Just ordered a 9mm Lee Pro 1000... what am I in for?

1KPerDay said:

How much is a lock and load cost after you add all of the stuff you're going to need to make it run?

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What stuff? Like dies?

Enjoy your Pro 1000. I’m sure it will be a great press for you.

Seems like I have seen this covered, perhaps in bds's forum thread on the Pro 1000, but: Am I correct in stating that this unit isnt made for rifle, but can be modified to do so?

If someone could elaboate on this it would be sweet.

As inexpensive as this unit is, I may get one to play along here!

Thanks,

Russellc

Seeing this is why I ask:

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/6...ad-master-progressive-press-case-feeder-rifle

Seems like .223 is doable, but what about other rounds, .308, 6.5 CM, 22 250, etc.

Russellc

RussellC said:

Am I correct in stating that this unit isn't made for rifle, but can be modified to do so?

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Pro 1000 is mainly for high volume pistol and short rifle cartridges like .223 - http://leeprecision.com/reloading-presses/progressive-presses/pro-1000/

But if cartridge will fit the available Pro 1000 shellplates, you have options.

#1 - 38 Spl., 357 Mag., etc.
#2 - 45 ACP, etc.
#2A - 45 Winchester Magnum
#4 - 222, 223, 300 BLK, 380 Auto, 32 S&W L., 32 H&R Mag.
#6 - 32/20, 25/20
#7A - 30 M1 Carbine
#7B - 32 Auto
#9 - 41 Magnum
#11 - 44 Special, 44 Magnum, 45 Colt
#12 - 7.62 x 39, PPC, 220 Russian
#13 - 45 Auto Rim
#14 - 38/40, 44/40, 45 Colt
#19 - 40S&W, 10mm Auto, 9mm Luger, 38 Super, 38 Auto, 41 AE

JLCook posted one option - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/lee-pro-1000-solutions-no-bashing.507454/#post-6333484

"Problem: I only have a pro 1000 and want to load for my rifle.

Solution: The 45 acp shell plate accommodates any case with the same head dimensions as the 308 win. (which is a good portion of common rifle calibers). Remove the spinner rod (hex action rod) from the center of the shell plate carrier and presto, now you have a turret press for loading rifle calibers. I am not sure if full length rounds (such as 30-06) will have enough clearance for bullet seating, but short action rounds will work fine. I am loading for my 7x57 with my pro 1000."

Another option for reloading .308 on Pro 1000 - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/reloading-308win-in-a-lee-pro-1000.524847/




I double stacked the adjustable charge bars by filing the slide tabs of one charge bar (see yellow arrows in the picture above) and use with 2 double-disk risers (AD2493) and 2 longer bolts (FD1471) - I would tape the sides to keep the charge bars together.

I metered up to around 47 grains of I4895/H4895/Varget and 48 grains of RL15 for .308 loads but I was not maxed out on adjustments and max adjustment should give 50+ grains.

Thanks, .223 and 300 BO is all I load for rifle wise right now.

Also stumbled on the Loadmaster as well, 5 stations but more expensive. 3 stations seems a little short...how do you all handle the FCD?

Russellc

I read one review which said, one hole for deprime/size, one for flare/powder charge, one for seat/crimp....different die that seats AND crimps? I like those to be separate stages...

Russellc

I seat and crimp in the same step.

As to FCD, I do not use them and they stay in the die boxes.

If you want to seat and crimp in separate steps, you can resize/deprime in separate step which allows you to inspect primer pockets and hand prime.

I used resized/primed brass for my match loads and using resized brass on Pro 1000 in progressive mode makes reloading silky smooth and results in less OAL variance.

That's what I figured would be best too. I didnt realize Lee made a seat/crimp combo die. I have slowly (so far just .45 and .223) obtained Redding Competition seating dies, and want to use them. Hopefully there is clearance for them, they are a little tall.

Russellc

bds said:

I seat and crimp in the same step.

As to FCD, I do not use them and they stay in the die boxes.

If you want to seat and crimp in separate steps, you can resize/deprime in separate step which allows you to inspect primer pockets and hand prime.

I used resized/primed brass for my match loads and using resized brass on Pro 1000 in progressive mode makes reloading silky smooth and results in less OAL variance.

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Also, since I already have both Lee as well as the aformentioned Redding seaters, once done I could run all the rounds through my single stage press fitted with FCD die..

I typically use it with a Universal decapping die to decap brass before cleaning.

Russellc

In case that last post confused, I take fired brass and put it in the F. A. Steel pin tumbler with soap (Armor all W&W) and no pins one hour, just to get crud off. Dry, decap and then the full 3 hr. Drill with pins....more W&W and a little Lemishine, but I digress...

Russellc

If you add the bullet feeder, understand that there are parts for different length bullets, and it is essential that you have a match.

Congrats!

While waiting for the collator, lube up the press (don't forget to lube the wiper of the Pro Auto Disk and center hex action rod) and adjust timing so the press cycles silky smooth and indexes properly.

Then try processing one brass at a time until you are comfortable with the progressive sequence.

Even after collator arrives, I would operate in progressive mode and manually feed the cases until you are comfortable with operation with all the stations full.

When you are operating comfortably in progressive mode and finished rounds' dimensions all within specs, then you can use the case collator and really crank up the volume.

Keep us posted and we'll help you get through any snag you may run into.

I think you will find Pro 1000 a pleasant surprise.

1KPerDay said:

Has anyone here done the round bearing insert mentioned here?

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No but the video has several good tips. A cover over the primer attachment (even a simple one made from paper) will prevent leaked powder granules from Pro Auto Disk from falling inside the chute which is the main reason for primers not feeding reliably - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...lutions-no-bashing.507454/page-3#post-7878007

1KPerDay said:

Also has anyone used a bench plate with a hole drilled in it to let primers through?

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NotAnExpert has some good tips but I find some of his mods somewhat complex/fiddly that add complexity.
If by ball you mean replacing the steel index ball/spring to stop the shell plate from snapping/spilling powder I use a 3/8" nylon ball/sphere bought a local hardware store.
Also available on line but sold in 100 piece lots:
https://www.amazon.com/Polypropylene-Sphere-Standard-Tolerance-Diameter/dp/B00CPRE9SU/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1500869416&sr=8-7&keywords=3/8+inch+plastic+ball

https://www.amazon.com/Inch-Delrin-...869650&sr=8-37&keywords=3/8+inch+plastic+ball

Rather than putting a hole in my bench for the primers, I mounted the pro1000 on risers(coupling nuts) and put a catch container under it:

1KPerDay said:

Also has anyone used a bench plate with a hole drilled in it to let primers through?

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Many do. I used a cheap funnel from the dollar store to capture primers and collect in a tube like the LCT - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...lutions-no-bashing.507454/page-2#post-7561860

Lee reinforced the base ribs on the Pro 1000 on the newer presses. You want to make a cover for the spent primer slot so 99.9% of the primers go into the hole with the circle - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...lutions-no-bashing.507454/page-3#post-7884861



I eyeballed the ribs and cut the funnel to fit inside the base.





Now all the spent primers are neatly collected in a plastic water bottle to be recycled.

If you're used to the LCT, then you should have no problem getting used to the Pro 1000.
Tall cases can be a bit sticky, but 9mm is smooth. Also, you can visually check the powder level in 9mm cases before seating the bullet.

Check out Titan Reloading. They are located near the Lee HQ and make some inexpensive accessories for the Lee 1000, including a primer catcher.

AR-Bossman said:

Does spending ~$200-$250 more for a much superior machine like the LnL AP look that far off the budget? Not like I'm getting a $20k family car but would sure love a $100k Corvette.
Many of us have multiple hobbies. And one thing I've learned is that "entry" level products can create as much of a headache as the learning process itself. In fact it can make you quit a hobby.
If you load as much as you say you do, esp long runs of one caliber.. don't scrimp on the equipment. You are making life harder than it needs to be.

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I can tell you that I think my LNL AP is crap, especially if you change calibers often. Priming system sucks, I have switched back to a turret press and Im going to setup my LNL for 9MM and leave it there as I spend so much time tweaking and tuning im not saving any time

RussellC said:

Thanks, .223 and 300 BO is all I load for rifle wise right now.

Also stumbled on the Loadmaster as well, 5 stations but more expensive. 3 stations seems a little short...how do you all handle the FCD?

Russellc

Click to expand...

RussellC said:

I read one review which said, one hole for deprime/size, one for flare/powder charge, one for seat/crimp....different die that seats AND crimps? I like those to be separate stages...

Russellc

Click to expand...

No crimp for rifle rounds, especially your precision bolt action rifle rounds. Saves you a step, and will improve your groups.