Rust Bluing setup?

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Warriorsoul84

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I'm wanting to set up a tank and burner for boiling water for the rust bluing process. There has got to be a cheaper way then ordering a tank, tank stand, burners and hoses from Brownell's. I meant seriously, $275 for a tank stand?

Does anyone have any ideas on how to make a cheaper set up. I have never seen a bluing set up in person, and don't have much knowledge of propane burners. Does anyone know how to make your own tanks and how much it would cost to do so? I'm looking to try to keep cost for single tank set up for boiling water under $300.00. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Just a few ideas for rust bluing setup,
You can make the tanks, if you can solder, pretty cheaply. Try galvanized air conditioning flat duct work (local home improvement stores or ac supply warehouses) as raw material as the sides are already bent at 90 degrees. If you use the flat galvanized, you will need a form to bend the stuff. Cut, fold, and soft solder ends kind of like finishing wrapping a christmas present. I suspect but have not tried applying flexseal stuff to the inside of the tank would also work for rust bluing on the tanks. This type of tank can be made pretty much whatever length that you like. You can also obtain propane burner units from the gas grill section of Home Depot, Lowes, Ace, Walmart, or Amazon--the bar type is what you want and add several burner units together in series with tubing. You should get a separate valve to turn on the propane burner unit apart from your propane bottle. PVC pipes of sufficient size do well for steaming--one trick is to use a wallpaper steamer unit as a source of the steam.

For the tank stand--get someone who has an arc welder and make a stand out of angle iron. Doesn't have to be pretty, just functional. Wood could be used as a stand if you screen it from the heat and open flames with some sort of barrier.
 
The stand is easy. Buy some 1"x1"x 1/8" or 3/16" angle. Cut to length and weld it up into a stand. Should be able to get into one for $50-60 max.
 
I'm wanting to set up a tank and burner for boiling water for the rust bluing process. There has got to be a cheaper way then ordering a tank, tank stand, burners and hoses from Brownell's. I meant seriously, $275 for a tank stand?

Does anyone have any ideas on how to make a cheaper set up. I have never seen a bluing set up in person, and don't have much knowledge of propane burners. Does anyone know how to make your own tanks and how much it would cost to do so? I'm looking to try to keep cost for single tank set up for boiling water under $300.00. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I know this sounds crazy, but I used 4" PVC pipe (Home Depot had 5' lengths). Found a mounting adapter in the same plumbing section (Lowes or Home Depot) and lag bolted it to a scrap piece of 2X12 lumber. I poured boiling water into the PVC where parts were hanging. The first time I did not use PVC glue and had issues with water leaking out. It was usable but a complete PITA. I went back and got the same set up and also bought single stage PVC glue and it works like a champ.

Both set ups allowed me to "boil" the metal to black, but the second set up keeps all the water inside and does not leak down and expose the metal parts. Willing to go into more detail if you are interested. Have completed a Remington 870 Wingmaster and a Wichester Model 94 Trapper using this method.
 
I know this sounds crazy, but I used 4" PVC pipe (Home Depot had 5' lengths). Found a mounting adapter in the same plumbing section (Lowes or Home Depot) and lag bolted it to a scrap piece of 2X12 lumber. I poured boiling water into the PVC where parts were hanging. The first time I did not use PVC glue and had issues with water leaking out. It was usable but a complete PITA. I went back and got the same set up and also bought single stage PVC glue and it works like a champ.

Both set ups allowed me to "boil" the metal to black, but the second set up keeps all the water inside and does not leak down and expose the metal parts. Willing to go into more detail if you are interested. Have completed a Remington 870 Wingmaster and a Wichester Model 94 Trapper using this method.

Tell me more. I'm interested in your setup with pix. Steel stands and trays are heavy and can be a pita--having problems with hands and other parts due to joint deterioration.
 
You can get gas pipes from an old water heater (trick they taught us at Lassen College).
 
I wouldn't worry about a burner..This works beautifully.:D


THIS!!!!!

Get a short piece of rain gutter. All you need to do is boil water, which is only 212 degrees (or so, depending on altitude/barometric pressure/yada yada). I've done this on an electric range, as well as a gas range. They both work well.
 
Yeh Eagle 2, definitely would like photo's of your rust bluing set up.
Before I started these projects I read my eyes out and watched You Tube videos like a fiend. I also taught myself how to draw file and learned NOT to coat the finished parts in Boiled Linseed Oil. Cheap ATF works much better and does not dry with a scrum that needs to be cleaned off. Also was really concerned about using anything other than a stainless steel pot to boil in, not wanting any aluminum or galvanizing to transfer to my projects.
So all that said, I bought a 12 qt, stainless pot from Walmart, Pilkington's Classic Rust Solution and carding wheel brush from Brownell's and the PVC pipe, base and glue from Lowe's / Home Depot. I used a propane fish fryer stand for heating the water (2 gallons of distilled). The PVC is 39" with a small stainless bar to hold hanging parts. When water is at a rolling boil, I pour it into the tube (with parts already hanging) let it steep for 15 minutes, then remove. Mostly they dry them selves but a few nooks will hold water so I used a heat gun to insure all was dry. Carded using a battery hand drill.
I was completely amazed at the results. Let me know if you have any more questions. Also will try to upload before and after pics on my 2 projects.
 

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Before I started these projects I read my eyes out and watched You Tube videos like a fiend. I also taught myself how to draw file and learned NOT to coat the finished parts in Boiled Linseed Oil. Cheap ATF works much better and does not dry with a scrum that needs to be cleaned off. Also was really concerned about using anything other than a stainless steel pot to boil in, not wanting any aluminum or galvanizing to transfer to my projects.
So all that said, I bought a 12 qt, stainless pot from Walmart, Pilkington's Classic Rust Solution and carding wheel brush from Brownell's and the PVC pipe, base and glue from Lowe's / Home Depot. I used a propane fish fryer stand for heating the water (2 gallons of distilled). The PVC is 39" with a small stainless bar to hold hanging parts. When water is at a rolling boil, I pour it into the tube (with parts already hanging) let it steep for 15 minutes, then remove. Mostly they dry them selves but a few nooks will hold water so I used a heat gun to insure all was dry. Carded using a battery hand drill.
I was completely amazed at the results. Let me know if you have any more questions. Also will try to upload before and after pics on my 2 projects.

If if was possible to give you ten likes for this post, I would. Thanks for showing your pix and better yet explaining and showing your method. Muchly appreciated.
 
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