700$$ Fusil? What is the catch here?

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Dog Soldier said:
That is a Fusee De Chase/ Cow's Foot shortened for horse back after 1820. Great story great choice in Rock Guns. Thx for your post.
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My smoothbore is a Wilson's Trade gun replica that was made up by Caywood. I shot it for years in the original configuration and on a whim decided to shorten the barrel and add a rear sight. A friend that is a great black powder gun builder made up the rear sight for me and soldered it on. It is a lightweight fun little muzzleloader that will stay with me for the rest of my days now.
 
The British were competing with the French for the fur trade. French guns were seen as better than the English straight wrist single stripe butt plates etc. Wilson designed a "Chief's" gun around 1721-1751.
The British used their French copies the Wilson's "Chief's" gun to win favor among the tribes. These varied in smooth bore size from 28 Gauge to 16 Gauge. The most popular was the .58 Caliber smooth bores. The Brass Serpent side plates were removed by the Indians as it was a bad omen.
 
perldog007 said:
I'm starting to form the opinion that some of these imports are only good for re-enactors and casual use. I did know a man that had a CVA flintlock he hunted squirrel with, But he didn't use it that often. I do really want a smooth bore though..
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If you're talking about the Indian made pot metal gun you have your eye on, that would be a correct assessment.
 
Cooldill said:
If you're talking about the Indian made pot metal gun you have your eye on, that would be a correct assessment.
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If I was in that neck of the woods I'm sure I could find one that would do just fine. But if you're getting handmade it just makes more sense to me to get it local. TOWs' kit is good start probably. One Indian shop posted a test of their lock. It was okay but in that price range I'll take a CVA whatever and start learning with that. Heck even a plastic stocked one. As long as we can take it down and clean it.
 
perldog007 said:
I really wouldn't mind having a gun made in India with a return policy, which they do have. But I'd rather pay a premium for a nice repro from Uncle Dave that somebody can put hands on and deliver to me in days, not months.
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Then contact Loyalist Arms & Repairs at: http://www.loyalistarms.freeservers.com/tradeguns.html. I currently own 4 of their smoothbore guns, and they all functions and shoot well.

LD
 
I have decided to start with a Pedersoli Kit, a .45 pistol for a plinker/starter. The lock is a gamble, but can be replaced if need be, the Price is right, it's basically an 'in the white' build. For the money involved we have decided to do some learning then decide whether or not to get what we want built or do some of the work at home. It should be here any day now. Am also going to be testing my linseed oil and walnut idea on a bare wood self bow we've had for a couple of years.
 
Really enjoy working on stocks, not bad at shining metal. I like the custom guns, but at those prices won't have a cabinet full. Also thinking I might want to finish it myself. There's no discount money wise. most only charge another hundred or two for final wood and metal finishing. But nobody is going to do walnut stock the way I want it. A few are close.....
 
daboyleroy said:
Withdraw your ramrod and return it to the thimbles of your rifle. Now cradle the rifle in your left arm with your left hand gripping the wrist, thumb over the wrist, muzzle to the left and pointed in a safe direction, somewhat like Fig. C. This position presents the pan and frizzen area for your inspection and manipulation. (Note: if you are at a match, use a position that keeps that muzzle down range, or make sure you stand side ways.)

Now, set the cock at the first notch (half cock) and close the frizzen down over the feather, helping to hold it in the touch hole. Into the forest you go, looking warily for game or foe.

We should note here that spit patches were not used unless they were to be fired immediately, such as at a rifle match. A spit-patched ball will leave a rust ring in the bore if it remains in place a few hours.


Priming: So far, you are loaded but not primed. You spot your game or target. Gently push your frizzen forward and pull the feather out of the touch hole. This will clear the touch hole and may pull a few grains of powder into the pan. Prime your pan, close the frizzen, set the cock at full, aim, and fire.
From: http://www.muzzleblasts.com/archives/vol4no4/articles/mbo44-2.shtml
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IMO......it's ridiculous.....a Feather ...what if you jump game as I have many times in 25+ years....you know what you can do with that feather.....prime your pan and seal the seam with a small dab of bees wax to keep out moisture....then start huntin'.......and where's your frizzen guard anyway ?
Do you think your target / game is gonna stand there while you perform this crazy woods ritual with a feather, A ha....unbelievable.....another beginner obviously with not much actual hunting experience.....proof anyone can write an article or make a video.
 
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xXxplosive said:
Do you think your target / game is gonna stand there while you perform this crazy woods ritual with a feather, A ha....unbelievable.....another beginner obviously with not much actual hunting experience.....proof anyone can write an article or make a video
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Really? Here's some actual hunting experience. Whilte it's uncommon, I totally agree, :thumbup: I heard a twig snap behind me just as I touched off my flinter at a doe, and then as I started my reloading procedure, I looked behind me and saw the buck that snapped the twig watching me reload from 10 yards away, and he even allowed me to turn completely around and start to level on him before he dashed away. I've taken a deer from a group on more than one occasion, with the group standing about 30 yards away, and both times all but one of the group darted away save for the deer I had shot and one more, and that straggler stood staring at me standing in plain view reloading my flintlock rifle, and again didn't leave until I brought the rifle muzzle toward the deer. I've seen deer very close to a hunter get startled by a flash-in-the-pan, and watched as the hunter, pricked his touch hole, reprimed and closed his frizzen, and then slowly drew a bead and dropped one of those gawking deer. I've also seen deer get shot at, missed, and stand their calmly watching the hunter reload the black powder rifle for the second shot that killed it.

Now I'm not saying one should count on the deer to stand their calmly as you take steps to slay them, but they don't automatically bolt off, either. ;) I think the closer the deer habitat is to human dwellings, say a state park with hunting allowed adjoining a suburban area where the deer often wander around eating shrubbery and encountering humans, you get a skewed behavior on the part of the deer.

LD
 
A ha, ha.........maybe tamed animals.....if this is what your betting on, by all means, carry on with the Feather ritual !!!!!
 
I've read many who 'bet' on the feather ritual. As you become more expert at stalking 'jumping' game becomes a less frequent occurrence.


Also, I've seen those 'tame' deer so far out in the woods you are walking towards town to hunt.
If we are really pressed for venison it would be taken with a mossy, 30/30 or in flat open country maybe a nice milsurp bolt action.

The last deer I checked was taken with a Sabot from the Mossy, close range. My freezer was needy at the time, left my bent stick at home. Weapon was in 'carry mode' open slide and empty when we spotted the game.
Did a tactical load whilst eating some small sassafras leaves off a sapling. They didn't run until we dropped the vic. They froze and alerted at the slide rack / safety click but they watched me eat leaves until I was ready to bring the weapon up from low ready on the small deer I selected.


With white tail deer, my experience has been consistent. They alert then they scoot. So you get two moves. if you 'jump' a white tail it's because you're not paying attention. We all do it but it ain't no way to hunt. The idea is to have the animal in your sights before it starts to run. That way we don't shoot up something in the back ground. Hunter Safety course day one stuff.

Squirrel, turkey, fox, rabbits, raccoon, grouse, bobcat, coyotes, and mountain lions are, my opinion only, MUCH more difficult to hit after they've been 'jumped'. We endeavor mightily not to jump boar or bear. Those are important critters to avoid jumping in my estimation.

For some of us safety is more important than getting a shot off after we spook game because we don't know how to stalk. I rarely walk with an arrow knocked either but have put one or two into the odd deer since getting my first Shakespeare recurve in 1974.

Wasting ammo and shooting the neighbors shack or the landed gentry's stock are frowned upon where I come from. If you can master a flint lock to the point where you can drop a running deer after jumping it, you can learn to stalk.

When we are hunting humans we have to be ready to light up anything at any time. I don't do that anymore. If you do, please upgrade from your rock lock.

Good luck with your Johnny Recon approach, stay safe and during ML deer season, please stay on your side of the bridge.



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What are you talkin' about..."Two Moves," "Safety," "Shoot up something in the background".....wow "rock lock" , better stick to your Sabots......Geeezzzz.
 
I have purchased 9 weapons from MIDDLESEX, both pistols and muskets and trade guns, flint and percussion, two civil war muskets a SPRINGFIELD and an ENFIELD being the percussion.and only had one that the lock hung up on half cock, sent it back and it was fixed at no charge. I for one have great success with the company. also you can bring a gun to the shope and have it repaired and or brouse at what is for sale and handle it to make up your mind before you buy.if you live in a reasonable distance. just my 2cts. worth.
 
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