EPIC glock Bulge with Doubletap 255 +p Glock 30

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I don't think DT issues warnings about shooting it specifically in Glocks...
They don't. In fact, they specifically say it's OK in Glocks. Glock, however, has a markedly different opinion on the topic.
 
Pretty sure my Glock's manual specifically said not to use this. It also mentioned cleaning the barrel every once in a while.

You can' run +++P++++ in a barrel clogged with lead. These are the results.
 
I would like to stop by and offer some of my thoughts on the subject:
Longer 9mm Luger case - 21mm instead of 19mm. Either that pistol was screwed up badly, or someone didn't measure the case correctly - there is simply no way to put a 21mm long case in a 9mm Luger chamber and close the slide on it. No way. Furthermore, right after ignition the case is pushed all the way back to the breechface and the barrel to the front, thus exposing all of the brass that can be exposed. It does not matter if the case is 21mm long, or 17mm long - in either way it will bulge exactly the same.

Early unlocking because of weak recoil spring. No way. The slide lock/unlock timing is not dependent on the recoil spring weight. At least, not in amount that is sufficient. When the bullet is still in the barrel and the chamber pressure is high, the barrel is locked solidly to the slide. Remember 1911Tuner's video about shooting his 1911 without a recoil spring at all? And if, only a hypothetical "if" the slide unlocks earlier than it should be, case bulge will be the slightest of your worries - ripped of extractors, funny looking "dished" case heads, rounded locking lugs, broken locking blocks... That sort of exiting things. Not to mention the occasional head separation on more powerful cartridges.

Firing out of battery - if that happened, which is highly unlikely there will be two things evident on the brass, which are not: off center firing pin indent and ringed case bulge - all around the base, not just on one spot. If the gun fired SLIGHTLY out of battery, when the barrel have not unlocked yet, then nothing bad will happen. If one starts to fear early unlocking due to out of battery firing, please refer to the second paragraph.
 
I had jacketed ammo that would bulge brass in standard Glock barrel, put in a Lone Wolf barrel and no bulge.
Shot the ammo in a Ruger CMD - no bulge.
As has been said, I would not shoot that lead ammo in stock Glock.
 
Pretty sure my Glock's manual specifically said not to use this. It also mentioned cleaning the barrel every once in a while.

You can' run +++P++++ in a barrel clogged with lead. These are the results.
Getting off topic here, as expected, but I just wanted to clarify: are you saying my barrel was clogged with lead before I shot these? Because it wasn't. It was clean. You can armchair quarterback all you want but the chamber and barrel were clean and have never had lead shot through them before.

I think this thread has run its course and mods you can close it if you want.
 
Doubletap reply FWIW


Thank you for reaching out. This email is in regards to the 45 ACP 255gr Hardcast Solid load you are shooting out of your Glock 30. This load is the only hardcast load that we offer for semi-auto pistols that does not have a copper gas check on the back of the bullet. A gas check prevents lead smear in the barrel as the powder burns. Factory Glock and HK firearms use polygonal rifling, and a lead bullet without a gas check will gum up the barrel and can create high pressures. This is what I believe to be going on with your gun.

If you would like to shoot this load out of your Glock, you will need to replace your barrel with an aftermarket barrel. We sell match grade Lone Wolf barrels for the Glock 30 for $115, that you can shoot this hardcast load out of. Your other option would be to switch to our 45 ACP 230gr FMJ-FP bullet, this load will perform perfectly out of your factory Glock, while still creating a large wound channel similar to the hardcast. If you would like to send the remaining hardcast you have back to us, I can send you out a fresh 50 round box of 45 ACP 230gr FMJ-FP for you to try. Let me know what you would like to do.

To reiterate, the hardcast load you are shooting would be fine out of any other gun, just not Glocks or HKs because the bullet is not gas checked.

Before you shoot any other ammo out of your gun, I would recommend deep cleaning your barrel with a good powder/carbon solvent to get the lead out of your barrel and bring pressures back to normal.

If you have any other questions, feel free to contact me anytime.

--
Thank You,
 
I did. It was a PITA too. No more lead in OEM glock barrels for me.
I don't know how you cleaned the barrel, but here's an easy way to get all the lead out:
Wrap a section of copper mesh (Chore Boy) around a bronze brush - enough so it is a very tight fit. Push it in & out of the barrel DRY...NO solvent. You won't believe how much lead slivers come out of that "clean" barrel. You can't damage the barrel that way; the copper is much softer than the barrel. Think about how much harder on the barrel firing the gun is. (I got that tip from a video by Bill Wilson - it came with my CQB).
 
I think the reply from DT was pretty reasonable, nice to see them get back to you.

I don't know how you cleaned the barrel, but here's an easy way to get all the lead out:
Wrap a section of copper mesh (Chore Boy) around a bronze brush - enough so it is a very tight fit. Push it in & out of the barrel DRY...NO solvent. You won't believe how much lead slivers come out of that "clean" barrel. You can't damage the barrel that way; the copper is much softer than the barrel. Think about how much harder on the barrel firing the gun is. (I got that tip from a video by Bill Wilson - it came with my CQB).
I used that method to clean my .458 barrel after shooting a bunch of poorly fitting bullets in it, works great!
 
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