Just ordered a 9mm Lee Pro 1000... what am I in for?

RussellC said:

Thanks, .223 and 300 BO is all I load for rifle wise right now.

Also stumbled on the Loadmaster as well, 5 stations but more expensive. 3 stations seems a little short...how do you all handle the FCD?

Russellc

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The loadmaster press priming design uses it's own station because it's done on the up stroke in station 2, so it only has 4 stations (1,3,4,5) for dies...not 5.
Here's a vid of setup of a loadmaster for 45acp, showing priming at about 5min:

The Pro 1000 primes on the down stroke in station 2, then the case is flared and powder dropped on the up stroke of station 2.
just sayin'

Varminterror said:

No crimp for rifle rounds, especially your precision bolt action rifle rounds. Saves you a step, and will improve your groups.

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Yup, I should have stated I meant for pistol rounds, where I put just enough to remove the bell.

Russellc

bds said:

Congrats!

While waiting for the collator, lube up the press (don't forget to lube the wiper of the Pro Auto Disk and center hex action rod) and adjust timing so the press cycles silky smooth and indexes properly.

Then try processing one brass at a time until you are comfortable with the progressive sequence.

Even after collator arrives, I would operate in progressive mode and manually feed the cases until you are comfortable with operation with all the stations full.

When you are operating comfortably in progressive mode and finished rounds' dimensions all within specs, then you can use the case collator and really crank up the volume.

Keep us posted and we'll help you get through any snag you may run into.

I think you will find Pro 1000 a pleasant surprise.

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I assume the newer Lee Auto drum will also work on this contraption? For me it is a lot more consistent than the Pro Powder Disc...

Russellc

Tilos said:

The loadmaster press priming design uses it's own station because it's done on the up stroke in station 2, so it only has 4 stations (1,3,4,5) for dies...not 5.
Here's a vid of setup of a loadmaster for 45acp, showing priming at about 5min:

The Pro 1000 primes on the down stroke in station 2, then the case is flared and powder dropped on the up stroke of station 2.
just sayin'

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Oh, the video shows what looks like 5 stations?

Russellc

RussellC said:

Oh, the video shows what looks like 5 stations?

Russellc

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Why yes it does, but there's NO DIE in station 2
There's no die in station 2 because it primes on the up stroke...leaving only stations 1,3,4,5 with dies...so only 4 usable stations.
Although some Loadmaster users put a die in station 2 to help center-up the case for priming.
Done with this, thanks for reading my post,

RussellC said:

I assume the newer Lee Auto drum will also work on this contraption? For me it is a lot more consistent than the Pro Powder Disc...

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I considered trying the Auto Drum but with most small ball/flake powders I use like Bullseye/Titegroup/W231/HP-38/BE-86/WSF/CFE Pistol/AutoComp, Pro Auto Disk will drop with less than .1 gr variance.

With this $1 modification, PAD will consistently drop W231/HP-38 down to 2.0 gr and Bullseye down to 1.5 gr and not many powder measures can do that - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/working-diy-micro-auto-disk.741988/



Even with large flake powder like Promo, PAD will drop mostly with .2 gr variance to produce 1" 10 shot groups at 25 yards.



With Alliant's new Sport Pistol, Pro Auto Disk drops with less than .05 gr variance as 10 drops from .30 hole averaged 2.90 to 2.94 gr with most drops at 2.92 to 2.94 gr! I think this was due to smaller than W231/HP-38 granule size with more consistent diameters because Sport Pistol is cut extruded powder like N320 and Vectan Ba 9/9.5/AS - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/new-alliant-sport-pistol.816514/page-5#post-10598431

RussellC said:

I assume the newer Lee Auto drum will also work on this contraption? For me it is a lot more consistent than the Pro Powder Disc...

Russellc

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Yep, I converted all of mine. I like the ability to just drop in a pre-set drum that has my go-to load. Makes caliber (or powder) changes even easier.

maxxhavoc said:

Yep, I converted all of mine. I like the ability to just drop in a pre-set drum that has my go-to load. Makes caliber (or powder) changes even easier.

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Agreed. Dont get me wrong, the pro powder disc was a great measure for the money, but the drum takes it a step further in the areas of consistency and ease of adjustment.

Russellc

bds said:

I considered trying the Auto Drum but with most small ball/flake powders I use like Bullseye/Titegroup/W231/HP-38/BE-86/WSF/CFE Pistol/AutoComp, Pro Auto Disk will drop with less than .1 gr variance.

With this $1 modification, PAD will consistently drop W231/HP-38 down to 2.0 gr and Bullseye down to 1.5 gr and not many powder measures can do that - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/working-diy-micro-auto-disk.741988/

Even with large flake powder like Promo, PAD will drop mostly with .2 gr variance to produce 1" 10 shot groups at 25 yards.

With Alliant's new Sport Pistol, Pro Auto Disk drops with less than .05 gr variance as 10 drops from .30 hole averaged 2.90 to 2.94 gr with most drops at 2.92 to 2.94 gr! I think this was due to smaller than W231/HP-38 granule size with more consistent diameters because Sport Pistol is cut extruded powder like N320 and Vectan Ba 9/9.5/AS - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/new-alliant-sport-pistol.816514/page-5#post-10598431

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Yes, I copied thst thread when I first saw it. It also (your mod) fills the hole left by the dropping of their micro adjustible piece. I still have two of the adjustable units and your printoff on the reloading bench! Just never went forward after I got the drum unit.

Russellc

My primer feed tube was 2 pieces ( still made that way?)
Primers kept jamming up until I cemented them together
It was a good machine but not fast enuf when we got an UZI

The loadmaster press priming design uses it's own station because it's done on the up stroke in station 2, so it only has 4 stations (1,3,4,5) for dies...not 5.

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Because the Loadmaster shell plate for 9mm is the same one they use for 40 S&W, the 9mm cases were not centered well enough to prime correctly 100%. I put an extra powder die I had in #2 and solved the problem.

do I have to use the chain to return the auto disc? I havefaith in my spring mounted one on my LCT and I know what charges it throws... any reason why I just couldn't use it?

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The chain is a safety device, like seat belts you don't have to use it.

You throw a powder charge and measure cannot reset until you lower the ram down enough that you index the press. This makes it quite hard to throw a double charge.

If you replace it with a spring, you could throw a charge and back the handle up slightly, then down again and throw another. Of coarse you wouldn't do this on purpose but if no one ever did it on accident the chain wouldn't exist nor would any of the other measures with failsafe devices.

jmorris said:

The chain is a safety device, like seat belts you don't have to use it.

You throw a powder charge and measure cannot reset until you lower the ram down enough that you index the press. This makes it quite hard to throw a double charge.

If you replace it with a spring, you could throw a charge and back the handle up slightly, then down again and throw another. Of coarse you wouldn't do this on purpose but if no one ever did it on accident the chain wouldn't exist nor would any of the other measures with failsafe devices.

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That's it exactly. The chain does the exact thing as the spring. The difference is that it only does it if you lower the ram all the way. On the turret, not really an issue. With 3 stations going on at the same time, it gets more complicated.

The chain takes a little effort to get adjusted properly, the spring just works.

Using the chain, it is almost impossible to get a double charge. If you make a mistake, you get a squib.
Using the spring, if you make a mistake, you can end up with a shattered gun and mangled hand.

If you never make a mistake, or if you verify every charge (simple visual check should be fine except for deep cases like 38/357) both work the same.

My old pro 1000 came with a spring only. I threw a double charge, and happened to notice it. This was before I visually inspected each charge. I ended up playing it safe and breaking down about 300 rounds I had done that session with a kinetic puller just to be sure. There was one more that looked like a double. I paid for the update kit and have used the chain and verified charges since then.

On the same note, keep the powder hopper full. It can run dry quickly. I got into the habit of filling it every time I load primers for pistol rounds.

... or if you verify every charge (simple visual check should be fine except for deep cases like 38/357)...

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I really enjoy powder check dies but when all stations are full a light and mirror help seeing down in there.

My first press was a Pro 1000. At the time, I had just started a new job making nearly nothing and my wife was laid off. I literally cracked open my piggy bank to buy it. With some very minor modifications, I found it to run very well and exceeded all of my expectations.

A couple of years later, I started running my brass through it twice. I sized and deprimed my already clean brass on the first round which allowed me to add a powder check die on the second pass. It worked great and, in spite of all the negative things I kept hearing about the Pro 1000, I reloaded many thousands of rounds. I don't recall ever even having to replace a single part on it during those years.

5 or six years later, our income had nearly quadrupled and I treated myself to a Dillon 650. Now, the Dillon is a superior machine in every way but I also spent close to 2k for the press and accessories. Even so, the Pro1000 still has a spot on my reloading bench. I use it to decap all of my brass before cleaning and it has been set up to load .380 only.

It is a great press at a great price and is a very good choice for someone who is just starting out or just wants to dip their toes in the water without taking out a second mortgage.

bds said:

You can resize in separate step then seat and crimp in separate stations. Like Walkalong, for my match loads, I resized brass in separate step which allowed me to inspect primer pockets to clean as necessary and hand prime for more consistent primer seating depth of .004" below flush.


ljnowell who shoots bullseye matches placed first in his league with rounds loaded on Pro 1000 - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/first-place-in-bullseye-league.780168/

When ljnowell got his Pro 1000, I did step-by-step PMs to do proper set up which are outlined in this thread - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/preventing-pro-1000-set-up-problems.761231/

Pro 1000 reloading session checklist with QC for reliable operation - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...lutions-no-bashing.507454/page-6#post-9614898

Best suggestions I can make for trouble-free Pro 1000 set up and operation are:

- Lube all metal-to-metal contact points

- Put a drop of oil on your finger tip and lube the center hex rod (action rod) and cycle the ram until shellplate indexes smoothly (and put additional lube during reloading session to maintain smooth indexing)

- Check index timing so shellplate clicks into station before shellplate carrier reaches the press base

- Use CCI/Winchester/Magtech SP primers for most reliable primer feed operation. Fiocchi/PMC/Tula/Wolf SP primers have slightly larger diameter primer cups and will cause more primer feed problems.

- Make a cover for top of primer attachment so powder granules do not fall in (#1 culprit of primer feed issue) - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...lutions-no-bashing.507454/page-3#post-7878007

Debri in the primer attachment chute will not allow primer to slide on top of seating rod and debri under the seating rod will prevent the rod from dropping completely flat with primer and tilted primer will drag/lock up on bottom of shellplate - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...lutions-no-bashing.507454/page-3#post-7877744

Preventing debri from falling into the primer attachment with a cover and allowing the seating rod to drop even with primer will allow primers to slide into station for reliable primer feed operation. So definitely use a cover.

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Not only has that press served me very well, I now own FOUR of them. I bought the other three from people who said "Lee sold me a junk press and they are garbage." When I brought them home, cleaned them and set them up properly every single one of them runs great. Heck, I even bought a used loadmaster and run it for my 45 ACP bullseye loads. I've made expert classification with that ammo!!

It's real easy when it comes to a pro1k, make a cover for the primer chute(I actually just cover them in clear packing tape now), keep the primer chute full, and don't beat on it trying to set a world record. They will just pump out the ammo. It's a very simple indexing and priming system, once you learn the ins and outs you can make tons of ammo reliably.

And thanks for the help in the beginning BDS, I've passed it along ten fold as I've gotten many people started on their pro1ks since.

Glad to have helped and congrats on the growing family of Pro 1000s.

ljnowell said:

make a cover for the primer chute (I actually just cover them in clear packing tape now)

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Now there's an elegant solution!

1KPerDay said:

Any thoughts on graphite vs oil lube?

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I use graphite/No 2 pencil lead powder to lube the Pro Auto Disk wiper surface (I smear wiper with lead powder on paper) but rest of Pro 1000 metal-to-metal contact points get lubed with whatever grade motor oil I have on hand. One drop of oil on finger tip to center hex "action" rod will lube the nylon gear for several hundred cycles.

Schwing said:

I treated myself to a Dillon 650 ... Pro1000 still has a spot on my reloading bench. I use it to decap all of my brass before cleaning and it has been set up to load .380 only.

It is a great press at a great price and is a very good choice for someone who is just starting out or just wants to dip their toes in the water without taking out a second mortgage.

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Even though I have Dillon 650 set up with case feeder, I have several Pro 1000s set up for dedicated calibers. It sure is convenient to just walk up to a press, add primers/powder/brass and start reloading.

I thought about setting up dedicated 650s for retirement but when Pro 1000s/PADs are dropping powder charges with .1 gr variance for most of my powders (.2 gr for Red Dot/Promo), seat primers below flush (yes, Pro 1000 can do .004"+ below flush with most brand primers), taper crimp with .001" variance and produce OAL variance mostly less than .005" (.003" with resized brass and RMR 115/124 gr FMJ), and resize further down on case base than other brand dies to not require push-through resizing/FCD use, it's hard to contemplate away from Pro 1000.

FYI, for those who already didn't know, all the test rounds I have used for various load developments and comparison tests posted the past several years (with exception of small numbers loaded on C-H 205 single stage press), have all been loaded on Pro 1000 presses using Lee carbide dies.

Wow, I'm late to this party! I meant to post sooner but got side-tracked looking at reloading .45 ACP...

bds and the rest of the company have far more useful and valuable contributions on the Pro-1000 than I will ever be able to match. All I can offer are a couple of tidbits I've picked up:

1) The primer feed is highly dependent on the weight of the stack of primers above the chute. Other than keeping it clean, I found putting a big visual mark for "Danger, Low!" on the chute helped tremendously. For me, that turns out to be 14 primers in the chute when loading with small primers. Any fewer and they stop making it onto the priming ram reliably. A small strip of orange paint warns me when I need to top off. It also helps give me a reference to make sure the primers are advancing down the chute.

2) I don't always employ this trick, but a proper size bolt, a couple of washers and a wing nut through the unused spindle hole on the left front corner of the machine help hold the tool head in place and reduce OAL variations noticeably. Unfortunately I don't know what measured size the components are supposed to be, I just kind of winged it with a bucket of loose odds and ends until I had something that worked. (bds might have already covered this earlier, apologies if it's redundant.)

3) For me, using the chain to return the charge bar results in a smoother overall press function than the spring. When using the spring I sometimes felt there was a lot of excess jarring of the whole operation when the charge bar returned under the powder hopper. And as noted, the chain acts as a safety net to help ensure you won't get a double-charge if you don't fully cycle the handle.

I've loaded everything from bulk 9mm blasting ammo to 77gr .223 Highpower ammo on a Pro-1000 and have found the machine to be plenty capable of producing consistent results. As long as you take the time to keep it clean, adjust the index when you swap the shell plate and stop to investigate any operation that suddenly feels "off", you should be quite happy with your new press.

1KPerDay said:

1. How do you guys change discs? especially if you are using the spring return?

I understand with the chain return you don't have to shut off the powder or remove the hopper to change discs? How do you keep the powder in the disc from spilling everywhere?

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With the chain, I change the disk by:
- Turn the powder measure to OFF
- Drop several charges until no powder drops into case
- Push up PAD unit with empty case and continue lifting the PAD unit with hand which pushes the disk further forward and pull the disk out (towards you)
- Replace disk making sure the PAD actuator arm is in the bottom slot of disk

With the spring, do the same as chain but loosen the two brass nuts and lift the powder hopper to change the disk.

1KPerDay said:

How do you remove and replace a case at station 2?

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Move the shellplate carrier halfway up with the ram until auto index unlocks and rotate the shellplate with hand to remove the case.

1KPerDay said:

2. what do you use to catch completed rounds? With the mounting plate and base in the way I can't get anything to stay there to catch them.

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I am not using the mounting plate. I use a small bread pan (from the dollar store) to catch the finished rounds as the pan will hold several hundred rounds.

With the mounting plate, could you find a way to create a flat surface to put a container to catch the finished rounds?

1KPerDay said:

3. How do you prevent the detent/snap of the shell plate from spilling powder out at station 3? Mine is throwing powder everywhere even with a relatively light charge of W231.

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I place a bullet on case before the charged case reaches station 3 (bullet is going there anyways right?).

1KPerDay said:

4. Priming seems okay except I already had one sideways/crushed primer. The chute is full, the tray is full.

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If your shellplate index timing is off, it can cause flipped/sideways primers. Adjust the index timing so the shellplate clicks into station BEFORE shellplate carrier reaches the bottom.

Make sure you are using a cover over the primer attachment chute as even a few granules of powder can cause the primers to not slide smoothly and flip/turn as they slide into station 2.

1KPerDay said:

bds, can you post pics of the mods to your case collator for 9mm?

What's the deal with 9mm in the case collator? Is it too small? does it not orient them properly?

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You drill a hole in a penny so a spent 22LR case will fit. The holes in the collator work well with larger 40S&W/45ACP cases but with smaller 9mm case, you will get occasional flipped case.

I can take a picture of the mod but here's a link to one (pic shows dime but penny works well) - http://postimg.org/image/mpgt9o8iz/

1KPerDay said:

Oh, I also pulled the shell plate carrier off of the ram on my 2nd round... even though i'm using carbide dies and cases which have been sprayed with one shot. I looked up the solution for that and it seems to be working now. The hex screw was already pretty damn tight though, which makes me nervous.

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I have resized dry tumbled brass with untreated and treated media (with NuFinish polish) and do not have problem with shellplate carrier pulling off the ram.

If the shellplate carrier pulls off the ram, there isn't enough friction/tension on the ram:
- Make sure the top of ram and inside of shellplate carrier is clean without oil
- Loosen the hex bolt and make sure the shellplate carrier is FULLY SEATED on top of the ram (I even brace an empty plastic primer tray against the top of frame to make sure shellplate carrier is fully seated on the ram)
- Tighten the hex bolt (I use regular Allen wrench, not the ones with longer handle)
- If carrier pulls off ram (especially with once-fired NATO spec ammo fired in loose chambers), tighten the Allen bolt until it won't

To change disc with the chain, shut off hopper, put a large case like a 45 Colt under the powder die and cycle the powder disc manually until no powder drops. With spring, shut off hopper and drop powder into empty rounds as if you were loading until no powder drops.

To clear station 2, you need to raise the ram until the Shell plate spins freely and empty station 3 then 2. I usually take the opportunity to weigh the powder drop in the round out of 3. With the ram still raised, reinsert the Shell from 3, seat the bullet, and finish. I cannot stress this enough... If you are using the spring on the powder drop, always removed all cases from the press when you do anything out of sequence like unloading a station.

I don't use the mounting plate, just bolts. Any plastic tray catches rounds. Part a pic of your setup and we can suggest solutions.

9mm usually drops some powder on the way to station 3. If it gets bad (more than a flake or 3) you may just need to put a finger on it when it moves.

As far as bullet seating goes, my right hand can seat a case in station 1 while I am inspecting the charge and seating a bullet with my left. It does it automatically after awhile... No looking required.

You're in for something that has so many plastic parts that breakage will become commonplace. In the end you'll end up with a Dillon or a Hornady progressive. The Lee? Haven't laid eyes on it since I walked out the back door a threw it as hard as I could towards the woods!

whatnickname said:

You're in for something that has so many plastic parts that breakage will become commonplace.

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So let's find out the "High Road" way.

Since 1KPerDay is new to Pro 1000, let the seasoned Pro 1000 owners help 1KPerDay get the new press properly set up and operating smoothly. Along with many other Dillon 650 owners, I would do the same for any new owner of Dillon 650 as I have done for fellow THR member ljnowell with his new Pro 1000 - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/preventing-pro-1000-set-up-problems.761231/

BTW, I have several Pro 1000s set up for dedicated calibers and after over 25 years of use, have only had to replace the small nylon auto index gear from normal wear.

Let's keep this thread about successful use of Pro 1000 - I am sure that's what the OP would expect from us THR Pro 1000 owners.