Savage Model 110 E question

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cottonpicker

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I have a Savage Model 110 E 243 Win. bought new in the early sixties. From what I am reading there was a Series J and K for this model. Can anyone tell me what is the difference, and how can I tell which series I have. Any help would be appreciated.
 
On my 110F, also in 243, the bolt is marked 110F in a very light engraving on the underside. You won't be able to see it without taking the bolt out.

For practical purposes, I don't think it matters much. It seems like the more important differentiation is the "flat back vs round back receiver" and the pre and post accu-trigger. That's what matters for buying scope mounts/bases etc. I'm not sure, but I believe the newer Savage bolt guns are dramatically different from our guns.
 
the g and the k model
were a upgrade
The "dating" service is intended more for dating and documenting the older collectable guns that are no longer in production and were made prior to 1980.

"F" prefix with a serial number lower than F498821 = 1989 thru Nov. 1st, 1995
"F" prefix with a serial number higher than F498821 = Nov. 1st, 1995 through the end of 2002
"G" prefix started in 2003 with the introduction of the AccuTrigger
"H" prefix started in January of 2010
Click to expand...
 
more info
I bought a Savage 110E (308) brand new in 1978. The serial number is C46xxxx, so I think that confirms yours is probably mid 1970s. I believe that time period all the 110E stocks had a stamped checking on the hardwood stock, earlier models the stocks were smooth.
Click to expand...
 
Those photos remind me to say: if you still have the original scope, don't lose it. Those early 110s are all long action guns and they require long tube scopes to mount properly and still have some room to adjust your eye relief. Problem is, no one makes long tube scopes anymore. So when you put a new scope on the rifle, it sits in one place only and if that doesn't fit your cheek position with regard to eye relief, to bad, so sad, suck it up buttercup. Because the only resolution is a picatinny base, and that's going ti partly obscure the ejection/loading port and make it harder to load the rifle.
 
D.B. Cooper said:
Because the only resolution is a picatinny base, and that's going ti partly obscure the ejection/loading port and make it
Click to expand...
Not necessarily I put Leopold rifleman bases on my 111. Front base is a 2 position base so scope Cam be mounted further back and not block ejection port.
Before you buy scope check it's measurements eye piece to turret and turret to objective bell. More length is better.
 
I'm not sure what letter prefix it was that changed but older model 110 had open sights. The 110 Gxp models didn't have them. Purchased mine mid 90s.
 
stillquietvoice said:
Not necessarily I put Leopold rifleman bases on my 111. Front base is a 2 position base so scope Cam be mounted further back and not block ejection port.
Before you buy scope check it's measurements eye piece to turret and turret to objective bell. More length is better.
Click to expand...
111 is the operative word here. We're discussing the older 110s, which were all long actiong guns. The 111s are, I believe a short action gun.

FOr example, my gun is a 243 (308 case) but the bolt pulls open beyond the length of a 30-06.
 
D.B. Cooper said:
111 is the operative word here. We're discussing the older 110s, which were all long actiong guns. The 111s are, I
Click to expand...

The m 10 and m 11 are short action the 110 and 111 are long the 110 had wood stocks and 111 were synthetic.
My 243 was a 111 manufactured before savage made a short action.
 
Savage Model 110E .243 Win, This is a pic of the early sixties rifle. I'm thinking series J & K must have been later modifications but not sure. IMG_1425.JPG
 
The Model 11/111G I'm familiar with came with hardwood stocks... some nicer than others. Before they went to the center feed silliness, they had polymer open sights... functional, but not really ideal.
 
stillquietvoice said:
Before you buy scope check it's measurements eye piece to turret and turret to objective bell. More length is better.
Click to expand...

Yeah I've pretty much been down that road. I haven't found a single scope available for sale (new/retail) that will fit my rifle and still have any adjustment remaining. The bell is always jammed against the forward edge of the forward mount, and the rear edge of the read mount is right up against power adjustment. I have to crane my neck and head forward to get a clear sight picture. Super-duper pita. My only options, that I can see anyway, are picatinny or sell the gun. But I've already had multiple discussions here about it.
 
Put a bucaster 2 4-12 x 40 on my 111 with 2 position leup rifleman front base had enough clearance and was able to pull optic back far enough for ethnic to work. Not the greatest glass but clear enough to see 223 holes in paper at 200 yds. I bought both 3-9 x 40 and the 4-12 at the same time but returned the 3-9 because it didn't have enough length to mount.
The only other thing I can think of is extended rings.
 
All Savage 110-series bolt guns were labeled ‘110’ before the bankruptcy and the redesign that created the true short action, at which point the double digits became the short action and the triple digits denoted a long action.
 
Regarding posts 14/15, I had to get Weavers with the 1" extended front ring. That was on a short action. Once I got that figured out... :thumbup: Before that, I was only able to shoot that one because it had the open sights. If I were dealing with a long action, without the long-tube scope, I'd be up against the same problems y'all are describing.

Model 110/111 with a flat bridge looks to me like it needs a Lyman #57WJS. Add a hooded ramp front and a Monte Carlo stock... classic lines. :D
 
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