to re-size or NOT to re-size

Status
Not open for further replies.
B

bachekermooni

Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2010
Messages
123
Location
California
What should I do with brand new .223 Lapua brass for bolt rifle prior to loading?
1. Full-length re-size
2. Neck re-size
3. Use as is

Thanks.

Edit: The reason I ask is because I loaded 20. A few bullets were easy to seat, a few were hard to.
 
Last edited:
I simply remove any dents or out-of-roundness of the neck using a specifically dedicated neck expander. NOT the expander plug in a sizing die.
 
bachekermooni said:
Yes, but neck size of full-length?
Click to expand...

I'm always nervous answering that question. You should FL size, and set the shoulder a maximum of 0.002 back from your chamber's shoulder position. I call that FL sizing, but I'm worried that you might read, "screw the sizing die down to cam-over and crank away."

For bolt guns, I aim to set shoulders back 0.000-0.001. For gas guns (ARs and M1s) I aim for 0.002-0.003". You achieve all the concentricity benefits of FL sizing, and greatly reduce brass damage due to stretching.
 
Prior to my first use of any new-to-me brass I full length size them. I then have a definite "starting point". After that, some of my rifle ammo gets neck sized (my "good" bolt guns) and some are F/L sized (my lever guns and my semi-auto rifles).
 
When I tried with new brass, it didn't even touch the case, so I figured I was good to go.

Russellc
 
I also run them through the full length sizer that is already set up for the way I want the brass to end up. This will usually only make the neck tension the same for all brass and iron out any neck deformities. One time I had 50 303 BRIT Lapua brass that I just loaded as is and they all worked fine. It is more of an issue of knowing that they are all the same neck tension when I start. YMMV
 
Lapua brass can be uses as received, the only ones I know that are that well prepped as received. But all that I have received have had way too much neck tension, >0.004". So at a min you need to run a expander through them to make sure they are true (remove dents) and remove any lube/preservative that may be on the necks.

It never hurts to run them through your sizing die.
 
My sizer is set to size brass to fit my gun(s). Lapua brass, although sized at the factory for universal fit, is not sized to fit my gun specifically and the bullet I choose to use. I always size new brass to fit my gun and bullet and I check the length to be certain for trim, no matter the brand.
 
edwardware said:
For bolt guns, I aim to set shoulders back 0.000-0.001. For gas guns (ARs and M1s) I aim for 0.002-0.003". You achieve all the concentricity benefits of FL sizing, and greatly reduce brass damage due to stretching.
Click to expand...
Do you really have dies capable of moving the shoulder only one one-thousandth of an inch and then do it with multiple cases? I sure don't. The difference in pressure you exert on the press arm each time will account for more variation than that I'm sure.

Lapua cases are very high quality but even the best cases can take damage in shipping. I always full length size all cases the first time I used them, new or not.
 
Prime and load. Any dents in the neck will go away when the bullet is seated. It used to be common practice to resize before loading, but I've seen enough proof to be convinced it is not only a waste of time, but result in less accuracy. Quality factory loads are as accurate, if not more, than re-loads. They don't size the brass twice when they load them at the factory.
 
ArchAngelCD said:
Do you really have dies capable of moving the shoulder only one one-thousandth of an inch and then do it with multiple cases?
Click to expand...

Yes. And I'm sure, because I've done the variability study to measure shoulder location.

ArchAngelCD said:
The difference in pressure you exert on the press arm each time will account for more variation than that I'm sure.
Click to expand...

Yes and no. A good press (like a Rock Chucker) actually reverses ram direction just before the stop; that's why you get a cam-over effect. If you run the handle to the stop, pushing harder lowers the ram slightly.

Ram force, not handle force, does matter. It's driven by brass condition (firings since annealing, work hardening), lube, etc.

In short, if you're willing to sort cases (headstamp and batch), anneal, lube well, etc, you can hold +/-0.001 variation in sizing. It's not that hard to be consistent.
 
edwardware said:
A good press (like a Rock Chucker) actually reverses ram direction just before the stop; that's why you get a cam-over effect. If you run the handle to the stop, pushing harder lowers the ram slightly.
Click to expand...
I have and use a Rochchucker, a Forster Co-Ax and a Lee Classic Turret Press so I know how different presses work.
 
I didn't read all the posts. IMO of you are loading for one bolt action neck sizing is your best option. If you were reloading for different rifles full length resizing is the only option.
 
edwardware said:
In short, if you're willing to sort cases (headstamp and batch), anneal, lube well, etc, you can hold +/-0.001 variation in sizing. It's not that hard to be consistent.
Click to expand...
With all the same brass from the same lot fired the same amount I agree plus or minus .001 (.003 spread) is a reasonable goal, with mixed headstamp brass, especially range brass where we don't know if it is once fired, not so much. Many will be, but some won't. If you set the sizer right using a "headspace" gauge like a Wilson then the majority will pass the gauge though. The ones that are so resistant to sizing they are high in the gauge I scrap, although annealing would save those if you are short on brass.

But the OP has brand new quality brass, he can choose to load it as is, FL size in a die with an expander (My last choice), touch up the necks with a bushing style neck sizer (A good choice), use an expander style neck sizer, another poor choice, or use a FL bushing style sizer to size it.

We have folks here who size all new brass, and folks who use it as is. They are all happy with their choice.
 
I always full length resize new brass. Most of the time the sizing die will not touch the shoulder but it makes the necks all the same. Even with Lapua, Norma of RWS.
 
I round up the necks with an expander.

If the cases chamber I NEVER EVER FL SIZE them making them smaller does nothing good for you.
The only base line that counts is to size once fired cases from your chamber.
 
On that quality case it should be unnecessary to FL size. Also, depends on what kind of die you are using. Personally, I hate to steam boat an expander ball through a sized case. Not the same problem with a Lee collet sizer. I'm not about doing back flips on a new case. Once you fire the case most of the voodoo is gone. Glad to know after nearly forty years the RC is a "cam over" press.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

vaalpens
  • Locked
Rethink 357sig re-sizing methodology?
Replies
24
Views
3K
vaalpens
vaalpens
SSN Vet
  • Locked
die question....
Replies
5
Views
524
Idano
I
R
  • Locked
AR10 38 reloading
Replies
8
Views
555
Iron Sight
Iron Sight
S
  • Locked
Brass, Wilson gage or re-sizing die issue?
Replies
13
Views
750
1SOW
1
N
  • Locked
Die recommendations for bolt rifle, Please
Replies
6
Views
118K
gamestalker
G
Back
Top