New Reloader: Share your wisdom please

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Zaydok Allen

Zaydok Allen

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Hey all,

Last year I started a thread basically meant to contain my new reloader questions. The THR format upgrade left that thread locked. No problem. In case anyone wants to read it or the folks I was discussing things with want a refresher, here's the thread.

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...ere-ill-be-asking-my-stupid-questions.797441/

Unexpected international travel and some unforeseen expenses forced me to put aside my quest to begin reloading. And strangely enough, additional unexpected international travel this year is leaving my wallet feeling rather lite. However I realized I'm only a few hundred dollars away from getting started on the press.

I have a Dillon 550B reloader
45 acp carbide dies, and the needed shell plate
A bullet puller for all my screw ups
a deburring tool
Primer flip tray
Calipers
reloading manuals

I've decided I'm going to go with a Thumler's Model B rotary tumbler to clean brass. I just need to save a few dollars to buy it. I'm very actively saving for my retirement, and just saving in general because I feel it's important, so scraping a few hundred extra bucks is harder for me than I care to admit. (No new guns this year. :thumbdown:) Travel is expensive too. I'll likely pick up a second drum for tumbling rocks at some point, and that's part of why I settled on this model.

Now I need a scale. I haven't decided on an electronic scale yet. I was set on the Gem Pro 250, but I keep reading bad reviews. However, I know I want a beam scale to verify things, and since I'm just looking to load practice ammo, and not precision rifle loads, I think a beam scale is a good starting point.

So I've looked at a lot of designs and I keep coming back to the RCBS M1000. I like the setup and it get's decent reviews. Any input on this or info on the M1000 scale?
 
Hmm. Well just reading your post makes me feel poor so I can't give much insight there. However I would like to give this, a second scale can't verify another without a standard. You'll also likely be using a tape measure to verify a caliper. Beam scales aren't in the same league as a digital. However ether can be quite usable. Just my two cents.
 
I have the Hornaday GS-1500 scale
It wasn't too expensive and got good reviews
Like all digital scales a clean table, steady temp and no fluorescent lights nearby and it does its job.

Let's at it, it looks like typical Chinese reloading equipment in that other brands seem to have this with their label on it. Knowing this now I'd probably have found the same scale cheaper shopping sround
 
Share my wisdom, huh? That's a short conversation ;) In my life it's save for retirement or travel. I gots no passport. Maybe I'll travel later.

For .45 acp you generally don't need a deburring tool because it's not necessary to trim pistol brass. You'll rely on flaring the case mouth to insert the bullet. But never fear, that tool will come in handy when you move on to rifle loading.

I bought a Thumlers model B from an estate sale, cheap. They're easy to find used, and if parts are needed, those are easily found as well. Buy a used one and put that extra cash aside for a rifle. :D
 
460 Shooter wrote:
...leaving my wallet feeling rather lite.
...
I have a Dillon 550B reloader
45 acp carbide dies, and the needed shell plate
...
I've decided I'm going to go with a Thumler's Model B rotary tumbler... I'll likely pick up a second drum for tumbling rocks at some point,

Now I need a scale. I haven't decided on an electronic scale yet.
...
I want a beam scale to verify things, and since I'm just looking to load practice ammo, and not precision rifle loads, I think a beam scale is a good starting point.
Click to expand...

Welcome and I hope you find reloading as fascinating and satisfying as I have.

That said, as I read your post the cliche "First World Problems" came to mind. I still use a 1979 vintage RCBS Reloader Special single stage press with a case tumbler built from parts salvaged from a Texas Instruments printer using Folgers Coffee cans as the drum. With a Dillon press and a Tumbler's tumbler, you may find your pleas of poverty don't garner much sympathy.

As someone new to reloading, I would strongly suggest the following:
  • Purchase more than one reloading manual. Read each one thoroughly. Then, read them again. You can be hazarding your LIFE with this hobby, so take the time to learn how to do it safely from the people who literally "wrote the book".
  • Based on what you read, create a set of written reloading procedures. I suggest making this into the form of a checklist that you print out and follow each time you reload; checking off each step as you do it.
  • Create a reloading form that contains the caliber, date, quantity, bullet, powder, etc. and record this for each batch of catridges you reload. Put this form in a binder where you can get to it later or stick it in the box with the reloaded cartridges.
I'll leave it to others who are more experienced with progressive presses to chime in about ensuring the accuracy of powder charges, but you should not rely solely on a digital scale as they can move out of calibration.
 
ArchAngelCD said:
I also have a Hornady GS1500 digital scale and it works well for me. I do verify the scale with my RCBS 505 scale just to be sure.
Click to expand...
As others have said, you can't check one scale with another. You check it with a known standard.

The GS1500 comes with one. You should use that and run a calibration check every so often.

IMHO the standard that comes with it is ok to get you close enough. If you're insanely OCD you can get a set that has different known weights to make sure the scale is also accurate at those weights and by extension in the range you're testing.

Personally I'm not going to worry if a scale is off .1 grain or so, as long as it's very close what's more important is that it's consistent. An inconsistent scale is annoying and dangerous for reloading. One a tiny bit off but highly consistent in the other hand compensates for the error if you likewise are consistent in your practices. In other words I don't care if a load is 5.0 grains or 4.9 or 5.1. If I'm shooting for accuracy that close I just make sure my scale reads what my notes state and I'm good. If I were to switch scales then I'd work the load up again.
 
460Shooter said:
I have a Dillon 550B reloader
45 acp carbide dies, and the needed shell plate
A bullet puller for all my screw ups - Get the RCBS kinetic hammer
a deburring tool - Absolutely not needed with pistol reloading
Primer flip tray - Get the RCBS because it accepts even the biggest primer boxes
Calipers - Harbor Freight 6"
reloading manuals - Lyman #49 on sale, since #50 is now released
Click to expand...

• Comments above in blue

• Scale - Check prices on RCBS 505 or Dillon Eliminator (nearly identical scales). Some one had the 505 on Amazon for $49 not long ago.

• Tumblers are absolutely not required to reload.
 
I've been using the GemPro 250 for some time now. My original one did developed a drift problem after 5-6 yrs. I sent it in and they replaced the unit free of charge. I leave mine on 24/7 so it's ready to use any time. The new one as been very solid, no drift. It does not self zero like some of the scales do if near Zero. I put a 0.2 gr weight on the scale an it was still reading 0.2gr 24hrs later. The slow response in trickling can be annoying. You learn to just lift up on the pan and it updates. With most extruded you learn how many curnells it takes to make 1 grain. With Varget it's 4-5. I normally don't trickle with mine for I have the RCBS CM1500. I do use the GP to check the CM. The CM has a tendency to drift zero and requires you to re-tare to get it dispensing on the nose again.
 
hdwhit said:
Welcome and I hope you find reloading as fascinating and satisfying as I have.

That said, as I read your post the cliche "First World Problems" came to mind. I still use a 1979 vintage RCBS Reloader Special single stage press with a case tumbler built from parts salvaged from a Texas Instruments printer using Folgers Coffee cans as the drum. With a Dillon press and a Tumbler's tumbler, you may find your pleas of poverty don't garner much sympathy.

As someone new to reloading, I would strongly suggest the following:
  • Purchase more than one reloading manual. Read each one thoroughly. Then, read them again. You can be hazarding your LIFE with this hobby, so take the time to learn how to do it safely from the people who literally "wrote the book".
  • Based on what you read, create a set of written reloading procedures. I suggest making this into the form of a checklist that you print out and follow each time you reload; checking off each step as you do it.
  • Create a reloading form that contains the caliber, date, quantity, bullet, powder, etc. and record this for each batch of catridges you reload. Put this form in a binder where you can get to it later or stick it in the box with the reloaded cartridges.
I'll leave it to others who are more experienced with progressive presses to chime in about ensuring the accuracy of powder charges, but you should not rely solely on a digital scale as they can move out of calibration.
Click to expand...
Hmmmm. Well I certainly wasn't looking for sympathy or pleading poverty. I have a good job, especially given my field and my age. I was just stating the reason I've had to put things off. Saving for retirement is vital for my particular retirement system.

Anyway, in response to the manuals mentioned, I have the Hornady 9th edition and Lyman 49th. I have read through them both and found the Lyman most helpful.

I have a dedicated notebook for checking off reloading steps and developing loads for my guns.

Thanks for the insight.
 
rfwobbly said:
• Comments above in blue

• Scale - Check prices on RCBS 505 or Dillon Eliminator (nearly identical scales). Some one had the 505 on Amazon for $49 not long ago.

• Tumblers are absolutely not required to reload.
Click to expand...
I have the RCBS kinetic hammer.
I know a deburing tool isn't needed for pistol brass, but I may get into rifle cartridges at some point. I have a Dillon flip tray already and the Lyman 49th.

I am patrolling Amazon for deals.
 
460Shooter said:
Now I need a scale. I haven't decided on an electronic scale yet. I was set on the Gem Pro 250, but I keep reading bad reviews. However, I know I want a beam scale to verify things, and since I'm just looking to load practice ammo, and not precision rifle loads, I think a beam scale is a good starting point.

So I've looked at a lot of designs and I keep coming back to the RCBS M1000. I like the setup and it get's decent reviews. Any input on this or info on the M1000 scale?
Click to expand...

I doubt if one would be at all disappointed with the RCBS M1000. Most reloading folks won't ever need that much capacity and would be just as happy with a M500 for a lot less monies. Both have the same 0.1 grain of accuracy. I use my old 505 for my primary scale and a digital to verify.
 
Blue68f100 said:
I've been using the GemPro 250 for some time now. My original one did developed a drift problem after 5-6 yrs. I sent it in and they replaced the unit free of charge. I leave mine on 24/7 so it's ready to use any time. The new one as been very solid, no drift. It does not self zero like some of the scales do if near Zero. I put a 0.2 gr weight on the scale an it was still reading 0.2gr 24hrs later. The slow response in trickling can be annoying. You learn to just lift up on the pan and it updates. With most extruded you learn how many curnells it takes to make 1 grain. With Varget it's 4-5. I normally don't trickle with mine for I have the RCBS CM1500. I do use the GP to check the CM. The CM has a tendency to drift zero and requires you to re-tare to get it dispensing on the nose again.
Click to expand...
Interesting. I may take the leap on the gem pro. I've just seen such mixed reviews I've been hesitant.
 
Hokie_PhD said:
As others have said, you can't check one scale with another. You check it with a known standard.

The GS1500 comes with one. You should use that and run a calibration check every so often.

IMHO the standard that comes with it is ok to get you close enough. If you're insanely OCD you can get a set that has different known weights to make sure the scale is also accurate at those weights and by extension in the range you're testing.

Personally I'm not going to worry if a scale is off .1 grain or so, as long as it's very close what's more important is that it's consistent. An inconsistent scale is annoying and dangerous for reloading. One a tiny bit off but highly consistent in the other hand compensates for the error if you likewise are consistent in your practices. In other words I don't care if a load is 5.0 grains or 4.9 or 5.1. If I'm shooting for accuracy that close I just make sure my scale reads what my notes state and I'm good. If I were to switch scales then I'd work the load up again.
Click to expand...
Point taken and I believe the M1000 comes with a test weight. If not I will pick a set up.

I realized 0.1 grain accuracy is plent for my needs. I want practice ammo not long range precision ammo.

That being said, I still want to create some accurate loads.
 
Hokie_PhD said:
As others have said, you can't check one scale with another. You check it with a known standard.
Click to expand...
I don't check the accuracy of one scale against the other, I use the digital to verify my setting on the beam. For the most part, I've found beams to last longer, be more accurate, faster and less finicky to the ambient surroundings than those digital scales affordable to most of us. While I do check individual scales with test weights, I've yet over the 20 years I've reloaded, to have a beam go outta whack. I cannot say that for digital. When I verify my loads, I am making sure I have set the sliders on the beam correctly, have it leveled correctly and something else hasn't happened(pan hanging crooked, etc) to make the setting incorrect. I used to always get a throw weight to measure correctly and then re-level and reset my beam and then throw another charge and weigh it to make sure my first setting was right. Now after I get the charge thrown to the beams weight, I turn on the digital and make sure the charge is right. Having two different types of scales tells me I have done it all correctly. While I do have a good set of test weights, many times I'll just use a new dime(they weigh35gr) to check the accuracy of either. BTW....my latest digital(a jewelers scale) and my 505 are different by .01gr. But both are very consistent....and that's what's important. One of the reasons we start low and work up is that slight difference between scales. If one does that, your scale can be off by half a grain and still be safe as long as it weighs consistently and you use your load work up notes.
 
So I realize some scales offer greater than 1/10 grain accuracy, but assuming you don't really need greater accuracy than that, will electronic scales offer me anything besides speed over a beam scale?
 
Something I haven't seen mentioned is that some electronic scales don't work for trickling powder. They won't detect the changes until you've added several tenths.
If you're going to trickle, make sure your scale will support it.
 
I was going to buy a trickler but I should be able to hold off.

I want to buy a Ruger Presision Rifle or equivalent rifle in the future. I'll trickle then.
 
Last edited:
Get yourself a reasonably good scale, be it a balance beam or digital and a reasonably good powder throw and that is about all you need. A scale accurate to +/- 0,1 grain having the same resolution is fine and a powder throw or powder measure that offers up good repeatability over a wide range of powders (stick or ball). That is really all you need for starters. I happen to like RCBS stuff but any decent scale and powder measure is all you need. Unless you plan to weigh each charge from the start a trickler can come later or you can fabricate your own.

Ron
 
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