Working with bronze

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I looked over the site and couldn't find anything on whether the sword was made from a traditional Copper-Tin alloy or a modern Copper-Silicon or Copper-Silicon-Zinc alloy. And if it is a traditional Copper-Tin alloy, we also don't know from the site what the percentage of Tin and Phosphorus are. These factors control how hard the alloy is.

If the sword is just a blunt casting as it appears to be, I would think you would want to get an assortment of flat and half-round files with teeth running from rough to dead smooth so that you can work on the flat surfaces of the casting as well as sharpening the compound curves of the edges.

Hopefully someone who knows how to do the detail work and polishing will also chime in since my experience with bronze has been limited to some rough castings that didn't need to be polished with anything more delicate than a sand blaster.

The sword looks very elegant. Be patient and I'm sure you'll end up with something you can be proud to show your friends.
 
I emailed Dave at BronzeAge..

"Hi,
thanks for your order, I will be able to ship in the next couple of days. You will need 1st and 2nd cut engineer's files, and a range of abrasives from 40 grit down to around 2000, finishing with metal polish. The bronze is a 12.5% Sn mix which I make myself.

Regards, Dave.
 
Rec'd the other day... now just to find the time.
 

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Maybe Tinker will have some advice.....I've only made knives out of files.......well, yes, I did use files in the making......
 
Thus far, grinding away 15-20 minutes when ever i get a chance.
 

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Hasn't plugged any files at all; nor sandpaper... I have used soapstone preventatively but I don't think it's absolutely necessary.
I've got some more recent pics I'll put up later.
 
Slowly... burl blanks and copper rod arrived the other day...
when I'm almost done I'll "fire fit" wood to handle, then cut them to shape, pin them on, and start raspingg away...
 

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I've been watching this thread since it started.
At first it was interesting conversation, then it morphed into something very different.
Once you started posting pics, I was hooked.
I can't wait to see how it turns out.
It looks awesome.
I eagerly anticipate the next pics.
I don't want to sound at all skeptical, because your work so far has been outstanding.
My concern is about the burnt in handle.
I have no practical experience on the subject, other than some ham fisted attempts I've seen on those t.v. shows where it doesn't seem to go that well.
Is there a "right" way to burn on a handle?
Good luck with the rest.
Keep those pics rolling!
 
I've been watching this thread since it started.
At first it was interesting conversation, then it morphed into something very different.
Once you started posting pics, I was hooked.
I can't wait to see how it turns out.
It looks awesome.
I eagerly anticipate the next pics.
I don't want to sound at all skeptical, because your work so far has been outstanding.
My concern is about the burnt in handle.
I have no practical experience on the subject, other than some ham fisted attempts I've seen on those t.v. shows where it doesn't seem to go that well.
Is there a "right" way to burn on a handle?
Good luck with the rest.
Keep those pics rolling!
Honestly I'm not looking forward to that process either: I'm thinking of doing it gradually like doing a wood burning project... but I think I have a setup worked out, to be seen... worst case I get some more wood...

Pic... slow and steady about 20 minutes a day...

And a somewhat related article...

http://irisharchaeology.ie/2013/11/the-irish-rebel-and-the-ancient-sword/

And the next one will be...
http://bronzeagefoundry.com/shop/4571400608/dirk-blade/4251633
 

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What is the advantage of burning in the handles versus inletting them? It looks like it would be a simple shape to inlet
 
Pretty wood, but is is stabilized to avoid the shrink/expansion issue?

I'd inlet instead of burning as well since I'm assuming you're going to glue up. Burning was traditional, but it risks leaving voids and ash behind. OTOH, I have some very antique pieces that used hair wrapped around the tang to make up for any voids.
 
Pretty wood, but is is stabilized to avoid the shrink/expansion issue?

I'd inlet instead of burning as well since I'm assuming you're going to glue up. Burning was traditional, but it risks leaving voids and ash behind. OTOH, I have some very antique pieces that used hair wrapped around the tang to make up for any voids.
I'm trying to follow the instructions as closely as possible from the blade-caster... I've watch the video a few times and done some other research...

As an aside I've got Welsh and Irish ancestry on my paternal side (with a history of support of rebellion against the English) and I'm in the process of researching some ancestry stuff. I'm thinking of going over there at some point and doing one of the sword casting and finishing workshops just for fun...
 
I lived in Wales off on for 15 years. Beautiful place, many ancient things to see. Make the trip, you'll like it. :)
 
So the burn in of grips was a no-go... multiple factors, but I'm gonna just carve/inlet/etc on the next go...

Metal working is going fine tho'
 

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Probably gonna shelf this for the near future; I'm terrible with wood working so between two youngins and work I'm not wasting any more time right now...
 
Back after it... not coming along perfect but I'll be able to fight raccoons off the chicken coop in a pinch...

Handle is roughed out... pins of copper in, have some refining and sanding and finishing but not terrible for first effort...

No pics yet but I hand carved the handle for the dirk blade... pics when I remember... I used maple burl I think... hard as a rock.
 

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