Another LGS and an interesting M10

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BlueHeelerFl

BlueHeelerFl

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Hit some gun stores today and found some interesting revolvers

I saw blued 3" Taurus 85 for $299. Never saw one in that length before. Seemed to be in good shape. The same store had a blued 4" Taurus 669 for $369. That one had a nice trigger and seemed to be in great condition.

Another store had a S&W Model 10 that had its original pinned barrel replaced with 2" barrel from a different S&W 38. It had a bit of a worn finish, but not as bad as some M10s that I've seen, but seemed to lock up tight (I only handled it and the other guns for a little bit since I wasn't looking to buy at that moment) and had a nice trigger . It was listed at $329.

Would there be any issues that could arise from the barrel swap? I like the idea of a 2" M10. This one could make a great car gun. Although the other guns caught me eye was well.
 
The store owner told me. Didn't want me to think it was original factory length. It looked good though, basically just like the above picture
 
I shoot this md 10-5 better than any other stub nose revolvers I own and I think its because of the better sights.
 

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A 2" Model 10 is fun to shoot. There are a lot of S&W revolvers on the used market that have had their barrels changed. If I remember right, back in the 70's the 2" Model 10's were highly sought after. A used standard 4" Model 10 could be picked pretty cheap. A good many had their barrels cut or replaced.
I picked up this Model 10-2 about two years ago for $350 from a friend. The new holster came with the gun.
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BlueHeelerFI

Would there be any issues that could arise from the barrel swap?
Click to expand...

Kind of depends on who did the barrel swap and did they get right when they did it!

For myself I would be sorely tempted by the 3" Taurus Model 85. Then again I have always been a fan of J frame size revolvers with 3" barrels. And it's at a decent price too!
 
BlueHeelerFl writes:

I saw blued 3" Taurus 85 for $299. Never saw one in that length before.
Click to expand...

Back to that for a second, I bought a stainless one, also with a three-inch barrel, a few years ago, for that. Made in 1995. Beautiful little gun, and a great shooter. I consider it a "poor man's SP-101."
 
GunnyUSMC said:
A 2" Model 10 is fun to shoot. There are a lot of S&W revolvers on the used market that have had their barrels changed. If I remember right, back in the 70's the 2" Model 10's were highly sought after. A used standard 4" Model 10 could be picked pretty cheap. A good many had their barrels cut or replaced.
I picked up this Model 10-2 about two years ago for $350 from a friend. The new holster came with the gun.
index.php
Click to expand...

The one I saw was very close to yours in wear. The wear on the barrel near the middle is almost identical
 
bannockburn said:
BlueHeelerFI



Kind of depends on who did the barrel swap and did they get right when they did it!

For myself I would be sorely tempted by the 3" Taurus Model 85. Then again I have always been a fan of J frame size revolvers with 3" barrels. And it's at a decent price too!
Click to expand...

That 3 inch 85 got my attention! I've always like 3" guns myself.

I forget the price but they also had a blued Taurus 605 357, but it was in the same neighborhood as the others.

Too many choices but too little cash.
 
I've never seen a 3" Model 85, but I do have a 3" Model 82, a six shot K-frame sized Taurus. Really nice gun. Made back in the early mid 70's I suppose, it has quickly become the revolver that graces my nightstand. Good feel for me with the Tyler's T-grip, nice trigger, perfect size IMHO.

Taurus82_zpsexrupaab.jpg

Taurus82_zpsexrupaab.jpg

{That missing screw has been replaced.)

I don't care too much for J-frame size revolvers myself, but the Taurus 85 I used to have was a really nice example of the critters. A 3" one might be really nice.
 
The 3" barrel is a big shooting improvement over a 2" in a J frame revolver , the Taurus 85 being basically a J frame. That said , I would take that 2" S&W model 10 over either one of those Taurii without hesitation - assuming that the barrel installation is sound. The Taurus prices you cited are not great ; I bought my clean Taurus 85 2" stainless a year back for $150 , and there were many to choose from on 'Broker at that time. Again . 3" is a plus , but I'd take a 2' at $150 before a 3" at $299 - the former being a better value.
As to the price of the re-barreled (?) 10 , I bought a 2" model 15-3 6 months back for $295 (also 'Broker) ; cosmetically fair/ mechanically very good. If the 10 were all original that price of $329 would be good ; re-barreled ... I'd have to have it in my hand to form an opinion. I would be tempted ...

Any time a person has an opportunity of acquiring a 2" model 10 is a time to pass up the Taurii and take a hard look at the Smith & Wesson.
 
Waveski said:
The 3" barrel is a big shooting improvement over a 2" in a J frame revolver , the Taurus 85 being basically a J frame. That said , I would take that 2" S&W model 10 over either one of those Taurii without hesitation - assuming that the barrel installation is sound. The Taurus prices you cited are not great ; I bought my clean Taurus 85 2" stainless a year back for $150 , and there were many to choose from on 'Broker at that time. Again . 3" is a plus , but I'd take a 2' at $150 before a 3" at $299 - the former being a better value.
As to the price of the re-barreled (?) 10 , I bought a 2" model 15-3 6 months back for $295 (also 'Broker) ; cosmetically fair/ mechanically very good. If the 10 were all original that price of $329 would be good ; re-barreled ... I'd have to have it in my hand to form an opinion. I would be tempted ...

Any time a person has an opportunity of acquiring a 2" model 10 is a time to pass up the Taurii and take a hard look at the Smith & Wesson.
Click to expand...

Outside of shooting it, is there anything I should look for in that model 10 to confirm the barrel installation is good?

I like all these guns and I keep changing my mind as to what I should pursue. I was originally looking for more of a pocket or easily carried car gun, but something slightly larger might work as well
 
BlueHeelerFI

Too many choices but too little cash.
Click to expand...

Sounds like the story of my gun buying experiences!

Don't know what to tell you on the Model 10 as I have never looked at a revolver that has had it's barrel replaced. Might be a bit of a gamble unless the gun shop owner gives you some sort of money back guarantee or store credit on it if it doesn't work out.
 
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You MIGHT find it doesn't shoot to point of aim, after the barrel swap, depending on the barrel.

I have a 10 that was re-barreled with a different type than what it shipped with originally, and it does not shoot to POA.
Denis
 
In the interest of exploring this , let me approach from this angle:

In what way could a barrel installation be botched , and how could that happen without it being visually obvious?
I would think that the pinned nature of the barrel would take a lot of the guess work out of it?
Is the hole in the barrel which receives the pin pre-drilled , in which case rotational alignment would be assured?
If the barrel was cross threaded or otherwise crooked , would that not be visually evident where the barrel base interfaces with the frame?

Pictures of the model 10 in question would be interesting.
 
CajunBass said:
I've never seen a 3" Model 85, but I do have a 3" Model 82, a six shot K-frame sized Taurus. Really nice gun. Made back in the early mid 70's I suppose, it has quickly become the revolver that graces my nightstand. Good feel for me with the Tyler's T-grip, nice trigger, perfect size IMHO.

View attachment 825022

View attachment 825023

{That missing screw has been replaced.)

I don't care too much for J-frame size revolvers myself, but the Taurus 85 I used to have was a really nice example of the critters. A 3" one might be really nice.
Click to expand...

That grip adapter really fits the guns character.

I had one with a 4" barrel that I got for $120 from a local pawn shop. It had no finish, so I got it powdercoated black. It was every bit as accurate as the 6" S&W Pre-10 that I replaced it with. The 82 was unfortunately loaned to a family member who sold it without permission :mad:

index.php

index.php
 
In this case, the gun's original forcing cone was cracked.
It had a pencil barrel when shipped from the factory.

At some point, it was re-barreled with a heavy barrel.
The difference in front sight elevations now causes it to shoot low and somewhat left.
(Please- don't nobody show me the pie, this is with several different loads off a bench rest. :) )

Re-barreling with a different type (heavy, as with mine, or shorter, etc.) CAN affect POA/POI.
May or may not, I'm just saying it CAN.
Denis
 
DPris said:
In this case, the gun's original forcing cone was cracked.
It had a pencil barrel when shipped from the factory.

At some point, it was re-barreled with a heavy barrel.
The difference in front sight elevations now causes it to shoot low and somewhat left.
(Please- don't nobody show me the pie, this is with several different loads off a bench rest. :) )

Re-barreling with a different type (heavy, as with mine, or shorter, etc.) CAN affect POA/POI.
May or may not, I'm just saying it CAN.
Denis
Click to expand...
Shave the front sight and get a Babbitt bar.
 
Thanks, but not quite that simple.
The front blades on the heavy barrels are already quite low.
Judging from the several-inches-low POI at 25 yards, lowering the already low blade down would leave it either extremely close to the top of the barrel or on it.
POI is seriously that low.

Would not be much of the blade left if shaved to bring POI up to POA.
And I'm aware of windage solutions. :)

I have plans for the gun, not looking for solutions, just addressing re-barreling.
Denis
 
DPris said:
Thanks, but not quite that simple.
The front blades on the heavy barrels are already quite low.
Judging from the several-inches-low POI at 25 yards, lowering the already low blade down would leave it either extremely close to the top of the barrel or on it.
POI is seriously that low.

Would not be much of the blade left if shaved to bring POI up to POA.
And I'm aware of windage solutions. :)

I have plans for the gun, not looking for solutions, just addressing re-barreling.
Denis
Click to expand...
I pretty much knew what your reply would be because, I am sure you know your way around S&W revolvers.
I had to use a Babbitt bar on my Parker Hale reworked Victory Model. At 7 yards ti was shooting almost 2” to the left.
I have seen some factory guns that shot very low. I saw a Smith Model 10 in a pawn shop that someone had used JB Weld to build up the rear sight. God was it ugly.
Look forward to seeing your topic on the gun.
 
DPris -
Understood , makes sense.
By extension , if there is to be a barrel swap it is best to use a replacement barrel of similar design.
 
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