6.5s that can take game of all sizes on this continent with proper bullet placement and selection. The 6.5 creedmoor, 6.5x55Swede (which is kinda of crippled by factory loads) and .260 rem. (6.5 Grendel is viable at your ranges, but not ideal for knockdown shock and awe). The .243, .260, and 7-08 are all spawned from the .308 case and thus all recoil will be directly relevant to bullet weight. A .243 with 100 gr bullets will kick similarly to the .260 with 100 gr bullets. The .243 can be loaded with 85-87 gr bullets for deer for minimal recoil. The .260 really cranks the 120-140s out there beautifully and they give you better ballistic coefficient and Sectional Density (wind drift resistance/better trajectory, and better penetration) than the 7-08 will in the same loading. For ANY deer, a 100 gr nosler partition, or 120-130 just about anything (except maybe the sst at close range) will work just fine. Elk ? 140 still gets the job done. Our deer get big enough to be drug out by a horse but they aren't so tough yet that a .243 won't knock em flat from 50-400 yds. The .25-06 is just fine too, but it's right between the .243&.260 and I can't justify the extra powder that has to be burned to make it work.
ETA I love the 7-08 and have nothing against it whatsoever, if you think that's your best choice, that's your call and you'll be fine, but you DO have options.
Montana, we allow pretty much anything here. If it goes bang, come to Montana for no wardens or cops. And .243 is off of the table for me because of the fact the hole closes after entry. Will look into some of those other rounds
 
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